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On my 3.0EZ there’s the spanner Lloyd mentions with pins that go into 3 holes in the pulley, as I recall. I made a tool, not wanting to spend the $60 and wait for it when I had to put on a new crank pulley when the rubber isolator started failing. Edit: just looked it up. It’s 4 bolts, and the actual tool has two bolt patterns for various Subarus.
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Sep 5, 2023 21:50
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I don't think this one has those holes but I'll double-check. I've got one of those tools actually, I needed it for one of the cam sprockets. I just remembered that I have a torque wrench now from another project so I'll torque that to the high end of spec and keep an ear out for any squeaking, and keep a socket wrench with the relevant sockets in the car. It was squeaking a little bit yesterday, I wasn't sure what it was, and then it started squeaking again this morning and I realized it was belt squeal. I figured it was the new belts stretching and needing to be re-tensioned and though I would do it after work. Nope. And I won't be driving it out of town for a while, I was planning on taking a drive that I had wanted to do since before it broke down the first time but after this I think it needs a good bit more of a shakedown.
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Sep 5, 2023 22:40
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Yeah special tool or use the teeth the starter engages and a pry bar to hold the crank still. Most subie engines have an inspection port on the top of the bell housing. Just a little rubber cover and wedge a pry bar into the teeth and against the housing. If no little cover you can pull the starter out. Works best with 2 people.
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Sep 5, 2023 23:45
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you could pull a spark plug and then fill the cylinder with enough clean cotton rope that it stops the piston before reaching tdc, allowing you to torque down the crank bolt.
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Sep 6, 2023 02:21
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I have searched this thread but found nothing relevant. Working on my neighbor's daughter's '09 Forester, 2.5, no turbo, not a CA car (we're in New Jersey). It ran like crap when she bought it because it had 160K on it (the timing belt was done by the PO, who was the only owner) and it seems as though it had never had the plugs or wires replaced. I replaced them with NGKs; the wires were also replaced with NGKs. The car ran great after that...until the boots started popping out. I assured her that this was probably more maintenance debt. Cue a 10-day journey through hell removing the valve covers, discovering that the cover bolts had rust-welded themselves to the cover. Bitched the heads. I had to grind one off on the driver's side, and literally pry the cover off on the passenger side, cracking that cover in the process, and damaging the injectors and the fuel rail. BUT I got the gaskets replaced. The plug galley seals were hard as rocks. I cleaned out the tubes, but they weren't bad. Surprisingly little oil. The new plugs were torqued to spec as I am paranoid about aluminum heads. So, imagine my surprise when I finally buttoned it all up today...and it's still popping the boots off - but so far, only on the driver's side. I checked, and the galley seals are all in place, so I didn't screw that up. After extensive research, I smeared the boot internal ends with dielectric grease because the boots weren't able to be pushed all the way in. Eventually got all 4 to *snap* on, and sit tight...but the driver's side ones are still under pressure: https://i.imgur.com/Zl1FPz1.mp4 The #2 will >pop< like a cork from a wine bottle, if I pull it free. The #4 will keep pushing itself out until it misfires. #s 1&3 are holding tight on the passenger side, so far. I am stumped. My options seem to be: - Drive a turkey basing syringe needle through the boot to create a Farmer Bob pressure relief; - Buy Subaru factory plug wires and hope that they grab the plug terminal a lot tighter. VVV thank you, posted there! VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 04:56
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There is another Subaru thread you should probably try. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973186&pagenumber=790&perpage=40
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Sep 6, 2023 11:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I just remembered that I have a torque wrench now from another project so I'll torque that to the high end of spec Blue threadlocker. It'll break loose if you want it to, but a drop on the threads (seriously, just a drop, don't go nuts with it) will do wonders. Sometimes the blue comes in a red bottle or tube. Depends on the brand. The main thing to pay attention to is the color stated on the tube and packaging, and also the fact that it says "medium". Something like this, most Walmarts carry it (for cheaper than most parts stores). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 11:36
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That's a good idea. Looks like it's good up to 300F so the heat shouldn't be an issue. For some reason I thought it was lower than that.
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Sep 6, 2023 14:24
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randomidiot posted:Blue threadlocker. It'll break loose if you want it to, but a drop on the threads (seriously, just a drop, don't go nuts with it) will do wonders. Was going to suggest same if it seems like it's going to be ornery. Mine only required the torqueing to spec, per the manual. edit: PainterofCrap posted:https://i.imgur.com/Zl1FPz1.mp4 Not to poo poo up 22E's thread, but that really feels like a PCV problem. edit again: thanks for the reminder that I should also bookmark the Subaru thread, just in case I need it. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 15:56
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22 Eargesplitten posted:That's a good idea. Looks like it's good up to 300F so the heat shouldn't be an issue. For some reason I thought it was lower than that. To give some perspective, hitting it with an impact when it won't break free will heat it up quick. FWIW, on the assembly line at unnamed car maker, most of our bolts had blue threadlock already on them (some had red - important stuff like seat belts, seat mounts, etc). We had no problem backing either out if done relatively quickly (within ~30 minutes), but most of these fasteners were from other countries with pre-applied threadlock. Darchangel posted:Was going to suggest same if it seems like it's going to be ornery. Mine only required the torqueing to spec, per the manual. Shouldn't be popping them out with good gaskets - I had the same issue on Brokeback, which did have tons of blowby. Just shoving the wires a tiny bit into the boots "fixed" it. You shouldn't be getting any real pressure into the spark plug wells. Back to OP and this thread, as many of us know (but many people don't), If there's oil or ANY other kind of liquid on the threads, that's going to gently caress up the torque values (in a way that might result in a snapped bolt). If there's ANYTHING on the threads, dump half a can of brake cleaner into the crank snout hole, clean the poo poo out of the bolt (or better yet, get a new bolt - maybe the SVX used a TTY bolt?), blast the hell out of the crank snout hole with air. You never, ever apply oil or antiseize to bolts with a specified torque unless the FSM states to do so.
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Sep 7, 2023 17:31
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It was the NGK wires/boots. I replaced them with Subaru wires, which were far harder to seat - they are really on there. Also replaced the PCV valve as it looked factory (180K miles…) it rattled, but who knows if it was truly functioning properly. There was no oil in the tubes. No texts so far from the owner…
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Sep 8, 2023 00:16
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A) I got the pulley off and sprayed out the snout with brake cleaner, then sprayed the brake cleaner out with compressed air. Waiting for any remnants of brake cleaner to dry and then I'll put the loctite on the bolt and re-install after work. B) I want to change the title so people aren't confused about which is the general Subaru thread that has much more visibility than this one, any suggestions?
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Sep 14, 2023 19:59
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A SVX journey, or how I learned to love the crank bolt
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Sep 15, 2023 18:49
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Well, gently caress. I finally got the belt back on (I need to replace the tensioner nut at some point, it's rounded to the point a 12-point won't work) and now I'm getting some sort of knocking or tapping on the driver's side and since I got laid off from my day job on Halloween I'm only working part time so I can't really afford an engine rebuild. I'm going to go through the engine bay to make sure I didn't leave something in there that would cause a knock, try to get a video to upload too. No CEL but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. E: Someone on Facebook suggested it might just be the lifters if it has been sitting for a while, I figured they would get back to normal as soon as the engine got up to temp. Is that not the case? I also forgot to meant I'm getting visible exhaust way past when I would expect it even in the cold, so it might be running rich. Second edit: I started the engine again, listened for where in the engine bay it was coming from, and found that it's the rear timing cover on the driver's side rattling. I had left the driver's side front timing cover off because there was a seal I was worried about possibly leaking and I wanted to drive it a while and see if it started leaking so I didn't have oil spilling on the timing belt while it was hidden. If I hold the timing belt up against the engine block the tapping goes away. Downside: I can't find the driver's side front timing cover that I had taken off a year and a half ago. I might need to buy a new/used one. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Dec 31, 2023 |
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Dec 31, 2023 20:46
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A friend is trying to get me to wrap the SVX, and while that's not something happening any time soon (probably not until I get a garage), that requires filling in the existing paint chips and scrapes and stuff, right? Otherwise it would just seal down over the chips and you could see them through the wrap? E: While I'm at it asking questions, would clunking from the suspension indicate worn out control arm/sway bar bushings? It could also be the coilovers I have on there, it's only really a thing on big bumps or coming off a big downward hill. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 01:58
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Chips and such will definitely show through the wrap, I am told. Still probably looks better than unwrapped. I think you're right about the suspension clunks. Would be my first suspect.
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Jan 4, 2024 00:48
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I'll try new bushings once I A) am full-time employed and B) don't have snow on the ground. Seems like the only good polyurethane bushings are 90a which is harder than I'd like, but I can't find just the bushings available on Rockauto or a Subaru parts website so I guess that's what I'm stuck with. Strongflex has 80a bushings but apparently they have fitment problems so the only good ones are DRW. I checked the strut mount bolts today and they're tight, I didn't have a 19mm wrench handy for the pillow balls to make sure they're tight, although I do see they've gotten a bit of rust over the past couple years which is annoying. Today I went out to breakfast and when I got out of the restaurant (about 5 minutes from home) the battery was dead. I got a jump pack from a friend that lives a couple blocks away and got it started and went straight to Autozone. The battery tested bad, which might be partially from sitting for a few months but also my Impreza's battery was handling that fine on an older battery. Got it replaced on warranty and it cranks over faster now than the last one did when it was brand new so I think I might have gotten a lemon battery. The brakes have been kind of soft, I checked the fluid and it looks nasty, so I guess another thing on the "once the snow melts" list is doing the rear brakes, finally installing the braided lines I got, and replacing the fluid. I did the front brakes back in 2021 but never got around to the rear brakes and then they ended up in some snowmelt that got into where I had them stored so they got super rusted and I got rid of them. I guess I might be able to do the brake fluid without *too* much trouble with the snow still on the ground and just postpone the lines and rear brakes. I'll just get my friend to help me bleed them since the cheap bleeder kit I bought is terrible and useless. I've done the one man bleed thing with a rubber tube going to a gatorade bottle but I don't seem to have done it right. The brakes aren't unsafe, but they're not as responsive as I'd like and as I'm used to from the Accord. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 20:03
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I like the Mighty-Vac style bleeding kit if the vehicle doesn't have Speed Bleeders on it. I'd really like to grab one of the pressure bleeder setups, but I don't really bleed brakes often any more. The vacuum bleeder sometimes has trouble with rear drum brakes - it'll pull air past the cups in the wheel cylinder. My actual Mighty-vac eventually broke (they're 100% plastic) so I replaced it with one of the brass ones from Harbor Freight, and the jar top cracked, so I put hose nipples in a canning jar seal and use a ball jar for it. This is what I had:  https://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html $48 (slightly cheaper on Amazon) This is what replaced it:  https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html $25, and metal.
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Jan 5, 2024 17:25
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For thread title When God closes a door he opens a weird little window
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Jan 7, 2024 21:16
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honda whisperer posted:For thread title I'm okay with this one the next time a mod looks at this thread. Also the "I want to believe" tag because this thing reminds me of a spaceship. I picked up the screws to put the steering column cover back together today, but it got too dark to get them installed. I need to get new dome lights, the old ones are (hopefully just) burned out. I've also got to get the new wiper fluid reservoir in because the old one is cracked and I'm not trying to drive any kind of distance on the highway in the winter without functional wiper fluid sprayers. And I got some spray lubricant for the door hinges because they squeak a lot on opening/closing. We've got a cold snap this week but as long as I have gloves on I'm good to be out there, and if I'm working on the interior I can just have the heat running if my body heat doesn't warm the car up to a sufficient (>20 degree) temperature. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 01:24
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Well, I got the new washer fluid tank installed and confirmed no oil leaks from the cam plug after a generous application of black Permatex (The valve cover has to come off to get to the plug, which I'm probably having someone else do). Problem is I didn't find the crack in the old reservoir that I thought was there so I'm going to have to keep an eye on it after filling it and see if it's holding. I spilled enough when filling that I'm going to wait and just check the tank level because it was dripping on the ground anyway. I don't know if it's me getting used to the car or something breaking in after inactivity/new belt install but the car doesn't feel nearly as sluggish as it did before. Actually, it might have to do with me inflating the tires higher. My glovebox gauge said they were 2PSI low which is pretty impressive for sitting neglected a couple years with what are probably the original valve stems, but then when I plugged in my portable compressor it said they were 8-9 PSI low, so I need to figure out which gauge is accurate. The glovebox gauge is cheap so it's entirely possible it's a lemon.
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Jan 9, 2024 01:01
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The washer fluid still leaks out, not sure where it's coming from, I assume probably the hose since it's a new tank and new motor/pump (assuming that there's not something other than what's on the tank). The car is currently dead in the water, it got stuck in not very much snow when I pulled into my driveway on Saturday and now that I shoveled a couple feet of snow off it after Monday's blizzard and I can open the hood, the transmission fluid is super low, barely on the dipstick. I need to top it off and see if that lets it move, it tries moving a tiny bit in forward but nothing in reverse. Does that sound like low ATF? If it does let it move, I'll take it to the shop and have them look at it. The alignment is also off, I'm not sure at what point or what caused it but the camber plate on the front driver's side is all the way in whereas the one on the right is midway, and the back tires seem like they have some toe-in going on. I hope my tires aren't completely hosed already, since I don't know how many miles it has been like this. Nokian Hakkas aren't cheap. And I really hope that the transmission isn't completely hosed because if it is that's probably another 6 months to a year before I can responsibly pay someone to replace it when I have a perfectly functional Accord.
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Jan 20, 2024 22:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:the transmission fluid is super low, barely on the dipstick. I need to top it off and see if that lets it move, it tries moving a tiny bit in forward but nothing in reverse. Does that sound like low ATF? Yes. Also are you checking it with the engine running? Because at least in my experience that's also required. The torque converter drains into the pan with the engine off and will give you a false high. Forgive me autosplaining if you already knew this.
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Jan 21, 2024 22:57
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No, didn't know that, thought it was like checking engine oil where you're supposed to check it with the engine/transmission cool and off.
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Jan 21, 2024 23:09
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Double check for your specific car but usually that's the case. I just did some quick googling and yeah you do it running. Shift through the gears to pump everything up and then check it in park with the engine idling. Also, note that cold and hot is "feels cool/warm" vs "burn your flesh". if it's not extremely hot use the cold readings. If it's just been warmed up a little, or is only just at operating temp, also use the cold readings. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 21, 2024 |
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Jan 21, 2024 23:23
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Holy poo poo, I finally looked while it was running and a line between the radiator and transmission was pissing fluid at the radiator side. 20 seconds on and it looked like someone spilled a bottle of black cherry snow-cone flavoring. I got the line as far forward and the hose clamp as tight and far forward as I could, it helped for now at least but checking the level while it's running after putting another quart in the liquid is very aerated so I'm going to wait for it to settle a bit before I try again. I really hope the transmission isn't completely hosed, I don't know how I didn't see that kind of leak in the snow unless it just recently got worse.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 23, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 23:42
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Well, I got the fluid up to the proper level and it's still not going anywhere. It's clunking into gear pretty roughly but it only rolls about as much as it would in park, like when you park and take your foot off the brake without applying the parking brake. Makes me not optimistic about the transmission, a friend suggested it might be the torque converter but I know nothing about symptoms of a bad torque converter. At least it's not leaking any more?
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Jan 23, 2024 19:09
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Foam means there is air in the fluid which means don't sweat the good / hosed till that's sorted. Hydraulic fluids whole thing is being incompressible. Air loves getting compressed. Until the foam thing is fixed don't get to worried. Need the leak 100% sorted before you worry about getting all the air out.
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Jan 25, 2024 02:06
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| # ? May 12, 2024 01:49 |
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Yeah, the leak is completely sorted, there is a spot on the hose where it has been rubbed rough but only on the very surface. I'll probably end up replacing the hose if this works by doing a pinch-off and fast-swap, but if the automatic transmission is fried I'm parking the car until I can afford a manual swap, I'm not spending a few thousand on putting another 4EAT in it when I could spend a bit more to have someone competent put a low-mileage JDM manual in it and make it way more fun and less failure-prone. A manual swap has always been in the cards for the car whenever the automatic failed, I just didn't expect it to be now. It seems like the '02-'04 WRX 5-speeds, '07-'09 LGT Spec B 6 speeds, and some of the Legacy 3.0 and GT 6-speeds from Japan used the same rear diff gearing because this has a 3.545 final drive without gear reduction but those had a 3.9 final drive with a 1.1 gear reduction which comes out to 3.545. Also some of the earlier USDM STIs but those had DCCD center differentials that won't work without the DCCD system whereas the others are plain viscous. How long do I have to let the car run for the transmission to finish burping itself? I'm probably going to just end up letting it run for a while and staring daggers at that hose to make sure it doesn't fail again. Then probably check it every once in a while to make sure it isn't backing itself off or something.
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Jan 25, 2024 06:11
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