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Tire Rack almost suggests staggered wheels and tires for my car. PainterOfCrap: When spraying clear coat over a base coat that has already dried (>48 hours) do you suggest scuffing up the base coat or just spray as-is?
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Oct 18, 2021 21:40
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 09:15 |
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So... in the boat I'm in, scuff it up, spray another base coat, then immediately go to clear? Next time I think I'll paint a test piece next time I get weird mixing and matching base and clear coats
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Oct 19, 2021 16:49
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I read the instructions for the clear, and they say to scuff an old base coat, so I'm going to try that on one wheel and see what it turns out. This thread is great btw. Five stars.
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Oct 20, 2021 15:13
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I did a bad job of rattle-canning some wheels. I waited two days and then sanded all the runs off of all four wheels and sprayed primer on one of them. The primer wrinkled, despite the fact that all the paints I used (primer, wheel paint, wheel clear) said they could be re-sprayed at any time. I elected to strip one wheel back to metal and start over. I have sandblasted the wheel, scrubbed (?) it with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, and used chemical stripper. There are a couple of spots where some paint is still stuck on the wheel. These spots are mostly in places where it isn't easy or convenient to batter with a wire wheel or sander. Is it important that I remove absolutely every molecule of paint after using the chemical stripper or can I proceed to primer and paint under the assumption that anything that survived my assaults isn't going to come off after I lay down new paint? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 16:58
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Time to step my game up. I ordered some epoxy primer and some metallic gray acrylic paint to shoot out of my HF gravity feed HVLP gun. I'm going to do a preliminary run on a set of winter wheels and see how that goes.
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Mar 24, 2022 15:39
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Jensen (and sister brand Dual) make a mech-less (no CD player) head unit with Bluetooth, USB, and auxiliary input for about $30. As a bonus, it is about 2" deep. Do Zunes have Bluetooth output? If it doesn't, I'm sure your phone does lol. Look ma, no wires! And no plywood adapter.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:38
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Do any of you have experience with that Eastwood SCT tool (surface conditioning tool tool?) or it's many clones? Harbor Freight has one now for $130.
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Apr 8, 2022 13:43
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I drilled a couple of holes in the front of the bed of my 1994 Toyota before I applied bedliner. Why make things more difficult than they need to be? Or put airbags all around and pump up the front before you park.
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Jul 1, 2022 23:52
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You asked in another thread about bedliner and painting brake drums. I painted the rear drums on my pickup about a year ago with the POR-15's caliper paint. They still look really good with no chipping whatsoever. I used the same paint on the aluminum calipers of my SC 400 and it did not stick well at all. I don't think you have to worry about that. I sandblasted all my parts (on vehicle) before I applied any paint. I used a little Harbor Freight portable blaster and no cabinet. I did it in my garage but I should have done it outside for dust/mess reasons. As for bedliner I can tell you the Rustoleum stuff is not very tough. I got a whole bunch of it for very cheap, so I don't care. It is really easy to touch up at least. I rolled it on with the small size foam rollers. You get a thicker coat, but the longer dry time means you really should have a covered place to put the truck while it dries. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Sep 1, 2022 |
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Sep 1, 2022 15:59
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 09:15 |
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As far as dust mitigation I would highly recommend a cyclone attachment for your shop vac. I have a Dust Deputy. It costs about $60 plus a five-gallon bucket. Without a cyclone, all the dust enters the shop vac itself, where it will quickly clog up the filter. When sanding wood with a cyclone, 90-95% percent of the dust is captured by the cyclone assembly. The shop vac barely gets any dirt inside it, the filter stays relatively clean, and the airflow stays good. I would still wear a good mask even with a cyclone and a filtered shop vac. I am not sure how well the cyclone action (dust particles falling out of the air inside the cyclone) works on body filler dust. I do know that the effectiveness of the cyclone drops a little when dropping into finer grits of sandpaper. Even at 220 grit (the highest I usually use on wood) the cyclone action is worthwhile. Additional ideas: long piping to put the shop vac and its exhaust outside or add piping to send the exhaust of the shop vac outdoors. This will reduce airflow, but you don't really need that much flow to convince sanding dust to go where you want it. Again, this comes from woodworking, but 3M makes some sandpaper called Cubitron II that is in another universe of speed and dust collection compared to the hardware store stuff. It cuts fast and "stays good" way longer than other sandpaper I have used (I'm looking at you Diablo). It costs a little more and I can't buy it locally, but it is great stuff. I don't know how well it works for body filler, but I think it might be worth a try. You probably also want to get some kind of eraser block for your sandpaper. Sand a little, use the eraser to clean at least some of the embedded gunk out of the sandpaper, keep sanding.
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Oct 24, 2022 17:31
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