CAD: programming custom stroke rhythms for a pedal-powered cam-timed sex machine

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > CAD: programming custom stroke rhythms for a pedal-powered cam-timed sex machine

Wonderllama: Mar 15, 2003; anyone wanna andreyfuck?

That being said, people that don't use the hole wizard are: everyone that I have to make drawings for, apparently.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2024 18:51

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ May 17, 2024 14:45

Wonderllama: Mar 15, 2003; anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

What's everyone's favorite SendCutSend kind of site but for machining odd one off parts?

This is the part in question:

It's a guide that will slide along an aluminum track. I've confirmed fit/dimensions with a 3D printed prototype but would like to get a few made in metal for durability etc.

Aluminum is fine, I guess 6061? Some places have 6061 and 6061 T6-I have no idea what the difference is, same for Type II anodizing vs Type III. Have I given enough info on the dwg for hole location and thread information or do I need more there? Other dimensions are all in the .step file for the model all those sites have you upload.

T6 is the temper of the AL 6061. It is the hardness, and it's pretty standard, so I'd go with that.

Type II vs Type III anodizing is, well basically everyone uses Type II. Type III is referred to as hard coat anodizing, and it's difficult to find someone that will even do that, in my experience.

Warbird posted:

It looks like a pretty long T nut, you might be able to just email one of the sellers of the smaller ones and see if they could do something for you.

I'd agree with this, if you're using some aluminum extrusion track, make sure someone isn't already making this part or something close to it. Also, depending on the application, 3D printed parts are cheap and easily replaceable, and will slide better in the track. We would press threaded bushings into printed parts, or have them impregnated into the printed part during printing.

Wonderllama fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Mar 4, 2024

# ¿ Mar 4, 2024 17:25

Wonderllama: Mar 15, 2003; anyone wanna andreyfuck?

bred posted:

I recommend a thru drill and thru tap on that part. Is 10/10 a 10mm deep pilot with 10mm depth of thread? I was taught some 3,5,7 blind thread/tap rule. I don't remember it all so I assume the last 7 threads don't exist in a blind hole and design around that.

Do you need the internal 45d profile? Square would be easier.

For that drawing, you should put all the outer dimensions. Overall length, width, height, T width, etc. Think if you were checking a part with a caliper and that drawing. Give dimensions so the checker can read 40 on the calipers and see 40 on the drawing for example.

For the Misumi service, I was evaluating that at work and one of the cons we had were it only supported metric tapping. Can it do imperial now?

And ya, see of you can buy that tnut material in lengths. Then cut, drill, and tap.

Ah yes, forgot about that. Thru holes are always cheaper than blind. You can also maybe use that thru hole with a longer screw/thumbscrew as a lock stop for the track.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2024 17:36

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > CAD: programming custom stroke rhythms for a pedal-powered cam-timed sex machine