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I assume your using a good brand name wire in that machine to work with? If not, that will make your life SO MUCH EASIER. You wouldnt think that you could screw up a solid wire but by hell you can if you make it out of mildly recycled daewoos and rusty bulk freighters!
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2022 02:47 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 06:04 |
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Definitely look into a self leveling enamel tractor paint and either roll or spray it on. We just redid a tractor with enamel paint and despite it being a mix of half arsed cleaning, next to no surface prep apart from wire wheeling and then being sprayed through a cheap gun it came out looking drat good. No need to clear it either!
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2022 00:01 |
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If you haven’t gotten into these things for paint and rust removal, they are the absolute BOMB compared to a flap disk or sanding disk! https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-gb/norton-blaze-rapid-strip Just don’t lean too hard into them or they wear down pretty hard but for cleaning metal for welding they’re hard to beat
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2022 09:34 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I have found some LED bulbs that have shields in place and seem to be a lot better, since they more or less fix the biggest issues. I had them in a Kia that originally came with halogens (albeit in a projector housing) and the light output was excellent with proper cutoff and no odd glare that I could identify, even when I was being a super-picky rear end in a top hat. They were largely indistinguishable from my Hyundai and Miata with factory LED bulbs. Yeah- it seems like if you actually spend real money on LED bulbs they're designed to work in incandescent housings. I've got light force bulbs in both the Land Cruiser and the Tiida and they have identical cutoffs to the incandescent bulbs, but they were also $180 a pair for the bulbs.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2022 13:32 |