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Can any y’all recommend an alternative to SW urethane trim enamel? It’s become my go-to for trim and cabinet painting, but it seems to have completely disappeared and no stores I’ve checked with have any idea when it’ll be back in stock.
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Apr 14, 2022 19:21
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We bought an old house. The previous owner paid for really high-quality work... until he needed to repaint for sale. He hired somebody who didn't prep, didn't prime, used cheap paint, and in general gave not a single poo poo. The photo gallery shows woodwork he spackled but forgot to paint, unpainted areas on the back of a stair, a stair tread whose paint has worn through after 9 months of use, and unpainted areas on a wall.    So here's the question. Given how bad the paint job is, how do I prep it so the next coat will adhere? The entire house is beadboard, so putting down a skim coat is not on the cards.
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Apr 14, 2022 22:59
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Mister Dog posted:Can any y’all recommend an alternative to SW urethane trim enamel? It’s become my go-to for trim and cabinet painting, but it seems to have completely disappeared and no stores I’ve checked with have any idea when it’ll be back in stock. You can ask if they happen to have any Pro Industrial Waterbased Urethane Alkyd available in the sheen and base you need. It's a very similar (if not identical) product in SW's industrial lineup. Otherwise Ben Moore Advance is probably what I would look for.
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Apr 15, 2022 00:50
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Arsenic Lupin posted:So here's the question. Given how bad the paint job is, how do I prep it so the next coat will adhere? The entire house is beadboard, so putting down a skim coat is not on the cards. The next coat adhering isn't really the concern, if they just used a cheap latex you'll stick to that no problem with any quality paint as long as it's clean, dry, and dull. The problem is if the crappy paint job isn't well adhered you'll probably just have it continue to chip/peel and take your new paint with it. Anything not well adhered ought to be scraped, sanded, or stripped down to a sound substrate. Anything that's tight but just ugly looking you can sand smooth any imperfections and prime/paint from there.
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Apr 15, 2022 01:07
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How do I test whether it's well adhered?
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Apr 15, 2022 04:23
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The official industry method is to cut a cross hatch (think like a tic tac toe board with a few extra lines) through the paint with a razor blade, stick masking tape to it, and then pull the tape off sharply and see how much come off. But really for informal checking around the house I'd just be scratch testing with my fingernails and see if it's scratching off easily.
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Apr 15, 2022 11:42
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I'm very close to accomplishing the very annoying task of ceiling paint matching. The original paint used was White Dove from BM. I tried classic gray - too dark. then seapearl, which is pretty close. Then I found glacier white which looks to be right in between seapearl and white dove white dove - 238 235 226 (83.2) seapearl - 230 227 216 (76.4) so the "average" of those is 234 231 221 (79.8), and glacier white is 234 232 222 (80.2). pretty drat close! I'm posting because I want to understand - is it normal that the color difference is a bit more noticeable from the side than below? I think this is from light hitting it? though it's not a lot of light, and obviously since it's flat it won't reflect much - I think if it was a glossier sheen it would be more noticeable (?) you can see that i painted it directly SE of the bottom right vent corner - the much whiter strip along the wall edge is the new white dove, and the rest of the ceiling is the white dove from 10 years ago. It is super close, a but a bit more noticeable (when compared with the original ceiling color) from the side than from directly below.
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May 3, 2022 20:49
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actionjackson posted:I'm posting because I want to understand - is it normal that the color difference is a bit more noticeable from the side than below? I think this is from light hitting it? though it's not a lot of light, and obviously since it's flat it won't reflect much - I think if it was a glossier sheen it would be more noticeable (?) Yup, completely normal. If it looks good viewed perpendicular to the surface then you should have a pretty good color match. Once you're on an angle all of the other variables in the paint and application will become more apparent- sheen difference, mil difference, application difference (brush vs roll vs spray), stipple, etc. If there's a strong light source beyond what you're looking at that will make it more noticeable. Mitigate that by going light on your touch up application, feather it out real well, and sometimes thinning the paint with a touch of water can help it blend a little better.
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May 3, 2022 23:29
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Final Blog Entry posted:Yup, completely normal. If it looks good viewed perpendicular to the surface then you should have a pretty good color match. Once you're on an angle all of the other variables in the paint and application will become more apparent- sheen difference, mil difference, application difference (brush vs roll vs spray), stipple, etc. If there's a strong light source beyond what you're looking at that will make it more noticeable. Mitigate that by going light on your touch up application, feather it out real well, and sometimes thinning the paint with a touch of water can help it blend a little better. alright thanks, the only thing i'm annoyed by is that I couldn't get flat in the sample tins, but whatever. i'll see how the glacier white goes. I'm honestly just using a foam brush (lol) because it's a small area. I was surprised how small the difference in brightness really is between the new white dove and the old "white dove" - I thought they were much farther apart.
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May 4, 2022 00:13
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Planning to use "slamfärg" when I paint my shed. Translates as "mud paint". Wikipedia translationquote:Mud paint is a paint for wooden surfaces. It consists of pigments suspended in a glue, traditionally made from wheat or rye flour and water. Technically, it can be classified as an adhesive paint. In addition, most mud paints contain additives of linseed oil or other organic substances that strengthen the binder. By far the most common dye in Sweden is red pigment. Its use became widespread in the countryside around the year 1900 and today Falu Rödfärg is the completely dominant brand. The red pigment from the falu mines contains various trace minerals that give it protective and anti-bacterial and algal properties. There are of course many other varieties of mud paint.  It's a very simple paint and people even cook it at home. It has a distinctive look and properties. For instance it does not seal the wooden surface under a water tight layer, you also don't need to spend a lot of effort to repaint the surface, it's enough to use a stiff brush to wipe the wall off before applying a new layer. It's good it does not require a lot of work or stripping of existing paint since you usually want to touch it up every 8-10 years (though my parents shed at home hasn't been painted in 20-30 years and looks ok still, a bit worn). I will aim for a grey-blue or dark color, to match the buildings in my yard which are all grey-blue.
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May 4, 2022 11:48
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His Divine Shadow posted:Planning to use "slamfärg" when I paint my shed. Translates as "mud paint". Wikipedia translation That’s interesting stuff! Didn’t know anything about it before
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May 4, 2022 13:19
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I did it, I loving did it, the hardest thing in interior painting, matching ceiling paint. But I had a lot of help because I knew the original color. It was painted ten years ago, and when I got a new can, it looked similar from below, but noticeably different from the side. This should have been a clue that I was super close. The paint was an 83 LRV, I somehow started with a 74 LRV (wtf), then 77, then 80. The final solution ended up being 3/4 of the 83, and 1/4 of the 80. So the LRV of the paint only went down like, one point.
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May 7, 2022 23:28
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actionjackson posted:I did it, I loving did it, the hardest thing in interior painting, matching ceiling paint. But I had a lot of help because I knew the original color. It was painted ten years ago, and when I got a new can, it looked similar from below, but noticeably different from the side. This should have been a clue that I was super close. The paint was an 83 LRV, I somehow started with a 74 LRV (wtf), then 77, then 80. The final solution ended up being 3/4 of the 83, and 1/4 of the 80. So the LRV of the paint only went down like, one point. This sounds like something they make medication for
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May 8, 2022 00:24
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well still beats paying $900 to have the whole ceiling repainted, that's for sure!
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May 8, 2022 01:24
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would it make sense for a flat or matte finish on a cabinet door to look slightly lighter than the benjamin moore sample sheet? I'm not sure what finish is used on those sheets, but I'm guessing eggshell
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May 25, 2022 19:29
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i need to paint a concrete patio. it is already painted, but the paint is in bad shape, and i have no reason to believe it is the correct paint or applied correctly. i know you're supposed to use special paint for concrete. how do i prep this surface? there are decades of existing paint layers and i doubt i will ever get them all off
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Jun 20, 2022 17:55
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With multiple existing coats that are in bad shape, the best bet by far would be to have someone grind it down to bare concrete. Around here that runs around $1-2/sqft. Or you may be able to rent a grinder and do it yourself. If that's not in the cards then pressure wash the poo poo out of it to get any loose and peeling paint off. Scrape any remaining questionable areas to make sure the remaining paint is as sound as possible. Compatibility comes in to play with different floor coatings, and not knowing what's down there now I'd prime it, I've heard good things about this Rustoleum primer. Then go to your hardware or paint store of choice and get their best water-based enamel for concrete floors. Don't go epoxy on a patio, they aren't UV stable and will chalk and fade quickly with direct sun.
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Jun 20, 2022 23:53
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You can rent a sandblaster and media blast the paint off maybe. Also consider chemical strippers, I'd go with one of the citrus-based ones on the premise that even if I was really careful with disposal of stripped paint I'd still be potentially creating toxic runoff with a more toxic paint stripper.
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Jun 22, 2022 00:24
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Dumond Smart Strip is a great safe and biodegradable stripper. Just gotta be really thorough with removal of the stripper on something like concrete since it will soak into the concrete to some degree and you don't want stripper residue loving up your new paint.
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Jun 22, 2022 00:36
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I went to get a quart of benjamin moore paint in flat, I was told that they are.. discontinuing flat and instead using matte? wtf This was for their most common interior line "ben" they do have specific ceiling paints like muresco but they are just white, it doesn't have different bases like ben, which has four of them how could they do this to me
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Jun 30, 2022 16:49
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Seems strange, might be worth calling another BM dealer and see if they say something different. With raw material constraints still going on in the industry a lot of manufacturers are streamlining skus and product offerings, but dropping Ben in flat completely would be an odd move. I would think it's more likely they're discontinuing or pausing production on just the quarts so they can focus on gallons or that they need to catch up on production and your dealer just hasn't received some for a while.
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Jun 30, 2022 17:04
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Final Blog Entry posted:Seems strange, might be worth calling another BM dealer and see if they say something different. With raw material constraints still going on in the industry a lot of manufacturers are streamlining skus and product offerings, but dropping Ben in flat completely would be an odd move. I would think it's more likely they're discontinuing or pausing production on just the quarts so they can focus on gallons or that they need to catch up on production and your dealer just hasn't received some for a while. on their site it looks like all ben flat has been discontinued, regardless of size now if you want to get a specific color in flat you'd need to buy a full gallon of the waterborne ceiling paint. muresco is just two specific whites without a base to mix.
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Jun 30, 2022 17:27
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Bummer, do they not have SuperSpec flat or some other line they can tint to your color though? Although you'd be rolling the dice if blending into or touching up existing Ben flat. And I doubt they make SuperSpec in anything smaller than a gallon so there's that.
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Jun 30, 2022 18:47
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Final Blog Entry posted:Bummer, do they not have SuperSpec flat or some other line they can tint to your color though? Although you'd be rolling the dice if blending into or touching up existing Ben flat. And I doubt they make SuperSpec in anything smaller than a gallon so there's that. The original paint used was Super Hide Zero VOC, but I didn't want to get that because you could only get it in gallons here is the other waterborne one which can be tinted https://store.benjaminmoore.com/storefront/us/en/coating/interior-paints/benjamin-moore/waterborne-ceiling-paint/p/0508 I'm just going to see if the hardware store can find something similar to the ben base 1 flat in another paint. but honestly this is a small touchup and if I have to leave it as it it's fine. is there anyway to know if another paint brand has the same base as the ben base 1 flat? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 30, 2022 |
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Jun 30, 2022 19:00
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actionjackson posted:is there anyway to know if another paint brand has the same base as the ben base 1 flat? Everyone uses different base terminology and the bases just mean what range of colors you can make with it. I think, but am not certain, that base 1 is BM's white/pastel tint base which would be like SW's Extra White base, Behr's Ultrawhite base, etc. If you have another company try to make it for you they'll just use whichever base in their lineup that is called for to make the color.
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Jun 30, 2022 19:53
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I've been doing some touch-up work around the house. This means taking down shelves, TV mounts, coat hanger hooks and stuff like that. In some cases, the stuff attached to the wall has pulled paint off the wall. It was easy enough to use some joint compound to fill those spots and get them ready for paint. How can I stop this stuff from sticking when I hang it back up? Latex paint takes a pretty long time to fully cure, so I don't want to wait for that to happen. I have thought about putting some paraffin wax on the back of the objects going back on the wall. Any better ideas? Also, is the joint compound that you mix yourself a big upgrade from the mayonnaise-consistency premixed stuff that is pink in the bucket and turns white when it dries? I have not had great luck with that stuff. It sands too easily and has been a pain in rear end to get good results with. Is the 50-lb bag stuff any better in this regard? I've also tried using Bondo. It sets up FAST but it stinks and is super duper hard to sand. It seems it is only good for filling in big damage to just below the surface and then using something else to get level with the rest of the wall. I've tried using a Sureform (cheese grater), but it is tough to use that on interior walls without scratching the poo poo out of the good part of the wall.
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Jun 30, 2022 23:31
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You could cut wax paper or parchment paper to match the footprint of what you're hanging on the wall and affix it in between the item and the wall when you hang it back up. A wax or something like that would probably work but would stain the paint and may want to bleed back through or cause adhesion issues next time you repaint unless you oil prime the spot.
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Jun 30, 2022 23:46
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Parchment paper sounds like a good idea. It would be great if I could find some that is only slick on one side so I could stick my backing piece onto the item to be hung on the wall with some spray adhesive.
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Jul 1, 2022 00:00
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PBCrunch posted:Also, is the joint compound that you mix yourself a big upgrade from the mayonnaise-consistency premixed stuff that is pink in the bucket and turns white when it dries? I have not had great luck with that stuff. It sands too easily and has been a pain in rear end to get good results with. Is the 50-lb bag stuff any better in this regard? It's not a huge improvement in finish, except that it dries faster and lets you get more coats on in a day. I had way more luck with the premix once I started thinning it. Even out of a fresh bucket, it's way too thick to get a good finish on. If I'm doing a ton of work I'll add a good bit of water to a bucketful before I start, or if I'm just doing a little I'll thin it out on a hawk. Watch this guy and see what he ends up with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4sEIDlBLVM&t=1130s. I have found the buckets I get from home depot need even more water than he recommends to get the consistency he gets. edit: Well poo poo, not sure how to link. Jump to 18:30.
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Jul 1, 2022 00:36
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Thanks, but I mean dry joint compound vs this stuff. I stole some of my wife's regular two-sided parchment paper from the kitchen. I put some thin double-stick tape on the back of the coat hanger hook board and the parchment paper stuck to that tape well enough for it to stay in place while I screwed the board back onto the wall. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Jul 1, 2022 |
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Jul 1, 2022 15:54
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would surfectant leeching on bathroom paint be more likely to show up if you took a cold shower? that seems to have happened with me. I looked it up and it said clean with soapy water and then rinse. you can also take a hot shower which will help get the surfectant out, then wipe with a dry cloth. I know it's not an issue with the paint or anything else, but there was one area that just randomly showed up by my mirror even though I hadn't even touched it, and I wondered what caused it. Usually I only see this with finger streaks from touching the wall after showering, and they come up right away when cleaned like above.
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Jul 4, 2022 01:29
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alright this is weird, I tried washing a larger area, and whever I wash it leaves behind the different color. I've tried washing with soapy water, then rinsing with regular water, then wiping down, or the same but not wiping down, or just rinsing and leaving to dry, it all has the same result. I have not noticed this before. Any thoughts? the SW article said I might need to wash several times, but it just seems weird. Is it possible that by washing with regular water, it's leaving the film because it's a humid environment? So I need to the the soapy clean several times to remove the surfectants that resulted from the rinse?
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Jul 4, 2022 20:46
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Final Blog Entry posted:With multiple existing coats that are in bad shape, the best bet by far would be to have someone grind it down to bare concrete. Around here that runs around $1-2/sqft. Or you may be able to rent a grinder and do it yourself. If that's not in the cards then pressure wash the poo poo out of it to get any loose and peeling paint off. Scrape any remaining questionable areas to make sure the remaining paint is as sound as possible. Compatibility comes in to play with different floor coatings, and not knowing what's down there now I'd prime it, I've heard good things about this Rustoleum primer. Then go to your hardware or paint store of choice and get their best water-based enamel for concrete floors. Don't go epoxy on a patio, they aren't UV stable and will chalk and fade quickly with direct sun. Leperflesh posted:You can rent a sandblaster and media blast the paint off maybe. Also consider chemical strippers, I'd go with one of the citrus-based ones on the premise that even if I was really careful with disposal of stripped paint I'd still be potentially creating toxic runoff with a more toxic paint stripper. hey thanks for the advice guys. after reading your posts, i tried chemicals but it's way too much work and creates lots of muck. also looked into concrete grinding but i don't have a proper dust control setup to do it myself, and the contractors here are expensive. however, i found a company that does dustless blasting, they're coming out to look at it today, the guy suggests glass media. his price is reasonable so hopefully i've found a solution to get the surface back to bare concrete! that rustoleum primer is really hard to find too, must mean it's the good stuff 
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Aug 10, 2022 17:23
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DELETE CASCADE posted:hey thanks for the advice guys. after reading your posts, i tried chemicals but it's way too much work and creates lots of muck. also looked into concrete grinding but i don't have a proper dust control setup to do it myself, and the contractors here are expensive. however, i found a company that does dustless blasting, they're coming out to look at it today, the guy suggests glass media. his price is reasonable so hopefully i've found a solution to get the surface back to bare concrete! that rustoleum primer is really hard to find too, must mean it's the good stuff Cool, mind sharing what they quote you and the sqaure footage? I always like having some data points on that kind of stuff. What kind of surface profile does the concrete have under those coatings? Only concern I would have with bead blasting vs grinding is that if it's really smooth troweled concrete the blasting won't do anything to profile the concrete (at least I don't think so) while grinding would. Ideally to coat concrete you want it to feel about like 120 grit sandpaper, if it's too smooth and tight you may not get adequate adhesion.
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Aug 10, 2022 19:49
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I’ve DIY painted a ton over the past 10 years but never been able to get what I would consider to be a professional finish on interior wall and trim paint like I usually see in high end homes. I’ve used mostly Behr’s high end and it’s looked *okay*. I used Ben Moore Aura on the exterior of the last house and it looked much nicer and was easier to work with so I think I finally understand the benefit of using high quality paint. So I know it has a lot to do with paint selection, brush/roller selection and of course prep. But I’m facing the reality that I’ll probably end up painting the entire interior of our new house I’m hoping to get some recommendations for paint brand, product line, sheen, brush and roller brand and type etc. that a pro would use on a high end job where materials cost isn’t really an issue. Is it just as simple as using Ben Moore Aura in eggshell for walls, Aura satin for trim and Waterbourne flat for ceiling? What about brush and roller brand and nap presuming these walls are all flat/no texture?
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Aug 17, 2022 23:36
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The feedback I get from painters on interior Aura is that it's only worth the price for covering with really dark or bright colors and for most applications they get better results with the Regal Select. If going with Ben Moore, their Advance is what you want for the trim. It will self level better and have a harder finish than a wall paint like Aura or Regal Select. For another option I like SW Duration Home (preferably matte finish) for interior walls and their Emerald Urethane for trim. For painting smooth walls I would use a 3/8" nap of what ever type is specified on the manufacturers Product Data Sheet. They'll usually specify if best results are with a woven or knitted nap and what type of material- polyester, nylon/polyester blend, microfiber, etc. Smooth walls are a pain, especially if you get a lot of light in the house. Finish the walls off with long stokes ceiling to floor keeping even pressure on the nap. Use an extension pole so you can make long even rolls rather than getting up on a ladder with a roller in your hand. The good trim enamels like Advance and Emerald Urethane are made to self level very well. Don't overwork them trying to get all the brush marks out, you'll just make the brush marks dry into it. Long even brush strokes and keep moving. The drawback to self leveling paints is a tendency to sag and run if you get it on too heavy so don't glob it on trying to one-coat it.
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Aug 18, 2022 00:06
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stupid puma posted:I’ve DIY painted a ton over the past 10 years but never been able to get what I would consider to be a professional finish on interior wall and trim paint like I usually see in high end homes. I’ve used mostly Behr’s high end and it’s looked *okay*. I used Ben Moore Aura on the exterior of the last house and it looked much nicer and was easier to work with so I think I finally understand the benefit of using high quality paint. It's *all* in the prep. My usual process is: * Spackle everything * Sand * Repeat both until I'm happy with the surface * Clean with TSP * Prime * Spackle + sand anything that showed up now that the surface is consistent * Prime again if spackling was done * Paint Prep time is easily 2-3x longer then actual painting time. No product you buy is going to cover up any flaws left over from the prepping.
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Aug 18, 2022 00:09
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Aura bath and spa matte seems awesome, I just used it to repaint our bathroom. Too soon to say on longevity, but matte finish in the the bathroom is nice looking. We used regal select for the rest of the house and it’s great. Advance looks so much crisper on trim, and feels so much more suited for cabins and furniture. Only problem I have with Benjamin Moore is we didn’t realize the metal cans would rust, and ruined a bunch of paint we bought 5 years ago.
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Aug 18, 2022 13:05
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Final Blog Entry posted:The feedback I get from painters on interior Aura is that it's only worth the price for covering with really dark or bright colors and for most applications they get better results with the Regal Select. If going with Ben Moore, their Advance is what you want for the trim. It will self level better and have a harder finish than a wall paint like Aura or Regal Select. Super helpful devicenull posted:It's *all* in the prep. My usual process is: Are you sanding+cleaning+priming the whole wall or just where you initially patched? Are you guys adding anything to your paint like Floetrol for roller and brush application?
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Aug 19, 2022 00:54
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I don't add anything unless is the paint is a little too thick and I need to make it more workable, and then I just use a touch of water. I suppose a bit of floetrol might help the paint lay down on the smooth walls, but not sure if you'd really see any difference.
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Aug 19, 2022 02:27
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