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So it looks like there's exactly one case available that will support an optical drive: https://www.microcenter.com/product/414482/cooler-master-n200-microatx-mini-tower-computer-case-black Am I missing anything, or is that it? If so, looks like none of the bundles will work since they don't come with microATX/mini-ITX motherboards. Is there somewhere else that I could get a case (or pre-built) that would support an optical drive?
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Apr 16, 2024 15:57
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The Fractal Pop Air is the only modern case I can think of that supports 5.25 drives, and it does so on the bottom of the case behind a magnetic panel while sharing space with a junk tray. Optical media has effectively been dead in the enthusiast PC space for years, so if you really need an easily accessible drive for whatever reason your best bet is something external.
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Apr 16, 2024 16:14
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unl33t posted:So it looks like there's exactly one case available that will support an optical drive: there's a lot more than that: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#G=1,12 The Fractal Design Pop Air is a pretty decent compact midtower with an optical drive bay (and there's an XL version if you need more room). The Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a little dated but it remains a solid pick if you're looking for a massive full tower. Though really, the answer these days is to forget about 5.25" drive bays and get a USB drive if you really need an optical drive for whatever reason. How often are you really gonna use one, anyway? Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 16:16
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grack posted:I'm pretty sure that if you want to go heavy RGB you should call up your parents and let them know that they were right to be disappointed in you. alright Fun Police
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Apr 16, 2024 16:25
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:there's a lot more than that: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#G=1,12 Thanks, I'll check those out. I have an external drive right now and it drives me nuts having to fiddle with loading and unloading the disks, as well as losing the desk space.
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Apr 16, 2024 17:20
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:alright Fun Police 
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Apr 16, 2024 17:21
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unl33t posted:Thanks, I'll check those out. I have an external drive right now and it drives me nuts having to fiddle with loading and unloading the disks, as well as losing the desk space. Just double stick tape it to your case.
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Apr 16, 2024 17:23
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Branch Nvidian posted:If you have access to a Micro Center you can save about $30 and get a better processor & nicer motherboard from one of their bundles https://www.microcenter.com/product...er-build-bundle Thanks for this. One question on the new part list you sent though which is that the CPU isn't showing up as a purchasable option and a MOBO and RAM are also greyed out at $0.00. Is there some bundle somewhere I'm not seeing?
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Apr 16, 2024 19:48
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SweetJahasus posted:Thanks for this. One question on the new part list you sent though which is that the CPU isn't showing up as a purchasable option and a MOBO and RAM are also greyed out at $0.00. Is there some bundle somewhere I'm not seeing? Micro Center doesn't appear on pcpartpicker. Those changes are only if you have a Micro Center nearby where you can get the CPU/RAM/Mobo bundle I posted at the start of my reply. I changed the price of the CPU to match the price of the bundle at the store, and then changed the motherboard and RAM cost to $0 since they're already reflected in the CPU/bundle price. Also as mentioned by someone after I posted, you can get a Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120SE dual-tower cooler that will perform better than the Deepcool AK400 for the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LGY38L4?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Branch Nvidian fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 19:51
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Branch Nvidian posted:Micro Center doesn't appear on pcpartpicker. Those changes are only if you have a Micro Center nearby where you can get the CPU/RAM/Mobo bundle I posted at the start of my reply. I changed the price of the CPU to match the price of the bundle at the store, and then changed the motherboard and RAM cost to $0 since they're already reflected in the CPU/bundle price. Ah understood, thanks! Yeah no Microcenter near me, and in fact have only heard of it via this thread!
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Apr 16, 2024 19:55
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SweetJahasus posted:Ah understood, thanks! Yeah no Microcenter near me, and in fact have only heard of it via this thread! Did a little finagling and I got you under $1200 before tax. I changed the GPU to an RX 7900 GRE, which saves you about $50 but performs basically the same as the 4070 Super (but no DLSS and ray-tracing performance isn't as good). You could also drop to the 7800 XT for another $50 savings. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($208.50 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-P Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($119.00 @ MSI) Memory: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($97.97 @ Amazon) Storage: Silicon Power UD90 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($102.97 @ B&H) Video Card: XFX RX-79GMERCB9 Radeon RX 7900 GRE 16 GB Video Card ($540.53 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Pop Mini Air MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.97 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $1192.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-16 15:02 EDT-0400
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Apr 16, 2024 20:07
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KingKapalone posted:I reinstalled Windows 11 and I think I did something weird with the partitions. I deleted each of the partitions on my previous 1TB Windows 11 drive and then chose New and it installed and I got it up and running. Reposting this since it got lost in the Windows activation talk.
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Apr 16, 2024 21:54
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KingKapalone posted:Reposting this since it got lost in the Windows activation talk. Try checking the boot options in Windows. Hit the Windows button, start typing msconfig, hit enter... You might find that you have two options there? Edit the options/delete the unwanted one, or change one to default, or change the delay to zero, apply it and reboot. I only have one so I can't see exactly what you might see, but it should be kind of clear, especially if the earlier one was Win 10 but if you're unsure, take a screenshot and post it. Seems that there's a few ways of doing it, this page explains the other ones too.. https://www.makeuseof.com/change-boot-menu-timeout-windows-11/ YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 22:11
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'm pretty sure that if you want to go heavy RGB you should go full Corsair ecosystem. It is the best integrated and most seamless with products covering all your multicolored needs, and the hardware is pretty good across the various product families. My advice as someone who has more money in RBG then some peoples GPUs is to keep in mind that you can always add more RGB later. Dont let LEDs eat into your budget. Start with a bunch of cheap fans that come in a multi pack online and a pwm fan hub. The main difference between cheap fans and expensive fans is the lifespan of how long they are able to stay quiet. Then 6 months later you can have the $500-1000 saved up for top of the line glowing fans that will last a long time. I don’t even have Corsair’s newest cable link system and I still don’t think I’m going to replace my RGB fans when I do my next upgrade because they still work great and look amazing. You don’t have to go Corsair, but you really should pick an ecosystem and stick with it and you might as well learn about that ecosystem before investing in it. Some games can take over razor RGB and Corsair RGB, which is a really neat feature that I wish more games supported it.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:49
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What country are you in? US Do you live near Microcenter? Yes What are you using the system for? Dual booting Windows for games and Linux for…it’s complicated (messing around with tiling wms, homelab stuff, access to Linux perf/eBPF-type stuff you can’t get on a Mac). What's your budget? $1500ish, give or take. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Considering getting a 1440p ultrawide to go with this. I’ve never done a build before, and am generally not handy (but would like to learn). My gaming is mostly not graphic intensive (last AAAs I bought at release were Elden Ring and BG3). I want things to look nice and not glitchy/low-res and not have to turn off shadows, but I don’t really need it to run the latest thing at the very highest settings. Running quiet and cool are much higher priorities. I would like it to be a little future proof (so I can play 2026’s AAAs with decent but not high graphics, for example). For the Linux stuff, I have a strong preference for Intel for LBR. I lean NVidia for CUDA all things being equal, but AFAICT all things are not equal. I find the idea of each OS getting its own drive appealing.
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Apr 17, 2024 02:52
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KingKapalone posted:Reposting this since it got lost in the Windows activation talk.
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Apr 17, 2024 02:59
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Anode posted:What country are you in? US This Intel CPU/Board/RAM bundle at Micro Center is $499.99, the build is centered around that. https://www.microcenter.com/product...er-build-bundle Two 2TB SSDs as I don't know what your OS install sizes need to be, you can downsize these as needed, but I erred on the side of you needing space for games on Windows and lots of data sets on Linux. I've put an Nvidia 4070 Super in the build since you say you lean towards Nvidia for Cuda, but also I know Nvidia and Linux can be kind of a hassle, so you can save money by changing this to an AMD RX 7900 GRE or AMD RX 7800 XT and have native driver support in Linux. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($499.99) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($0.00) Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL32 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ B&H) Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Zotac Twin Edge GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($589.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.97 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1563.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-16 22:12 EDT-0400
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Apr 17, 2024 03:15
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Finally got my new pc built, with replacement motherboard. Aside from the bent pins it all went pretty smoothly. And I'm blown away by how well it does everything. If anyone is looking at just getting started on this stuff, look at my post history and try a similar build. I couldn't be happier. Thanks to folks in the thread for helping out.
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Apr 17, 2024 03:59
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Rusty posted:Windows did this to me too. Lesson being make sure you only install windows with the main drive in from now on. I can't believe it would just use a random drive like this for my boot partition. I think you can make a boot partition on the windows drive and make it bootable, I see a few solutions, but I am not in a hurry to mess around with my PC more at this point. Windows wouldn't even let me install with two nvme drives, so I should have removed the ssd too at the same time I took out the nvme. Oh well. This one must be the most common thing that pops up time and time again, the advice is always to disconnect other drives when installing Windows. Some say that's overkill, but we see this issue probably a dozen times a year in these threads HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 07:09
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Could you guys please take a look at this list, see if these parts are going to fit nicely (sorry about it being in Czech). Planning to keep my EVGA 3080. I mainly play MMOs on a 144hz monitor or various other games on TV (4k60 target). https://www.czc.cz/368190,384070,331697,354573,391299,381497,387396/kody
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Apr 17, 2024 10:15
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Mr. Neutron posted:Could you guys please take a look at this list, see if these parts are going to fit nicely (sorry about it being in Czech). Planning to keep my EVGA 3080. I mainly play MMOs on a 144hz monitor or various other games on TV (4k60 target). If you are mainly gaming then you could get the Ryzen 7 7800X3D instead and save a bit of money (and use less electric) -edit- I checked the prices there and the 7900X3D costs about 20% more. You could easily save that by getting the 7800X3D. The RAM you have listed is 6400 which is very slightly higher than the usual sweet spot of 6000. It should be fine, but maybe check it is in the validated list for your motherboard. The PSU isn't modular. Personally, I'd pay another £10-20 for a modular one of the same quality. Not a massive issue though, but a modular one is easier to build with. Even more so nowadays when SATA and Molex connectors are used much less. Just leaving them unplugged is easier than having to hide them somehow, not to mention having to handle the "fat snake" of cables heh. Seems that this review says it is a bit noisy too. However, they highly rated an NZXT unit I bought that was a piece of poo poo, so idk... https://hwbusters.com/psus/xpg-kyber-850w-psu-review/11/ Had a look at what is available there and the prices and some brands are very different to even the UK so maybe some Euro Goon could advise better. Or maybe I'm making a big deal out of captive cables and it isn't worth the hassle, se what the others say too. YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 11:32
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HalloKitty posted:This one must be the most common thing that pops up time and time again, the advice is always to disconnect other drives when installing Windows. Some say that's overkill, but we see this issue dozens of times a year in these threads I've seen official Linux installation guides that warn about it. Windows will just help itself to any drives it can reach during installation no matter what's already there.
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Apr 17, 2024 11:37
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Hmm I have seen that above but I always thought it was so you don't accidentally wipe the wrong drive. I'll have to look at these methods and hope I can remedy it.
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Apr 17, 2024 15:23
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Branch Nvidian posted:PCPartPicker Part List Thanks, this is awesome! Would getting a slightly nicer case help with making it more quiet or does it not make an appreciable difference?
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Apr 17, 2024 15:55
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Anode posted:Thanks, this is awesome! Would getting a slightly nicer case help with making it more quiet or does it not make an appreciable difference? You can get a more silent case, but it will make the thermals worse. You're better off getting a high airflow case like that one and then tuning the fan curves and undervolting the CPU and GPU to get lower temps and quieter fans.
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Apr 17, 2024 15:59
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IIRC that case comes with 3x 120mm fans, but will fit 140s. Swapping some 140s in, could maybe let you get better airflow and/or be a bit quieter. 140s can be ran slower than the 120 making them quieter (or the same noise and run cooler) It would need some experimentation with placements and speeds but it is a pretty easy and cheap thing to try. I added a 140mm Fractal fan to my North case, iirc it was only £12 or so. TBH in my case it probably made no difference, but at the price the placebo effect is fine
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Apr 17, 2024 16:31
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YerDa Zabam posted:If you are mainly gaming then you could get the Ryzen 7 7800X3D instead and save a bit of money (and use less electric) Thanks. Is the case/cooler OK? I read somewhere these new CPUs almost require watercooling. The case only comes with two front 120mm fans, should I add more?
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Apr 17, 2024 16:48
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Mr. Neutron posted:Thanks. Is the case/cooler OK? I read somewhere these new CPUs almost require watercooling. The case only comes with two front 120mm fans, should I add more? The new CPUs do not require watercooling unless you are getting the very high core count parts, which you should only do if you have a specific productivity need for a lot of cores. AMD CPUs are generally more power efficient right now and that cooler is more than sufficient.
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Apr 17, 2024 16:58
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The new CPUs do not require watercooling unless you are getting the very high core count parts, which you should only do if you have a specific productivity need for a lot of cores. AMD CPUs are generally more power efficient right now and that cooler is more than sufficient. As mentioned before in this thread, I'm cooling a 7950X3D (which as the same TDP as the 7800X3D) with a $30 air cooler and it's literally never throttled while gaming
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Apr 17, 2024 17:24
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Mr. Neutron posted:Thanks. Is the case/cooler OK? I read somewhere these new CPUs almost require watercooling. The case only comes with two front 120mm fans, should I add more? Watercooling is for the crazies, nah no need*. Those AMD parts are 65w-120w which is gently caress-all really. Even the spicy Intel ones are fine under a decent air cooler. Cooler looks fine to me. The case is fine too. A lot of it is down to if you like how it looks (bar the odd infamous hot-box, but this isn't one) The same as I mentioned above regarding fans in the Air Pop is roughly relevant here too. You can add one or two 140mm ones and maybe get slightly better cooling and/or a quieter setup. It comes with 2x 140s, personally I'd add another one and fit it to the rear or the back and se how it goes. I just bought the same fan as comes with the case (Fractal Aspect 14) and it was £12, so not a big deal even if it doesn't do much As a general tip for fans of all types Fan Control is a definite recommendation (Windows only) It is loving amazing and I've even opted to pay the guy some money I'm so enamored. It makes tweaking fans so much better than anything on the market. I was overwhelmed initially tbh, but the author has a couple of good how-to videos on Youtube. Most likely there are plenty of other guides too. https://getfancontrol.com/ *Currently considering water cooling my own GPU. Don't do this either, it is a bad idea.... YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 17:25
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I also just found Fan Control and also sent him  after watching the JayZTwoCents video about it.
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Apr 17, 2024 20:57
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I loving hate that guy, but the fact that it spread the good Fan Control news, and got the guy another complicates it for me. I'm having a real " his watercolors were alright" moment "Joking" aside, the only issue I had with Fan Control, is that it kept failing to start with windows. If anyone else has that problem, then this fixes it totally. https://github.com/xhul-dev/FanControl-WinStart YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 21:08
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YerDa Zabam posted:Try checking the boot options in Windows. Thanks, deleting the Win10 one worked.
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Apr 17, 2024 21:31
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YerDa Zabam posted:I loving hate that guy, but the fact that it spread the good Fan Control news, and got the guy another I heard about it on Reddit but the GitHub page links to the JayZ video. He gave him $500 in the video. It's amazing how terrible the official apps are. I was already using a separate command line tool for my TT fans but I was never really happy with how it was going. Now I'm on this as my second unofficial piece of software and it's amazing how much better it is than everything.
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Apr 18, 2024 01:02
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Aw, that's cool that Jay gave him some cash, he gets a few points in the good column. It really is just so good though. Even on its own merits. But yeah if you compare it to the awful poo poo that the manufacturers put out it is another level.
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Apr 18, 2024 01:11
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Building a new PC for the first time in 7 years and I'm having trouble deciding between two very similar power supplies at the same price. Are there any experts in the thread that could help shed some light on this? Thanks in advance! 1. https://www.microcenter.com/product...Gaming_and_Vari 2. https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-foc...S0gDxpFgkpUM28Q
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Apr 18, 2024 01:34
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The Newegg listing has a 12VHPWR connector natively on the PSU, while the other would have to use an adapter.
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Apr 18, 2024 02:00
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Branch Nvidian posted:The Newegg listing has a 12VHPWR connector natively on the PSU, while the other would have to use an adapter. Thanks for the reply. It was my understanding those connectors were not designed very well and should be avoided, so I was planning on using an adapter in either case. Is that correct? I should have added that this will be powering a 7800x3d and a 4070 super.
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Apr 18, 2024 02:10
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As long as you make sure the cable is fully seated they’re fine. The issue was with the some of the cables being too difficult to fully put in place and then they would slowly work themselves loose and have issues with grounding or something that melted the connectors.
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Apr 18, 2024 02:41
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So should i go with the one with the newer connector as it is probably generally better because newer?
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Apr 18, 2024 03:10
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