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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



I love the truck. Looks like a great project, and nice to get something that already drives.

Is the whole body on that thing one section or are the cab and the rear bed separate (so can you pull the rear bed section off in order to work on it off the truck?).

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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



If I was dealing with that bed I think i would chop the whole thing out (or at least a big rectangle including all of the profiled section on the inside of the wheel arches anyhow) and bolt a removeable flat sheet in for now.
You can then revisit it later and fit a correctly profiled bed in at your leisure and once you have fixed everything else.

If you chop it all out in one go you will gain easy access to clean up the frame and fix up and paint the sides of the bed too, and having a removable bed is really handy.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



How on earth was that belt fitted and not screaming when you got it delivered?

I assume its got the wrong pulley on it or there should be a factory spacer that got misplaced in a previous pump replacement?

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



You are making some nice progress on this!

PainterofCrap posted:

They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between.

The other two gauges look...adequate: electric oil pressure & temp (with the senders), and they appear to be correctly threaded. So I may just live without the volts for awhile, though I do need to connect up my meter and be certain the alternator actually works. I also need a new battery since this one was mistreated & FUBAR; plus I want to try & find one that'll actually fit inside the battery box.

You seem to be confusing ammeters and voltmeters a bit here.

The gauge you have there is a voltmeter. Voltmeters don't go in-line. You just need to give it a 12V ignition-live supply and a good ground connection.
It should read 0 with the key off, then 12.7 volts with the key on and engine off, drop a bit while you crank the engine (but not too far if your battery is good) and then kick up to 14.5 or so once the engine is running and the alternator is doing its thing.

Only ammeters go in-line (either directly or via a big shunt). I really wouldn't bother with one - a voltmeter gives you all you need to know!


PainterofCrap posted:

Any thoughts on applying new bondo over older bondo once it's been roughed up a bit?

Rough it up really well (like 40 grit or something) and go for it. You're not looking for concourse here!
If you go a second layer over smoother old bondo (eg 240/400 grit) it sometimes tends to crack off slightly in my experience.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



As your next job, buy yourself a fire extinguisher and mount it in the cab somewhere. Every vehicle should have one! They are like £15 here with a bracket.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



PainterofCrap posted:

*Discovered that the original holes for the left tailgate hinge were bondoed over & holes were drilled ¼” below & outside of them, so when the steel folks test-fit it, it was to the wrong holes. I fit the gate back in at the original holes and it…may work, but it’s binding up pretty good. Since I have to cut open the sheetmetal back there to repair the corner, I may just weld new blind nuts into the ‘new’ site. We’ll see.

Rivnuts are a lot easier than welding nuts in. buy yourself a tool if you dont already have one.

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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



That looks amazing! well done!

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