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Get yourself a set of Milwaukee demo drivers. They'll take that screw out easily after a couple love taps.
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Apr 20, 2021 07:18
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I'd try oxyacetylene and the next size down 6 point socket hammered on. Might need to drop the whole exhaust for access though, yeah.
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May 10, 2021 16:33
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Are you really supposed to press that thing on there like that? Does the shaft come out the other end? If not, you probably just put a big flat spot in every ball bearing inside that thing, or a bunch of divots in the races, depending on which is harder. The dead blow method might cause some brinnelling but not as bad as pressing across a bearing. Honestly the best method probably would have been to put the pump in the freezer (or ideally, liquid nitrogen or dry ice) and the gear in the oven at 170F on preheat, then hot-potato the gear to the freezer and slam dunk it on there before it can warm the shaft up. edit: don't use a regular hammer either, the point of using a dead blow is that it limits peak impact so it'll be harder to damage the bearing but still imparts enough force to bounce the gear on a little at a time. I learned not to do this to power steering pumps the hard way too, I tried to press a pulley onto a GM TC pump for my XJ and promptly punched the shaft straight through the cast iron back cover, ruining the brand new pump. Luckily a rebuild kit is cheap and I've since rebuilt others, so I will probably put a spare back cover on it along with some new bearings and use it eventually. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 10:46
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Do you have to take it out? It looks like it's in the knuckle, can you unplug the other end and remove the entire knuckle and sensor as a unit to work on it, or is it such a bad design that you have to remove the sensor before removing the unit bearing assembly?
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Nov 1, 2021 06:16
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Good God. I never would have expected the cost of putting new seats in the Toyota to be higher than the cost of getting them out of the dog at the vet.
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Dec 22, 2021 03:02
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Put bolts in half a dozen turns, put a sacrificial socket on them (so the heads remain recognizable) and bash the gently caress out of them in a star pattern using a large chakra adjustment hammer. Eventually it will pop out, then you unscrew the bolts again.
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Jan 3, 2022 10:49
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That's pretty much what I meant there, yeah. Those backing plates look semi optional BTW. I haven't put one back on a car that wasn't integral to the parking brake or drum brake assembly since, uhh, 2009 I think? They go straight in the scrap pile generally.
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Jan 4, 2022 11:08
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Advent Horizon posted:Given their position between the knuckle and bearing I would at least leave a small portion of it to maintain the rotor-to-knuckle/caliper spacing. I’m trying to keep this car nice/stock, though. Maybe, but how thick are they? Most are like 16ga at most and can just be eliminated without further consideration. I guess I should have mentioned that, if they're thicker than that for some reason (Nissan...) It might actually affect things.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:12
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I've got a lot of cars with sliders that lasted till over 200k before I had to replace them and Mass salts the earth 6 months a year.
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Jan 25, 2022 00:02
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Tyvek housewrap tape will almost certainly stick to the tent if you spot dry it first. That poo poo will stick to anything.
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Feb 2, 2022 00:05
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Advent Horizon posted:Does condensation not stick to Tyvek? Yeah you're still screwed on that front, I just mean to patch the holes.
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Feb 2, 2022 05:27
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Lending a whole new meaning to the term "open differential" there
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Feb 20, 2022 06:06
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I try to keep them organized by precariously piling the bolts from each separate thing I remove in a different spot in the engine compartment. What kind of monster just puts them all in one pile?
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Mar 5, 2022 17:46
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That unknown plug is probably just a plug for the end of the spot where they gun drill the oil galley to all the bearings down the block. Pull it, clean threads, apply sealant of choice and reinstall... Or just ignore it which is what I would do. Free rust prevention. The big freeze plug on the other side is likely the cam bore end plug. I'd definitely leave that alone.
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Mar 8, 2022 08:55
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That really stinks. And it had to be the one size you can't substitute imperial, too.
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Mar 8, 2022 09:09
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Wow your FIL is definitely chaotic good, not chaotic neutral as I initially assumed
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Mar 11, 2022 09:07
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The burrs on the edges of those gear teeth and the ATF instead of gear lube are not an inspiring combo. It's weird that it has good measured clearances, I agree.
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Mar 16, 2022 16:09
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I'd be pretty pissed if I paid 700 dollars for a Bluetooth exhaust system too.
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Mar 27, 2022 06:40
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You could connect it to the unfiltered side of your air intake no problem though. That's probably where I'd put it, if that gets enough water in it to be an issue for a breather you are having a very bad day as it is and changing a few fluids is pretty low on the pain in the rear end list.
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Apr 2, 2022 18:02
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Should be fine. Depending on exhaust temp you'll want to either pipe solder, hard solder, or braze it. Plan on checking for soot buildup more often than you would on a regular exhaust as the extra thermal conductivity may make it build up worse. Edit: oh the hot air exhaust? It might restrict it more than you want...
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Apr 6, 2022 23:11
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All I can think is put a few usb outlets and a cig outlet there for charging stuff in the center console?
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Apr 15, 2022 01:28
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Can you break it in in Washington instead? I know it's not as convenient if things go wrong but it looks like it'll fit your schedule better, despite being more of a mad rush up front.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:25
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Honestly a loose driveshaft and a drum brake issue are pretty good things to have as break-in issues rather than something more difficult and expensive to source. Funny your trip took you right through there, some of my favorite pictures of my POS are from the i90 westbound exit onto Mullan Gulch Rd in St Regis just before Henderson. I had just run out of gas... Yet again.
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May 26, 2022 04:41
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Soldering to stainless is going to be hard, I think. I believe it's usually brazed using copper as filler but look into that before trying it. It looks like the leak is on the spring clamped return or vent line to me? Believe earls performance makes some m14x1.5 fittings but I'm not sure if they're available in flare, inverted flare, or braze-on. That's the ORB thread size the Jeep AW4 uses for the cooler line fittings which is the only reason I've heard of them, people were buying from earls years ago to get away from the factory quick connect adapters. Edit: yeah I'm having a hard time finding this, that's a very niche set of specs. You may need to settle for finding an m14x1.5 stainless flare adapter to something else and then turning the something else end to what you need using a lathe. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 07:39
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Ferremit posted:If you werent unhappy with the idea of a rear wheel carrier i'd just use this as an excuse to fit a 150L long rage fuel tank.... He specifically said he won't do this as it doesn't get driven enough to keep the fuel from getting old even with just the factory tank, though.
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Jul 19, 2022 15:36
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How stable is it? It looks like it will introduce the welder to the ground if you try and swap the tank without thinking about it mid project.
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Jul 25, 2022 14:32
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Tomarse posted:I just used the vehicle fuel pump to drain the last 2 tanks i had to take out. Not sure you really need a drain on anything with an electric pump. This is perfect when everything is going well, but fuel pumps nearly universally fail when you have just filled the tank. I've been lucky so far, but I know it won't last and I'm going to have to deal with 20 gallons of gas and a failed pump in the next tank I drop.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:51
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I mean, you might as well take a brass brush to it and see how hosed those teeth are. If it's not bad, run it, if it is, can you buy those parts new?
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Aug 11, 2022 05:27
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If you are going to drive it any significant amount or any real distance from home I would do literally anything to avoid using NLA parts with wear surfaces. Shafts that you just assemble a bunch of gears and bearings onto, sure. Shafts that appear to have gears forged and cut into them? No way. My transmission is a pretty uncommon one - only used 93 to 94 in 2500 and 3500 GM with manual - and I can still buy the input shaft brand new for $80. You could not convince me to use that transmission based on what you're telling me.
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Aug 11, 2022 05:57
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I'm cross that they thought of my idea, which was DoubleT2172s idea as well. Perhaps install a large cage and surreptitiously run your coolant through it as well, as our Lord and Savior Smokey Yunick would do until caught? Or if you don't think you can pull that off, put a second and maybe even third heater core in the heater box instead of the AC core and run them all in series?
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Aug 14, 2022 07:31
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That tire scoliosis puts the front tires on my Justy to shame. Both failed in a similar way within 2500 miles of buying it (one was on the way out when we left CO but we didn't realize this) but nowhere near as bad.
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Aug 19, 2022 07:59
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I'd argue that you're just simulating a rainstorm, not actually increasing the cooling capacity of the system as designed.
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Aug 24, 2022 20:40
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I'm pretty sure you... Don't. Unfortunately. You're going to gently caress the ground wire in the process anyways, since it appears to be riveted to a tab on the flange. If the hole can be enlarged to 10mm and has enough clearance to install this, you could use it. This is what I used on my MJ sender rebuild, it's actually an Aptiv (aka Delphi, aka Packard Electrical Division) and used as an OEM part on many GM fuel senders. https://www.racetronix.biz/p/connector-set-mp1502-4f-tps-bcwa/rcs-058 https://www.racetronix.biz/p/fs-bulkhead-connector-assembly-4-way/bca-4w https://www.racetronix.biz/p/connector-set-mp150-4f-itwh-vapor-side/rcs-061 This is 4 pin not 1 pin I know but you can get little block off buttplugs for the extra holes in the silicone sealing mat for the exterior connector or just cram some good rtv in there if you don't care how it looks. You can also run the ground for the sender in through it and connect it internally, away from salt and water.
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Aug 28, 2022 08:52
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That sucks. Yeah I think they hosed you on mispackaged hardware. Also, double gently caress them because their bins are continually a total shitshow, between the other asshead customers just shoving poo poo anywhere they want instead of back in the right bin, and the store not paying anyone to sort it back out. One time I spent 30 minutes digging through random misplaced poo poo trying to find one bolt in the Brooklyn store and literally nothing within 4 bins of the correct hole in that drawer was what I needed. Or even correct for where it was. I threw it all on the floor in a pile so at least they knew it wasn't in the right bin, turned around to find something else and looked back and an employee is just shoveling it all back into random bins in the drawer. gently caress Home Depot hardware drawers.
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Sep 1, 2022 00:23
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I didn't know that either. And yeah it's probably winding insulation related. I would open that thing up and flush it out, just make sure the flush is compatible with the compressor/insulation...
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Oct 31, 2022 23:59
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Stack weld on it, vise grips. Oh and DO NOT OFFER TO GET INVOLVED IN ANYTHING WORKING ON THE DRIVETRAIN OR ESPECIALLY THE loving CLUTCH ON THAT THING. The clutch hydraulics for those are legendarily hostile to repair.
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Nov 3, 2022 08:23
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gently caress USAA all my homies hate USAA
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Apr 8, 2024 16:16
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:01 |
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I just overbuild everything so much that I don't need to say "that's not going anywhere"*. * Factory parts need not apply
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Apr 18, 2024 03:38
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