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Wait they're metric on that thing? I thought they were still SAE on the TBI 350s. BTW, not all of them have to be studs. Only the ones that actually have something on the stud part. I want to say that's just the fuel lines and maybe the hydraulic line for the clutch? You can use regular rear end bolts on any position that's not actually used as a stud. Or go grab some at the junkyard. Vans of the same year are great for this because you can whip the doghouse off in 45 seconds and get 3 or 4 of the bolts or studs with one box wrench from above. There might even be some on the ground among the gmt400s since 4L60es are a wear item and people toss hardware everywhere. Wish I'd known they were metric and that you would need some though, I've probably got an entire coffee cup of them from pulling 4L80es all spring and summer.
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Jan 12, 2023 04:18
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I took them to the Autozone and they had a set of thread testers there, they are m10x1.5 on one side and m8x1.25 on the other. And yeah I was surprised they were metric as well. I considered bolts but really the issue I'm having is that the 15mm nut is too big to get a wrench around up against the bellhousing, IIRC the old ones were 13mm.
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Jan 12, 2023 17:06
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I think they're 14 and the nut that goes on the stud is 13 if I'm remembering correctly, but yeah, I forgot about head clearance, good point. And metric fasteners with JIS heads will be much harder to get locally. I'd try the junkyard personally.
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Jan 13, 2023 01:43
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kastein posted:I think they're 14 and the nut that goes on the stud is 13 if I'm remembering correctly, but yeah, I forgot about head clearance, good point. And metric fasteners with JIS heads will be much harder to get locally. ace has a selection of JIS. i would expect them to have the nuts, but those studs are going to be impossible to find anywhere.
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Jan 15, 2023 00:36
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I found the studs thankfully, less thankfully it's going to take like a week for them to get in. I had considered JIS m10 bolts but those are 1.25 thread pitch and the stud is 1.5.
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Jan 15, 2023 04:25
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 What the gently caress 2 stud size thing. I know you're sweating the time this is taking. As the person who lends out garage space, the fact that you're sweating it makes all the difference. Car project went sideways is no surprise. Keep plugging away and you'll get there.
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Jan 15, 2023 22:27
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honda whisperer posted:
Yeah if I can see you sweating and doing all the things to make it happen, I’ll usually be super chill about poo poo going sideways. Just don’t rush and make stupid bad decisions that’ll compound the problem, that’s the best way to piss me off and make me regret loaning you space.
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Jan 16, 2023 18:40
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I've been lurking this thread for ages and broke out in a genuine smile when I read the transmission had gone in  honda whisperer posted:
I haven't seen it much in road cars but this is fairly common where I work because it lets you put a bigger, stronger thread in the casting and try to save someone from ripping them out if they over-tighten the fastener. ask me about the 7/16 > M8 stud I proposed as a joke fix for this exact scenario that we then went ahead and made
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Jan 18, 2023 12:11
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jammyozzy posted:I've been lurking this thread for ages and broke out in a genuine smile when I read the transmission had gone in This makes me glad I'm at least keeping the thread running, I absolutely hate this loving truck. My current plan is to make it safe to tow, then pay the $250-300 to get it towed home and ignore it until the snow melts, then finish it up and sell it. Turns out the bellhousing wasn't quite flush on the passenger's side, so I had to lift it up again and wiggle. Miraculously I got it almost immediately. Having some trouble with the studs though, I need to find the old ones to compare them to the new ones, make sure they are the same length. They look like it but I'm worried that they are longer or something, they don't want to go in all the way.
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Jan 24, 2023 05:26
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exhaust studs? Mannnnnnn if that's the case get a thread chaser tap in the size that those run and clear em out. It'd be bullshit to break a bunch of studs this far into the game. Fortunately its a garden variety sbc and the studs/chaser tap/etc will be ridiculously easy to find. Re: hating the truck. mood.
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Jan 24, 2023 16:55
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Turns out the studs I got for the bellhousing are half an inch too long, gently caress. Anyone ever put a hood on solo? I need to get it towed this week so I've basically put everything back on that needs to be on it to be safe to tow, next up is putting the hood back on so it doesn't get a bunch of snow in the engine bay. I'm considering a ratchet strap from the hood latch to the lumber rack to get it into position but I'm not sure if there's something better. I've got all the assorted parts that I didn't get back on in the cab of the truck, I'll finish this when the snow melts. That gives me a few months to not turn a single bolt and let my hatred for this working on cars die down and Stockholm Syndrome set in again.
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Jan 31, 2023 00:06
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You can use an engine hoist and a few rachet straps to the corners and then get the hinge bolts started. That really helps avoiding dings and dents. Just cut the studs down and deburr the ends, gently caress it.
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Jan 31, 2023 02:31
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Yeah, cutting them down is the plan. I'll try that with the hoist, that should help.
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Jan 31, 2023 02:46
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ive had success picking up the hood from the middle, i.e. one hand at the leading point and one hand at the middle of where the cowl would be, and getting the bottom corners sat where they're supposed to be by the hinge. i probably dinged the paint off the corners though. its a lot easier with another person, but it's not impossible by yourself
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Jan 31, 2023 08:13
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A ratchet strap and hoist got the hood into position to get the one bolt that hadn't fallen out of the hood in  I'm trying to find replacements but it's apparently a m13 and none of the shops open at this time had that. I'll try Ace tomorrow at lunch since they seem to have the biggest selection. I also need to get a new oil filter because either I replaced it when I first got the truck and forgot, or I lost the old one. Then it should be ready to get towed on Friday so I can stop working on it until the snow melts. It's frustrating, I even threaded all the bolts back into the hood where they came from so I wouldn't lose them, I must have bumped into the hood enough to unthread them.
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Feb 2, 2023 03:17
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I would have guessed M8 or m10 for hood bolts, M13 basically doesn't exist and is huge for that. Maybe a previous owner or mechanic put a 1/2" in it after goobering something up?
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Feb 2, 2023 03:52
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M13 is a new one. That's.... larger than the lug studs probably. lmao.
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Feb 2, 2023 04:09
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Stupid question but do they take a 13mm socket or is the outside diameter of the threads 13mm.
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Feb 2, 2023 04:21
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Outside of the threads is supposedly 13, I got M10 because I thought it was right and they were way too small. Maybe M12 will work but I'm not sure. E: Actually doing 1/2" threads would probably be the closest I could get to M13, since 1/2" is about 12.7mm. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 2, 2023 |
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Feb 2, 2023 05:32
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The bolt heads will be 13mm but I don't think the bolts themselves will be. Most parts stores carry a bolt kit for 30$ ish, buy one.
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Feb 3, 2023 17:23
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Wrar posted:The bolt heads will be 13mm but I don't think the bolts themselves will be. Most parts stores carry a bolt kit for 30$ ish, buy one. Yeah, do this or hit the yards for period correctness. 13mm is prooobably a M6-M8 shank. Prob 1.0 pitch. Maybe 1.25 but I doubt it. 1/2 should be in the neighborhood of 3/8-7/16. 12-14 TP pitch.
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Feb 3, 2023 17:49
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cursedshitbox posted:Yeah, do this or hit the yards for period correctness. 3/8" is usually a 9/16" wrench size; a 1/2" wrench size should be 5/16" (and probably 18tpi).
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Feb 4, 2023 06:35
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So thought I'd ask here since I trust CT the most about subies....My nephew needs a car, he lives in NY but he's gonna come down to FL for a rust free car so I'm on the lookout until he gets here. His budget isn't the greatest ($6k) and he'd prefer a hatchback/wagon. Ran across a locally private owned '06 Forester, automatic with 187K miles on it. Seems to have been taken care of well, haven't gone to look at it yet but here's the list of recent work done on it. New tires < 7k miles Rear wheel bearings replaced New alternator New battery Radiator Radiator hoses Timing chain... (it has a belt, doesn't it?) Power steering pump New Oil seals I noticed the glaring issue of head gaskets not in that list, should it be a concern with that many miles or would it have poo poo the head gaskets by now already and this is a good one? Or do they all go eventually? Anything else to worry about? I have no clue when it comes to subarus. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Feb 7, 2023 |
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Feb 7, 2023 04:17
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I don't see headgaskets in that list and at that price point with other cooling system repairs it needs headgaskets.
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Feb 7, 2023 04:39
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cursedshitbox posted:with other cooling system repairs it needs headgaskets. Good point, didn't even think of that, and you're probably right. I'll just ask the owner if it's been done (and by done, I mean done right with the metal gaskets) and if not I'll pass on it.
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Feb 7, 2023 05:02
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I need to get the truck taken to a scrapyard because it's not worth my mental health, but the SVX started tonight. I need to get some fresh gas in it, put the cooling system back together, and put the underbody trim back on, but it started. Oh, and a new battery, assuming this deep cycle AGM isn't completely dead I'll put it in the Impreza and get a properly sized one for this. My Impreza's battery is covered in that corrosive powder that comes off of bad flooded batteries, so I think it's time to get rid of it.
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Aug 20, 2023 05:51
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Wish I'd had time to stop by and help with the truck on my way cross country 2 months ago but I was pretty ragged by the time I got to Colorado, basically just fixed my shitbox for a day and kept rolling.
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Aug 20, 2023 08:46
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Good point, didn't even think of that, and you're probably right. An 06 should be relatively out of the danger zone for headgaskets unless it's been overheated. It is an interference timing belt engine, yes.
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Aug 20, 2023 16:19
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I feel like I need to have Cat Interceptor change this thread's title, it's the third or fourth time someone has asked a generic Subaru question in here  I'm taking advantage of the fact the power has been flaky to get some work done this weekend, I need to tighten the alternator belt, put one of the timing belt cam covers back on (after checking to make sure a seal I might have screwed up isn't leaking), then fill up the radiator and transmission. And put the passenger footwell trim back together. Then I'm going to take it to the mechanic to look it over and flush the coolant because I've been doing so much work in the dust and dirt, and have him do the valve cover gaskets while he's at it because that would replace that iffy seal on the front cam plug.
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Aug 20, 2023 20:41
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I got the radiator and transmission filled, but I think I overfilled the transmission. I thought it was completely dry but I think it must have still had a few quarts in there. How harmful is that? Once I get it moved onto a level part of my lot I can drain a bit of it out. I'm still struggling with the alternator belt, now it's too tight. I've got an aftermarket radiator on the car because the old one sprang a leak between the plastic and metal portions, a common problem at this point. The problem is the fans on the radiator are so close to the lock nut on the idler/tensioner that I can't get a socket on it and it's inside a pulley so a wrench won't really go on it. So I'm having to remove the tensioner and adjust and then put it back every time, which also involves taking the power steering pulley off because the bolts holding the idler go behind the pulley. I actually ordered a couple new fans for the radiator because one broke and they both seem like $20 eBay special fans which doesn't surprise me given the reputation of the guy who made this one. Lots of corners cut and orders unfilled, but at least the radiators hold coolant. I ordered some Mishimotos because the fans currently on there seem like knockoffs of those, and the new ones coming have curved blades rather than straight so hopefully they quiet down the fan noise a bit, I was annoyed with how loud the fans are because it's incongruous with the rest of the experience of the car. I looked up how to do a coolant flush and I think I might try DIYing it, I've already got a giant coolant drain pan from when I had to drain the coolant out of the truck. Seems like drain out the coolant, fill with distilled water and radiator flush fluid (might be snake oil but I already bought it so oh well), run until it gets up to temperature, wait for it to cool down, drain, distilled water again, run up to temperature, let it cool, drain, coolant. I bought some replacement bolts for the flush-fit headless "safety bolts" they secure the ignition switch assembly with but I forgot to check thread pitch, they're M8s but they don't seem to be 1.25mm thread pitch. Or maybe I'm just screwing up and blaming what I bought, I can't tell unless I can find the bolt I took for comparison yesterday. The car is idling well now that I poured a couple bottles of octane booster in the tank. Normally I think that stuff is snake oil but a friend recommended it to make the old gas less terrible until I can fill it up properly. There's only a few gallons in the tank so hopefully that's soon. It was kind of surreal that I was just sitting there with the car idling away after over a year and a half of this thing being an albatross around my neck. I forgot how quiet the engine was for being 3.3l. I'm not seeing any coolant leaks which is good because I don't trust myself to have done a good job with the water pump or to not have bashed the radiator on something. I'm going to go to the DMV to re-register the car this week so I can be legal driving it as soon as I've got it back together. This might sound corny, but making this progress on the SVX has brought back the joy of working on cars that the truck took away from me. I hadn't worked on a car for about 6 months because I was so demoralized. Now I'm getting to a point where another huge project, at least by my standards, is almost done.
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Aug 21, 2023 04:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The car is idling well now that I poured a couple bottles of octane booster in the tank. Normally I think that stuff is snake oil but a friend recommended it to make the old gas less terrible until I can fill it up properly. Anecdotal, but I bought my '92 as a parts car in 2010 I think it was. It had an inspection sticker on it that expired in 2009. When I got it, the brake lines were rotted out, so I couldn't drive it anywhere - I just started it to make sure it ran and moved around a bit, got it towed home, and there it sat. Life got in the way, yada yada and it sat there for 10 years. I never put gas in it - whatever was in there was put in by the PO, so I don't know how old it actually was. Fast forward to 2020, Covid has hit and I can't see friends and nothing is open, so I figured I'd drag it out and start working on it. The '94 I was going to build turned out to be very much not worth it / too much work, so that one became the parts car. I put a jump pack on the '92 (not really expecting much), and it started immediately and idled on 10-11 year old gas like it was parked yesterday. These cars seem to be amazingly tolerant of poo poo gas. At least mine was. I think the PO must have put fuel stabilizer of some sort in it. That said, I wouldn't wring it out on ancient gas, but it was enough to run it and move it around the yard (at idle+ speeds at least).
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Aug 21, 2023 05:25
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It sounded pretty rough and stank bad when I started it before putting that stuff in there, but it was after a few failed starts so for all I know it was just running super rich and popped out a nice cloud of unburnt fuel. Now it's much better and I just can't believe that maybe in a couple weeks I'll be driving this thing again. I'm calling the mechanic tomorrow because I want him to do the valve cover gaskets so I don't have to and look at the engine in general because I'm an amateur. He's usually booked a couple weeks out as a lower volume but higher quality shop in the area.
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Aug 21, 2023 05:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:It sounded pretty rough and stank bad when I started it before putting that stuff in there, but it was after a few failed starts so for all I know it was just running super rich and popped out a nice cloud of unburnt fuel. did it smell like fuel, or like varnish? they don't really smell the same
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Aug 21, 2023 07:11
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I think fuel, but I don't know what varnish smells like.
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Aug 21, 2023 15:58
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I got the car moved around to the other side of the lot today, got the alternator belt on and I think tensioned right, I need to run the car a bit more and see if it's squealing. Might be a bit loose. The fans got here but I ordered the wrong size, rip. I thought they were 14" fans, turns out they are smaller, I just measured them at 11". Spal has an 11" curved blade fan that's just over 2" thick that I might go with. Spal has a good reputation and fan thickness is a big factor on this car because of how much of the engine bay the H6 takes up. Current plans: 1) get the interior back together 2) put the underbody cladding back in 3) find the battery tray and put it back in 4) put new fans in when they arrive 5) flush coolant/have it flushed 6) do an oil change 7) have the shop check it out and do the valve cover gaskets. 8) enjoy the fruits of my labors and drive it a bunch. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Aug 24, 2023 |
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Aug 24, 2023 00:42
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The new Spal fans got here, they're way slimmer than the old ones so they should fit nicely. Unfortunately I see why the fans have been acting wonky and turning on as soon as the accessory power does. The old fans (and these replacement ones) are 2-wire and they've been wired up to a 4-wire circuit, one wire to both ground wires and one wire to both live fan relays. I guess most people getting aftermarket electric fans are either replacing a mechanical fan or just want maximum cooling all the time because they're making a racecar. Unless anyone says "god no that's going to catch on fire" or has a better way of doing it I guess I'll be doing the same thing. The mounting bracket spacing is slightly different so I'm going to have to drill some new holes in the fan shroud. Not a big deal, the shroud is already off the radiator.
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Aug 26, 2023 01:18
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I got the fans wired up with some advice from my dad who is an electrician with a vested interest in me not burning alive, they're spinning, and I'm in the process of doing the coolant flush. I've dumped the antifreeze I originally put in there, done a fill with just distilled water, a fill with distilled water and radiator flush, and am now doing another fill with distilled water and radiator flush since I wanted to drive it around a bit with the flush in there. They suggest doing that that for a deeper clean and it's one of the few months where I don't have to worry about it getting under freezing at night. Unfortunately/fortunately as I was about to drive it to the hardware store I noticed that the time I spent idling while checking for water/oil leaks, making sure the fan was running, and putting the footwell trim back in led to the engine almost overheating. Fortunately because I noticed before it actually overheated. When I stopped I heard the sound of water boiling so I'm really hoping I just under-filled the radiator and that I don't have an internal head gasket leak or anything. I do have a bit of smoke coming out at idle but it's an old car and it is (well, was) a damp, cool morning. I would have smelled the smoke but there's no antifreeze in the car, just water and radiator flush, so it wouldn't have smelled sweet. The thermostat is definitely opening because the radiator got nice and hot, which it wouldn't do if it wasn't getting coolant pumped through, right? Also it turns out that the reason I thought the fans came on with accessory power is that the passenger side fan comes on with the AC, I must have noticed the fans instantly coming on during the summer when I had the AC switch turned on and it just stuck in my head that way. Fake edit: talking with a friend and he mentioned that the thermostat might just not be able to open all the way, and also told me about block testers. Going to go to Autozone and pick one up after lunch. If it's anything more than me needing to fill up the radiator better or secure a hose that's leaking that I missed I'm taking it to the mechanic. The stress of working on this car is too high, parts are too hard to find, I'm making further significant work my mechanic's problem.
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Aug 27, 2023 18:28
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It turns out that the radiator was like a quart low when that happened, I'm guessing that the coolant had been drained out of the engine's galleries when I drained it and when the thermostat opened at operating temperature they filled up and the radiator got low. Since then I have run it for as much as 30 minutes at a time with no overheating issues. I've driven it a few times without problems and am going to drain the water/flush mixture and put proper antifreeze in it tonight. I need to get some screws to secure the steering wheel trim because the old ones are lost to time, and then I need to find the driver's side timing cover and put it back on. I had been running without it because I kind of made a mess of one of the cam plugs when I didn't realize that you had to take the valve covers off to get to them, I put some sealant around the edges but I wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking. That will get replaced when I have the shop do the valve cover gaskets anyway. Then once my oil change supplies get here I'll replace the 2 year old oil because that can't be good for it. I also need to adjust one of the transmission fluid lines to the radiator, I think I just don't have the hose clamp on right. It's leaking a little bit. It's odd, when I fixed my Impreza after it got totaled I was completely exhilarated to have it back, I don't feel that with this car, at least not yet. Maybe because I'm still waiting for the other shoe to drop and something to be wrong?
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Aug 30, 2023 16:55
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I've been driving the SVX for about a week now, and this morning my coffee trip was interrupted. My dashboard lights up and my power steering goes, I pull into the Autozone parking lot (lucky timing) and I see that it completely threw the alternator/PS belt and partially threw the AC belt. Eventually I figure out that the crankshaft pulley bolt came partially unthreaded  . I went in and got a ratchet and a socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt, got the alternator/PS belt back on, removed the AC belt because I don't need it right now, and tightened down the bolt. It made it home at least, but I need to go out there after work with a breaker bar and make sure it's properly torqued down. Any advice on how to hold the pulley in place so it doesn't just spin along with the bolt? I would think the bolt being attached to the crankshaft would make it more difficult to spin but it started spinning the pulley when all I was using was a normal ~8" ratchet.If it was a manual I'd probably put it in gear and put the parking brake on so that I'm working against the full drivetrain and brakes as far as spinning the crank but it's an automatic and I don't think that would work. On the bright side I got it fixed before my coffee got cold. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Sep 5, 2023 |
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Sep 5, 2023 15:44
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Google how subaru bros do it. On some cars there's a way to jam a screwdriver into the starter ring gear to lock it. There are also special tools to engage holes or slots in the crank pulley itself. I finally bought one of those for some of the cars I work on.
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Sep 5, 2023 17:26
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