|
... what? loving bullshit, tell the lazy rear end counter jockey at O'reillys to yank the loving standard ignition wire and cable catalog out and start loving looking. Edit: https://www.smpbuyersguide.com/standard/Wire-and-Cable-Illustrated-Parts-Guide/34/ Part number 10086B should be what you need assuming the boot end is going onto the plug. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Apr 29, 2021 |
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 02:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 15:25 |
|
|
I’m not sure that’s any better, but thank you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
Uh... gently caress lol. I think thats the bulk part number. Drop the B off and it gets a tad more affordable. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/blue-streak-wire/standard-ignition-blue-streak-wire-fmnx-spark-plug-boot/std6/10086?q=10086&pos=0 Its been a year and a half since I've had to remember how to read standard ignition part numbers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 03:10
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:NAPA: “We discontinued plug caps because nobody makes their own plug wires anymore.” I had to order distributor gear shims from Summit. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 03:54
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:NAPA: “We discontinued plug caps because nobody makes their own plug wires anymore.” The gently caress? 3 Napas within 30 miles show this and this as being in stock, available for same day pickup. I know your selection will be a lot more limited out there, but Napa very much carries them. Sounds more like that particular Napa dropped them. You found the lazy counter jockey at O'Reilly. The one who doesn't bother learning how to look anything up aside from make/model.  Napa usually has the crusty old geezers that know how to use a paper catalog.... and crimp their own spark plug wires... and walked uphill to/from school in the snow barefoot.Western is owned by Advance, aren't they? So I'm not too surprised. Advance is great for saving 20% on poo poo you need right now, that pulls up in their online catalog (and shows in stock at a nearby store)... not great for much else. Anytime I've tried to use their counter jocks, they've been worse than Autozone. Going so far as to refuse to do a warranty swap because the part was from a different location (had the receipt, etc), on a $7 door switch. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Apr 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 05:29
|
|
|
Advance also owns Carquest, now. The NAPA around the corner seems to be staffed entirely by people under 30.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 18:04
|
|
|
Let’s go on an FJ40 detour this morning. Right about a year ago I decided to dive into getting GIR back on the road. Top priority was replacing the transfer case, but I wanted to start simpler than that rebuild. During the time it was sitting I had the back piled up with my college crap and spare parts. One item was a spare transmission, so I figured I’d take a look at what condition that’s in, as it’s easier to swap the transfer case and transmission as an assembled unit.  Hm. That output shaft looks toast. Crap. Disappointing, and my own gently caress-up, but it’s not the end of the world. Moving on. Except:  Lifting the transmission back off the bench I hosed up a tendon. Halfway down poo poo just started hurting. Went to Urgent Care and, 3 X-rays later, found out the bone wasn’t broken. That was a year ago and it’s still not right again  I can do small parts, though! How about finishing the carburetor rebuild? In Fairbanks I had to re-smog the carb, but now I could put it back together without all that crap. So let’s work on that and get the engine running!  Hm.  New Chinese clones are $200 and have a good reputation. Somebody actually paid me for the pile of parts that used to be my carb; I sent them that picture and they still offered money  Okay, so, new carb is in order. Let’s go drop some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders before I install a new carburetor and turn it over. Wonder what it would look like if I dropped my endoscope in there?  Oh no.  Nooooooooooo
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 19:41
|
|
|
That's an oh poo poo all around.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 20:04
|
|
|
Oh that sucks. Sorry dude.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:Uh... gently caress lol. I think thats the bulk part number. Drop the B off and it gets a tad more affordable. Ordered. Thank you! Came to $9.65 after shipping and taxes. It’s supposed to arrive on Wednesday; for only $41 more I could have it by Monday. I tried shopping around a little but Amazon is worthless: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 21:33
|
|
|
Now I have one not-going-to-run FJ40 and one FJ62 I bought for the axles that does run. Hm. Ideas are starting to form. A 3FE FJ40 wouldn’t be too bad at all. So, let’s work with that idea for now. As of this writing that idea is still the plan, though the timeline is a bit open. I had planned on getting GIR running during the summers and doing one bit of resto-modding at a time over the winter. That seems less likely now; it may be easier to tear the whole thing down and do a frame-off. But in the mean time, I have this neglected FJ62 that seems to run pretty well. I decided to sink some effort into it that snowballed a little; basically the only money to be spent on *this* FJ62 is for stuff that will transfer over to GIR or another FJ62 to be purchased at a later date. That’s still a good bit of work, though. First up, it needed the proper coil. Original on the left, new Toyota in the middle, temporary FJ40 coil on the right:  The new coil is super heavy; I had no idea liquid-cooled coils were a thing. The old one must have been dried out. Oil filter:  New Toyota on the left, old on the right. Supposedly that little filter has more filtration surface area than the big old ones. Air filter - it had a K&N that was giving off ‘hotdog down a hallway’ vibes:  Bought a new Toyota filter - you vs the guy she told you not to worry about :  The Toyota filter has over 3x the filtration area of the K&N (which I did check and was the ‘proper’ K&N for this application). K&N sucks. Was about to give it a test fire when I decided to check the vacuum lines.  That looks…not good.  Shouldn’t there be something connected there? While I was staring at that this little guy came around and spooked me:  
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 23:23
|
|
|
That's some poo poo luck. Is that massive rust on the walls, or concrete?  Gonna need a spool of 3mm or whatever vacuum line, I chased that poo poo for years on my old VWs. Go scorched earth and replace every. single. line. Cool bear, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 02:01
|
|
|
That post really was a loving journey.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 05:01
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:That's some poo poo luck. Is that massive rust on the walls, or concrete? I had over 4,000 college student dollars into that engine. I honestly can’t be mad at this point since it’s a sunk cost, but I do plan to pull it apart to see if I can tell what happened. My best guess is some -40* Fairbanks bullshit froze something important. All the other cylinders looked great, only #1 is trashed. But one is enough to junk the whole engine. I may try to salvage the camshaft, though. It should work in the 3FE and was pretty hot. But I’m also really tempted to just leave that engine as-is and not gently caress it up. As far as vacuum hoses are concerned, I used all genuine Toyota:  That part number is $2/each and they are the good stuff. I bought a bunch of them. I’d post more tonight but this internet outage thing is really putting a damper on stuff. Something to do with an undersea fiber line but they haven’t been any more forthcoming than that yet. Other than that, the good news is that post above pretty much covers the worst of it, at least as far as GIR is concerned. Which, now that I’m writing this, I realize will not be the most expensive engine failure in this thread by a factor of 3x. We may pull the tarp off that other poo poo show this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 05:36
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Wonder what it would look like if I dropped my endoscope in there? F (x2)
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 06:38
|
|
|
goddamn that's incredabad.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 14:08
|
|
|
ADHD ITT Waaaay back in the day trouser chili did a thread titled ‘ITT I am making a science!’ that was the first I’d ever heard of using electrolysis to remove rust and it seemed like rocket surgery at the time. I’ve since done a lot more digging into it since I really don’t want to have to sandblast every freaking part of GIR. For starters, I don’t have an air compressor or blasting cabinet. In an effort to avoid buying more large and expensive tools that my CFO will have to sign off on, I decided to set up an e-tank as an experiment/small parts cleaner. If successful it would be a great prototype for something bigger. The basic premise is simple - basically you run a low voltage DC current through the item you want to de-rust, an electrolyte solution (current-carrying liquid), and an anode. The process magically converts the rust back into iron and moves said rust over to the anode. The science is pretty technical but the application is actually stupid easy. Some caveats: Don’t let copper touch the electrolyte solution or you’ll end up copper plating stuff. DO NOT USE STAINLESS FOR ANODES - lots of people use stainless because it requires less cleaning than regular steel, but the byproduct of that is Chromium 6. Unless you want Erin Brockovich knocking on your door, and/or a lot of cancer (not just a little cancer, Stan), just use regular steel and clean it. Okay, so, here’s what I came up with:  Ye olde orange bucket and some rebar. The rebar is held in place by loose zip ties; I can slide it in and out for cleaning or clearance. I used cheap metal clamps that I drilled holes in and ran a chunk of copper wire (torn from my wall like a proper tweaker) around to make that half of the circuit. I put a chunk of leftover ABS pipe up above with a bolt through to hang stuff, wrapped some wire around that, and it comes out far enough away from the positive wire that I don’t have to worry about short circuits. I wrap bailing wire around the bolt and hang my rusty junk off that to clean:  Mix up a solution of washing soda (available from Amazon because not a single store around me carries it) and water for your electrolyte. For power you want a non-automatic battery charger, or a fancy DC power supply if you’re some kind of rich person. This thing was $20, has automatic or manual operation, and includes a super annoying disco LED to show it’s working:  When all that’s together you set the tank outside (it gives off hydrogen gas while it’s working - not toxic but bad in enclosed spaces if you don’t like re-enacting the Hindenburg disaster) and let it do it’s thing:  I found that it worked down to around 20*F, but much lower and it would build ice. After a few days, here’s what my frying pan looked like:  After scrubbing with steel wool it came out  Alright, so, I’ve also heard it will eventually strip off paint too. That’s awesome because I’m lazy and most of the stuff I want to de-rust is at least partially painted. Let’s test it out on this tail light guard:  If this works I’m just building a tank big enough to drown an entire Toyota. After three weeks in the tank it looks like this:  Crap. Looks like I’ll still need a blaster, but this should work for cast iron stuff and fasteners. Glad I didn’t dive right in to the 55 gallon tank I was contemplating. The rebar also looks like hammered poo poo when you’re done:  You have to clean it every once in a while to keep things working properly. Bonus pic of Doctor Teeth, who *hates* being stuck out in the shop with me: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 19:20
|
|
|
Yesterday was community clean-up day; we picked a highway pullout because fuckheads are known to take advantage of those. Sure enough, this was our haul: Four car tires, two trailer tires, one bike tire, one catalytic converter (!), and one steel-framed couch. People loving suck. Hauling all that poo poo up the embankment suuuuucked. After we wore ourselves out with that we decided to make our first dump run of the year. I have never once seen a fullsize truck at the dump with as much as I can fit into a small pickup, and they get billed double what I do.  Carefully stacked full, top-to-bottom and front-to-back. The truck has an idle issue I need to figure out; it occasionally starts ramping up the idle to 2000 or 2500 rpm. It has a new O2 sensor so my thought is maybe IAC? It’s intermittent so I don’t think it’s a vacuum leak (famous last words). I dropped the endoscope into the motorcycle cylinder for giggles and was pleasantly surprised:  Cylinder walls are clean and it looks like the piston has a fairly even layer of carbon buildup. Much better than it could be, especially given that it’s lived outside in Alaska for most of the last 45 years. Unfortunately I have to pause the motorcycle work for now. Summer is here and I need to get a bunch of fishing reels rebuilt ASAP. I do want to brag, though, because today I scored all these reels for $30 thanks to my wife:  Also there’s now a Lexus in the way.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 03:32
|
|
|
Oh poo poo. Those are some oldies. Got more details about those reels? 
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 04:38
|
|
|
Look like old Penn reels. They're fun to take apart and get back together. They look surprisingly good. I've rebuilt many of them after getting spooled by bigger-than-target fishes.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 12:08
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:*If anyone knows of a nice 1988-1990 FJ62 anywhere in the USA, I’m looking This one has a lot of miles but looks pretty solid. Expensive though. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2882725135282201/ Also, Austin to Juneau is 63 hours, lol
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 16:03
|
|
|
Those reels are *mostly* Penn Long Beach and Delmar reels. Nothing particularly special; they were the low end models and get broken fairly easily wit Alaska fishing. They’re good reels for slower (non-salmon) fish that weigh under 50 pounds. One is a 3/0 senator. I will be finding a use for that. Possibly a salmon reel if it’s the high-speed variant, otherwise a solid bass jigging reel. One is an Ocean City 523. They’re great looking reels but parts availability is a problem. I may try to fix it up for display or use some parts to fix a co-worker’s grandfather’s reel that’s been in my ‘to do’ bin for two years looking for a parts donor. Three are Penn 350M reels and use a kind of levelwind I’ve never seen before. They’re neat. If they can be fixed I plan to set them up as identical (with different color handles) rod/reel setups and give to my sister’s three kids so they each have ‘their own’ reel. Not halibut grade but they can handle most stuff the kids have any chance of landing themselves. I’ll get more reel pictures after work. I’ll probably be spending the next few days tearing some down and putting together a parts order. Most of these will be parts reels; the Long Beach and Delmar reels may be the budget reels but the guts are often shared with the more expensive reels. At the very least I just scored $30 worth of screws (reels often come to me with a lot of broken/missing screws). I also have a bin of just handles because it’s nice to customize reels a little. Mustache Ride posted:This one has a lot of miles but looks pretty solid. Expensive though. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2882725135282201/ Texas doesn’t bother me. Nor do the miles or price. That’s a pretty good looking truck from 10 feet and I’m curious why it’s been listed for 19 weeks. The $6,000 worth of engine work combined with an inop oil pressure gauge concerns me. The seller also mentions some things that show they don’t know what they’re talking about (“AISIN differential locks”). I’m kind of looking for that ‘the right seller’ vehicle. Hard to describe but you know it when you see it.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 18:23
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Those reels are *mostly* Penn Long Beach and Delmar reels. Nothing particularly special; they were the low end models and get broken fairly easily wit Alaska fishing. They’re good reels for slower (non-salmon) fish that weigh under 50 pounds. The wobble levelwind is... better than nothing. It doesn't beat a spiral-drive LW when retrieving, that's for sure. They're nice for casting because they're harder to birdsnest. Senators are good bottom rigs, but not for halibut. Over here on the East Coast, a lot of people use them for cod/haddock.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 21:37
|
|
|
I’ve used Senators for halibut all my life. All the way up to >400lbs. Never had an issue with them aside from some stripping the main gear handle key due to using bike handles for cranks. My personal halibut rod is a 114H, bone stock. I’ve been debating putting a narrow spool on it since braided line takes up so little space. Lots of people also use 309s for halibut but they don’t last. I have one on the bench that I got from my dad; it’s had the side plates replaced a few times. I keep a couple as ‘loaner’ reels because they work well for occasional use as long as you go through them every couple trips. The Long Beach reels are just not up to it. I’ve seen a lot of those split out after just a couple small halibut.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 21:46
|
|
|
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933162&pagenumber=26&perpage=40 There is actually a fishing thread now that would also love to see kick rear end reel posts. I also just got done tearing down and cleaning a 10 year old spinning reel that has seen heavy saltwater use and it still looks tip top. Love this thing.  
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 01:55
|
|
|
Alright, reel hot girl poo poo. Got a late start tonight. Took the running boards off the Lexus and then only had time for one reel. But first, beauties:  Co-worker’s grandfather’s reel is on the right. It’s missing the levelwind parts and I’m trying to get it back 100%. I picked up the reel on the left yesterday but it’s a slightly narrower spool so those parts won’t work. Here’s the common ‘low end’ Penn failure, side plate cracks:  Note the total lack of a drag system - this would be a great ice fishing reel. It’s also surprisingly heavy. I’ll probably grab a new plate and finally get set up for ice fishing like I’ve been talking about for years. On to the reel for my niece, whose birthday is next week. First, make sure you have a clean and organized work space:  Not shown: tons of WD-40. It’s magic juice for reel work. Right after that picture I promptly made a mess of everything with WD-40. I hate stripping line off reels. I have a jig for when I’m saving the line but throwing it away is a PITA, especially after it’s welded itself together with sun and salt.  Tearing everything down, this is the main gear:  I’ve never seen that mode of failure before. Looks like the narrow spot (there’s normally a machined groove there) cracked through and a chunk is missing. Looks like I’ll have to order parts because of course this isn’t shared with any of my parts reels. I’ll put it back together, though, as it works without a load and I’ll order new drag washers to match - the existing ones appear to be 40+ years old. Installation is reverse of removal   About an hour of scrubbing and assembly later, we have a beautiful and fully functional busted-rear end reel: 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 07:46
|
|
|
Took another dump run today and used the chainsaw to cut up the big chunks. Touched asphalt with it so the chain went dull instantly. I’d almost rather buy new chains than sharpen them, but I’m trying to be a crafty consumer. I may as well do a garage post here rather than poo poo up the other thread. We have the house single-car, where the Leaf lives, but also a detached garage with MIL apartment. The building is officially 20x32 but the walls are a foot thick so it’s almost exactly 18x30 inside - still more than adequate for an idiot like me to break expensive things while warm and dry. I’ve got it laid out with the ‘bay’ closest to the door and a ‘workshop’ space closer to the back. This gives a fairly good idea of the layout:  The couch came from the apartment; it was ‘semi-furnished’ when we bought the house but now we just rent ‘unfurnished’. I’m writing this from the couch, it’s super nice to have a good seating area. That’s also the only piece of furniture Doc is allowed on and it weirds him out. We’re dog sitting this weekend and I have him out here with me; this is the first time I have EVER seen him fall asleep in the shop.  Guess he needed a break from the other dog! From the bay area, here’s the workshop:  That super handy power outlet/shin smasher is about 18’ from the overhead door. The cabinets above the TV have nuts-and-bolts type stuff. I have a few old consoles hooked to the TV (as well as a Roku); sometimes you need a game of Duck Hunt! The cabinet by the water heater has a dart board as well. All those cabinets were made from stuff we tore out of the kitchen. The table is just a couple sawhorses and a 4x6 sheet of 1” subfloor. It came with the house and I’ve thought about replacing it many times but it’s sturdy and handy to have a table you just do not care about. I also cannot emphasize how awesome it is having such a large flat workspace with rules about not accumulating crap. Only current work is allowed there. On the couch side, this is the overall layout:  Mostly basic storage but the bike also lives under the shelving. The racks are set up with an 18’ continuous shelf for lumber storage; anything kept outside here rots quickly. The rack closest to the couch is all dedicated Land Cruiser stuff; I’ve been organizing what I have and one of those shelves is entirely ‘get rid of it’ parts - anyone need a Fairey Overdrive? The other side is more of a ‘working’ side:  Red rack is all chemicals/chemical related. I keep all the non-Land Cruiser vehicle stuff on this side. There’s also a snack station and fridge on the end; those are important sometimes when you suddenly get hangry (or sober) in the middle of a project. Above the sink is my safety/PPE cabinet. This winter I need to tear out the ceiling and rewire for new lights (currently on top of the ‘cruiser rack). I’m not looking forward to hanging new drywall. Our next project after the Lexus is streetworthy again is to build a garbage can shed; the foundation platform is already in place along the driveway. A lot of the stored lumber is for that project. With the garbage cans out I’ll have room for an air compressor and *hopefully* a blasting cabinet. I have no idea what to shop for with either, though. Along similar lines I need a drill press - what should I look for?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 06:27
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:
Compressors are all about CFM (cubic feet per minute), and duty cycle. I'd figure out what tools you want to run with it (they usually list how many cfm they use), and use that to narrow your scope. Some manufacturers/stores have charts of which compressor can run what. Definitely look at putting in (at least) one moisture/ condensation trap to keep water through your tools to a minimum.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 20:30
|
|
|
Basically just inflating tires, blowing out filters/screens, painting, drywall texture (why would the walls be straight? That would make too much sense!), and the blasting cabinet. I think most 15 gallon compressors can do what I need while remaining portable. Who makes DeWalt compressors? I’ve heard Ingersoll makes some of the Huskys.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 21:43
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Basically just inflating tires, blowing out filters/screens, painting, drywall texture (why would the walls be straight? That would make too much sense!), and the blasting cabinet. I think most 15 gallon compressors can do what I need while remaining portable. The blasting cabinet and painting will be your two biggest draws, then. If you were thinking of doing anything on the classic Toyota (grinding/paint stripping/sanding) you'd want something that would run more air hungry tools. Last summer I cleaned and repainted the winch bumper on my Tacoma. I have a 60 gallon Porter Cable and felt I was waiting more than I was working. The sticker on the side recommends against automotive spray guns or sandblasters. I was using a 90* grinder with basically an industrial scotchbrite pad, and used spraycans (not an HVLP gun). Depending on how frequently you'd be using it for sandblasting or painting, you could probably get away with a smaller unit. I 'attached' mine with tie down straps to a cheap hand truck for easy portability.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
Shop looks great! I've got a couple of shelves like the black ones and want at least one more set, but I've been hesitant because 'where will I park the jacks and shop vac...' I don't know why just omitting the bottom shelf didn't occur to me but I think I might go that route
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 22:14
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
Captain McAllister posted:The blasting cabinet and painting will be your two biggest draws, then. If you were thinking of doing anything on the classic Toyota (grinding/paint stripping/sanding) you'd want something that would run more air hungry tools. Well, crap. I can do 240V, all the outlets are a matched set of 120/240, but I need a more compact unit if possible. I’ve got a mostly-full suite of electric tools already, though, AFAIK I’m only planning to use air for spraying purposes (paint/spackle/sand). monsterzero posted:I've got a couple of shelves like the black ones and want at least one more set, but I've been hesitant because 'where will I park the jacks and shop vac...' I don't know why just omitting the bottom shelf didn't occur to me but I think I might go that route The lowest I have any of the shelves is at least 14” clearance. Makes it easier to store heavy/bulky stuff as well as sweep underneath. Also remember that the racks will connect together; the 3-bay rack setup is only two kits. However, they do not interchange within brands - I have both Whelen and Husky and they don’t fit together despite being almost identical.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 01:49
|
|
|
I’m a little disappointed nobody has said a thing about the Lexus I’ve been mentioning and casually including in pictures. Just sayin’. To start, it’s not mine. The guy who just bought it lives on the side of a mountain downtown. You read that correctly. No driveway, no garage, just stairs to his house (I don’t think he’s protected ). He’s been driving an ‘89 FJ62 for decades and is moving along to something less rusty. He also connected me with his BIL and a certain ‘dead’ FJ62 last year. Anyways, it’s SPOTLESS underneath. SoCal levels of clean, which is unheard of here. It’s a 1997 LX450 with 200,000 miles and he got it for a song - the body is dinged up quite a bit and it needs new front seats after a bear pried out the sunroof to get in. But no rust and it runs well. First things first, it had to go up on jack stands. Shout-out to my new Torin Big Red 6 ton stands with locking pin. I’ve seen some reviews of the smaller stands that weren’t great but these seem to have solid welds and full engagement of both the pawl and pin. I’ve got a full set of four.  Today’s big project was tearing into the cooling system. The radiator cap was dead and the hoses were collapsing every time it was shut off. New hoses are going on tomorrow; today was removal/drain/‘clean up the gigantic floor mess cutting old hoses make’ day.  That nasty poo poo is concerning. I cleaned a lot of poo poo off that. It was concerning enough that I fed the endoscope in as far as it would go, but everything in both the engine and radiator looked clean. My guess is that it was sucking air because of the dead radiator cap. Also went at the O2 sensors today. Upstream was easy:  Downstream was not:  Just taking that picture was a PITA and we can’t figure out how to get the nuts off. They’re now cheese and a box wrench stripped them immediately. Ideas? The heat shield makes getting vice grips in there problematic. Lastly we started planning for a power steering pump replacement:  Down and to the left of the oil filter, you can see the back of the pump is weeping. It sounds BAD when running. A new (not rebuilt) Toyota pump is on order; the hoses are also weeping so he’ll be ordering those. To sum, this is not my project so is a convenient thread title loophole
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 03:09
|
|
|
Tbh, I didn't say anything because I was immediately on craigslist/ FB marketplace seeing how badly I was priced out of one.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 04:41
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:Tbh, I didn't say anything because I was immediately on craigslist/ FB marketplace seeing how badly I was priced out of one. He paid less than the people down the street have an unrestored Super Beetle listed for. Cheap enough that I’m tempted to buy one for giggles. I know someone here who DDs a non-rusty but dented FZJ80 they bought for $800 cash.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 05:40
|
|
|
Prices for 80s are all over the place here in the UK. I paid £5k for mine a few years ago, non-driving (the power steering box was leaking), and've seen them from £1k to £20k depending on the condition.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 12:01
|
|
|
Might drop the exhaust and hit those nuts with some heat. Also you'd have a bit more space and only need a gasket (hopefully) or copper rtv to reassemble. Assuming the exhaust is also not crazy rusty like the rest, or you don't have the same problem on the other end getting the nuts off. Strange it doesn't use an o2 sensor socket like every other one I've ever seen.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 12:40
|
|
|
Knock the heat shield off to start. But yeah, that's a PITA.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 14:39
|
|
|
I'd try oxyacetylene and the next size down 6 point socket hammered on. Might need to drop the whole exhaust for access though, yeah.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 16:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 15:25 |
|
|
For the Truly Desperate, there is always something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-THINKWORK-Stripped-Remover-Adapter/dp/B0869BR8MG No idea if these work worth a poo poo, as I've never used them (I'd be interested in hearing any anecdotes for / against if anyone's got 'em) but it seems like it may be close to the only option here if you want to save that heat shield at all. These combined with heat may do it?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2021 04:43
|
|