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Black88GTA posted:For the Truly Desperate, there is always something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-THINKWORK-Stripped-Remover-Adapter/dp/B0869BR8MG I don’t know about that brand, but that style of extractor works well. I’ve had an Irwin set for 20 years now.
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May 13, 2021 02:15
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This thread is a roller coaster of amazing, it's this weeks' Community Showcase
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May 13, 2021 11:33
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If you want loving stupid up and down prices of Toyota 80 series, take a gander at the covid tax on HDJ80's here in Australia at the moment... https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/toyota/landcruiser/hdj80r-series/suv-bodystyle/ Or the HDJ100's... https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/toyota/landcruiser/hdj100r-series/suv-bodystyle/?sort=Price Keep in mind, in 2006 a GXL HDJ100 landcruiser would cost you $72K drive away. Shits insane. Even FZJ80 prices are stupid, and they're the well beaten red headed step child of the landcruiser world nobody wants! https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/toyota/landcruiser/fzj80r-series/suv-bodystyle/?sort=Price
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May 13, 2021 12:34
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:This thread is a roller coaster of amazing, it's this weeks' Community Showcase Well, poo poo. Now I need to get on about posting the seized boat engine all the work I’ve been doing on the FJ62.
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May 13, 2021 18:14
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Catching up on this thread was like catching up on Binky ... Glad you're back, Advent 
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May 13, 2021 18:21
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4x6” incandescent headlights are bad. I think there may have been a few lightning bugs in there trying their best, but it wasn’t enough to see the road with. Since we’re looking for a nicer FJ62 I decided to upgrade the lights with ones that could carry over. And, since I’m a consumer whore (and how!), I bought headlights that cost twice as much as the entire vehicle.  JW Speaker 8800s, a full set of four. But they don’t just drop in. Ooh, no. That would be too easy! No, Toyota wants to keep everyone on their toes so the headlight harness is switched ground. Switched ground, as you may recall, is one of the things that makes British cars so reliable. With incandescent headlights switched ground or switched hot doesn’t really matter because the filament works either way. That is not the case with LEDs. In the case of high beams the fix is fairly simple- you can just plug them in with the plug upside down, or swap the harness wires if you’re motivated. Low beams are a lot more complicated because they have to stay on with low & high, plus the dash light makes things complicated. All told, this is what I put together:  The passenger low beam basically needs the hot/ground swapped plus a chassis ground added. The driver’s side also needed a relay and resistor added so that the high beam indicator would work. I’m impatient so I used the only two resistors I could find in town rather than one larger resistor. Face shot:  I was worried about the appearance but it’s not noticeable unless you’re looking. I think I’m happy enough with appearances that I’ll buy the 7” round for GIR, though I’ll probably buy the non-heated lights since GIR won’t be a winter vehicle often. But appearances don’t matter nearly as much as light.  Low beams only. I have never once had anyone flash their high beams at me. The cutoff works great. I adjusted the high beams a bit higher than normal to get some distance; I can really give the people who leave their highs on an eyeful. Because the full set of 4, with heaters running, uses only 80W total, that means a full relay setup is not needed. It also means they don’t tax the electrical system. I 100% recommend a good LED upgrade for everyone.
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May 13, 2021 19:26
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Well, looks like I have another priority project. Just got back from Costco and had the Leaf up on their lift. The lower ball joints and tie rod ends are shot. I can’t complain, they’ve lasted over 100,000 miles. Where’s the best place to order Nissan parts online? I looked at CourtesyParts - they only sell the whole LCA. That seems excessive. Ball joints shouldn’t be a $1,000 DIY job! Edit: I should mention my preference is OEM but I’m willing to compromise. We don’t have a dealer so I’m ordering either way. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 02:50
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Advent Horizon posted:Well, looks like I have another priority project. Just got back from Costco and had the Leaf up on their lift. The lower ball joints and tie rod ends are shot. I used nissanpartsdeal.com last year when I was fixing up a versa.
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May 14, 2021 03:18
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Two tie rod ends, two struts, two LCAs w/ball joints from: NissanPartsDeal:   Courtesy Parts:   A round trip ticket to Seattle, with two checked bags, is about $110. Goon meet, anyone? Edit: I should mention I’m not doing this to shame the suggestion. I’ve use the same company, as ToyotaPartsDeal, many times. I was just posting this to show that I’m effed no matter where I order from. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 07:06 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 04:01
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The LX450 owner has been coming by every day for a couple hours to putter; he’s retired so not in a hurry. He asked if I could take a look at the spark plugs when I got home, #1 was stuck and he just couldn’t figure out how to access #6. PB Blaster down #1 worked, the plug was wet all the way to the electrodes:  #6 took some work but I got it:   That plug is way down there! I know modern engines are often like that but I’m used to old junk. I sat down to do my Nissan order when there came a knock at the door. A neighbor had just come home with his new boat…  At least he owned it. He’s buying a new post and boxes; we’ll dig a new hole this weekend. We were thinking about moving it anyway, so having somebody else buy the materials isn’t something I’m going to complain about. And now, the moment you’ve all been waiting for - did I spring for expedited shipping or stick with standard?  Expedited - The entire order came to $1,299.68 including a few other items I need. Oh, and thanks again to everyone for that impact driver suggestion on the motorcycle. I ordered a few more and stocked up so I have easy birthday/gift exchange items. 
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May 14, 2021 06:27
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Oh hey, I used to go to Courtesy Nissan in person when I had my Altima - they were a ~20 minute drive away, and had the best parts prices in DFW. The Nissanclub forums also highly recommended them. If you just walked in, the prices were considerably higher. Depending which person was working the counter, they'd either match it if I asked, or make me walk back outside and place the order online.... then I'd walk back in 15 minutes later and get the parts.  They knew their stuff though.
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May 14, 2021 15:57
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Advent Horizon posted:needs new front seats after a bear pried out the sunroof to get in. Had no idea you had a thread, great stuff so far. Makes me glad and sad at the same time I didn't take a rotation at one of our customer sites in Alaska a few years ago.
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May 16, 2021 11:58
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What city? This state varies A LOT from location to location. I’ve got two more high-content posts to catch up (boat and FJ62), then I should be getting more into working on current stuff. I just tripped the fraud marker on my credit card from buying over $2k in parts and tools to do the Leaf suspension/brake refresh. In the mean time, I’m blowing this weekend on that god drat mailbox. The USPS is holding my 6-year-old niece’s birthday present hostage (their word) until I have a postal inspector come out and verify that the box meets their very specific and not applicable guidelines. They won’t even let me pick up the mail in person.
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May 16, 2021 16:37
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Advent Horizon posted:What city? This state varies A LOT from location to location. LOL. The postal service is such a weird institution. I put up a new one several years ago when they approved the bigger size. https://www.usps.com/packagemailbox/ Dimensions 13.63” wide x 7.75” tall on sides, 12" tall at center x 16.5” deep
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May 16, 2021 22:24
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Think it was Anchorage but it's been a while. Post office here is very lax which is nice when idiots crash into or otherwise destroy the mailbox once a year at least. lovely way to spend a weekend when you have other stuff you'd rather be working on. Out mailbox is still held up by a few stakes around the post.
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May 16, 2021 23:18
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One of my dad’s friends (a teacher) used to have his mailbox taken out frequently. He replaced it with a plate steel box affixed to the end of an I-beam that was sunk a couple of feet into the ground and concreted in place. He heard a car hit it a few weeks later. In the morning he couldn’t see a scratch, just a little paint. I’ve just looked on Street View and it still looks as solid as ever. Must be pushing 25 years now.
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May 17, 2021 11:40
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NoSpoon posted:One of my dad’s friends (a teacher) used to have his mailbox taken out frequently. He replaced it with a plate steel box affixed to the end of an I-beam that was sunk a couple of feet into the ground and concreted in place. Unfortunately, this is illegal most places. The post and mailbox need to snap off in the event of a collision. It's a dick move, to boot.
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May 17, 2021 19:51
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Good news! New mailbox is up! I got a call back from USPS saying no one should have used the word ‘hostage’ and my mail will be delivered today. I’ve got about 200 pounds of packages en route so that should be entertaining. Rock and bucket are a counterweight because the concrete was taking way longer to set than expected. Because I am a glutton for punishment, this afternoon I’m going to take a look at a 1982 Mercedes 300D with 300,000 miles that ‘runs then dies’, ‘has low compression’, and ‘spits oil from the valve cover gasket’. 
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May 17, 2021 20:36
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The Merc owner said another guy was going to look at it; I had a hunch and messaged a friend so we could carpool. I guessed correctly  The owner is going through a divorce and needs it gone. I got the impression he’s having a rough go of thing since he managed to down three beers while we were standing there and already seemed to be slurring a bit when I pulled up at 6pm. I’m apologizing right now for lack of decent vehicle photos, I totally forgot and was focused on the details. Anyways, there’s a big rust hole in the driver’s front fender:  That had me concerned; we looked around the car the the trunk was full of water:  I mean, at least it’s not rusted through, right? Looked like the trunk water was coming from the fuel door area:  But overall its in remarkably good shape. Those two plus a spot on the passenger front door were really the only rust on the whole car. The underside is, honestly, incredible:  (Side note, that Dodge Ram in the background is *immaculate* and looks better than showroom-new) As far as the mechanicals go, he said he’s only driven it a half mile in the three months he’s owned it (his soon-to-be-ex wife hated it and that may have had something to do with the split). It worked great and then stalled; he had bought it in non-running condition and had to bleed the injectors to get it going. Sounds like a fuel line is bad and/or the tank screen is plugged. It supposedly has low compression but he has no idea when the valves were last adjusted. Apparently he did the oil cap blow-by test and it passed that, so I suspect a lack of maintenance is the problem. Well, that and whatever the gently caress is going on here:  This is not a car that needs a racing hot air intake. It also left nowhere for the PCV to go so that just spits oil into a rag hanging off the valve cover. At this point I’m pretty interested, and he even tosses out “I’d let it go for $200, I just need it gone because I need the parking space and my truck broke down”. Awesome for me! “Oh, and it doesn’t have a title but I’ll do a bill of sale.”  Getting a title from a bill of sale is *possible* but expensive and time consuming. All-in the process takes three years and I’d have to pay 1.5 times the appraised value into a surety bond. Even the scrapyard won’t take a vehicle without a title. https://doa.alaska.gov/dmv/titles/surety.htm So it looks like my wife isn’t getting her ‘you can if you want to’ bluff called quite yet.
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May 19, 2021 07:45
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Advent Horizon posted:“Oh, and it doesn’t have a title but I’ll do a bill of sale.” Always fun when they throw this out last minute. Probably avoided a money pit and another vehicle taking up your garage for a year.
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May 19, 2021 11:06
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Yeah, asking about the title was one of my top mental notes and it didn’t come up until right as we were leaving. I had a dream last night that we found a fallout shelter in our yard that hadn’t been entered since 1987 and it was really nicely set up - including a stashed-away diesel Mercedes The car does have me starting up my CL searches for FJ62s again…There was one yesterday in Flagstaff for $10,300 that had a couple easy-to-fix rust spots (rear quarters, which are both easy to access and have replacement panels available). Another in Vancouver, WA (don’t say Portland) looks interesting but I don’t have any friends there. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/vancouver-1989-toyota-land-cruiser-gx/7320943462.html  I also got an update from my FIL about a vehicle that we’re pretty sure will end up in our garage eventually:  Anybody (that I haven’t told) want to take a guess?
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May 19, 2021 16:44
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I'm too busy being impressed by that engine stand rotisserie.
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May 19, 2021 20:43
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~1950 Chevy 3100 pickup.
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May 20, 2021 17:53
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 1951 Chevrolet 3100, originally an Alaska Road Commission truck from back in the Territory of Alaska days. As my FIL bought it:  As it was new (ish - different truck, different year):  The door logo had us stumped for a while; I contacted State Archives and even they didn’t know what it looked like. I spent a couple years trying to find a decent picture when I came across an engineering journal mention of an engineer who used to work for the ARC. My FIL tracked him down and he was gracious enough to send a better shot:  That logo is freaking awesome. Thanks to Bob Leitzell for those two pictures! If anyone feels like following my FIL’s progress, here’s his Flickr album: https://flickr.com/photos/133201947@N06 He’s not great about regular uploads but most of it ends up there eventually. He’s hoping to have a a rolling chassis by the time we visit next week - I suspect he wants help reinstalling the cab now that it has floors again. He’s got most of the body work done now so hopefully he’ll make rapid visual progress for a while.
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May 20, 2021 19:01
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Running board hangers were a dead giveaway.
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May 20, 2021 19:18
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Advent Horizon posted:
I think you only pay 10% of the bond as the fee. The bond itself is for the 150%. It's like insurance, if after 3 years nobody else claims the car then the bond expires and the bond company makes money off your fee, if someone else does claim it, the bond pays out. So it shouldn't be as expensive as you were thinking. At least that's how it was in CO, the one time I did it. If you like the car maybe confirm with a bond agency.
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May 20, 2021 19:24
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Ferremit posted:If you want loving stupid up and down prices of Toyota 80 series, take a gander at the covid tax on HDJ80's here in Australia at the moment... I'm never gonna get a 1HD-FTE and H151 to drop into my FJ45, am I? 
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May 20, 2021 19:39
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LloydDobler posted:I think you only pay 10% of the bond as the fee. The bond itself is for the 150%. It's like insurance, if after 3 years nobody else claims the car then the bond expires and the bond company makes money off your fee, if someone else does claim it, the bond pays out. Can you just give up the car if they claim it?
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May 20, 2021 20:35
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Or I just don’t get involved with a non-running car that has no title. It’s not going to Skookum Recycling without that title so the three realistic options the current owner has are: 1. Track down the title from the flake he bought it from. That guy had it registered (plate tag is still current) so he probably has it or can get it. Getting a title copy from the DMV isn’t complicated if you’re the registered owner; both of my Land Cruisers have needed duplicates. 2. Part out the car. Considering he lives in an apartment over a restaurant I don’t see this happening. 3. Leave it on the side of the road to be impounded. Police auctions come with a fresh title. My money is on #3. That’s what everyone else does. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 20, 2021 |
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May 20, 2021 20:43
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BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand. A hole in the water you throw $100 bills into. The two happiest days in a boat owner’s life are the day they buy it and the day they sell it. In 2017 my dad retired and picked up a consulting gig with his old company, doing basically the same work for more money and less time. Not long before that my sister had her first couple kids and Dad decided he wanted to spend the consulting money buying his dream boat to take the grandkids fishing - so he did. He picked up a 28’ North River aluminum cabin cruiser with twin Mercury 150s. He bought it for half price because it was ‘used’, but it had been in the water so little that the sounder hadn’t even been set up yet.  My FIL had been shopping for either a new outboard or a bigger boat. Now my dad had a boat available that came with maintenance records, service & use knowledge, and a running buddy. My in-laws bought that boat and now they run with my parents all the time (which makes for amusing moments when people don’t realize and mistake them).  My FIL didn’t want to deal with selling a boat that had a questionable engine so he did the next worst thing: gave it to us.  Terrible shot, I know but that it the best photo I have of the whole boat. Pretty sad. Anyways, we used it twice and then the truck blew the crank position sensor in the driveway as I was unhitching. That meant dragging the truck into the shop to work on it, which also gave a good opportunity to swap out the rusty old bumper for something a bit less sketchy for towing.  Got that sorted and took the boat out another few times, finding all the best bad spots to drop crab pots.  Doc got pretty used to the water but never goes potty on a boat - I feel bad for the landscaping that Docks and Harbors puts near the top of every boat ramp because it’s used all day, every day, as dog urinals. The last run we took the boat on was Labor Day weekend. We rented a State Parks cabin and had a great time.  In the morning we packed up and were motoring back to the harbor when it felt like we lost two cylinders. That engine always (in our ownership) felt rough when first applying power; once you got it warmed up it would smooth right out. Not that time. It was running but wouldn’t stay on step and it felt like things were coming apart - not good on the ocean in Alaska. I aimed for the beach but as we got close a 3rd cylinder came back and it got on step. Then the 4th. It started running great again. Weird, but okay - we stuck close to shore and made it all the way back home. We even managed to pull our crab pots and idle into the harbor, no more issues. Got home and flushed it, again no issues. Two weeks later I decided to winterize it and found the engine seized solid. Of all the places for a boat engine to seize, on the trailer in the driveway seems about as good as you could ever hope for. I pulled it into the shop (hence the above photo) and spent most of the winter trying to get it unstuck. No luck. I had to get it back out when some friends shot a pilot for the Travel Channel in the shop and paid me for use of the space:  Everyone in that picture was under an NDA and couldn’t post, or even take, photos of the shoot. Nobody thought to NDA me Since then the boat has been sitting in the driveway.  I’ve started talking with dealers about a new outboard but it looks like I’ll be ordering one in a crate and installing it myself because our local shops are either stupid, scammers, or only sell Tohatsu. Installing a new outboard will hopefully be one of this coming winter’s projects.
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May 20, 2021 21:56
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Got that O2 sensor out.
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May 21, 2021 06:15
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Fermented Tinal posted:I'm never gonna get a 1HD-FTE and H151 to drop into my FJ45, am I? I saw an FTE engine, Just the engine, no loom, no pedal, no box, no computers, go on sale the other day asking $20K.... I rebuilt my engine when i hurt it because a low km drop in replacement was $12-15K
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May 21, 2021 13:54
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I've been keeping my eyes out for a HDJ80 or HDJ100 to import a half-cut of but they were already too expensive for me before prices got silly.
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May 21, 2021 14:11
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My wife decided to use the hand truck for something and, uh…   I got a new tire and figured I would do this the easy way, by pressing the axle shaft out:  …That’s not how that works. gently caress me. The axle is a part of the dolly frame and there are bearings inside the wheels. All I succeeded in doing was destroying the good wheel. Dammit. What you actually have to do is pry this loving thing out a bit…  …so that you can get adjustable pliers on it like this:  Once you get that bastard off the whole thing comes apart easily. Installation is reverse of removal. This giant stack of Leaf parts came in:  A4 pad for scale. I won’t be able to tackle that project until we get back from visiting family next week. I also need to get the reels finished; I had a parts order come in and I need to do the replacement main gears + drags on the kids reels plus build up a Senator for the friend house sitting while we’re gone. He’s been needing a good halibut reel for a while. On the plus side, the Lexus is out of the shop temporarily:  With that out I can work on the bike again. It may or may not come back inside for the power steering pump before I tackle the Leaf; I have parts and he doesn’t. The supplier he ordered from, Absolute Wits’ End, is having medical issues 
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May 23, 2021 06:30
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I just bought a press too and I'm itching for another excuse to use it. I'll try to learn from your mistake and only use it on things that are supposed to be pressed.
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May 23, 2021 20:22
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Flew up to Anchorage for some family time and to go shrimping. Trip report time! N754 is on display in the Anchorage airport; when US Fish & Wildlife retired it there was no way the FAA would let civilians fly that thing so it was stuffed and mounted. For more on the only Garrett-powered Beaver, there’s a good story here: https://www.fws.gov/news/blog/index.cfm/2017/11/7/N754-A-Piece-of-FWS-and-Aviation-History We drove to Whittier with my Dad (mom stayed home) and in-laws; here’s the line-up waiting for our chance at a tunnel convoy:  FIL has a 1999.5 F-250 with a 6 speed. That truck has had a lot of mods and he has kept it immaculately maintained since new. It’s also fast as gently caress. If you throw enough boost at a 7.3 it will break, though. He’s got it toned back now so he won’t split the block again and only has to change the transmission once a year. My dad has a 6.oh God why did you buy a truck with that engine. I told him not to. They managed to keep from me, for two years, that it broke down on the way home from the dealership. He’s had the heads studded and EGR deleted but there’s still a piece of black tape on the dash to hide the CEL. Whittier tunnel on the inside:  It’s really weird driving that tunnel because it’s quite poorly lit, only one lane, you’re driving on train tracks, and it’s 3.5 miles long with a 25mph speed limit. A lot of room for error there. Whittier itself is weird, it’s known as the ‘town under one roof’ because everybody lives in the same building. That’s pretty much the whole town:  Also that picture show fantastic weather. The weather in Whittier is usually Shittier. Went out on the water and it was flat calm most of the time. Here are my in-laws going past while we were pulling a pot:  The fruits of our labor (dad with a prawn, me working the pot puller and failing to coil line quickly enough):  We woke up the next morning and found this weird flying fish in a spare pot:  All in all, we had a good trip. 289 prawns on our boat, 324 on the in-laws. 21 tails per pound. Then we came home and our dog has a staph infection on his butt. 
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Jun 11, 2021 21:41
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New Toyota (not rebuilt) power steering pump for the LX450 came in yesterday, so the owner showed up 5 minutes early today, exactly 4 seconds after I sat down for breakfast this morning. All the instructions online say you need a flange nut wrench to get the high pressure line off the power steering box. I ordered a whole set of them a month ago for this job, figuring I’ve had use for them before and could use them again. Ten minutes into this project and we realized there’s no loving way you’d ever be able to do this with a flange nut wrench.  As you can see, I ran out and bought some cheap crow foot wrenches. That worked beautifully and was the only parts/tool run we had to make today. Got the bastard of a pump out; all the guides show people taking them out from the bottom, nice and clean. 1 - gently caress you nothing to do with power steering is clean. 2 - they must all have lifted trucks because there was no loving way this pump was coming out from the bottom until we jacked it up by the frame several inches so the suspension could droop.  There’s the old POS. Note that it runs off the oil pump gear, which runs off a gear behind the crank pulley. Ugly nasty gear (this is important later):  The gear has to be reused, so I pulled it with a gear puller, cleaned it thoroughly, and pressed the new one on. Tightly. The guides we found say they can make noise if you don’t seat the new gear fully so they recommend 250 solid hits with a dead blow hammer. gently caress that, I have a press. This is also important later.  I should note that the nut holding that gear in place needs to be torqued to 54 ft-lbs so we made sure that was correct before continuing. After this there aren’t a lot of photos because poo poo got messy. Really messy. When we went to bleed the system we had a fountain of frothy ATF spraying everywhere. EVERYWHERE. Finally got poo poo bled and noticed there was a knock from the front of the engine. Did some exploration with a socket extension and determined the noise to be: THE POWER STEERING PUMP poo poo gently caress GODAMMIT Decided that the best option was to pull the pump back off and start the engine to see if the noise went away. I got under there with the ATF shower and pulled everything off enough to start the engine. The noise went away. That means it’s either the pump, gear, gear installation, or oil pump gear. gently caress. I’m 99% certain I got the gear pressed on better than the hammer people, so fairly sure that’s not it. The pump is new Toyota, so that’s probably not it. The two top options right now are one or both of the gears being bad. It stands to reason that the gears being bad could have destroyed the old pump. He’s going to drive it a bit to see if maybe the gear needs to seat a bit. If not…gently caress. The radiator and front of the engine would have to come off to do the oil pump gear.
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Jun 13, 2021 04:32
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Are you really supposed to press that thing on there like that? Does the shaft come out the other end? If not, you probably just put a big flat spot in every ball bearing inside that thing, or a bunch of divots in the races, depending on which is harder. The dead blow method might cause some brinnelling but not as bad as pressing across a bearing. Honestly the best method probably would have been to put the pump in the freezer (or ideally, liquid nitrogen or dry ice) and the gear in the oven at 170F on preheat, then hot-potato the gear to the freezer and slam dunk it on there before it can warm the shaft up. edit: don't use a regular hammer either, the point of using a dead blow is that it limits peak impact so it'll be harder to damage the bearing but still imparts enough force to bounce the gear on a little at a time. I learned not to do this to power steering pumps the hard way too, I tried to press a pulley onto a GM TC pump for my XJ and promptly punched the shaft straight through the cast iron back cover, ruining the brand new pump. Luckily a rebuild kit is cheap and I've since rebuilt others, so I will probably put a spare back cover on it along with some new bearings and use it eventually. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 10:46
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Hmm…I hate to say it but I think using the press is what did this in.
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Jun 13, 2021 17:36
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I was curious and likely found the same forum posts you did. It's odd that there is no depth set, as this is a set of matched gears. From looking at this FSM snidbit, it sounds like the bolt is meant to "pull" the pump onto the gear. INSTALL VANE PUMP GEAR (a) Install the woodruff key and gear. (b) Using soft jaws on a vise, clamp the gear in the vise. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the gear. (c) Torque the gear set nut. Torque: 74 N-m (750 kgf-cm, 54 ft-lbs) Either way, something is now very wrong.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:01
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