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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

I love this truck and want to work on it and wheel with it.

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

tuna posted:

In the chat thread recently there have been a few welding discussions and here is where I stand by my recommendation to just buy pre-cut coupons for welding practice/tests. Yes, I can buy a large 1/4" plate for cheaper and spend a bunch of time and energy cutting it up into my own coupons but it's 100f out, I've been rolling around on the floor for a while grinding a disgusting frame clean again and I'm nervous about getting the welds as good as I can - the last thing I want is extra work.
You convinced me, not least because I'm in the same weather :D

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

:ck5:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

I think B is stronger, but I look forward to being wrong :allears:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

That’s exactly what I was thinking, although I didn’t realize it was an explicit rule. Nice.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

I’ve got a hydroboost mustang, I’ll measure whatever you want if it would help. Movement of the mount point of the rod at the pedal when pedal is depressed?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

So, from start to an estimate of braking to a stop casually, I measured 3/16". Standing on it, 1/2".

I will say, it's kind of a bitch to get under there, and I measured by getting a piece of cardboard flush against the firewall and marking it with a sharpie. I'm up for retrying alternate methodologies or, if need be, I think you're a couple miles from me, you're more than welcome to come double check it, too :) Some light googling suggests that 1/2" travel for a mustang is about right, though.

edit: Should add, measured with someone else hitting the pedal with the mustang running, if that matters.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

tuna posted:

Interesting, that's not very far at all. For reference, with it bolted on and completely unplumbed and empty, the pushrod will move 1.5-2" at least, I just can't be sure of the ending of it due to the current pedal setup. Maybe it won't need much travel at all once there's fluids in there then? Thanks again for going through all that for me, much appreciated!
Happy to! It seems possible, given the forum posts about Mustangs I was finding yesterday - several mentioned that the old-manual-unpowered brake pedal boxes have about that much (I think 1.8"?) travel, whereas the powered brake pedal boxes are significantly shorter throw.

I'm not at all a brake expert, but I know that the cars I've driven with unpowered brakes pretty universally have more travel in the pedal, and (especially as they get newer), powered brakes have relatively little.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

tuna posted:

A manual trans isn't my first choice because I honestly think offroading with an auto is a delight.
I agree with this completely, but it sounds like if that controller isn't available/doesn't work/isn't supported, manual might be the way to go.

That being said: A lot of automotive (and probably especially offroad) products are made, sold, and/or marketed by, basically, that racist old uncle who thinks EFI is a gubmint conspiracy. Aside from the "ew, no" aspect of this, it's not at all uncommon that there's one really lovely website with basically no documentation. It's not impossible that it's still a decent product, and there do seem to be some forum posts detailing people installing it without too much strife.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

tuna posted:

I've read that thread before but a lot of it went over my head, reading it again, internet user fabmec's post has a lot of good information in it and it's actually a little reassuring.
One thing that seems like a complete ball ache is transmission tuning. Having to buy hptuners software/hardware licenses and all that poo poo on top of everything else is the least interesting thing I can think of to do. Still a lot of unknowns.
I agree completely, but I know BoostCreep used it with his Lexus drift car and seemed to think it was pretty straightforward.

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

In your shoes that would be a hard choice. I love having a manual and 4.56 gears in my TJ because I can put it in first and low and pretty much ignore the clutch, with better engine braking than I ever got out of my 545RFE WJ.
This would be cool, but I have to say, “stay on the brakes as long as you like and keep the auto lockers engaged and prevent any rollback at all” is pretty nice too.

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