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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Hell yes this owns. AI absolutely needs a second J truck build
Pleasantly surprised its not getting a 6BT.
R2.8/6l80 would be a pretty decent modern combo. 160hp/310ft-lb might be a bit pokey out of the box on 4.56/40s but its fiiiiine.


Krakkles posted:

I love this truck and want to work on it and wheel with it.

:same:



Raluek posted:

mainly i just hate how they smell, how they sound, and if it was me i woulda wished it was a V8 every time i drove it

V8 noises and diesel can be had pretty easily. Small bonus is having a huge honkin turbo to accentuate the v8 howl.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

tuna posted:

Cummins needs to get their stupid poo poo together and sell a 3.8 crate motor. Dare me to order an ISF3.8 from Alibaba in protest?

The 2.8 is a bit underpowered for the weight/size of this vehicle but what choice do I really have? None! No choice! On the plus size, the low weight over the axle is nice for longevity and there are 200hp/400ftlbs tunes out there to be had.
I haven't ordered the 2.8 yet so if there is a better suited diesel for this truck I'm all ears - It just needs to not be huge and tall, because I do need axle articulation.

Yeah your options suuuuck taking heft and tallness off the table. Plus the 2.8 is the cool new kid on the block. Turn the wick up to 400lb-ft and enjoy. It'll leave you wanting more at some point though.
The old v8 iron pigs don't offer much out of the box for their enormous heft up front, however the old dirtymax can throw down double its factory output with ease.

R2.8 dims:
25.1"L
25"W
28.3"H
~500lb (161hp/310lb-ft)

6.6 Dirtymax dims:
30" L
30" W
32" H
~835lb (lb7: 235-300hp/500-520lb-ft)
Upside: Allison! 6 speed stick optional. LB7 should be on its second/third set of injectors by now.
Downside: Allison! Stupid cooling pump design.
These roughly slot in at ~ old school big block v8 weights and dimensions.

7.3 PSD/T44E (IDI basically the same but with R2.8 power out of the box)
34"L
32" W
38" H
920lb (210-275hp/425-525lb-ft)
Upside: "Unkillable".
Downside: "Unkillable" because it makes no power. 4R100 is "ok". 6 speed stick costs twice that of a good longblock.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

tuna posted:

The duality of goons. I'll never please everyone. Especially not cursedshitbox because my current conclusions are: Duramax is too complex, too expensive, history of not fitting in a 715 (especially if I still need to fit AC etc.). R2.8 is a bit underpowered, also expensive. The inbetween option, and one that I think is going to have to be it is: seen-it-a-thousand-times-be4bt.

Boringly they've been done to death, but that's also going to help with information and resources. The 4bt is a bit on the heavy side but nothing like a 6bt. The numbers I see from those things are actually pretty drat impressive and being all mechanical is a huge plus for tuning. The downsides are that it's gonna be a rattly ride but :shrug:

Sorry I've been offline for the week.

Nah don't sweat it. I can't please myself. Also lol I run a 7.3 IDI with a S257SX-E that's pushing almost 7 tons on 37s up and down trails. I am notthe voice of reason. ISB Common Rail has been on my brain the last week or so....as has a compound turbo 6BT.

Its insanely hard to find proper dims for the v8s, which yeah I agree is offputting.

don't bother with a 4BT. The six is about the same price and has two more holes on deck to help push that thing down the trail. The loud af noise can be dealt with using a shitload of firewall/hood/floorboard insulation. Poly mounts will make it vibe some. 6BTs are like the LS of the diesel world is all. I still love the poo poo out of them and all of its derivatives. Everytime my IDI gives me fits I secretly plan to turn it into a generator and drop a 6BT/ISB in its place. Bonus is that these mills come in schoolbuses and motorhomes so engine/transmission takeouts are really easy to find. The MH option usually comes with running a bit more punch than their industrial/schoolie counterparts.

More power is always better, but if that power can't be put down it is loving worthless. Be it suspension or traction at the tire...

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Ohhhh poo poo! Thats some baller repressed emotions you got there!

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Now, why the vacuum pump? For brakes?

If so.
My dude. Hydroboost.
I have no idea if there's drop in options for your truck. If not. I know a shop in socal that'll build one for you. They built one for me in 2019. its a fantastic piece of kit.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

tuna posted:

Yeah the brake booster I have now is a vacuum one.

I honestly hadn't considered hydroboost but it sounds like they're better in every way so that's interesting, thanks for the suggestion! I doubt anything is drop in for this vehicle but what sort of unit should I be looking at for a 6500-7000lbs truck? I can fab brackets myself. I think a hydroboost steering pump will actually fit better too, I've seen some builds where the steering/vacuum pumps have some clearance issues with the P-pump.


Run whatever GM booster on a saginaw pump if you can... or whatevers on the 4BT. I'm about 5 thousand pounds heavier than 7k-lb truck and a 1T GM unit stops my poo poo on its nose*. My supply pump is the groan-o-matic ford one. it does the job just fine. The ford SuperDuty/Econoline boosters are good too, just the GM ones are way more common and dirt loving cheap. (there's like one supplier for the whole market for the working end, the firewall end and pushrods vary)


* that unit kept me out of a 3 car pileup involving a non-motorist a few weeks ago. it is key for what I'm doing and its saved my life and others countless times in the 3 years its been on my truck.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
B. No parallelograms in cages. Even though there's a horizontal cross tube, your upper and lower diagonals still create one.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Almost 800lb on an (assumed small) engine stand? I wouldn't without bracing and extending the stands legs.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
The bolts are good for it. sit it down on the stand slowly with the crane still attached and heehaw on it... If it feels sketch, don't do it.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
drop it on your chest, its only 150lb. Oh, you're not 20 anymore. Uh yeah grab the welder and fashion up a bracket that mates the awkward bastard with your standard floor jack.


I'll do a pedal travel check when I have the truck running next. I did it on the accumulator and its almost an inch of travel shoving the pedal with my arm.
In going from vacuum to hydroboost its important to not forget to change the ratio of the pedal. I moved the pin and welded it back into place on mine. I'll grab the ratio for you when I do the travel test, I don't have the notebook with me at the moment.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Sorry its taken me a bit.
.250" to engage, .500" full boost. Pedal ratio is 5:1.

Slushy vs manual:
It looks to me the controller can be programmed for custom modes. If it can be programmed to manually select a single gear and lock/unlock the tcc, it would be just as good if not better than any stick out there.
IE if you want LO - 3rd to climb an obstacle, you can select 3rd and 3rd alone rather than LO then run through gears 1-3.

Sticks will always be simpler. However automatics can be built a lot stronger than any stick... I like having a manual but sometimes a torque converter would be nice.
failures? uhh keep fresh fluid in it and don't let it get too hot. ime they'll handle rated power plus 20-30% or so with gentle application of it. 50-80% of rated with shockloading.

Primary argument for keeping a stick is for being able to float-shift doublers or whatever and turning your 5-6speed into a 12. Pulling it off with an automatic is possible with machining/electrickery but a stick does that quite easily. Though this is probably way left field for your truck.

Tuning an automatic isn't too bad. I helped get a fellow goons 4r100 dialed in behind a p-pumped compound turbo 6bt recently in the before times. You do kind of need two people for that.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
You will have issues with belt slippage with the a/c compressor running using that routing. The tensioner needs an idler in front of it between it and the crank pulley otherwise the crank pulley will directly act on the tensioner preventing it from working. the compressor may not have enough belt wrap.


Sorry for the weird colors. here's a few alternates.

This is actually pretty close to your original. It should work however it may need an idler to add a little extra wrap between the compressor and alternator.



Yet another alternate using the b-series fan pulley, the original tensioner placement, and another idler where below the compressor should yield good result. Downside is the belt is ultra long.




There's a mounting boss at the lower left of the block, that can probably house the tensioner and move it to the 'push' side of the belt if you wish to skip the original b series fan drive idler.



Note that with all of these the crank pulley is 'pulling' on a statically mounted pulley. be it an idler, or the alternator directly. preserve that regardless of what you go with. Try for at minimum one half to two thirds if not more of the compressor pulley wrapped with the drive belt.

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