Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PainterofCrap posted:

I would prefer to run it with a mechanical fuel pump. I suspect I need a new fuel line. Is there any advantage to leaving an electric fuel pump on the line?

If you ever run it dry on gas, you can just let the pump refill the bowls before you crank it forever?

That's about all I can think of.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PainterofCrap posted:

If the ammeter involves routing the current main through it, I am not installing it; however, it appears to have a really thin wire, so I'm assuming for now that it operates like a glorified voltmeter. I'll probably fuse it with at least a 10-A glass inline, though. Maybe 5-A if the wire's really thin.

It (hopefully) also has a current shunt that gets installed in a more sane place, in which case the gauge itself would just be a voltmeter calibrated to read the voltage drop on that shunt and report that in terms of amperage.

But the factory ammeter in my Opel GT is an integral junction for the entire goddamn harness :negative:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Voltmeters are fine, you can still judge the health of a system with one. Instead of looking for +/- amps, you're looking for 14V vs not 14V. Not quite as obvious if something has gone wrong, but better than nothing.

I feed mine on the same 12V switched that powers the rest of the gauge cluster. Just needs 12V and ground after all.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I like that support strategy with the riveted strips. My C10's inner fenderwells, especially the passenger side, have similar rot on the front lip only.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yup, worked great for finding a matching set of tires in 245/45R20 and 275/40R20 for my C10.

Staggered wheel diameters are a thing even on some factory fitments - C5 Z06 has 17s on the front and 18s on the rear.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





There's also a factory Toyota "part" that includes H4 housings and a relay harness, 81110-60P70. Looks like if your Toyota dealer has a discounted online parts system you can probably get it around $50 picked up at the dealer counter after taxes: https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'd say continue on with what you're working on but if you just want to verify spline type, seems like ordering an inexpensive aftermarket steering wheel adapter from a place that takes returns might be a good play.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





StormDrain posted:

Lol at the durablock box, I have the same one probably and I do not like to see it. Nothing about that box artwork appeals to me. It is not a box of honor. No good deeds are commemorated in its image.

It looks like a crappy video game you'd find in the $5 bin at CompUSA in 1998.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That paint does look awesome but my worry would forever be "how well does it stick". The "cheap" paintjob on my C10 20+ years ago flakes if you even look at it funny, but the shop that did it did an absolutely terrible job of doing any further prep after we delivered the truck as an already-stripped roller. As in I have my doubts that they even washed it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply