No More Projects*!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > No More Projects*!

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

STR posted:

crimp the terminal on (after the boot is on the wire).

this is important, lol

# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 07:33

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# ¿ May 12, 2024 11:26

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

Advent Horizon posted:

And a sample video (with sound removed because I have terrible taste in music):

https://i.imgur.com/NqgAdfj.gifv

quoting so i can see it

e: drat that actually looks really good for that size. guess its worth splashing out the hundred bucks or whatever

# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 07:20

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

Advent Horizon posted:

On the left is a new 4-speed knob for a 60 series Land Cruiser, with the shift pattern replaced by the 5 speed pattern. On the right is the knob Toyota used for my new transmission. The one on the left matches my transfer case knob, the one on the right *might* be more ergonomic.

So - which shift knob should I use?

left seems like the obvious answer to me, unless you have significant comfort concerns

looks way slicker, and much more at home in an older truck. plus it must add at least a couple horsepower, no?

# ¿ Jan 31, 2022 07:34

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

yeah i usually use the napa gold filters, which are made by wix. same part number just without the first number (eg 51515 vs 1515). disappointing that they're not trustworthy anymore. maybe i should get a filter cutter to see for myself, and maybe start using the motorcraft ones instead

# ¿ Feb 23, 2022 03:42

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Cheapest I've found is $42 at Jegs & Summit (or Jegs via Amazon.) Amazingly expensive for such a simple tool.

christ, i dont need one a hundred bucks much, which seems to be what many are going for :wtc:

# ¿ Feb 24, 2022 08:49

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

PBCrunch posted:

If you're going to cut up new filters, just use an angle grinder and assume the metal flakes aren't left over from manufacturing (not a particularly valid assumption for a cheapo filter, right?).

I wonder if one could modify a kitchen can opener somehow to crack open oil filters.

Or buy one of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-8-in-Junior-Tube-Cutter-80-511-111/304384093

Remove the bearings and the cutter from the housing and mount them to a piece of scrap steel (or maybe just oak or plywood) and cut open oil filters that way.

i would be cutting open used filters, personally.

i like the idea of welding tubing cutter bits to a cheap vise, or similar fixture. add another future project to the pile, lol

# ¿ Feb 25, 2022 07:34

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Same. I know AN breaks the "no non-metric wrenches" rule but holy gently caress they are so much nicer to work with. If you standardize on one line size you shouldn't need more than two or three wrenches, total.

i was gonna say that he might get lucky with a size that lines up pretty close between standard and metric, but that doesnt look likely. 1/4" ID has a 9/16" wrench size, which is interchangeable with 14mm, but 3/8 (much more likely for a fuel supply) uses 11/16" which is like 17.5mm. no luck

# ¿ Jul 19, 2022 04:45

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

PBCrunch posted:

What would be the logistics of pre-emptively adding a drain port to a fuel tank in situ? Could you drive until the engine is sputtering from lack of fuel, jack the body up on an incline to drive remaining fuel to one side, drill a hole away from the fuel (with a special drill bit?), and install some kind of self-sealing drain port?

on a steel tank? not only no, but lol no. the fuel vapor is explosive, and cutting/drilling might throw sparks or at least introduce heat where you dont want it

the classic solution is to fill the tank with water to displace all the gas fumes, but that assumes you can flip it downside up

better to just get a virgin tank to work on, then swap it

if its plastic, maybe you could do what you describe, but i still wouldn't trust something to seal where you can't get to the back of it

all more trouble than its worth i think

# ¿ Aug 4, 2022 05:35

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

i wonder if a strong magnet would pull the wire wheel wires out of the jacket. probably not, because of how well they seem to get stuck in everything, but maybe worth a shot

# ¿ Aug 8, 2022 08:38

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

my experience with fastenal has been largely negative. they have plenty of "normal" stuff, meaning like larger standard stuff, but metric is slim pickins, and anything at all specialty they won't have. for a while i called them fasten-most but at this point i think its just fasten-some.

# ¿ Sep 2, 2022 06:00

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# ¿ May 12, 2024 11:26

Raluek: Nov 3, 2006; WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I don't have much trouble finding metric fasteners in general, but the problem for automotive poo poo sometimes is that just because it's a metric thread doesn't mean every other dimension of the bolt is the same standard as found at a hardware store. I've never seen JIS-spec metric heads at a regular hardware store so even if the thread, strength, and length are all the same, now it's a larger head than the other copies of that same bolt on the same part.

Or you get arbitrary lengths where the factory bolt was M8x27mm but all you can find locally are 25mm and 30mm lengths, or the factory one is partially threaded and everything is full thread (or vice versa).

Or you're Honda and you use a really unusual thread pitch for your control arm bolts.

ACE has JIS hardware. not tons, but a few drawers

# ¿ Sep 7, 2022 04:54

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > No More Projects*!