Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
these are really interesting. there are lots of things that look the same as my '60 F100, and lots of things that... don't. it's weird to see, considering how lego they usually are.

i will be keeping an eye on this thread to see what you do with it!

Raluek fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Jul 11, 2021

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i used mine once to empty the tank, but then the next time i had to be under there (a few years later) i pulled the pump. havent missed it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
the bed floor looks like a dead ringer for the '57-'66 fullsize ford beds. i just cut up the crashed remains of the original bed for my '60, or i would offer to send you what little straight pieces were left. i ended up recycling like a 5x5 ft square of what would have been a nice patch panel for you :(

but, the guy i got my replacement bed from was parting out a few trucks, and he had several beds to choose from. maybe you can find someone locally who has a bed that's too rough to save

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

When they arrive, gauges for temp, oil pressure & amps. Oil change, fluids, the rest of the exhaust. Rebuild the driver's seat.

i would recommend against an ammeter, those things are scary. are you stuck on originality? a voltmeter might be just as useful, and a lot less likely to catch things on fire

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between.

if you install it the way i understand you to mean - find some random wire that's on switched ignition, cut it, and install to both sides of gauge - it probably won't do what you expect. that would measure the current traveling through that one wire, but wouldn't tell you about the rest of the electrical system. if e.g. the generator current goes straight to the starter solenoid and not through your gauge wire, it won't be measured, for example. same with the starter current, which i really hope doesn't enter the cabin through your little wire.

thats why ammeters have the whole vehicle's harness pass through it, more or less.

the shunt types can be less hazardous, but that only really moves the problem, imo. im def on team voltmeter

out of curiosity, what kit is it? i havent found an electric-sender kit that i like yet.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
yeah if it's a voltmeter, you'd ground one terminal and hook the other terminal to some switched hot (piggyback off of a fuse, or something). you wouldnt cut a wire and splice the gauge in the middle of the wire.

still interested to know what gauge set that is. most of the cheap ones ive seen have had mechanical oil pressure and water temp. some of them cost that much just for each sender!

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

This past week, new tires were installed. This thing has 16s on the rear & 15s on the front. Try ordering online for that at a tire shop - it's not possible. You can order four of the same rim, or two. Can't order two different rim sizes in the same order. To be fair, I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have four matching wheels.

:confused:



and they're certainly not the only ones. pretty sure ive seen this more often than not?

e: lol turns out they dont have any results for that size combination, but they'll certainly let you try. and they'll let you order 2x of one size and 2x of the other size, on the same order, of different tire brands/models

Raluek fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Oct 17, 2021

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
its wild to me to see how similar, but different, this is from my '60 F100. same gauges, in a different dash panel. same pedals, but arranged differently. same bed floor, but the bed shape is different. same tailgate hinge and "F O R D" stamping, but the outline of the tailgate is different.

I checked, and there don't seem to be patch panels for those, though. sometimes you can find complete tailgates in the junkyard, but i havent seen one in a while (or i would have bought one for mine!)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

Things moving along!

After a serendiptous exchange at an insured's house, I went to a metal fabrication outfit in Sewell, NJ, and met with one Tim, one of the managers and, fortunately for me, a car nut.

I brought down the tailgate. The bad news: they can't roll a 3/4" curl like Ford could.

The good news: he has guys that can fabricate a new roll hinge panel out of thick-walled steel pipe stock and 16GA. The shop is super busy, but he says that there are slack periods between large orders and welders who would a) love to work on this and b) make some extra scratch.

Best part is: they'll not just make the part - they'll essentially rebuild the bottom end. So, tomorrow, I'm taking them the tailgate & leaving it for what might be several weeks.

Am spooling up for the rest of the body work. The rocker patch panel came in, and may be enough to repair both sides.

Am heading back to the salvage yard on Friday, with high hopes to snagging some fasteners, but mostly to see if the RIGID 3" cordless cutoff, six batteries, and ten cutoff wheels will be enough to earn me the sections off of the front end & the bed needed to mend everything.

Finally got the gauges installed. The answer to my question is: yes, always use the sending units that come with the gauges. The oil pressure pegged immediately, and the temp gauge was probably reading cool. Changing them out solved it all. A pleasant surprise was finding that all of the gauge illumination is incandescent, so the brightness is equal with the existing cluster lighting:

https://i.imgur.com/gk7xAfv.mp4

Next up is installation of a radio & speakers, moving the fan blower switch from the heater box on the floor (it's an awkward reach that almost compels one to take their eyes off of the road), and acquisition of body-shaping tools, because I'm going to take a run at tapping out those front-end dents with a dolly & a planishing hammer.

your voltage dips when you turn on the lights and rises when you turn them off; you might have a high resistance somewhere or something. i would hope the generator can keep up with a couple hundred watt load from the lights!

then again, the only vehicles i have with voltage gauges also have alternators, so maybe thats a bad assumption...

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

The style was similar enough to a 60-67 F-100 (pickup) wheel

that’s a super weird year range for the wheels to be the same, since that encompasses 3 different body styles (not including the unibody). 57-60, 61-66, 67-72.

well, I guess ford phases parts in and out separately from the body style, like how the early part of that gen (61-63) used the old style bed from the 57-60, and the later ones (64-66) used the later style one like the next body style (67-72).

:shrug:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PainterofCrap posted:

This one would leave a sticky black residue on your hands if they were wet (rainy day, summer sweat, etc) which was probably cheap spray paint releasing after god knows how many decades.

by the way, i don't think this is true. my '60 F100 does the same thing, both the steering wheel and the shift knob. I think it's just whatever plastic (bakelite?) they used for these parts gets gummy with moisture. I think the factory steering wheel has some kind of paint to seal it in, which has rubbed off on mine, but I don't see any obvious remains of a coating on the shift knob. so maybe it was just like that. my wheel has a foam cover on it now, and maybe someday I'll upgrade to leather.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

StormDrain posted:

With a big block sander

is that like those V8 chainsaws?

https://i.imgur.com/ZAlO2NU.mp4

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
drat dude, that's slick as hell. good work.

are those blue dot tail light lenses original?

i like the tailgate rod idea. the chains are comparatively very primitive.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
id say satin black to match the bedliner, or gloss white to match the roof. leaning towards black to match the blacked out doorhandles, and so that the tailgate lettering stands out more, but it would be a little strange to have the roof be the only white on it. also, you still have the chrome grilles, with the other stuff black/blue?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

joat mon posted:

It looks fantastic. I love the die like men decal.
And another vote for white bumpers.
There needs to be a "The driver is the crumple zone" decal

this but crumple zone

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply