|
I have been looking for a pickup truck. After working on newer trucks (i.e. 1998-up) I’d been looking through two avenues: either the closest thing to a farm tractor that I could find, or something like a Toyota Tacoma or T100, Nissan, etc with an extended 2-door cab and the longest possible bed. My son has moved in with his fiancée, who bought a house; my mother is slowly failing (dementia) and has a house full of stuff, as do other family members, and over the next 2-3 years, there’s going to be a lot of totin’ going on. The decent, solid, under-200K models of non-US pickups were at least $11K for not-great examples at least 500-miles away. So I’m perusing Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist, when up pops this ad for a 1965 Ford Econoline pickup. He wants $7000. It’s sitting in a sandy yard in a wooded area in the Pine Barrens of NJ, so I’m fairly confident that it’ll be cheesy. But it actually looked pretty good. I’d post ad photos, but FB banned me from Marketplace for I don’t know what – happened right in the middle of messaging the seller, as well as another guy about a hood for my old Accord, and responding to the barbarians at the gate who all claimed to want my ’07 Versa with the hosed-up CVT. I finally reached the seller two days later (through my wife’s FB account) and went up to check it out. Behold, a 1965 Ford Econoline pickup with a weird SILVER – on –ORANGE paint job, bondo over rust; 170 inline six and three on the tree.   The underside: Looking up at the bed:  but the frame!    That header really helps. Nothing.  Spring perches are all solid:   Cabin floorboards:  The seller was extremely righteous. I was on the horns of a dilemma. I have a lot of stuff going on, - all good, but busy – and the last thing I needed was a new project. But it was apparent that there was nothing on this truck I could not fix, and that all of the truly gnarly issues – were not really issues with this one. The brakes don’t work; the wiring is a mess. BUT it runs. And drives, and will not take a while lot to make it road-worthy. I mean, with these things, there really isn’t a whole lot to them. They’re built on a Falcon pan with an F100 single I-beam front end, and it is only a slight exaggeration that you can repair nearly anything on them with a pair of pliers. I bought a ’66 Econoline window van in the spring of 1982 from a house painter for $125.00. It was a former Bell Telephone truck with 260,000 miles on it. Once I freed up the frozen king-pins, I drove it the entire summer and sold it before back issues and hemorrhoids could develop. There was nothing mechanical on it that couldn’t be repaired in two hours with hand tools. Hardly anything broke. I painted it red with house paint. I loved it, but it sucked for long-distance driving – which is not a problem with this one. So we struck a deal for $6000. He delivered it this morning (said he was righteous):  and I began the process of calculating the body issues    So here are the fun bits: Bed and sides are nothing too serious. The trickiest part will be the tail end of the bed at the tailgate    Which, by the way, is unobtainum. I will be completely rebuilding this.  The front will be the challenge. These curved bottom bits will be keeping me up nights the beaded bits…these parts are not reproduced. My best bet is to find them somewhere unrusted if dented.  Also there’s a fair bit of corrosion at the bottom of the windshield…it is possible that the 18-ga steel used has kept weakness at bay. This windshield will have to come out to gauge the depth of the issue.  These rocker beads are a known issue with all of the Econolines, including the first big ones that came out from the next series in 68 or 69. These panels are available :  The interior actually looks pretty good. At least I don’t have to reupholster anything.      but don’t look too close under the dashboard…gonna be some fun wiring sortage there. First thing I’ve ordered is a factory repro ignition key, switch,, mounting hardware, and door locks matched to the ignition key  Since this will be a work truck, I’ll be focusing on getting the mechanical bits sorted: brakes and exhaust, then lights and signals. Definitely going to get good at welding again. The sheet metal is reported to be 18-gauge; even so I will be practicing on scrap until my bacon-frying technique is improved. Good metal nibblers are also on the menu. I have my new cheap Harbor Freight Mig welder; definitely getting a bottle of argon. I am still researching what I can & can’t find. After the thing goes and stops reliably and I can communicate with surrounding traffic, The windshield pinchweld issues are the most pressing. I have removed and installed glass, but those corner windows are not easy to find. It’s going to sit until I deal with other issues. It’ll be powerwashed first, top & bottom (it had been sitting for a couple years); the carpeting removed carefully, the brakes repaired and a new ignition switch installed so it can be moved, and them we’ll see where this goes. I may remove the tailgate entirely to my garage, since even in this condition they’re worth over a grand. Body-wise, it could get interesting; this thing was re-painted, not a great prep job, ans there is abundant evidence of Bondo lurking in a number of spots. I can’t wait. This will be fun. But if the thread drops off from lack of activity, I may start another. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jul 14, 2021 |
#
¿
Jul 11, 2021 01:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 14:25 |
|
|
Tried to start it to get it up into the driveway to wash it down. It has an undated battery that looks new but probably spent the last three winters dead. I charged it; cranking the engine turned into an adventure. There’s a generic ignition switch in it that has very poor contact - it has to be jiggled quite a bit before the starter comes to life. Cranked & cranked; no fire. The was a toggle switch on the dash; flipping it produced a horrible grating noise from somewhere aft. After communicating with the seller he confirmed that the toggle was for an electric fuel pump as well as ignition. He noted the buzzing should quiet as it pulled fuel. By this time, the battery was dying and the ignition switch was trying to catch fire so I benched the battery for more tasty amps and took a breather. I think it’s a 170 but need to count the freeze plugs. It’s absolutely filthy down in the doghouse, so we’ll look closer after it’s been gunked & power washed. What I did note: - original coil abandoned in place. New coil wire-tied to the… - original fuel line, also abandoned in place. A rubber hose attached to the carburetor disappears down the doghouse to parts unknown. Here’s hoping it joins a hardline somewhere. - 1-bbl carb choke was never adjusted. This explains the hard-start condition. The buzzing fuel pump told me that the tank is empty. Dumped three gallons of 2021 gas into it. Note to self: use fuel pump to drain gas tank before pulling same for cleaning My first repair was to replace a split vent / PCV hose. Put the battery back in a couple hours later & she fired right up. Now in the driveway. But too late for a bath. Yes, she has no brakes, but the e-brake is, fortunately, quite effective. I did probe the windshield gasket & the pinch-weld seems far more solid than expected. There are a few weak spots under the windshield, and I scraped a nice load of bondo that was holding moisture against the nose sheet metal. Also went around popping paint blisters to try to ventilate them. I will be going after this thing with an angle grinder probably sooner than later - I hate bondo mysteries and it’s apparent that whomever committed the crimes to this Ford was clueless about body work and now moisture is trapped against the original sheet metal. It’s gonna look like poo poo for awhile. It apparently had 24s on it when the PO bought it in 2015. If I didn’t know better I’d say it was a featured wheel on, ’Pimp My Ride,’ There’s a distinct lack, however, of flatscreens. Although the JVC head unit works great! So the short list: Clean Check oil New battery New ignition switch & keys Unfuck the weird fuel pump / kill switch Mount the coil properly Replace the totally useless radiator cap Diagnose and repair the brakes (betting a line rusted out) Back flush the engine Change the oil Install a proper exhaust manifold and new exhaust I would prefer to run it with a mechanical fuel pump. I suspect I need a new fuel line. Is there any advantage to leaving an electric fuel pump on the line? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jul 12, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2021 03:03
|
|
|
Thank you; if fuel will pass through it when it's idle, my inclination is to leave it. However, whoever did mechanical work (and I use the term loosely) was an utter hack and I am amazed she still runs and has not exploded colorfully. I finally cleaned it with a pressure washer. Hoo boy, was there ever a lot of crap on it from sitting under trees. Got a few pounds of mulch out of the bed. I wound up removing the tailgate because just leaving it open, unsupported, while water & debris washed over it was enough to deform it so it wouldn't close right. It's in the garage now; doesn't really need one. The bed is somewhat cheesier with all the load-bearing crud removed. Enough so that I'm contemplating cutting the whole thing out & replacing it. Of course, beds for these are NLA, so I'd either need a donor van (ha!) or find some modern pickup bed that's larger and find a way to cut it to fit. That's the proper way. The improper way is to buy a 4x8 sheet of 18-ga from Fazzio's Metal in Williamstown & just drop it in on top of what is there, weld or rivet it down, and put a bed liner on it. Somewhere in the middle is cutting out the worst of the cheese, and welding in (flat) panels. I looked into getting a bead roller, but they are expensive. I am currently shopping around for metal fabrication shops that will do small jobs like mine: handing then marked-up sheets and having then beadroll them for me. Also shopping for period Ford pickup bed patch panels. I also have to get mirrors. Backing this thing out of the driveway and parallel-parking it using the hand brake while trying to look over my shoulder was...harrowing. My son noticed that it appears that the alternator is too big (hitting the doghouse), and that however it's mounted, the bracket is wrong or broken. It's cocked, and the pulley is not aligned properly with the other two. Also learned how to remove the doghouse for easier access to the engine. So: next outing, I'm pulling the seats and the doghouse to determine what engine I've got, and to access for the alternator, fuel line/pump, and that godawful rotted header. The skies opened up before I got photos. I have been plagued with buyer's remorse since yesterday afternoon. The punch list keeps growing...BUT there's plenty of time, I'll never lose money on this thing if I decide to punt. (I won't. It'll pass.) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Jul 13, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2021 14:05
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:So you said it's grey on white... I'm colorblind and I need to know if that's a joke? It looks red? I am getting old. Completely missed that. It's silvery-gray over metallic orange.  Also, in spite of the thread title, it is a '65. I remain puzzled. I don't think it's faded; it was intentionally painted this way. BUT no one bothered to remove what little brightwork this thing has (door handles, locks, gas cap) and just...painted over it. Who- or whatever worked on it mechanically did less than the bare minimum. BUT the interior - way more time and care, not to mention money - to have the seats re-covered, this (clearly) custom carpet & pad installed (and the carpet is relatively new and in excellent condition, as is the pad). I am really struggling to understand what the hell this poor truck has been through in the past ten years. Business ad? Like...make it look pretty, and just functional enough to move it now & then? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jul 14, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2021 02:15
|
|
|
Raluek posted:the bed floor looks like a dead ringer for the '57-'66 fullsize ford beds. i just cut up the crashed remains of the original bed for my '60, or i would offer to send you what little straight pieces were left...  Ja, I'll be looking for just about any truck bed that I might be able to drop in there with some cutting. Preferably 'new'. I presume that, like car trunk pans, that these are in sections. However, less than two miles from me is DeHart's, a local truck outfit that stores and services school buses. They also do commercial conversions - putting vacuum units, tanks, equipment etc on truck & van chassis. They usually have a few pickup bed units lying around - although they probably have a plan for them; also, removing 9,000 spotwelds from an 800-lb bed unit may not be fun. I have time. I have to get up into & walk around the bed to see how truly weak it is, and where. I want this thing ready to move stuff; the only bodywork I'll be doing at this stage is the bare minimum to arrest further corrosion (removing all of the Bondo that's blistering/I can find) and hitting it with paint. Where there are holes, particularly around the windshield, I'll be applying butyl tape after stripping the worst of the rust. Butyl tape is sticky (like used chewing gum) & waterproof and should buy me time. I may even (<gasp!>) pop-rivet some patch panels here & there, to be removed later for welding. e: welp, a brief search turned up the site FMC, which sells Ford truck bits. They have these 1965 F-150 bed patch panels that appear to be beaded the same as this truck. Each panel is 4' long and 16" wide; four would be more than enough to replace the entire bed, and they look easy to work with. I'm tempted to grab at least one (about $75 each with S&H) just for a test-fit. They store easy & don't take up much space. e2: Ordered one sheet for $65. Also ordered an exhaust manifold & bolt kit, fuel pump, gaskets...working on an exhaust system. I'm fairly sure after studying that any 170ci Mustang/Fairlane/Falcon system will be adaptable. There's not much going on under there behind the cab, so it should not be hideously difficult to adapt it to fit should any adaptation be necessary. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jul 14, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2021 14:28
|
|
|
 Got her up into the driveway - backed in this time. I have got to get the brakes fixed, and a mirror on it, before I hit something. Jesus. Got the first parts today: ignition switch & full keyset, fuel pump, pedal pad covers & floor seals for the pedals  Bed now clean. There are rivets & screws all over the place, I assume to repair rusted / popped spotwelds. Who knows.  I may be able to just patch sections of it. It looks waaay better in these photos; haven't load-tested (i.e. walked around in it) yet. So the first thing is to check the master cylinder. the reservoir fill cap is located under this floor cap. The reservoir was wet with fluid, but empty. I filled it & pumped the brake pedal repeatedly; the level dropped a bit. No leaks from the master were seen. Tomorrow, I'll attempt to bleed the brakes. The front wheel cylinders and hoses are newer; the rears are rusty AF. I hit everything with PB Blaster & will hit them again tomorrow. The hard lines did not look too bad. Can't wait to find out where the fluid's going. Since the rears were uglier than 3-day-old sin, I pre-emptively ordered two new wheel cylinders. The one truck resto site had them for $35 apiece. A little digging, and found that these wheel cylinders have been in use since 1949, and that 1st generation Mustangs used them, so I bought them from a Mustang resto site for $11 each. I have a feeling that this is the way it will go with a lot of the mechanical parts.  The driver's window is lacking it's entire window channel, so the glass rattles around something awful. After discovering no steel access panels underneath the vinyl door covering, I had a good look inside the doors. Easy to service & repair. The window crank shaft and the door release shafts on bot doors are fairly stripped; it's going to be a challenge to get the handles to stay put and function. The window regulators work but are extremely stiff, so a clean/lube/rebuild makes the list. Ordered a window channel kit, does both front doors: $175. Yikes, but these are not parts one typically finds used / in a yard. The tires are 235/80/16s and they are all badly dry-rotted - which is a shame; they had plenty of tread left. On the list. Aaaannnnd the truck appears to sag a bit on the driver's side. The rear shocks are Monroe airlifts, with the lines still hooked up. Wonder if they're holding any air... may be shopping for leaf springs. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jul 16, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2021 04:26
|
|
|
Fornax Disaster posted:This is in my collection of old ads - Love these ads! I think 3/4-ton may be a bit optimistic... Late this afternoon after it dropped below 96-degrees, I went at the dead brakes. I couldn't get the left drum off, and it was too hot to struggle. The drum & backing plate are dry. The right rear looked...great, actually.  Miraculously, the bleeders cracked loose. I did a quick & dirty 1-man - couldn't see anything at the right rear from the driver's seat - but looped the hose up high to catch bubbles. Right bled, no problem. Driver's side, even wide open, the pedal got stiff, but nothing was moving. I finally stomped it good a couple times; something let go, and the fluid ran. After that, the brakes...worked, but the fronts still need to be bled; I drove it around the neighborhood and was able to row through all three gears. The clutch and shifter felt great, considering the latter needs to be lubed. The steering, however, is reeeaaalllly squirrelly. That'll get a look when the front end is in the air for the brakes. It's either the steering box, kingpins, or (pleasepleaseplease) tie rod ends, or a combo. I also solved the mystery of the steering clunk: there's a damper on the steering that's held onto the I-beam with, no poo poo, an exhaust clamp. Which, to no one's surprise, is loose. Still don't know why the master cylinder was empty. I imagine it'll show up at some point. Found a rust spot on the frame!  I'll weld a patch on it at some point. It's the only one - I checked more thoroughly after finding it - and it's not in a critical spot (like a mounting point). Also confirmed that the fuel line is, indeed, a hose all the way to the tank. Today: the log hath arrived.  Doghouse & seats coming out this weekend! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jul 17, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2021 02:51
|
|
|
Pretty sure it’s an aftermarket reproduction. The exhaust manifolds on the I-6s were prone to cracking, so there is a healthy aftermarket - unlike the steering box, which I’d have to rebuild. I did rebuild the one on my ‘66, back in ‘82- years of driving on frozen kingpins reduced the ball-bearings to something like orange seeds; I scored 40-60 replacement BBs at…a hardware store. The cab is integrated into the body. No separation. Technically, it’s unibody construction; the bed is spot-welded onto the frame. So it’s gonna be drill, baby, drill.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2021 17:47
|
|
|
Worked on the brakes this past weekend.  Found the leak after bleeding the brakes: the master cylinder leaks at the front seal. Was going to try & install the new ignition switch, but the one I bought uses spade connectors; the generic it’s replacing used screws/lugs…the lugs look like factory wiring, but they’re going to have to be cut & spades crimped on. Also, the terminals on the new switch are not marked; found a couple of diagrams online, but they say different things BUT are consistent that the one terminal is BAT and the center terminal, which is threaded for lugs, is Accessory. Everything else will be tested with a probe light to see what’s what. I checked how the accessory switch was wired on the aftermarket, and as far as I can tell, it’s all wrong. I mean, they clearly got the starter momentary switch right, and maybe the coil wire…because it did crank when held over. Then again, the flip switch was both ignition as well as the fuel pump, so it looks like the previous gang of idiots wired it constant hot (the pump would run whether the ignition switch was turned or not). When I got done removing the flip switch, I happened to notice that two green wires lugged to the ACC lug went..nowhere. Just cut off. Also there’s a mystery black wire with a thinner black wire crimped on what looks like a factory lug, just floating around under the dash. Also two wires terminating in insulated spade connectors of each gender that also appear factory. Nothing electrical in the instrument cluster works. The speedo runs away & all over the place. I’ll try to repair it since (all together now) they’re NLA. TL;DR: the wiring looks like a nightmare but something tells me it’ll sort out easier than I think. Maybe later this week. Also: the fuse panel holds something like five fuses & it’s part of the headlamp switch. I have to remove the switch to get at it. Tomorrow I’m hitting Friendship Auto Salvage in Tabernacle, NJ. I’ve been going to this yard since 1985; they’ve been a going concern in the Pine Barrens for at least 75-years. They say that they have a couple Econolines in there; could be anything, or nothing. I have a list, tools & wasp spray. So I removed the seats & the passenger-side doghouse access panel to prepare for new exhaust & inspect the engine.   It has five freeze plugs, making it a 170. The VIN code says it came from the Lorain, OH plant with a 240. Maybe it’s a 240? Alternator is mounted on this…booger-welded homemade bracket set.   It’s dialed all the way out and still the belt is loose. Ordered a new bracket set, not sure if it’ll fit or not. There is only the one wire hooked up to the alternator; it also has a Jones plug, but it’s hanging loose. The F-150 bed patch arrived!   Unfortunately, the beading is different. If the entire bed is replaced, I suppose I could re-do it in these patches…but I can’t use it for section repair. Probably the single most important purchase I made came today:  Decoded the VIN. E100 standard pickup Dark Green 3-sp manual, 4:55 rear 240 engine VIN assigned September 1964 (don't think that that's the build date) Built in Lorain, OH from an order out of the Philadelphia district. Gross vehicle weight is 3600-lbs Oh, I forgot to mention the the driver's seat is broken at the slide rail. If I can't find another seat frame, I have to completely skin this one & figure out how to weld it back together again. :/ Gonna be doing a lot of welding PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Mar 28, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2021 04:37
|
|
|
STR posted:I'm sure you know this, but the speedo is cable driven, and when they go whacky wild speed racers on you, the cable is usually binding up. Pull the cable and generously lube it with lithium grease (you may need to even pull it out of its sleeve). Here's to hopin' Tomarse posted:If I was dealing with that bed I think i would chop the whole thing out (or at least a big rectangle including all of the profiled section on the inside of the wheel arches anyhow) and bolt a removeable flat sheet in for now. I saw a restored one for sale, where it looks like they simply threw a flat sheet of 18-ga on top and hit it with Rhino Liner. It's an extremely appealing solution, not least because Fazzio's Metal sells 4x8 sheets of metal in a variety of gauges. I wince however at the thought of layering steel like that, and what would be going on between the layers. If I could figure out a way to seal between the layers, it might bother me less. On the other hand, I'll be driving it & using it. Most of my welding time should be spent patching other body holes before they grow much more, especially around the windshield. If at some distant future date I get hit on the head with a frying pan and decide to do a full restoration on this thing - then money will apparently not be an object anyway. What is more likely is that i will eventually sell the problem to someone else. In other news, between selling the Versa and getting a total-loss settlement for the CR-V, I'm getting back $5600. Good trade. Went to Friendship Auto Salvage today. It was very, very wet. Like, you should be wearing waders to get anywhere wet. Never seen it like this, I was climbing over wrecks to stay dry. No mosquitoes got me, but I found a deer tick later. I found one first-generation Econoline!  Uh. yeah. I might be able to score the driver's seat, if they remove what's on top and if it isn't flattened too far for me to wedge in there to get to the seat bolts. And that was it. Couldn't find any others; may try again next week, after the floodwaters recede. It's a unique experience:  https://i.imgur.com/yOwQLYN.mp4 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 21, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2021 04:00
|
|
|
Update: Last weekend: Got the master cylinder in. Replaced the ignition switch module. In order to have enough room to get at the back of the dash to do this, one needs to... Remove(d) the combined headlamp switch/fuse panel (four active fuses, including a 7.5-amp one I pigtailed off of for a radio). It's a weird setup: most of the harness wiring (such as it is) is bussed into the fuse panel, which is a plastic block with fuses on one side, and a series of captured female spade connectors on the back. The headlamp switch has all of the companion male spades; they're thus sandwiched together and held by a pair of spring-steel strap clamps. At some point, someone manhandled it & broke the plastic fuse casing that is the attachment point for one of the clamps, which allowed the two sections to sag & slip apart. I assembled them and substituted a wire tie. Strangely, after that, all of the lights & turn signals worked. Also the brake lights. The brake light switch is a 'wet' pressure switch screwed into the back of the distribution block on the master cylinder. I stuck the old one back on after bench-bleeding the new master; apparently it was stuck in the 'contact' position; I walked round back of the truck & found a light on when the key was out & the headlights were off. I crawled under and unplugged one of the wires...and they were quite warm. New switch was $8. After a few days' hiatus for other things as well as it being too damned hot, I finally went after the exhaust manifold bolts & nuts. I'd been hosing them for a week in PB Blaster (doubt any got into the head for the bolts, but what the hey) and to my utter amazement and delight, every single one of them turned! I was expecting to spend at least a couple days having a battle royale with these fasteners, and here they are, giving up without a fight...except that there was one hidden bolt I could not get a wrench on. I have no idea how they got it in, because the header tube curled back under it in such a way that the bolt head was too close to take a wrench. I wound up sawing off the rear two tubes to gain access to it.   The alternator has to come out, and the heater hoses & throttle linkage have to be moved, but I expect to have most of the Falcon exhaust installed by this time tomorrow. I say "most," because the company I bought the system from forgot to ship the long run with the hump in it. I can go ahead & install what I have - it'll just end under the bed - until they ship out the rest of it. But it'll be nice to be able to drive without earpro and monoxide poisoning. Bye, bye! 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2021 22:49
|
|
|
I think I've finally hit bottom with this thing - in that I have finally exposed all of the obvious mechanical issues. I was getting ready to install the manifold and the alternator bracket (you can see it loosely installed in the photos I added above) and was figuring out where to set the alternator for pulley alignment when I noticed something amiss.  Thought 1: How the hell does this happen? How do you wind up with the water pump pulley & crank pulley misaligned? Thought 2: This thing must've been eating belts like crazy. Also: The rear panel on the doghouse has a bit of a corrosion issue:   Fortunately, the lip on the floor is stronger than it looks. Most of what is visible & chunky-looking there are remnants of the doghouse lip and a lot of factory butyl tape that was used as a water seal between the cabin floor & the doghouse. Still have to figure out how to install new capture nuts. However, it looks like I'll be welding sooner than later; I looked all over online but could not find anything, anywhere, to get a used doghouse. This is where we find a huge blind spot on the Internet: used/salvage-yard parts/inventory. The vast majority of salvage yards do not post their inventory. Some post newer vehicle stuff, but the only people posting car parts for the 70s back are usually asking insane money. Example:  So I'm back to what I did to source salvage-yard parts before the internet: working the phones & hitting yards. In a city the size of Philadelphia, there's bound to be a few Econolines here & there in yards that keep the old stuff. However, for the time being, I'll fab a patch out of 18-ga & weld it in so this thing can be reassembled when I'm done with the engine. I'll be getting a bottle of argon sooner than I thought. Not being certain which water pump pulley might line up with the crank, and with used ones topping $100, I checked the alignment and found the water pump studs to be about 1/2" too short; it has to come out about that far. I went to a local speed shop (Ben Pilla in Blackwood) and found that a set of carburetor studs would work. They had the correct threading; however, the fine thread needed to be in, and the coarse out - and the coarse was the short end of the stud. Since I therefore couldn't thread the nuts all the way to the stop, I used the nuts & lock washers that came with the set to set the studs at the proper depth (all the way through) in the water pump boss. The combined nuts & lockwashers happened to be the proper thickness to double as shims, so the pulley now will sit aligned, and attention can be turned to the alternator mount.   (yeah, I know the fan's on backwards) BUT have to clean up this mess first:  -abandoned-in-place fuel pump and coil, with replacement coil attached to the fuel line with a ziptie. Excellent! I'm debating on replacing the fuel pump at this time. The electric pump is working fine; and while I don't like the rubber hose as the fuel main, I can get at the pump from underneath. The new Falcon steel fuel line is here...guess I'll see how long it takes to repair the doghouse & get the coil sorted, exhaust manifold & alternator installed, etc & if I feel like it, spend a day running the new fuel hard-line. Have to wire-wheel the doghouse bits, and the cabin floor, and POR-15 it all; repair the doghouse; install all of the engine bits, and reinstall the doghouse with new butyl tape. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2021 16:55
|
|
|
None of the three pulleys were aligned with each other. When I got it, it had the wrong belt on it - at least an inch too long; the alternator (the tensioner) was as far out as it could go, hard up against the doghouse panel, and I could move the belt with my hand. In the month I've had it, the longest I have driven it was around the block, maybe 4-6 minutes tops, and the engine has never been to operating temp. It's not going on any longer journeys until all of the fluids, including the diff & transmission oils, have been changed. I'm guessing it was something like that. Based on the condition of the bolts, capture nuts, and the factory butyl tape, the doghouse has never been removed. It's not clear that the radiator has ever been removed, but I'm skeptical that it has lasted 56-years and still be not only operational, but flowing well...it hasn't been touched in at least thirty years. That means working from above or below, and replacing the water pump without at least removing the passenger-side seat & panel, if not the radiator, would be a lot of fun - working down (or up) a dark hole with your arms extended & extremely limited visibility. So there could have been some fuckititis after that little nugget was discovered, and they sent it on its merry way with their fingers crossed. I wirewheeled & primed the rear doghouse panel and fan about an hour ago. I also took some random swipes at the body, and I'm hitting this Da-Glo-colored primer that must be an indicator coat for all of the Bondo I'm hitting. Bondo; Bondo everywhere. I'm going to have to use a heat gun or something because the amount of dust created by grinding is literally leaving drifts in my driveway and the truck bed. I'm a little concerned at what is being hidden, but the metal I have found so far under it, while buried deep, is not bad. It's a puzzle for another day. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2021 01:47
|
|
|
Progress since: Finally got around to repairing the doghouse via some truly lovely welding. I really have to get a bottle of argon and practice, practice, practice     Thankfully, it's a functional piece, located where no one can see it. Got the manifold and first header section installed. The belt finally lines up! Radiator back in; waiting on a correct bottom hose. There's about 2-feet of some cobbled-together ribbed generic thing flopping around down there.  Still have to figure out how to build a corrected throttle pushrod to replace that booger-weld. The problem is that the throttle crank on the Carter is too short, and the rod from the throttle bellcrank hits the intake manifold casting because they're off-plane about an inch. I may just try and bend something. I could bring the throttle crank on the carb out with a fabbed extension, but have to see how much that changes the geometry & affects the rotation of the throttle vs. the bellcrank.  On the driver's side, removed the dead coil and put the replacement where it belongs. I pulled the mechanical fuel pump. It's an odd one; the one I bought to replace it clearly won't go:  I ordered another, but it got me to thinking. What engine is in this thing? I've assumed it was a 170 based on the number of freeze plugs, and the cast-in intake manifold. I located the casting numbers:  "D"-1970; "8" is the year of the decade; "B" is Fairmont. "E" may be the engine plant. ...this is a 250ci out of a '78 Ford Fairmont. Oh, mighty beast. Well, it's the proper engine, and a good one...but, good to know when ordering engine parts! I was finally able to locate the exact type of fuel pump. Came right up with that year & model. As it cooled towards sunset, I wirewheeled and encapsulated the battery tray/box bottom.  Tomorrow's strip and seal: the battery box top and the rest of the doghouse panels, which will be getting discount Dynamat; Drill out the doghouse holes; install cage nuts for the doghouse bolts. When they arrive, gauges for temp, oil pressure & amps. Oil change, fluids, the rest of the exhaust. Rebuild the driver's seat. While installing the radiator from underneath, my eye happened to catch something previously missed: some PO / dingdong ran the rear axle brake feed hardline through the bulkhead - in a hole currently occupied by one of the transmission shift rods! Throw it on the pile. .
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
Raluek posted:i would recommend against an ammeter, those things are scary. are you stuck on originality? a voltmeter might be just as useful, and a lot less likely to catch things on fire The gauges - at least the temp & oil pressure - are a requirement on any of my vehicles, especially these old bastards. Stock on these is a pair of idiot lights (which don't work, probably because the wires were disconnected from the engine). I may mod the instrument panel from the yard to fit these gauges in. If the ammeter involves routing the current main through it, I am not installing it; however, it appears to have a really thin wire, so I'm assuming for now that it operates like a glorified voltmeter. I'll probably fuse it with at least a 10-A glass inline, though. Maybe 5-A if the wire's really thin. I'm doing so many different things to this beast and in random order, I forgot to add that I found a yard with at least five Econolines! I did my call-around - and about 15-yards in, I learned: - No one in Phila has the real estate to hold on to old iron. - Most of these things were used up & crushed. On call fifteen to a yard I never heard of in Vineland, I finally hit paydirt on, "do you know where I can find any?" & the guy said, "Sure, Myers has what you need." Never heard of Myers Auto Salvage in Winslow Twp. I called 'em up, and they said that they had several vans and one pickup...so, in the middle of a weekday, I foolishly went on a recon. I say foolish, because I didn't dress appropriately - wore shorts - and my legs got torn up but good by blackberry bushes. Fortunately few mosquitoes, and no ticks.    I scored a driver's seat (for the frame / mounting brackets); door panels! another instrument cluster with speedo (probably trashed) & wiring harness. and two extremely rare defroster vents - these are made out of some type of compressed cardboard; stock ones go for at least $150 apiece, and the reproduction ABS ones are $250/set (it would be nice...). I'll probably coat these with epoxy or something, because they are fragile AF. Sadly, no doghouse panels, which is what I was really going for. One was entirely gone (removed); two were rustier than mine, and the remaining three were designed for the 300 motor, and have a large hump in the back that it would be far more difficult to fab up than what I have.  I am coming back for those FORD letters and the front bumper & brackets. Probably also the window regulators, a number of fasteners in the door, and maybe some spare door glass. Thinking also, down the road, about cutting out floor sections to repair the truck bed, as well as a fender well. I'd need a robust battery-powered angle grinder... The pickup is kept by the owner's house. He wants $2500 for it. I didn't check it out; I will probably find everything I need in the six vans that are here. The driver's seat was incredibly disgusting after 2-3 decades of weather exposure, but it had the parts I needed: the seat tracks: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Sep 7, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It (hopefully) also has a current shunt that gets installed in a more sane place, in which case the gauge itself would just be a voltmeter calibrated to read the voltage drop on that shunt and report that in terms of amperage. They showed up today, and it's a voltmeter - two lugs. Basically, I find a constant hot that isn't affected when the key is turned to START, cut it an install it between. The other two gauges look...adequate: electric oil pressure & temp (with the senders), and they appear to be correctly threaded. So I may just live without the volts for awhile, though I do need to connect up my meter and be certain the alternator actually works. I also need a new battery since this one was mistreated & FUBAR; plus I want to try & find one that'll actually fit inside the battery box. It's too damned hot & humid today to do anything. The primer I applied yesterday hasn't cured fully yet, which is not surprising since we hit 104 and 80% humidity today. Welcome to Philadelphia in August. In addition to the gauges, the insulation mat, spline extenders for the window cranks, and a West Coast- style mirror arrived, along with the (wrong) cage nuts. I am accumulating a poo poo-ton of parts & my wife is overjoyed. Still waiting on the window seals & fuzzies, a bag of 9/16"-24 cage nuts, and some electrical connectors. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Aug 12, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 23:44
|
|
|
Raluek posted:if you install it the way i understand you to mean - find some random wire that's on switched ignition, cut it, and install to both sides of gauge - it probably won't do what you expect. that would measure the current traveling through that one wire, but wouldn't tell you about the rest of the electrical system... It's a generic cheapo out of China, three gauges for $40; just want to get it so I get oil pressure & temp lines set-up & working properly; may upgrade to something better later. I figured it wouldn't give me accurate charge/discharge, but at the very least, give me the current voltage through a constant hot...I can test the alternator with a meter. The instrument cluster has fuel & temp gauges only, the ALT is an idiot light. The only high current coming in is for the headlights. The main for the starter is tied to a relay in the engine compartment.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2021 14:25
|
|
|
Sorry to disappoint, but they don't have a name on them anywhere. They are electronic - I've seen what happens when a 'wet' oil sender tube leaks in the cabin, ain't no fun.  I may try to mount the gauges...but first, will test the temp gauge (top right) & leave it be if it works.    The paint/rust treatment finally cured. Took four days. I'll be buying a tiny battery - a group 51, which is 9"x6" - it's the largest I can find that'll fit in there. If it's not too obscenely hot today, I'll wirewheel and treat the battery box top and the doghouse panels. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Aug 13, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2021 14:53
|
|
|
Today, the first day under ninety degrees and sub-50% humidity in a while, we were able to" Change the engine and transmission oil; Install the exhaust system     Wirewheel and prime the doghouse panels:    and just happen to notice that the front U-joint was moving around in the yoke a bit due to a missing 7/16-24 nut...  wonder how long it was rolling around like that. The gear oil in the transmission was super-gloppy and seemed to have some water in it. The drain plug magnet only had some cream o' metal on it, no chunks; Even in the heat, I probably should have put a propane torch on it, but 2-1/2 hours draining was probably enough. The output seal is probably shot anyway, based on the crud coating everything in its arc. The same for the differential input seal... Also fabbed up some cage nuts that snap into the floor plan for the doghouse bolts. I may be able to get the insulation matting on and the doghouse installed this week. More tomorrow if the weather holds.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2021 03:56
|
|
|
Any thoughts on applying new bondo over older bondo once it's been roughed up a bit? Sunday: Further wirewheeling and cleaning up of the interior has revealed a series of small dents in the nose panel...which solves the mystery of the heavy layer of nose panel bondo. I'm not sure it'll ever get a full cosmetic restoration; I'll know more once I finally get it mechanically sorted and (hopefully) road-reliable. I'll absolutely have to weld patch panels in the rockers because bondo simply will not hold down there, and am drifting towards stripping and rhino-lining the cheesed-out bed, throwing a solid sheet of 16-ga on it, screwing it down with stainless screws, sealing the perimeter, and rhino-lining that. My efforts here are all focused on doing proper mechanical repairs, solid work, no skimping...but there are already three screwed-down patch panels in the cab, so I'm not opposed to pop-riveting in a couple small ones where needed in that area; if I do go full ham on it someday, this'll all be reversible...so I'm not opposed to bondo over solid metal.  On Saturday, fabbed in a fuel hard-line, replaced the mechanical fuel pump, tested it, then plumbed it to the carb.   The color and odor of the fuel that was caught in a bottle during a test of the mechanical fuel pump means I'll likely pull the tank and drain it. Also cleaned out the pumpkin and replaced the oil. Looked good inside, though the oil was terrible black. To my utter shock, the tag was still on it, and it read 3.55, which is a damned sight better than the factory tag of 4.4  And found another problem: whatever hack installed the traveler brake line from the master to the rear axle and ran it through the bulkhead next to one of the shifting rods, which it is rubbing against, also kinked the line riiiggght where it screws into the distribution block on the axle, so now it looks like I'll be replacing the entire thing. Didn't do much Monday; it wasn't too hot, but between my job and house & yard work that could be deferred no longer (mostly due to the heat) I was bushed. Did vacuum out the cab after wirewheeling it yesterday, and spent some time taking & reorganizing stock and supplies- got eight feet of heater hose and another fuel filter to mount back by the tank rather than in the engine compartment. I need to test the sending unit anyway. Would also like to know if the 160-lb counterweight is still above the tank. I need to make a list of all the crap that I've had to correct or repair. For a very simple vehicle, there is an awesome amount of hosed-up poo poo. I haven't even gotten to the door mechanicals yet. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Aug 17, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2021 14:55
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:You are making some nice progress on this! Yeah I was. Simple voltmeter should be fine. Incidentally, the battery that came with it seems to be holding fine: it was at 12.6V after sitting for two weeks. I have to get a new battery (and figure out a hold-down; probably a strap); the only ones currently available that will fit in the box (9" x 6") are Group 35 & 51. Probably getting a 35 from NAPA. Tomarse posted:Rough it up really well (like 40 grit or something) and go for it. You're not looking for concourse here! StormDrain posted:If you're not trying to get a perfect finish I'd say bondo on bondo all day. Te worst case is the old stuff had picked up moisture and is rotting the metal, and that ship has sailed now. I'd hit it with a layer of epoxy primer first because I love it and I've never had adhesion issues under or on top of it. Thank you! - I am aware of moisture in the bondo, which was one of the reasons I painted it over immediately after grinding it down. I really suck at finish bodywork so I may throw it (and $$$) at someone to get it paint-prepped after all of the metalwork is done.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2021 17:15
|
|
|
This week's developments: Pulled the gas tank. Although the factory manual swears that there's a drain plug, there wasn't. The fill inlet is located half-way down the side of the tank, which resulted in me being doused with a few quarts of what used to be gasoline after pulling the straps.  I moved fairly smartly away and mentally sited all possible ignition sources. Fortunately, the sun was strong and there was a slight breeze. I wound up naked at my own back door, hammering furiously because my wife locked it. We never, ever lock it. Now, she locks it. To her credit, she never asked why her husband was naked and reeking of turpentine. God but it was rank. Probably was a good idea to drain it...  The tank itself was in excellent shape.  After a quick shower and changing into something a little less combustible, I hooked up an ohmmeter and slowly flipped the tank over & back a few times to get the sending arm to sweep. The values changed quite a bit, so I left it be...I can replace it while installed - it's on the front face - so we'll see how the thing works when hooked up to a gauge. I was very happy to see the counterweight is still installed:  Replaced all of the rubber bits and reinstalled the tank. Cut off that hanging bit, which was a remnant of a trailer hitch bracket Now would probably be a good time to grind all of the rusty bits off of the frame rot over the axle. The tank is empty and dry. Picked up some hardware at the speed shop to re-do the throttle linkage. Had to order a threaded rod, because no one (not even my local Fastenal) had 1/4"-28 fine threaded rod. Today am also working on replacing the heater hose...these are the longest hoses I've ever installed - one is 7'6" and the other is just under 7' long.  I had picked up ten feet of 5/8" hose, but after installing the first run, it was clearly not enough. The heater core is right up front; the 2-hoses have to travel back through 2-bulkheads, then turn up & loop against the passenger-side doghouse (where it is clamped) then loop over across the engine to the water pump.  While I'm waiting for the throttle rod, I'll be working on the instrument cluster to see if we can get all of the lights going & check the condition of the original gauges. I'm pretty sure that all of the remaining loose wires hanging under the dash are all connections to the instrument cluster. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 22, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2021 15:56
|
|
|
Today: took advantage of having a dry tank and no gas to ignite, to beat the poo poo out of the rusted spot on the frame with the wirewheel, followed by a cutting disc. It looks like water drips through rust holes in the bed and runs down the frame rail, since it's an open-box unibody thing...and apparently, it liked to collect in this spot. After cutting out everything I could reach, it was blown out with compressed air and treated with a spray of rust encapsulator.  At some point - probably when the leaf springs are replaced - I'll get in there, finish cleaning it out, and weld in some plate. Next up was the front doghouse panel. I wasn't going to do this, but the cage nuts need to be replaced in a couple spots, and the panel was held in with sheet--metal screws and caulk. Mostly; due to some more(!) hidden rust. Now, unlike the rear panel, this one is a hell of a lot easier to access to remove; also, the rusted-out bits were along the flange and didn't creep up into the panel itself, so I cut a pair of strips which will be riveted to make a support sandwich. So it was wirewheeled & primed.   ...which will be assembled after a couple coats of paint. It started raining, signalling the end of outdoor work. Pulled the instrument cluster, and confirmed two things: - Every single thing was unplugged except for a couple of bulbs - Somebody tried to deal with a twitchy speedometer by dumping in a thick-ish dinosaur gravy in great quantities, which gummed up the entire mechanism and, for unknown reasons, corroded the hell out of most of the wheels on the odometer drum. It was like molasses. After a thorough cleaning with electronic cleaner and Awesome Orange , the speedometer works normally. I swapped the drum off of the yard unit (for some cosmic reason, it was about the only part on it that wasn't weather-blasted) and gained about sixty thousand miles - from 39,900 to 97,500. It's titled as, "exceeded mechanical limits" so it ain't no thing.  Tomorrow will be more painting, maybe finish fabbing up the front panel. I've ordered new gels for the turn-signal and high-beam indicators. They're faded yellow, for some reason. Tested and confirmed that the temp and fuel gauges both work. The 2" openings in the cluster frame are just slightly too small for the modern gauge housings; I may mod the yard unit frame and install them there. Couldn't get the idiot lights for the current and oil pressure to light. The cluster backlight illumination bulbs also do not light (bulbs themselves tested OK) This week will be working on that as well as the throttle linkage. Once those two are done, it's time to fire it up for a static test to operating temp for the engine, gauges & electric. It's getting there! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Aug 23, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2021 02:36
|
|
|
In spite of the heat, and then Ida dumping a poo poo-ton of work on me, there has been progress. Rebuilt the speedometer - wound up using the yard unit and transferring the odometer drum and face to it. Note: when you need fasteners to fit where there were teeny-tiny rivets, DuBro makes a full line of teeny-tiny nuts and bolts for R/C aircraft/vehicles. They are far easier to use than rivets, assuming that you can even find 3/32” rivets. Installed a fuel filter, got all of the instrument lights & the dome light working; Installed the gauge suite, they all work & are wired into the dash light circuit New speedo cable Flushed the heater core & confirmed that the heat control actually does stop the flow of coolant & doesn’t leak (bonus!) Filled the coolant. Started up and ran the engine. https://i.imgur.com/zDNeIES.mp4 The gauge suite appears to work normally. Gas gauge / system is not working. Have to confirm continuity at the tank & then replace the sending unit if that ain’t it. Goddamn it’s quiet & smooth…but it’s smokes like a bastard. Oil smoke. While it’s possible that a good Italian tune-up will remedy it, it’s probably the rings. Even if it’s only the valve seals, the rings are probably close behind. Not sure yet how I feel about it. On one hand, this was never intended to be a DD, but a haul vehicle when that is needed. It runs well, and so long as the plugs don’t foul, I can keep dumping oil in it. Eagerly awaiting the consumption rate…. On the other hand, I am not pulling this engine anytime soon, possibly never. On the gripping hand, I’m looking at another $2500 for leaf springs and tires (the springs are $1500 and can wait; the tires cannot) and if I keep it it’s no biggie but if I decide to sell it once it’s mechanically sound, I’d rather not spend another $5000 on it (bed & body) for the next guy. Regardless, it’s getting reassembled, seat fixed, doors/window mechanisms and seals replaced, and tires. Once that’s done I can park it & forget about it and see where the winds take me. I should be able to get $8000-$10K for it by that point. Ran it for about a half-hour. Did not overheat, but holy poo poo, without the doghouse installed, it gets really loving hot in the cabin, even with the doors hanging open. Glad I insulated the panels; should help a lot once I get that all in. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Sep 7, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2021 23:34
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Many times while the Binder was ugly and rusting people asked what the plan was and it was along the lines of "just managing the decline". Getting it reasonably comfortable and capable is plenty. I am absolutely stealing this.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2021 13:57
|
|
|
Update! Ida hasn't killed me yet! Yay! We are now quite close to the goal of mechanical repair to the point where I can stop for awhile. The floor has been patched. There were five patches, one large one sorta joined to the edge of the reinforced area where the front doghouse panel goes.   I replaced them with one large sheet of 16GA, which did wonders to stiffen the deck.    Also put small patches on a few other spots, then painted the floor and reinstalled the doghouse, and glued the carpet back on   Replaced the tracks on the driver's seat with the refreshed ones from the yard. I drilled mounting holes directly through the seat tubing to mount it - there seem to be different designs depending on the year; mine had a tab welded onto the seat frame that offset the outboard track (like how the inboard track is mounted - on the right side in this picture).  The tab had broken off; re-welding it promised to be a headache that would involve removing everything flammable from the frame, which is a giant pain in the rear end. I can do it, but it's a sucky job, so when I saw how the tracks mounted directly onto the frame on the seat from the '62 that I scored, all I had to do was check the measurements, and it lined up with the bolt locations in the floor. Hell of a lot easier to drill through it with a step bit than all that other nonsense.  But there's always a price. Mounting the driver's seat was its own special hell because the inboard rear bolt is supposed to be dropped down into a cage nut in the doghouse flange at the floor. Which is located in a tiny box canyon made up of the battery box, the doghouse (distance between: three inches) and dead-ended by a box cover that protects the battery cables between the battery box and the doghouse. Which means that you can only see where the bolt is going by kneeling on the seat & leaning over the back & to the side & looping the bolt around and under the pipe legs and you can't see poo poo and you have to somehow get it started in the cage nut without cross-threading it. No way no how. I pushed a 1/4" stove bolt, 3" long, up through the underside of the floor, through the 5/16" cage nut and secured it from the floor surface above with a nut, leaving a fixed standing stud that is way, waaay easier to drop the seat pipe on and start a nut. Victory. Installed an adorable series 35 battery from Wal-Mart.  I loathe Wal-Mart and avoid it like the plague, but when everyone else wants $175-$250 for one, and the Dark Side charges $79, I go Dark. SO We took it out for a spin. The oil burning has ceased. The speedometer goes apeshit after hitting 40-45MPH It wanders all over the road like a lost puppy. Hopefully it's the dry-rotted tires, and maybe tie-rod ends. Steering box has very little slop, and the kingpins are tight. The fuel gauge shows signs of life! The needle shows a fraction of a quarter tank! I'll probably fill it a bit & see if it's at all accurate. Still need seatbelts... Boy, that was exciting. This leaves installing the window channel inserts. I had to re-use all of the brackets from the old divider channel (between the front of the glass & the quarter window), and they were all riveted in. Drilled them out & installed them in the new channel with these 2-sided brass rivets from Michael's that are really meant for textiles - we'll see how well they hold up; I also got tiny Du-Bro flush-mounted 3/32" bolts & nylon nuts in case they don't. Which led to tonight's headache: installing the rear channel insert, which is soft metal with the fuzzies lining a U-channel. The kit, which was about $200 & came with zero instructions, included these fasteners that are just...jammed into the rubber on the back side of the channel (they have two stabby bits); the other side of this fastener is a spring-steel split button-looking thing that is supposed to snap into a hole on a steel tab welded up in the door frame at the bottom of the channel. Apparently through the liberal employment of hulk hand squeezin' strength and foul language. Which didn't work, and was followed by: - screwdriver & ball peen; hunk of wood stuck in the channel, and a C-clamp.  All I succeeded in doing was to beat up the piece I was trying to install (part of the rebuilt divider is visible in the foreground),  and literally dishing the steel mounts/tabs up in the channel in the window perimeter of the door frame. These fuckers will not snap in. The stabby parts don't really hold to the back of the insert, so I'm scratching my head over that...even if I got these retainers snapped into the channel, the part I'm installing would just fall out anyway. I wrote to the manufacturer, but my expectations are low. I may just jam 'em up in there with wonder-workin' butyl tape. Also thinking of some kind of low-profile sheetmetal or machine screw - though I'd need to figure out some kind of threaded (nylon?) insert for machine...The hole is about 3/16, and I can't really get to the back side of 3 of the 5 mounting points. I'm open to suggestions. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 28, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2021 03:45
|
|
|
It's been two weeks+ Got the window channels & fuzzies in. Also the door seals. On the channels: After talking to a number of folks, including the upholstery guy that did the top on my Bonneville, the options \came down to: - adhesive - #6 flush-head sheet-metal screws - nothing at all. The upholsterer's other tip was valuable: don't worry about securing the channel insert into the channel just yet: get it in, it'll stick in place, and install the sill fuzzies/felts, the glass, and get it going. You'll need the slack to be certain the curve is right where it transitions from vertical to horizontal. Well, getting the rest of it assembled was a relative breeze, and I haven't yet used any fasteners at all. The raised glass secures it and,so far, it doesn't slip when the windows are lowered. I marked off the locations for drilling through if needed, and a couple of sheet-metal screws will be inserted if it moves. I was able to get the window cranks and door levers installed by using a Dremel with a very thin cutting wheel to 'clean out' the mashed teeth on the crank shafts.  This allowed the cranks and levers to be fully seated on the shafts - which turned out to be the reason they stripped out: once the splines get bitched, the sockets won't seat all the way, and the poor seating exacerbates the problem until they don't work at all...so even though some teeth are lost in the re-shaping process, having them fully engaged seems to be the chief factor. Next, installed the door gaskets. These have only four retainers that push into the shell at the bottom of the door. The other 95% is held in place with 3m weatherstrip adhesive (08008). This stuff is perfect for installing rubber to steel, as it tacks up nicely. The easiest and quickest way to install a weatherstrip is to - tape it in place temporarily; - in 2-foot sections, run a thin bead of adhesive on the metal, and let it sit for about 15-seconds; - press the gasket in place. It'll stick. There are a couple of areas where the gasket has to be forced slightly into a curve. For those spots: -apply adhesive to the steel; -press the gasket in and immediately pull it off; -count to 5; -stick it back on. It ain't going anywhere. The seller (Dennis Carpenter) must have been getting a lot of complaints about doors not shutting properly, as they included a note explaining that the nice new gasket that you just installed isn't all flattened & beat like the old one was (or missing entirely) so yes, the doors may not want to close all the way and will require some brio, they will eventually settle in. Which is great if you installed them correctly. I did not on the driver's door. I got them on the correct doors - they are helpfully marked - but I installed the driver's side one backwards, which was discovered when I went to shut the door for the first time and nope. Turns out the hinge side rubber is twice as thick as the latch side. poo poo. I was so focused on gluing them in that i didn't notice. I ordered another set and will be replacing that one; I pared it down with a razor but it still requires so much force to close that it occasionally pops the regulator arm right off the window track roller, and the window drops to the bottom of the run: - SLAM - ~thunk~ poo poo. *opens door panel & re-mounts* This past week, new tires were installed. This thing has 16s on the rear & 15s on the front. Try ordering online for that at a tire shop - it's not possible. You can order four of the same rim, or two. Can't order two different rim sizes in the same order. To be fair, I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have four matching wheels. Afterwards, a distinct improvement in handling was noted, though it still wanders some. If I can get a helper to jog the wheel back & forth I'll get under there and start feeling up the linkage: there's a Pitman arm, and two drag link (idler arm) ends. I lubed everything, wrapped the wiring harness in a split cover and secured it to the belly pan. Then I took it to the gas station for the first time. Even though I had the tank out and replaced the top vent hose, there is a major venting issue - can't fill the tank. Got about half-full and gas was literally backing up out of the fill. It settled down by the time I got home. There are two vents: one is on the filler neck, and goes up inside this box in the bed (that protects the neck from cargo in the bed) and one one on top of the tank itself. Being a mid-century vehicle, there is no vapor recovery - these vent into atmosphere. Good news is, the sending unit / gas gauge works. Bad news is I have to drain it again at some point and figure out how the vents are blocked. I drove it around a bit, got it up to 55 - the speedometer has decided to stay sane - and noted some thumping right up my rear end (hopefully, bad shocks) and some...odd higher-speed rotational thing/sound/sensation when I back up (clutch/flywheel/driveshaft/transmission/overactive imagination). Other than that, and the bracing sensation of driving at killing speeds with no seatbelts and 22-gauge sheet as protection, it was fun. Next is installation of windshield wipers, heater/defroster vents, and seatbelts. It's a project to get photos off of my phone & onto this Dell laptop, so bear with me.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2021 16:11
|
|
|
Raluek posted:
Yeah I saw them. Unfortunately, they're not available in NJ. I searched online for a couple hours for someone local to order that way. Best I could do was Goodyear and Mr. Tire, who let me set-up two separate orders for each axle. They, & Tire Rack (also NA in southern NJ) were the exception. Aaannnd today, I figured out the weird rotational noise. Took it out for a couple errands. The steering floated in an odd way on a long curve at 45-MPH that made my bowels watery, but I couldn't duplicate it at lower speeds. So I get home, and it's making this weird grinding rotation noise. I trace it to the rear - and find three lugnuts missing, and the last two loose, on the right rear. Nearly poo poo myself. Jacked it up & reset the wheel, hammered in the two, one spare, & two extras from the original set. I have no idea how that happened, but it's all on me: I took the wheels to the shop & brought them home - the dry rot was so severe I was afraid to take it there. I have a hard time believing that I didn't torque down all 4; the remaining three wheels were fine; I've never owned mag wheels before, maybe there is some idiosyncracy about mounting them that I am unaware of. Or my choice in replacement lugs? These are American Racing wheels, and they came with these weird fluted nuts that require a special socket to remove. Like anti-theft, but on every stud. I bought replacements that took a normal socket, but they also had a shank ahead of the bevel - which I liked, since they fit in the holes on the mags fine and seemed to help center them. The originals are beveled, like a plain lugnut, with no shank. As much as I hate fiddling with the special socket, I'm wondering if I should go back to them. On the other hand, the shanked ones have been on the front wheels for the last three months. It's going in for an alignment in November, but I am also wondering if the loose wheel queered the steering on that last ride. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 18, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2021 01:59
|
|
|
I am not the most experienced at this, but when I was seeking advice from may fronts on this, I was told that the best way was to spray the base coat and let it flash (about 5-minutes) then hit it with the clear coat. There are others here that know far more than me about it. Get some more input & strike a consensus for your particular set of circumstances (paint type, humidity, temp, etc)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2021 23:54
|
|
|
Pre-Holiday/ Really cold Weather Update! Went back to the yard last weekend. Proper dress, cooler weather and a great foliage die-off made it slightly better. Lots of flooded ditches & little ponds detracted. Picked up a number of unique Ford fasteners & screws, two sunvisor frames (impossible to find, especially the passenger side) ...and a front bumper. Had to lay in the mud and juggle the tools since I brought everything, except either a deep-well 3/4" socket -or- a 3/4 box wrench. WTF. There are at least three vans down there with bumpers in various states of mangle; I picked the one that seemed least mangled and also did not require an entrenching tool for prep work (they're all beached without wheels, and getting to the mounting bolts requires a reach in, up & back to hit the bolts). A chrome (mostly) unit off of a '62 Falcon.  (it was tight in there) Two hours later, I had all of the above plus two more instrument clusters, pulled in the fond hope that at least one of them has a fully functional speedo clockwork. Since the bumpers are NLA and rare as hen's teeth, and even the brackets are going for a couple hundred bucks, I'm tempted to go back and grab the other two. Got home, disassembled, gradually squoze the full length of it in my workbench vise to get the worst of the dents & ripples out; wirewheeled the rusty back side, encapsulated the remaining rust & undercoated it  cleaned up the bolts, mounts & tow hooks & painted them as well. Slipped it in:  The seatbelt sets arrived, so tomorrow I'll be figuring out where the mounts for them will go, and hopefully will have all of the safety gear done by tomorrow night. The side mirrors make a huge difference, and the $12 sucker-mounted center rearview means a huge field-of-view. The interior is pretty much there. Soon I'll get more time behind the wheel running errands, and start getting a real feel for it. I have one defroster vent in, and the heat works great! 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 15, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2021 04:44
|
|
|
Nice! You spot it directly? The Oldsmobile wheel covers actually look good! It’s winter, it’s starting to get cold here in south Jersey; even snowed today. The truck has been slumbering for the last few weeks. In early October, I was able to mount a pair of 3-point seat-belts picked up online. It's tough enough to arrest forward motion, but cheaply-made all the same. Should I keep this, I'll try to pull a set of belts from a yard car. May also try to replace the seats with something that can be tilted forward (coupe seats) because it is impossible to get behind the seats, with all that lovely space back there - and the driver's seat has to be removed to get to the battery. Good luck if you need a jump. The seat belts provide a great deal of peace of mind when driving it, now. Granted, any front-end hit over 35-MPH may make me a paraplegic... It's funny, in that until 2000, I never wore seat belts (except in a Jeep CJ or anything else without doors). I can't imagine doing that now. I still need to pull the tank again, replace the sending unit & O-ring to stop the leak that develops when the fuel level hits the sending unit cap, and make sure all of the venting is clear in high hopes that I can solve the filling issue. Also am having fits over the automatic choke and am seriously contemplating making it a manual choke again. Then decision time. Keep or sell? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jan 5, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2022 22:35
|
|
|
I'm going to have to pull the tank, eventually, to resolve its issues. The last issue keeping this from being a DD is the carburetor/choke issue. I can't get the automatic choke to set right. When it's adjusted properly for cold start, it won't hop off of the cam once it's warmed up. When I adjust it at operating temp to unload the choke, it won't reset all the way up the cam for high idle at cold start. I am seriously thinking of reinstalling a manual choke. It's a Motorcraft YFA-type 1-lunger:    I can get a repro for about $100, which was a pleasant surprise. The ones I'm looking at on eBay all have electric chokes and a vacuum choke pull-off. I'm tempted to throw a new carb at it, especially since this one appears to be leaking slowly at the top gasket. I have tried adjusting the high-speed idle screw, it seems to be correct, but am flummoxed by the inability to get the cam to behave. I can't rule out that the choke is defective in some way, or that the lack of a stove line or pull-off could be an issue (although there's no place to install either on the current carb) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Feb 21, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2022 18:37
|
|
|
*looks at calendar pages flying off* drat Have been tooling around a bit trying to drain the tank & get comfortable with the beast. Today: installed an electric choke. Found a great power source for it: the small lug on the alternator, which is only energized when the alternator is turning. It may have solved that issue- will report tomorrow. Then tackled a long-time leak on the output side of the fuel pump. Either the flare on the (ancient) hard-line to the carburetor is warped a little, or there’s some (non-obvious) fault in the pump side. The flare nut was really stiff, and because of the location down in the doghouse, it’s tight. I put down a paper towel to catch fuel spillage then loosened it with a box wrench and proceeded to set the truck on fire. That was a fun hot minute. There was a spark, and next thing I’m grabbing the flaming paper towel and flinging it behind me into the driveway. A merry fire on top of the fuel pump continued, unfazed. Yes, of course I tried to blow out a gasoline fire. Ten seconds later I’m in the kitchen, grabbing the full electric teakettle (I fill the cat’s water bowls with it, so keep it topped off) It was juuust enough water to put it out. The only non-ego damage: roasted insulation on two wires, later clipped out. What Happened: there’s little room to swing a wrench, and I had it angled up a bit…and on one pass, hit the BATT lug on the starter solenoid, so that 450 cold-cranking amps went straight to the fuel pump. Beautiful. Exhibit A: starter solenoid lurking in the background: I can’t reach the battery terminals without unbolting the driver’s seat and removing it, to access the battery box…so I removed the battery lead from the solenoid assembly to finish up (Teflon tape, order a new hard-line). Added coolant and a quart of 10-40. Haven’t driven it that many miles. I am thinking that the valve seals &/or guides are worn. It doesn’t vent oil through the cap (I.e. no backpressure from worn rings). Eventually I’ll do a wet-dry compression test. Also: need to adjust the valves & maybe change the plugs; it runs a little tiny bit rough under load. Thinking seriously of keeping this thing. I’ve been practicing true MiG welding, using leftover keg CO2 as a shielding gas. Almost have the cheap Harbor Freight welder dialed in. Also picked up a RIGID 3” cordless rotary cutter (because I now have five batteries for it, courtesy of my neighbor) and it does a good job cutting .22 ga. sheetmetal…for use at the yard to cut off bits I need. My only gripe is the overload trips after about ten seconds.  Used it to cut slots in left-over sheet to practice welding. Just have to try not to set my garage on fire as it’s been too cold, or too windy, to weld outside. Pictures to follow! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Feb 21, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2022 05:47
|
|
|
Think I got it at...Harbor Freight.  When I go get my bottle of 75/25, I'll see if I can get a small spool of good name-brand solid and try it. I should note that the poor tortured sheetmetal, there shows every weld I've made so far; about ten of them were made during the dialing-in process. The rest of them show how much further I have to go.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2022 07:13
|
|
|
Ja, many car shows here require them; I have a small one mounted in my Bonneville : Though it might only buy a little time until I can escape, or until 900 other car guys show up with their tiny bottles. Making progress as we move through March. What's new? - Got the electric choke installed and it SOLVED EVERYTHING. Starts great when cold, idle drops down nicely. drat, that was easy. Installed new shocks, which eliminated most of the loud knocks. I have one remaining, which is probably a spring insulator. So, went ahead and dropped $1700 on all new leaf springs, shackles, and mounts. Finally ran it out of gas! Pulled the tank without getting saturated;  Replaced the sending unit & seal, after blowing compressed air through all of the vent tubes  Hard to believe, but that OEM unit actually worked briefly. The filter screen had probably dissolved by the time Ford was President. Scrubbed the opening with a brass brush to promote seal and avoid self-immolation - lots of vapors floating round.  and, Fin.  Success! https://i.imgur.com/sUAIVZM.mp4 The whole job took under an hour. It helped that I had replaced the rubber collar from the fill tube to the tank - it just slid out of the way so the fill tube could be left untouched. Two strap bolts, one fuel hose, pull off signal wire. Boom. The first project I started, though - and is still ongoing - is repair/restoration of the tailgate. Econoline pickup tailgates are extremely rare; they were an option, so many units were sold without them; time and attrition have limited available stock to the point that something dredged out of a pond after 40-years can still fetch $500. Nuts. Like the rest of the truck, Bondo Michelangelo worked his magic in abundance; In keeping with the rest of the truck, the sins hidden by the bondo were strangely minor. No weld! only Bondo!  This is what I started with...there was a piece of diamond-plate wrapped around the bottom tailgate hinge/rolled steel; it was mostly cosmetic. The underlying steel is heavily perforated and has (a strangely upward) bow in it. The 'ripped' part there is where the centered single-thickness steel panel is tacked to the frame. When standing, the gate is hollow, so water can get in and sit at this apex and it just...rusted out along that apex seam. There are air gaps at the top of the left and right edges, where water (and wasps) entered. Dug a ton of old wasp nest out.  After a test cut (that accidentally went through to the other side) I got a better idea of the build, and so how to remove & prep for repair   This is what the flip side looks like (and a good look at the cheesy roll hinge):  I've been beavering away on stripping the rest of the paint. I ordered a patch piece for a '67 Bronco tailgate that should be moddable to replace the roll. One option is to snap it right over the existing, then spotweld it in place. I do not like layering metal that way, and the bow along its run may make that impossible (since that roll hinge is supposed to be straight), so I will probably cut out as much as possible. I have a good-sized sheet of 16-GA steel - which is what this is - so I should have enough to repair the entire thing. The Mig welds 16-GA just fine, and CO2 works well. I've been filling in small holes all over the place:    and am increasingly confident that I can weld this back. The one issue with that long patch on the back: there's a wave in the existing steel. I have to find a way to straighten it before welding in the patch.  I know it looks like some hack added it, but that roll-hinge section came like that from the factory. Almost done stripping it; primed to avoid flash rust. Last thing was to cut off the bushings for the hinge pegs. They were firmly rusted on:   I'm hopeful that the tailgate will be ready within a week or two. After that we'll start on grinding the bondo off the rest of it, and do a detailed survey of the rust holes that have to be welded around the windshield and down along to front end. The windshield will have to come out for that, and I may have a local glass shop to do it (all of the window gaskets are shot to hell, anyway). Also in the process of modding one of the spare instrument cluster tubs to take three modern gauges, instead of tying up my cupholder/phone holder/USB charger ports location with the cheap triple set. ***** My one engine issue: This 1978 250ci L6 smokes like an old Trabant...but only when it gets good & hot. For the first ten minutes or so, not a wisp, and a good, clean, full burn. Sit in line at CVS long enough, though, and it gets positively Bondian: https://i.imgur.com/LTAGiit.mp4 (the Jeep actually backed up & away after that cloud emitted) I will be running a wet/dry compression test & pulling the plugs at some point, so yeah, that's the only way to really know...but I suspect valve guides / seals. In the absolute worst case, I can score a remanufactured 240 or possibly a 300 long block for less than $2500 delivered...but am hoping it's a head issue. Thoughts? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Mar 12, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2022 06:25
|
|
|
I plan on razoring out the windshield, since that's where most of the metalworking is required and the gaskets have to be replaced anyway (although none of them are leaking, shrunken & hard as they are). First, I need a safe place to store it - sucker's huge. I can cut out all of the glass that way, but I have no long-term indoor storage, so once the windshield's out, it'll probably stay out, and I can remove the rest when I'm ready to paint it. I'm sending it to a glass shop to have it all installed, though. I did a windshield on a Dart and that thing leaked like a sieve. And about painting: I can send it to MAACO and have them do a cheapie job, once all of the glass is removed - but I'm thinking of rattle-canning the whole thing. I get the protection it''ll need, it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper, and, if it doesn't hold up down the road, I can get a pro job of a close matching color with the glass in. Yesterday, I clamped a piece of steel angle iron near the wavy edge and tack-welded it in. Made a bit of a hash of it as I got most of the way through it - puzzled that the welds weren't holding well - when I realized that I forgot to turn on the shielding gas.  It's straight at least, or straight enough...Have cut out a patch piece for that long repair, But first, I have to cut out a smaller rusted/cheesy bit at the front face of the gate, and weld in a patch while I have access to both sides; then grind, prime & seal the interior of the gate, and then weld in the long repair. If that gets done today (HAH) the Bronco roll hinge patch is supposed to come in this afternoon, and, hopefully, I can figure out a process to artfully replace that bit...then a couple of small frame patches, left and right, to tie the vertical frame boxes to the new roll hinge. Then, paint & figure out the best hinge/bushing solution. At the same time I have prepped the 'new' instrument tub (cleaned & painted) and am awaiting a smaller diameter gauge set. Two inch gauges are too large, so 1.5" gauges have been ordered. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Mar 14, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2022 16:50
|
|
|
Spent the last two days doing amateur welding. Amateur welding is very similar to amateur drywall joint compounding: trowel on a ton, and buzz it off. In my case, it's booger-weld it to death & grind, baby, grind. Still waiting on the roll-hinge patch, so we dealt with a smaller area on the outside:  Originally, I was going to tack a plate on the inside (which was accessible after I sectioned the front side) and surface it with Bondo. Which would probably be fine...but why bondo when steel will do? So I cut out a piece of 16-GA stock & bent it in a vise, & cut out the rot, and tacked it in:  Then ground it down.  That was yesterday. Today, worked on the inside: finished priming and coating the void...  ...and tacked in the sheet - which took two tries to get it aligned correctly:  and tack & weld & weld & weld. And grind. And weld. Repeat several times.  Fin.  The finish is OK for my purposes. Once the hinge is done, this side's going to get a few more coats of primer & top coat - probably whatever I have lying around - followed by some kind of heavy pickup bed treatment like Rhino Liner, from a can. So, the aesthetic sins will be covered. It doesn't really show, but time & experience is the teacher, and my welds are improving somewhat. The 1-1/2" gauge cluster set came in, so while we're waiting for the roll hinge patch, I'll probably get started mounting them in the tub. I may need access to a 4-foot sheetmetal brake to deal with that last big cheesy section above the roll. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 16, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2022 04:09
|
|
|
While waiting for the roll patch, worked on the body and the modded instrument panel. Decided to grind off the bondo on the front end to finally find out what all of that bondo was for. But first: I noticed the front suspension knocking on certain pumps. After getting a friend to rock the thing side-to-side, it was found that the shocks I installed last week are too short, and on an upward bounce, the pistons are slamming into their stops. Reinstalled the old shocks, which solved the problem. Turns out that 100% of the knocking was coming from the rear shocks. Broke out my last three grinding wheels and had at it:  Good lord. There were pounds & pounds of it. So much that after about five minutes, I couldn't see poo poo, and had to break out the air: https://i.imgur.com/oIamKVA.mp4 Repeat three times! To get to this:  Looks fine. There is an area, roughly about the circumference of a bowling ball, where someone, from inside the cab, hammered the hell out of what must've been an impact dent. I keep picturing a leprechaun with the world's tiniest rock hammer. Or an anger-management issue.  For this: a five-gallon bucket of bondo. Anyway, we end the day, several pounds lighter.  Tomorrow: let's see if I can drill a 1-1/2" hole through thick sheetmetal without unfortunate side-effects or results.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2022 06:26
|
|
|
Oh, yeah. Biggest one I could find. That was to drill out the lower left and right holes, which originally held idiot lights for oil and amperage, and were the same size as those three in the middle.  Took them out to 1-3/8". Made a godawful commotion. Had to screw the tub down to a 2x8 plank, and, along with eye- and earpro, wore gloves to hold it still. The results were worth it:  Used 1-1/2" schedule 40 to make spacer rings, then used the factory (Auto-meter) clamps to secure 'em to the back. Tomorrow: sorting the wiring; all of the (+) to each gauge, as well as the illumination runs for all, can be tied into two leads. Grounds can be tied right to the back of the tub with a screw. Illumination is already pig-tailed to one of the dash light sockets. Just need individual leads for the signal wires. Should be straightforward to re-locate them from the existing gauge set. I'm thinking of being lazy & not changing out the temp or oil pressure sending units. These gauges are Autometers, and came (of course) with their own sending units, but I suspect that they all operate within the same voltage ranges. OTOH, maybe not, and I don't want to blow out this set. The fuel gauge, by the way, remains factory. It works; it stays. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Mar 21, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2022 04:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 14:25 |
|
|
drat, Ferremit, the used tires & rebuilt bucket look amazing! The roll hinge repair patch came in!  ... It doesn't fit   Guess I'm going to have to fabricate something out of 1" thick-walled pipe & 16-GA. A trip to Fazzio's is in my future. Thinking of getting several lengths and just...hammering one through to see if it can be straightened. I drowned my sorrows by re-painting the instrument panel cover with some left-over Tamiya modelling paint.  PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Mar 22, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2022 01:49
|
|