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Motronic posted:Yeah, and there's more than just those two now. Basically the oil needs to be "miscible" with the refrigerant. Otherwise it's like salad dressing......oil and water as a colloid you need to shake up. If the oil doens't mix it's gonna kill your compressor. From my info it's generally mineral oil for r12, pag for r134a, and POE for r152a and r410a. Be warned that Harrison R4 compressors apparently do not tolerate POE oil well at all which is really saying something since they blew rear end even with mineral oil. I've never heard of pve oil so I'll shut up now.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:22
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 19:33 |
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You also need the correct amount and type of oil for the compressor used, a txv or capillary tube depending on which the system was designed for, a vacuum pump, and a manifold gauge set for your chosen refrigerant, probably the HF one will be fine. Wish you were still close by, I have all my ac service stuff right where it was last time still and another set in Washington already. None of this is super expensive, you can probably get it all for less than a chain store will charge for one vac and refill these days.
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Jun 2, 2022 23:09
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I am here to relate my AC tale. 1998 Honda Civic wasn't blowing cold air and it didn't sound like the compressor was kicking on. I gotta ask since I don't see it mentioned even though you obviously do this more than me (just on fixed systems not vehicle) - you made sure it's got enough oil in it right? That thing isn't gonna last long if you didn't add enough to make up the deficit from the condenser swap, especially since if it ran for any length of time like that it probably drat near drained itself of oil leaking liquid from the bottom of the condenser like that.
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Jun 12, 2022 21:55
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Generally you can take two approaches, one is to use an oil syringe (I think they're linked in the first or second post, not sure) or fill the yellow hose on your manifold gauges with oil and then force it in with a little refrigerant, repeat as necessary. Make sure you don't slug the compressor though. There's usually a chart for how much oil to add for each component replaced. I've never had to use it as I've always been doing either a full replacement or a component replacement and recharge on a car I barely cared about so I just kind of poured some in and slammed it back together.
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Jun 12, 2022 23:35
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One thing to keep in mind, once you vacuum the system you have to put something in it before disconnecting the gauges because otherwise it'll suck in air. The Schrader valves only retain pressure, they'll let air right in if it's vacuumed and you disconnect. So given that it all holds pressure I'd probably replace all the o rings and dryer, vacuum test it, then put refrigerant (and oil if needed, I can't recall exactly what you've replaced so far) in and run it.
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Jul 16, 2022 15:49
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If it's anything like most automotive systems I've seen, they probably designed it to not be possible to put together wrong, unless there was no other choice.
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May 23, 2023 08:34
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 19:33 |
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I do, but I was in Massachusetts at the time and am now in Washington State. I may have mentioned being able to do it on one of my cross country drives.
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Mar 4, 2024 02:18
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