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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD extended cab with 8' bed; 6.0, 199,000 miles. One owner, reasonably unmolested (it's my neighbor's, and I have done all of the molesting since he bought it 19-years ago)

I'm working on the 'reduced power' issue that cropped up about 8-years ago, and had gradually gotten worse until it sidelined this truck for the past couple years. May have it licked; I've been driving it daily to see if it'll go into limp.

Noticed the A/C was warm. It has never had any A/C work done on it, and worked fine a year+ ago but it's been sitting mostly all that time because it would go into RPM as soon as it was started.

Static pressure at 78-degrees was 25/65.

The compressor would not kick on until I added refrigerant, and then it started short-cycling, with the low side 25-80 and the high side 50-100, alternating when the compressor kicked on (for about 4-seconds, then 10-seconds off).

No matter how much refrigerant I introduced (maybe 8-ounces), only the low side went up - as far as 90. Drew down the refrigerant in case I ruptured something.

I'm guessing:
- bad compressor
- blocked orifice tube
- bad temp/pressure sensor somewhere.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Checked today, both reading 45. I’m replacing the orifice tube and the receiver/drier/accumulator as well as the switch on it.

You ain’t kidding about cheap: all 3-parts were $42.00.

After that it’ll be the compressor, if he wants to.

At the risk of being repetitive/not reading: is it possible to get a recommendation for the compressor?

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jun 8, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



MrOnBicycle posted:

2003 E39. I've checked that there is no gas in the system by hooking up a set of A/C vacuum gauges. Nothing at all registering. So I figured it all leaked out from a damaged condenser or something. I hooked up the vacuum pump and it got it down to 29mmHg and after shutting it off and closing the valves ( and fixing a leak in the connector), the system held a vacuum for at least an hour.

I bought the car with the A/C not working (winter buy), so I don't know for how long it's been out or if anything preceeded it not working. The compressor obviously won't run, but I cant force it on in INPA (diagnostics program) neither, so don't know if it runs.

Maybe the gas just slowly escaped and the P.O never bothered to fix it? If there anything else I should check before going to a A/C place for a charge?

My son’s 2000 Accord had a leak we chased for over a year. Took it to a shop that charged it; leaked down within a week. Held pressure on vacuum.

Finally, pulled the Schrader valves. Low-side valve had a blown inner o-ring.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



My son's '01 Accord is still leaking. Replaced the Schraders, but after a couple weeks it was blowing warm.

I replaced the O-rings on the compressor today; there's leak detector in there, but no leaks have been detected. I'm guessing it may be the hoses; if I decide to do them will probably replace the condensor and receiver/drier as well. It's blowing about 42-degrees as of this evening, so it's clearly working fine.

My wife's '13 Kia Soul is putting out maybe 60-degrees; it seems to be fully charged, and is holding it fine so I'm wondering if it's the condensor, or maybe the compressor's going. Will be checking the cabin air filter tomorrow; though that seems like a stretch to me.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jul 15, 2023

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