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PainterofCrap posted:When they arrive, gauges for temp, oil pressure & amps. Oil change, fluids, the rest of the exhaust. Rebuild the driver's seat. i would recommend against an ammeter, those things are scary. are you stuck on originality? a voltmeter might be just as useful, and a lot less likely to catch things on fire
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Aug 11, 2021 04:53
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Your threads are awesome--bookmarked.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:16
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Raluek posted:i would recommend against an ammeter, those things are scary. are you stuck on originality? a voltmeter might be just as useful, and a lot less likely to catch things on fire The gauges - at least the temp & oil pressure - are a requirement on any of my vehicles, especially these old bastards. Stock on these is a pair of idiot lights (which don't work, probably because the wires were disconnected from the engine). I may mod the instrument panel from the yard to fit these gauges in. If the ammeter involves routing the current main through it, I am not installing it; however, it appears to have a really thin wire, so I'm assuming for now that it operates like a glorified voltmeter. I'll probably fuse it with at least a 10-A glass inline, though. Maybe 5-A if the wire's really thin. I'm doing so many different things to this beast and in random order, I forgot to add that I found a yard with at least five Econolines! I did my call-around - and about 15-yards in, I learned: - No one in Phila has the real estate to hold on to old iron. - Most of these things were used up & crushed. On call fifteen to a yard I never heard of in Vineland, I finally hit paydirt on, "do you know where I can find any?" & the guy said, "Sure, Myers has what you need." Never heard of Myers Auto Salvage in Winslow Twp. I called 'em up, and they said that they had several vans and one pickup...so, in the middle of a weekday, I foolishly went on a recon. I say foolish, because I didn't dress appropriately - wore shorts - and my legs got torn up but good by blackberry bushes. Fortunately few mosquitoes, and no ticks.    I scored a driver's seat (for the frame / mounting brackets); door panels! another instrument cluster with speedo (probably trashed) & wiring harness. and two extremely rare defroster vents - these are made out of some type of compressed cardboard; stock ones go for at least $150 apiece, and the reproduction ABS ones are $250/set (it would be nice...). I'll probably coat these with epoxy or something, because they are fragile AF. Sadly, no doghouse panels, which is what I was really going for. One was entirely gone (removed); two were rustier than mine, and the remaining three were designed for the 300 motor, and have a large hump in the back that it would be far more difficult to fab up than what I have.  I am coming back for those FORD letters and the front bumper & brackets. Probably also the window regulators, a number of fasteners in the door, and maybe some spare door glass. Thinking also, down the road, about cutting out floor sections to repair the truck bed, as well as a fender well. I'd need a robust battery-powered angle grinder... The pickup is kept by the owner's house. He wants $2500 for it. I didn't check it out; I will probably find everything I need in the six vans that are here. The driver's seat was incredibly disgusting after 2-3 decades of weather exposure, but it had the parts I needed: the seat tracks: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 17:04
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Awesome - go back and get as much as you can now! I love junkyard finds - and junkyard pics!
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Aug 11, 2021 18:06
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PainterofCrap posted:If the ammeter involves routing the current main through it, I am not installing it; however, it appears to have a really thin wire, so I'm assuming for now that it operates like a glorified voltmeter. I'll probably fuse it with at least a 10-A glass inline, though. Maybe 5-A if the wire's really thin. It (hopefully) also has a current shunt that gets installed in a more sane place, in which case the gauge itself would just be a voltmeter calibrated to read the voltage drop on that shunt and report that in terms of amperage. But the factory ammeter in my Opel GT is an integral junction for the entire goddamn harness 
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Aug 11, 2021 18:07
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PainterofCrap posted:If the ammeter involves routing the current main through it, I am not installing it; however, it appears to have a really thin wire, so I'm assuming for now that it operates like a glorified voltmeter. I'll probably fuse it with at least a 10-A glass inline, though. Maybe 5-A if the wire's really thin. Any ammeter that age most certainly requires running the full alternator (generator?) power through the gauge. The thin wire may be because the stock electrical system was woefully inadequate. ANY alternator upgrade will likely fry an old ammeter. That said, you can rig them up to use a shunt. Ammeters are a very useful gauge with old electrical systems so that might be an option for you. …It would be a lot easier to just switch to a voltmeter.
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Aug 11, 2021 18:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:It (hopefully) also has a current shunt that gets installed in a more sane place, in which case the gauge itself would just be a voltmeter calibrated to read the voltage drop on that shunt and report that in terms of amperage. They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between. The other two gauges look...adequate: electric oil pressure & temp (with the senders), and they appear to be correctly threaded. So I may just live without the volts for awhile, though I do need to connect up my meter and be certain the alternator actually works. I also need a new battery since this one was mistreated & FUBAR; plus I want to try & find one that'll actually fit inside the battery box. It's too damned hot & humid today to do anything. The primer I applied yesterday hasn't cured fully yet, which is not surprising since we hit 104 and 80% humidity today. Welcome to Philadelphia in August. In addition to the gauges, the insulation mat, spline extenders for the window cranks, and a West Coast- style mirror arrived, along with the (wrong) cage nuts. I am accumulating a poo poo-ton of parts & my wife is overjoyed. Still waiting on the window seals & fuzzies, a bag of 9/16"-24 cage nuts, and some electrical connectors. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 23:44
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Holy poo poo 80% humidity? Miserable. Nice score on the junkyard.
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Aug 12, 2021 02:03
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Any 42 buicks or chevys in that yard? Progress is admirable, and I am getting flashbacks to working on my buddys 68 chevy van with that doghouse affair. What kind of sound deadener are you using? I'd also suggest some kind of heat insulation, I remember those doghouses being miserably hot - my buddys van was not so friendly to us bigger, wider gents, in the sense that you kinda lopped over it while trying to find a comfy place to be, I remember one time on a longer drive - it was our band van - that I didn't realize how much heat was being transmitted to my right thigh wile driving the thing, and it was one of those gradual "holy poo poo what is this pain im feeling while driving a van with several dudes and 100s of pounds of gear inside AHHHHHH" kind of moments
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Aug 12, 2021 08:29
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PainterofCrap posted:They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between. if you install it the way i understand you to mean - find some random wire that's on switched ignition, cut it, and install to both sides of gauge - it probably won't do what you expect. that would measure the current traveling through that one wire, but wouldn't tell you about the rest of the electrical system. if e.g. the generator current goes straight to the starter solenoid and not through your gauge wire, it won't be measured, for example. same with the starter current, which i really hope doesn't enter the cabin through your little wire. thats why ammeters have the whole vehicle's harness pass through it, more or less. the shunt types can be less hazardous, but that only really moves the problem, imo. im def on team voltmeter out of curiosity, what kit is it? i havent found an electric-sender kit that i like yet.
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Aug 12, 2021 09:42
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Raluek posted:if you install it the way i understand you to mean - find some random wire that's on switched ignition, cut it, and install to both sides of gauge - it probably won't do what you expect. that would measure the current traveling through that one wire, but wouldn't tell you about the rest of the electrical system... It's a generic cheapo out of China, three gauges for $40; just want to get it so I get oil pressure & temp lines set-up & working properly; may upgrade to something better later. I figured it wouldn't give me accurate charge/discharge, but at the very least, give me the current voltage through a constant hot...I can test the alternator with a meter. The instrument cluster has fuel & temp gauges only, the ALT is an idiot light. The only high current coming in is for the headlights. The main for the starter is tied to a relay in the engine compartment.
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Aug 12, 2021 14:25
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Voltmeters are fine, you can still judge the health of a system with one. Instead of looking for +/- amps, you're looking for 14V vs not 14V. Not quite as obvious if something has gone wrong, but better than nothing. I feed mine on the same 12V switched that powers the rest of the gauge cluster. Just needs 12V and ground after all.
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Aug 12, 2021 14:47
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yeah if it's a voltmeter, you'd ground one terminal and hook the other terminal to some switched hot (piggyback off of a fuse, or something). you wouldnt cut a wire and splice the gauge in the middle of the wire. still interested to know what gauge set that is. most of the cheap ones ive seen have had mechanical oil pressure and water temp. some of them cost that much just for each sender!
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Aug 13, 2021 10:19
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Sorry to disappoint, but they don't have a name on them anywhere. They are electronic - I've seen what happens when a 'wet' oil sender tube leaks in the cabin, ain't no fun.  I may try to mount the gauges...but first, will test the temp gauge (top right) & leave it be if it works.    The paint/rust treatment finally cured. Took four days. I'll be buying a tiny battery - a group 51, which is 9"x6" - it's the largest I can find that'll fit in there. If it's not too obscenely hot today, I'll wirewheel and treat the battery box top and the doghouse panels. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 14:53
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And when are you going to put your Christmas basket away? Also if you're not aware, whisky and cherry 7up is a dirtbags old fashioned. Twist an orange in it if you're fancy.
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Aug 13, 2021 16:48
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Today, the first day under ninety degrees and sub-50% humidity in a while, we were able to" Change the engine and transmission oil; Install the exhaust system     Wirewheel and prime the doghouse panels:    and just happen to notice that the front U-joint was moving around in the yoke a bit due to a missing 7/16-24 nut...  wonder how long it was rolling around like that. The gear oil in the transmission was super-gloppy and seemed to have some water in it. The drain plug magnet only had some cream o' metal on it, no chunks; Even in the heat, I probably should have put a propane torch on it, but 2-1/2 hours draining was probably enough. The output seal is probably shot anyway, based on the crud coating everything in its arc. The same for the differential input seal... Also fabbed up some cage nuts that snap into the floor plan for the doghouse bolts. I may be able to get the insulation matting on and the doghouse installed this week. More tomorrow if the weather holds.
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Aug 15, 2021 03:56
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The safe way to do an ammeter is with an inductive loop sensor, you can get very nice ones from LEM or cheap ones from ebay with several output type options, ie voltage or even automotive rated canbus output from lem.
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Aug 15, 2021 05:29
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Any thoughts on applying new bondo over older bondo once it's been roughed up a bit? Sunday: Further wirewheeling and cleaning up of the interior has revealed a series of small dents in the nose panel...which solves the mystery of the heavy layer of nose panel bondo. I'm not sure it'll ever get a full cosmetic restoration; I'll know more once I finally get it mechanically sorted and (hopefully) road-reliable. I'll absolutely have to weld patch panels in the rockers because bondo simply will not hold down there, and am drifting towards stripping and rhino-lining the cheesed-out bed, throwing a solid sheet of 16-ga on it, screwing it down with stainless screws, sealing the perimeter, and rhino-lining that. My efforts here are all focused on doing proper mechanical repairs, solid work, no skimping...but there are already three screwed-down patch panels in the cab, so I'm not opposed to pop-riveting in a couple small ones where needed in that area; if I do go full ham on it someday, this'll all be reversible...so I'm not opposed to bondo over solid metal.  On Saturday, fabbed in a fuel hard-line, replaced the mechanical fuel pump, tested it, then plumbed it to the carb.   The color and odor of the fuel that was caught in a bottle during a test of the mechanical fuel pump means I'll likely pull the tank and drain it. Also cleaned out the pumpkin and replaced the oil. Looked good inside, though the oil was terrible black. To my utter shock, the tag was still on it, and it read 3.55, which is a damned sight better than the factory tag of 4.4  And found another problem: whatever hack installed the traveler brake line from the master to the rear axle and ran it through the bulkhead next to one of the shifting rods, which it is rubbing against, also kinked the line riiiggght where it screws into the distribution block on the axle, so now it looks like I'll be replacing the entire thing. Didn't do much Monday; it wasn't too hot, but between my job and house & yard work that could be deferred no longer (mostly due to the heat) I was bushed. Did vacuum out the cab after wirewheeling it yesterday, and spent some time taking & reorganizing stock and supplies- got eight feet of heater hose and another fuel filter to mount back by the tank rather than in the engine compartment. I need to test the sending unit anyway. Would also like to know if the 160-lb counterweight is still above the tank. I need to make a list of all the crap that I've had to correct or repair. For a very simple vehicle, there is an awesome amount of hosed-up poo poo. I haven't even gotten to the door mechanicals yet. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 14:55
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At least new brake line won't be that difficult to run and the old stuff was probably shot anyway. All the fluid I ran a couple of years ago was already deep red on the Galaxie. If you're not trying to get a perfect finish I'd say bondo on bondo all day. Te worst case is the old stuff had picked up moisture and is rotting the metal, and that ship has sailed now. I'd hit it with a layer of epoxy primer first because I love it and I've never had adhesion issues under or on top of it. Also I'd clean and coat the bed with rust encapsulator. I wouldn't want dirt and moisture getting between the layers. I enjoy your practicality on this project.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:31
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You are making some nice progress on this!PainterofCrap posted:They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between. You seem to be confusing ammeters and voltmeters a bit here. The gauge you have there is a voltmeter. Voltmeters don't go in-line. You just need to give it a 12V ignition-live supply and a good ground connection. It should read 0 with the key off, then 12.7 volts with the key on and engine off, drop a bit while you crank the engine (but not too far if your battery is good) and then kick up to 14.5 or so once the engine is running and the alternator is doing its thing. Only ammeters go in-line (either directly or via a big shunt). I really wouldn't bother with one - a voltmeter gives you all you need to know! PainterofCrap posted:Any thoughts on applying new bondo over older bondo once it's been roughed up a bit? Rough it up really well (like 40 grit or something) and go for it. You're not looking for concourse here! If you go a second layer over smoother old bondo (eg 240/400 grit) it sometimes tends to crack off slightly in my experience.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:31
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Tomarse posted:You are making some nice progress on this! Yeah I was. Simple voltmeter should be fine. Incidentally, the battery that came with it seems to be holding fine: it was at 12.6V after sitting for two weeks. I have to get a new battery (and figure out a hold-down; probably a strap); the only ones currently available that will fit in the box (9" x 6") are Group 35 & 51. Probably getting a 35 from NAPA. Tomarse posted:Rough it up really well (like 40 grit or something) and go for it. You're not looking for concourse here! StormDrain posted:If you're not trying to get a perfect finish I'd say bondo on bondo all day. Te worst case is the old stuff had picked up moisture and is rotting the metal, and that ship has sailed now. I'd hit it with a layer of epoxy primer first because I love it and I've never had adhesion issues under or on top of it. Thank you! - I am aware of moisture in the bondo, which was one of the reasons I painted it over immediately after grinding it down. I really suck at finish bodywork so I may throw it (and $$$) at someone to get it paint-prepped after all of the metalwork is done.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:15
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This week's developments: Pulled the gas tank. Although the factory manual swears that there's a drain plug, there wasn't. The fill inlet is located half-way down the side of the tank, which resulted in me being doused with a few quarts of what used to be gasoline after pulling the straps.  I moved fairly smartly away and mentally sited all possible ignition sources. Fortunately, the sun was strong and there was a slight breeze. I wound up naked at my own back door, hammering furiously because my wife locked it. We never, ever lock it. Now, she locks it. To her credit, she never asked why her husband was naked and reeking of turpentine. God but it was rank. Probably was a good idea to drain it...  The tank itself was in excellent shape.  After a quick shower and changing into something a little less combustible, I hooked up an ohmmeter and slowly flipped the tank over & back a few times to get the sending arm to sweep. The values changed quite a bit, so I left it be...I can replace it while installed - it's on the front face - so we'll see how the thing works when hooked up to a gauge. I was very happy to see the counterweight is still installed:  Replaced all of the rubber bits and reinstalled the tank. Cut off that hanging bit, which was a remnant of a trailer hitch bracket Now would probably be a good time to grind all of the rusty bits off of the frame rot over the axle. The tank is empty and dry. Picked up some hardware at the speed shop to re-do the throttle linkage. Had to order a threaded rod, because no one (not even my local Fastenal) had 1/4"-28 fine threaded rod. Today am also working on replacing the heater hose...these are the longest hoses I've ever installed - one is 7'6" and the other is just under 7' long.  I had picked up ten feet of 5/8" hose, but after installing the first run, it was clearly not enough. The heater core is right up front; the 2-hoses have to travel back through 2-bulkheads, then turn up & loop against the passenger-side doghouse (where it is clamped) then loop over across the engine to the water pump.  While I'm waiting for the throttle rod, I'll be working on the instrument cluster to see if we can get all of the lights going & check the condition of the original gauges. I'm pretty sure that all of the remaining loose wires hanging under the dash are all connections to the instrument cluster. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 21, 2021 15:56
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Today: took advantage of having a dry tank and no gas to ignite, to beat the poo poo out of the rusted spot on the frame with the wirewheel, followed by a cutting disc. It looks like water drips through rust holes in the bed and runs down the frame rail, since it's an open-box unibody thing...and apparently, it liked to collect in this spot. After cutting out everything I could reach, it was blown out with compressed air and treated with a spray of rust encapsulator.  At some point - probably when the leaf springs are replaced - I'll get in there, finish cleaning it out, and weld in some plate. Next up was the front doghouse panel. I wasn't going to do this, but the cage nuts need to be replaced in a couple spots, and the panel was held in with sheet--metal screws and caulk. Mostly; due to some more(!) hidden rust. Now, unlike the rear panel, this one is a hell of a lot easier to access to remove; also, the rusted-out bits were along the flange and didn't creep up into the panel itself, so I cut a pair of strips which will be riveted to make a support sandwich. So it was wirewheeled & primed.   ...which will be assembled after a couple coats of paint. It started raining, signalling the end of outdoor work. Pulled the instrument cluster, and confirmed two things: - Every single thing was unplugged except for a couple of bulbs - Somebody tried to deal with a twitchy speedometer by dumping in a thick-ish dinosaur gravy in great quantities, which gummed up the entire mechanism and, for unknown reasons, corroded the hell out of most of the wheels on the odometer drum. It was like molasses. After a thorough cleaning with electronic cleaner and Awesome Orange , the speedometer works normally. I swapped the drum off of the yard unit (for some cosmic reason, it was about the only part on it that wasn't weather-blasted) and gained about sixty thousand miles - from 39,900 to 97,500. It's titled as, "exceeded mechanical limits" so it ain't no thing.  Tomorrow will be more painting, maybe finish fabbing up the front panel. I've ordered new gels for the turn-signal and high-beam indicators. They're faded yellow, for some reason. Tested and confirmed that the temp and fuel gauges both work. The 2" openings in the cluster frame are just slightly too small for the modern gauge housings; I may mod the yard unit frame and install them there. Couldn't get the idiot lights for the current and oil pressure to light. The cluster backlight illumination bulbs also do not light (bulbs themselves tested OK) This week will be working on that as well as the throttle linkage. Once those two are done, it's time to fire it up for a static test to operating temp for the engine, gauges & electric. It's getting there! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 02:36
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In spite of the heat, and then Ida dumping a poo poo-ton of work on me, there has been progress. Rebuilt the speedometer - wound up using the yard unit and transferring the odometer drum and face to it. Note: when you need fasteners to fit where there were teeny-tiny rivets, DuBro makes a full line of teeny-tiny nuts and bolts for R/C aircraft/vehicles. They are far easier to use than rivets, assuming that you can even find 3/32” rivets. Installed a fuel filter, got all of the instrument lights & the dome light working; Installed the gauge suite, they all work & are wired into the dash light circuit New speedo cable Flushed the heater core & confirmed that the heat control actually does stop the flow of coolant & doesn’t leak (bonus!) Filled the coolant. Started up and ran the engine. https://i.imgur.com/zDNeIES.mp4 The gauge suite appears to work normally. Gas gauge / system is not working. Have to confirm continuity at the tank & then replace the sending unit if that ain’t it. Goddamn it’s quiet & smooth…but it’s smokes like a bastard. Oil smoke. While it’s possible that a good Italian tune-up will remedy it, it’s probably the rings. Even if it’s only the valve seals, the rings are probably close behind. Not sure yet how I feel about it. On one hand, this was never intended to be a DD, but a haul vehicle when that is needed. It runs well, and so long as the plugs don’t foul, I can keep dumping oil in it. Eagerly awaiting the consumption rate…. On the other hand, I am not pulling this engine anytime soon, possibly never. On the gripping hand, I’m looking at another $2500 for leaf springs and tires (the springs are $1500 and can wait; the tires cannot) and if I keep it it’s no biggie but if I decide to sell it once it’s mechanically sound, I’d rather not spend another $5000 on it (bed & body) for the next guy. Regardless, it’s getting reassembled, seat fixed, doors/window mechanisms and seals replaced, and tires. Once that’s done I can park it & forget about it and see where the winds take me. I should be able to get $8000-$10K for it by that point. Ran it for about a half-hour. Did not overheat, but holy poo poo, without the doghouse installed, it gets really loving hot in the cabin, even with the doors hanging open. Glad I insulated the panels; should help a lot once I get that all in. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 23:34
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I like that support strategy with the riveted strips. My C10's inner fenderwells, especially the passenger side, have similar rot on the front lip only.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:34
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I'm really enjoying your work on it, so I hope you keep it and continue fixing it up.
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Sep 7, 2021 04:40
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Many times while the Binder was ugly and rusting people asked what the plan was and it was along the lines of "just managing the decline". Getting it reasonably comfortable and capable is plenty. That truck looks fun to drive just based on the geometry.
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Sep 7, 2021 05:09
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StormDrain posted:Many times while the Binder was ugly and rusting people asked what the plan was and it was along the lines of "just managing the decline". Getting it reasonably comfortable and capable is plenty. I am absolutely stealing this.
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Sep 7, 2021 13:57
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Update! Ida hasn't killed me yet! Yay! We are now quite close to the goal of mechanical repair to the point where I can stop for awhile. The floor has been patched. There were five patches, one large one sorta joined to the edge of the reinforced area where the front doghouse panel goes.   I replaced them with one large sheet of 16GA, which did wonders to stiffen the deck.    Also put small patches on a few other spots, then painted the floor and reinstalled the doghouse, and glued the carpet back on   Replaced the tracks on the driver's seat with the refreshed ones from the yard. I drilled mounting holes directly through the seat tubing to mount it - there seem to be different designs depending on the year; mine had a tab welded onto the seat frame that offset the outboard track (like how the inboard track is mounted - on the right side in this picture).  The tab had broken off; re-welding it promised to be a headache that would involve removing everything flammable from the frame, which is a giant pain in the rear end. I can do it, but it's a sucky job, so when I saw how the tracks mounted directly onto the frame on the seat from the '62 that I scored, all I had to do was check the measurements, and it lined up with the bolt locations in the floor. Hell of a lot easier to drill through it with a step bit than all that other nonsense.  But there's always a price. Mounting the driver's seat was its own special hell because the inboard rear bolt is supposed to be dropped down into a cage nut in the doghouse flange at the floor. Which is located in a tiny box canyon made up of the battery box, the doghouse (distance between: three inches) and dead-ended by a box cover that protects the battery cables between the battery box and the doghouse. Which means that you can only see where the bolt is going by kneeling on the seat & leaning over the back & to the side & looping the bolt around and under the pipe legs and you can't see poo poo and you have to somehow get it started in the cage nut without cross-threading it. No way no how. I pushed a 1/4" stove bolt, 3" long, up through the underside of the floor, through the 5/16" cage nut and secured it from the floor surface above with a nut, leaving a fixed standing stud that is way, waaay easier to drop the seat pipe on and start a nut. Victory. Installed an adorable series 35 battery from Wal-Mart.  I loathe Wal-Mart and avoid it like the plague, but when everyone else wants $175-$250 for one, and the Dark Side charges $79, I go Dark. SO We took it out for a spin. The oil burning has ceased. The speedometer goes apeshit after hitting 40-45MPH It wanders all over the road like a lost puppy. Hopefully it's the dry-rotted tires, and maybe tie-rod ends. Steering box has very little slop, and the kingpins are tight. The fuel gauge shows signs of life! The needle shows a fraction of a quarter tank! I'll probably fill it a bit & see if it's at all accurate. Still need seatbelts... Boy, that was exciting. This leaves installing the window channel inserts. I had to re-use all of the brackets from the old divider channel (between the front of the glass & the quarter window), and they were all riveted in. Drilled them out & installed them in the new channel with these 2-sided brass rivets from Michael's that are really meant for textiles - we'll see how well they hold up; I also got tiny Du-Bro flush-mounted 3/32" bolts & nylon nuts in case they don't. Which led to tonight's headache: installing the rear channel insert, which is soft metal with the fuzzies lining a U-channel. The kit, which was about $200 & came with zero instructions, included these fasteners that are just...jammed into the rubber on the back side of the channel (they have two stabby bits); the other side of this fastener is a spring-steel split button-looking thing that is supposed to snap into a hole on a steel tab welded up in the door frame at the bottom of the channel. Apparently through the liberal employment of hulk hand squeezin' strength and foul language. Which didn't work, and was followed by: - screwdriver & ball peen; hunk of wood stuck in the channel, and a C-clamp.  All I succeeded in doing was to beat up the piece I was trying to install (part of the rebuilt divider is visible in the foreground),  and literally dishing the steel mounts/tabs up in the channel in the window perimeter of the door frame. These fuckers will not snap in. The stabby parts don't really hold to the back of the insert, so I'm scratching my head over that...even if I got these retainers snapped into the channel, the part I'm installing would just fall out anyway. I wrote to the manufacturer, but my expectations are low. I may just jam 'em up in there with wonder-workin' butyl tape. Also thinking of some kind of low-profile sheetmetal or machine screw - though I'd need to figure out some kind of threaded (nylon?) insert for machine...The hole is about 3/16, and I can't really get to the back side of 3 of the 5 mounting points. I'm open to suggestions. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 03:45
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It's been two weeks+ Got the window channels & fuzzies in. Also the door seals. On the channels: After talking to a number of folks, including the upholstery guy that did the top on my Bonneville, the options \came down to: - adhesive - #6 flush-head sheet-metal screws - nothing at all. The upholsterer's other tip was valuable: don't worry about securing the channel insert into the channel just yet: get it in, it'll stick in place, and install the sill fuzzies/felts, the glass, and get it going. You'll need the slack to be certain the curve is right where it transitions from vertical to horizontal. Well, getting the rest of it assembled was a relative breeze, and I haven't yet used any fasteners at all. The raised glass secures it and,so far, it doesn't slip when the windows are lowered. I marked off the locations for drilling through if needed, and a couple of sheet-metal screws will be inserted if it moves. I was able to get the window cranks and door levers installed by using a Dremel with a very thin cutting wheel to 'clean out' the mashed teeth on the crank shafts.  This allowed the cranks and levers to be fully seated on the shafts - which turned out to be the reason they stripped out: once the splines get bitched, the sockets won't seat all the way, and the poor seating exacerbates the problem until they don't work at all...so even though some teeth are lost in the re-shaping process, having them fully engaged seems to be the chief factor. Next, installed the door gaskets. These have only four retainers that push into the shell at the bottom of the door. The other 95% is held in place with 3m weatherstrip adhesive (08008). This stuff is perfect for installing rubber to steel, as it tacks up nicely. The easiest and quickest way to install a weatherstrip is to - tape it in place temporarily; - in 2-foot sections, run a thin bead of adhesive on the metal, and let it sit for about 15-seconds; - press the gasket in place. It'll stick. There are a couple of areas where the gasket has to be forced slightly into a curve. For those spots: -apply adhesive to the steel; -press the gasket in and immediately pull it off; -count to 5; -stick it back on. It ain't going anywhere. The seller (Dennis Carpenter) must have been getting a lot of complaints about doors not shutting properly, as they included a note explaining that the nice new gasket that you just installed isn't all flattened & beat like the old one was (or missing entirely) so yes, the doors may not want to close all the way and will require some brio, they will eventually settle in. Which is great if you installed them correctly. I did not on the driver's door. I got them on the correct doors - they are helpfully marked - but I installed the driver's side one backwards, which was discovered when I went to shut the door for the first time and nope. Turns out the hinge side rubber is twice as thick as the latch side. poo poo. I was so focused on gluing them in that i didn't notice. I ordered another set and will be replacing that one; I pared it down with a razor but it still requires so much force to close that it occasionally pops the regulator arm right off the window track roller, and the window drops to the bottom of the run: - SLAM - ~thunk~ poo poo. *opens door panel & re-mounts* This past week, new tires were installed. This thing has 16s on the rear & 15s on the front. Try ordering online for that at a tire shop - it's not possible. You can order four of the same rim, or two. Can't order two different rim sizes in the same order. To be fair, I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have four matching wheels. Afterwards, a distinct improvement in handling was noted, though it still wanders some. If I can get a helper to jog the wheel back & forth I'll get under there and start feeling up the linkage: there's a Pitman arm, and two drag link (idler arm) ends. I lubed everything, wrapped the wiring harness in a split cover and secured it to the belly pan. Then I took it to the gas station for the first time. Even though I had the tank out and replaced the top vent hose, there is a major venting issue - can't fill the tank. Got about half-full and gas was literally backing up out of the fill. It settled down by the time I got home. There are two vents: one is on the filler neck, and goes up inside this box in the bed (that protects the neck from cargo in the bed) and one one on top of the tank itself. Being a mid-century vehicle, there is no vapor recovery - these vent into atmosphere. Good news is, the sending unit / gas gauge works. Bad news is I have to drain it again at some point and figure out how the vents are blocked. I drove it around a bit, got it up to 55 - the speedometer has decided to stay sane - and noted some thumping right up my rear end (hopefully, bad shocks) and some...odd higher-speed rotational thing/sound/sensation when I back up (clutch/flywheel/driveshaft/transmission/overactive imagination). Other than that, and the bracing sensation of driving at killing speeds with no seatbelts and 22-gauge sheet as protection, it was fun. Next is installation of windshield wipers, heater/defroster vents, and seatbelts. It's a project to get photos off of my phone & onto this Dell laptop, so bear with me.
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Oct 17, 2021 16:11
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PainterofCrap posted:This past week, new tires were installed. This thing has 16s on the rear & 15s on the front. Try ordering online for that at a tire shop - it's not possible. You can order four of the same rim, or two. Can't order two different rim sizes in the same order. To be fair, I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have four matching wheels.   and they're certainly not the only ones. pretty sure ive seen this more often than not? e: lol turns out they dont have any results for that size combination, but they'll certainly let you try. and they'll let you order 2x of one size and 2x of the other size, on the same order, of different tire brands/models Raluek fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Oct 17, 2021 |
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Oct 17, 2021 23:05
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Yup, worked great for finding a matching set of tires in 245/45R20 and 275/40R20 for my C10. Staggered wheel diameters are a thing even on some factory fitments - C5 Z06 has 17s on the front and 18s on the rear.
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Oct 17, 2021 23:46
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Raluek posted:
Yeah I saw them. Unfortunately, they're not available in NJ. I searched online for a couple hours for someone local to order that way. Best I could do was Goodyear and Mr. Tire, who let me set-up two separate orders for each axle. They, & Tire Rack (also NA in southern NJ) were the exception. Aaannnd today, I figured out the weird rotational noise. Took it out for a couple errands. The steering floated in an odd way on a long curve at 45-MPH that made my bowels watery, but I couldn't duplicate it at lower speeds. So I get home, and it's making this weird grinding rotation noise. I trace it to the rear - and find three lugnuts missing, and the last two loose, on the right rear. Nearly poo poo myself. Jacked it up & reset the wheel, hammered in the two, one spare, & two extras from the original set. I have no idea how that happened, but it's all on me: I took the wheels to the shop & brought them home - the dry rot was so severe I was afraid to take it there. I have a hard time believing that I didn't torque down all 4; the remaining three wheels were fine; I've never owned mag wheels before, maybe there is some idiosyncracy about mounting them that I am unaware of. Or my choice in replacement lugs? These are American Racing wheels, and they came with these weird fluted nuts that require a special socket to remove. Like anti-theft, but on every stud. I bought replacements that took a normal socket, but they also had a shank ahead of the bevel - which I liked, since they fit in the holes on the mags fine and seemed to help center them. The originals are beveled, like a plain lugnut, with no shank. As much as I hate fiddling with the special socket, I'm wondering if I should go back to them. On the other hand, the shanked ones have been on the front wheels for the last three months. It's going in for an alignment in November, but I am also wondering if the loose wheel queered the steering on that last ride. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 18, 2021 |
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Oct 18, 2021 01:59
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Tire Rack almost suggests staggered wheels and tires for my car. PainterOfCrap: When spraying clear coat over a base coat that has already dried (>48 hours) do you suggest scuffing up the base coat or just spray as-is?
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Oct 18, 2021 21:40
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I am not the most experienced at this, but when I was seeking advice from may fronts on this, I was told that the best way was to spray the base coat and let it flash (about 5-minutes) then hit it with the clear coat. There are others here that know far more than me about it. Get some more input & strike a consensus for your particular set of circumstances (paint type, humidity, temp, etc)
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Oct 18, 2021 23:54
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Now I'm going to have to do some research, but I have always followed the no-more-than-25 minute rule for clear. Basically let if flash and lay down your clear, maintaining a wet edge. Painter friends/family taught me it, both learned it from their dad's from back in the "good paint" days. No idea if it holds true now. Maybe a good question for this guy? https://www.youtube.com/user/nexson
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Oct 19, 2021 00:27
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So... in the boat I'm in, scuff it up, spray another base coat, then immediately go to clear? Next time I think I'll paint a test piece next time I get weird mixing and matching base and clear coats
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Oct 19, 2021 16:49
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PBCrunch posted:So... in the boat I'm in, scuff it up, spray another base coat, then immediately go to clear? Some quick search results on several paint forums gives mixed feedback. The general recommendation is scuff, base, clear for best results. In a home use case, I would agree - otherwise you have no idea what contamination has happened in the last ~week. I did find it interesting at with older paint, manufactures specified "booth time" - as long as it never left the booth, you had weeks between top and base coat. The theory appeared to be that as collision work (insurance) started bumping jobs based on payout, half completed jobs would be pulled from the booth - causing fading, adhesion, contamination. So manufactures changed the recommendation. Get it as clean as possible once, base, clear, and set.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:50
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I read the instructions for the clear, and they say to scuff an old base coat, so I'm going to try that on one wheel and see what it turns out. This thread is great btw. Five stars.
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Oct 20, 2021 15:13
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Pre-Holiday/ Really cold Weather Update! Went back to the yard last weekend. Proper dress, cooler weather and a great foliage die-off made it slightly better. Lots of flooded ditches & little ponds detracted. Picked up a number of unique Ford fasteners & screws, two sunvisor frames (impossible to find, especially the passenger side) ...and a front bumper. Had to lay in the mud and juggle the tools since I brought everything, except either a deep-well 3/4" socket -or- a 3/4 box wrench. WTF. There are at least three vans down there with bumpers in various states of mangle; I picked the one that seemed least mangled and also did not require an entrenching tool for prep work (they're all beached without wheels, and getting to the mounting bolts requires a reach in, up & back to hit the bolts). A chrome (mostly) unit off of a '62 Falcon.  (it was tight in there) Two hours later, I had all of the above plus two more instrument clusters, pulled in the fond hope that at least one of them has a fully functional speedo clockwork. Since the bumpers are NLA and rare as hen's teeth, and even the brackets are going for a couple hundred bucks, I'm tempted to go back and grab the other two. Got home, disassembled, gradually squoze the full length of it in my workbench vise to get the worst of the dents & ripples out; wirewheeled the rusty back side, encapsulated the remaining rust & undercoated it  cleaned up the bolts, mounts & tow hooks & painted them as well. Slipped it in:  The seatbelt sets arrived, so tomorrow I'll be figuring out where the mounts for them will go, and hopefully will have all of the safety gear done by tomorrow night. The side mirrors make a huge difference, and the $12 sucker-mounted center rearview means a huge field-of-view. The interior is pretty much there. Soon I'll get more time behind the wheel running errands, and start getting a real feel for it. I have one defroster vent in, and the heat works great! 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 15, 2021 |
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Nov 13, 2021 04:44
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