|
Raluek posted:id say satin black to match the bedliner, or gloss white to match the roof. leaning towards black to match the blacked out doorhandles, and so that the tailgate lettering stands out more, but it would be a little strange to have the roof be the only white on it. also, you still have the chrome grilles, with the other stuff black/blue? No chrome except the wiper arms, (polished aluminum headlight doors) and what's not painted on the lettering/script. I plan on fabbing up the door handles so that they're chrome. I'm OK with it only having a white roof, so I'm leaning towards black. I'm also thinking about picking up another grill at the yard, and painting it flat black. May paint the spare headlight doors satin black or white as well. We can accessorize! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Apr 9, 2023 |
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 16:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:47 |
|
|
I'm also voting for white. Classic work trucks had white bumpers instead of chrome, it matches the white lid, and your truck doesn't have a load of chrome which puts it in work truck territory.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 17:34
|
|
|
Now I'm leaning towards white. Got the carpet in. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 23:44
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Now I'm leaning towards white. It looks fantastic. I love the die like men decal. And another vote for white bumpers. There needs to be a "The driver is the crumple zone" decal
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 23:57
|
|
|
joat mon posted:It looks fantastic. I love the die like men decal. this but crumple zone 
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2023 03:27
|
|
|
"My crumple zone is legs?" How droll. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Apr 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2023 04:04
|
|
|
In case anyone was wondering about the tatty interior paint: it was another $1200 to paint the jambs. I have the left-over paint and a small airbrush. I'm leaving the door panels blue because a) the paint is solid/good; and b) a sorta homage to the blue '62 van that gave so much of itself (bed, front corners, about six other patch panels) to make this work. The upper doors will be rattlecanned black (they already are...) and the rest of the doors will be sprayed orange. Tomorrow: leaf springs. At least the fronts. At the risk of being pedantic, I may post a summary/take-away of this jproject that, hopefully, will be helpful to anyone interested in old-vehicle necromancy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2023 01:09
|
|
|
Rebuilt the brakes last week: rears were nasty, so completely redone  Fronts were actually fine. I removed & lubed up the adjuster screw, and replaced one missing actuator cable, but left them alone otherwise. Shoes were perfect.  Painted the drums...   ...during which I uncovered an ugly problem. On the right, there, is the right front drum, which has the spindle fastened to it by staking the wheel studs through the hub & the drum to make them a single unit. Now, I don't know if this is an issue with other, older cars, but the left-front drum separated easily from the hub. This is the same (and only) drum that has oddly loose studs - at least one will spin beyond a certain amount of tightening. What I learned is that, at least on the Econolines, that the studs can wear and the splined ends work loose, and eventually wallow out the holes through the spindle. Some vintage Ford posters reported that, if they wallow enough, so that all 5 come loose, that the studs will pull through the spindle & yeet off with the wheel & brake drum. Losing a drum on a single-reservoir brake system is, in a word, very bad: your steering is compromised & now you have zero brakes. And no crash protection whatsoever, barring the intervention of Ganesha (may he be praised enthusiastically). So far, it's just the one stud that's bad, but I am finding no available spindles for drum brakes. Anywhere. At all. I'm in no hurry to convert this to disc brakes - while disc hubs are certainly available, the rig is $2500 and I am not in the mood to start dicking around with the king pins & backing plates. Added front hubs to the salvage yard shopping list. Finally got the leaf springs in (spring out)  (spring in)  Old & new  ...and found that the rear spring clips (the U-shaped clamps) were waaaay too big; I was able to reinstall three of the old ones so I could move it around, but it wasn't driveable. Talking with Eaton revealed that their spec sheets show a '65 Econoline with a 9" rear and 3" axle tubes. I have a 7" rear & 2-1/2" tubes. Per Eaton the last year for this configuration was...1964. I'm beginning to believe that this is a '64 and that someone screwed up the year during a change in ownership & no one picked it up. It's also possible they had '64 axles stocked up at the Lorain plant, and that they just used them up on the first '65s to be built, but my HVAC is also '64, and I don't think the big hole in the floor mine has, was used for the '65 HVAC box, which was mounted on the inside of the nose, not on the floor. Hmmm. While waiting for the proper clips from Detroit, I painted the rear bumper    You guys were right with white. Did the front, to install tomorrow  It rained most of last week. On Friday, I noticed that the windows were all fogged up. The glass installers never sealed the gaskets. All four windows leak.    It doesn't look so bad, but imagine those trickles running for three days and nights. The carpet's really wet in areas. This was some real amateur-hour poo poo by the glass installer. Specifically asked if they had the proper sealants, which are required on these gaskets: thin butyl for the metal side, silicone for the glass side. They said sure, of course...I raised hell, and it's going back in tomorrow. Was supposed to be yesterday...but the spring clips only came in this morning. So I'll throw the bumper on & drive it up to Maple Shade. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:56 on May 3, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2023 05:13
|
|
|
I just got a couple of studs for rear drums for a rear drive import (the passenger side is left hand thread do t ask). Instead of trying to track down an out of production stud from Japan I just ordered a couple of in stock studs for cheap from advance. Some of them were too big even though matching the stud diameter pattern (I do t know of this makes sense)?. So if it is 1.25 stud by whatever just put that in at advance and buy the 3-4 that come up as singles. If one is now bigger and fits the bored out spindle, buy a set of those for $2 each
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2023 05:21
|
|
|
I understand perfectly what you're saying, and agree that this would be the most elegant solution, but have no idea how to find larger studs (or at least, larger-diameter splined ends) that would fit the corresponding holes in the hub. Not even sure how to buy an assortment. If I can't score a solid hub from the yard, the only other solution that occurs to me is to weld-fill the perimeter of the wallowed holes & drill them back out to spec. I'd build a jig out of some material (maybe wood) to pilot the hole in the right spot. Or I may take the hub & loose studs down to Fazzio's and see if they can fill & machine it. I'd rather have at least one spare on hand, though, in case they pork it. My '65 Fury had left-hand threads on the driver's side, because engineers determined that the lug nuts can't work loose if forward rotation brings force counter-clockwise. The end of each stud was stamped with an "L". Studebaker played this joke too. Every time I took it in to Pennsylvania state inspection, I had to almost literally hand-hold the tech & show him this antediluvean feature on my Mayflower, lest he wipe out my drums. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:53 on May 3, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2023 05:33
|
|
|
White looks incredible. Could they re-machine 36° offset i.e. between the current stud holes? Would that be stronger?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2023 13:52
|
|
|
Hell yeah those white bumpers POP in the best way.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2023 18:17
|
|
|
tinned owl posted:White looks incredible. Man, I don't know; they're pretty small; there's not a lot to work with. Each hole is also counter-sunk on the back side. Not sure that they're necessary for clearing brake hardware or something.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2023 02:02
|
|
|
Just realised that access hole for adjusting the shoes would cause a minor issue with that idea
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2023 07:53
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Hell yeah those white bumpers POP in the best way. 100%. Those look great.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2023 11:48
|
|
|
Thread necromancy time! Right before Memorial Day, I hit the yard and was able to score two good, solid drums, with perfect studs and (bonus!) extremely meaty swept areas (as well as an assortment of smaller bits); I was going for a drag link and a spare steering box or three, but forgot the giant fuckoff 1-1/4" box wrench required to loosen the Pitman arm. So I'll be going back.  chased the threads:  Local auto parts store still has a brake lathe!  One bonus bit: a fairly rare, wet-bath air cleaner. I'd noticed this one since my first trip and finally decided to snag it. https://i.imgur.com/l9lmuyz.mp4 It's been painted mellow yellow and is currently on my bench. (you can see it as I picked it, under the brake drum shot above) The truck? What truck? Oh, the one that's been at the glass shop for a month as of today! Yes, I took it back at the end of May for the third time, for the windshield leaks. The other three - whatever they did, it worked, but on the way home from the Wildwood car show... (shameless plug):  ...on Mother's Day weekend, the windshield was leaking in the rain. The delay, it turns out, is because they finally realized their mistake - and had to order a new windshield gasket. Now, there's only a couple of places that have them, and they're like $150.00 and can take forever to get, if not back-ordered. Since I originally paid $350 to have all of the glass fitted, they are definitely losing money. Last I heard, it should be ready tomorrow. We shall see. Fun part is, the little group 35 battery went dead after sitting for a few weeks, so there's a good chance that they'll have to jump it...which could be fun because the battery is not easily accessible (being under the bolted-down seat & all) and they are unlikely to know that I have a lugged 50A breaker bolted to the engine lift loop that is dreadfully convenient for jumping so long as you don't mind having all of those amps laying across your lap+junk as you try to revive it. I may get a call.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2023 05:43
|
|
|
Got the truck back...and there's a leak at the driver's side quarter window. gently caress these guys. I'll try to seal it off with a little silicone, but just in case, am ordering new gaskets and may have to take it to another glass shop to get it done correctly. Doing drums & the drag link today. Three hundred bucks for a drag link, because they're vehicle-specific. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 16:04
|
|
|
fun turn of events - that sale I'm working at has 63 van!   I need to get more pics of it, but its really, REALLY clean - its sitting on some BMW rims that actually look pretty awesome on it - not usually my thing, but it looks pretty cool. - there's not much time to take photos of stuff when I'm there, but they are offering this for around 4k but its highly negotiable. the engines got a bunch of hot rod parts and it comes with a ton of extra engine parts, I think its the 250. it had some shag carpet inside that we ripped out to find a perfectly clean van - theres also some 70s wood paneling inside that is pretty nasty that has to go, but it wouldn't take much to get this going. If I didn't have any cars, I'd be all over it. they cut a sunroof in to it, and theres a vent, they also filled in the little triangular window right behind the door - again, not my thing, but its actually kinda cool lookin. I'll grab more photos in the coming week
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 02:49
|
|
|
Oh man, that's clean. I hate California. I had a '66 configured just like this, back in '82. Goddamn, look at the chrome on that bumper. I'd also like to see how they rigged that tow hitch; I would love one Looking forward to more pictures! *** The wheel bearings did not fit. Inner holes were too big. Called Eckler's; they had sent bearings for '67-72  They have none for the '61-'67 E100. Thanks a ton, guys. I'm screwed because I pressed in the races to get the drums turned. Preparing to order more (from Dennis Carpenter) after I verify that they'll fit my knuckles/axle. Installed the (non-adjustable) drag link between the Pitman arm and the left knuckle, and now my steering wheel's off about 20-degrees to the right. Either the Pitman arm is off a tooth, or the tie rod ends need adjusting. The old link was pretty FUBAR, was probably installed at the factory, so the tie rod ends were probably adjusted to compensate for the slop that developed over the past half-century. Steering is tighter, though. Yay! I then turned to replacing the bad alternator on the '05 Cayenne I just acquired. I had no idea that German engineers were insane enough to water-cool an alternator, but here we are, with a broken plastic hose flange that will cost $52 to replace from a Porsche dealer in Atlanta. Makes the Econoline issues seem downright quaint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 03:09
|
|
|
Cadillac pulled the water cooled alternator bit for a few years on some Northstars. Though their engine bays are tight enough that you're pulling the intake manifold to get to, uh, anything. They used a lot of lube and shoehorns to get that fucker in there, it's like CSB's F550.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 08:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:47 |
|
|
What's with that quick change rear axle?
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 16:38
|
|
