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Roundboy posted:The z screws, yes, are the reason for the height limit and the (lack) of availability and price. It's hard to get quality ones of that size You can do both, get a binky and print an independent enclosure for it until it's ready to go into the ercf.
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Apr 23, 2024 06:55
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deimos posted:get a binky Did a toddler post this? 
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Apr 23, 2024 20:56
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I was recently given an Elegoo Mars v1 resin printer. I understand that I need to ventilate the space (doing it outside under cover) and wear a respirator and gloves and a face shield when necessary. I've cleaned it up and replaced the film on the resin tray. I've got chitubox installed and I've sliced up a few models with supports... Should I start with something small and simple before trying to go all-in on a minifig of some sort? Is there a good reference document or ebook I can read for resin printing?
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Apr 24, 2024 00:07
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Gaukler posted:The reason here is that 2.4 kits are paradoxically cheaper than tridents. Gaukler posted:Gonna add on to this, not only are trident kits more expensive, but they’re also out of stock almost everywhere. What is it about the trident BOM that makes it harder to source? The Z screws? Yeah, it's the Z screws. Belts are cheaper than leadscrews. Also... They're also a part you can fudge if you really want to. If I were self sourcing, I'd absolutely be buying couplers, more 2020, and longer leadscrews and do a taller Trident. More room for fun additions to the printer is always good. (Think in chamber spool holder, under bed fans, nevermore, lights... )But kits.. aren't gonna do that for you, usually. So.... Since it's a $100 difference, do understand the 2.4 is a more complex build, has more kinks to printing, and more complex to tune. Absolutely a hill you can climb, it's just taller than a bed dropping design.
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Apr 24, 2024 00:13
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:I was recently given an Elegoo Mars v1 resin printer. Before you pour resin into the vat, a few considerations: Have you verified the screen works? Have you levelled the build plate? Is the temperature of the space the printer lives in above 68F/20C? If you answer 'yes' to all three of these questions, pour some resin and check out the Cones of Calibration from TableflipFoundry to get your settings dialed in. Also, feel free to ask question in the 3D Printing for Tabletop thread, we're mostly resin over there. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573 BlackIronHeart fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 00:15
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Did a toddler post this? I know this is a joke, but for reference: https://github.com/mneuhaus/EnragedRabbitProject/tree/main/usermods/Binky And for some reason I can't find the standalone filament sensor based on this I think this was it https://www.printables.com/model/389504-ercf-smart-filament-motion-sensor deimos fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 02:14
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Nerobro posted:Yeah, it's the Z screws. Belts are cheaper than leadscrews. Also... They're also a part you can fudge if you really want to. If I were self sourcing, I'd absolutely be buying couplers, more 2020, and longer leadscrews and do a taller Trident. More room for fun additions to the printer is always good. (Think in chamber spool holder, under bed fans, nevermore, lights... )But kits.. aren't gonna do that for you, usually. Yeah I’m okay with the complexity, and I don’t think I’d be able to self-source a trident for $800 shipped with a bunch of upgrades (Magic Phoenix Cock and Ball Torture). However if they had their trident kit in stock I probably would strongly consider it.
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Apr 24, 2024 02:26
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hi goons i was given an ender pro 3. i don't know anything about how a 3d printer works. when i try and print, for whatever reason, the prints start like a full two inches off the bed and it sucks. i've been having a very hard time fixing this.
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Apr 24, 2024 15:05
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Ominous Jazz posted:hi goons Check and see if the z limit switch is in a plausible looking place. And try auto homing it. Otherwise, when it starts, go into “tune” and “baby step Z” and you can incrementally lower it (don’t go too fast or you can crash the nozzle into the bed and gouge it). Look for a good level of “squish” on the initial layer. Add a skirt or brim in your slicer to give you more time to do this before the print itself starts. If you take down the value you used the baby step you should be able to set a new z offset value… somewhere so it starts at the new height
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Apr 24, 2024 19:28
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Z screws may also be binding.
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Apr 24, 2024 19:34
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what does that mean
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Apr 24, 2024 20:37
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"Z" is the up and down direction for 3D printers. In other words, it's the direction you're trying to fix on your printer. I hope that helps. Edit: and if you're wondering, X and Y are the directions on the bed. Remember drawing graphs in your high school math? That's all a 3D printer does: drawing 2D lines one layer at a time on top of each other. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 20:59
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deimos posted:Z screws may also be binding. Ominous Jazz posted:what does that mean Stock ender 3 pro has a single z-screw on the back left of the printer, it controls the up/down motion. There should be a Z limit switch as your print head lowers that triggers to prevent your nozzle from crashing into the build surface. You should look up a youtube video on leveling your bed.
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Apr 24, 2024 21:12
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If you didn't understand any of that, I very strongly suggest spending some (a lot of) time on YouTube looking for videos like "3d printer basics" or "Ender 3 beginner". There are a whooooooole bunch of little details you need to know in order to run a printer, otherwise you'll just be flailing around and getting frustrated because nothing's working right. That's not to say that you can't ask questions here, but we're not going to be all that helpful to you if you don't know the terminology.
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Apr 24, 2024 21:55
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You get potentially less snarky shitposting and potentially more legitimate helpful advice if you make it clear that you have made the effort to educate yourself. :-)
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Apr 24, 2024 22:00
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Ominous Jazz posted:what does that mean The "Z" direction is up/down, towards and away from the bed. During printing, the head should be just barely above the bed, so that the extruded filament sticks to the bed where it's placed, instead of floating through the air down to the bed or getting ground into the bed's surface. If it's trying to print while multiple inches above the bed, the printer is either extremely miscalibrated, or the print head is getting stuck when it moves up and down the Z-direction screw, or there's something wrong with the switch that signals to the printer that the head has reached the bottom of the Z screw. You can try following a guide like this one, but if you find that you can't direct the head to move to near the bed, there's something mechanically wrong with the printer that needs to be fixed. The Chairman fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 22:09
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Honestly, when getting an old Ender 3 pro (I say this as someone with two of them, which have been almost entirely rebuilt at this point) a pretty good starting place is an assembly video. Basically follow along with that and compare every aspect of the printer you got to what a new one would look like being assembled. Most likely there are... issues.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:16
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Another new thing on Makerworld: looks like an online SCAD editor https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/parametricModelMaker
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Apr 25, 2024 02:51
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Any practical advice for printing TPU? Lots of cautions out there of it being a sponge, clogging gears, and getting stuck in bowden tubes. I'm still pretty new to printing and am having success with PLA, but I want to make a couple squishy things and I'm unclear how big a ramp in difficulty this is. If it matters, I'm using a prusa mini. The prusa docs suggest loosening the idler, but gives no specifics. Just trial and error it?
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Apr 25, 2024 16:13
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xzzy posted:Any practical advice for printing TPU? Lots of cautions out there of it being a sponge, clogging gears, and getting stuck in bowden tubes. I'm still pretty new to printing and am having success with PLA, but I want to make a couple squishy things and I'm unclear how big a ramp in difficulty this is. A prusa mini using prusa slicer should have no problems if you are using a filament they have presets for. gently caress with nothing, use the defaults, be happy.
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Apr 25, 2024 18:24
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armorer posted:Honestly, when getting an old Ender 3 pro (I say this as someone with two of them, which have been almost entirely rebuilt at this point) a pretty good starting place is an assembly video. . Even though I know how mine is put together, I like to do this when I'm rebuilding mine just to get a refresher on the order in which to tighten everything down. It's worked well for me so far.
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Apr 25, 2024 19:06
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Some Pinko Commie posted:A prusa mini using prusa slicer should have no problems if you are using a filament they have presets for. And if you do gently caress with anything, make it slower.
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Apr 25, 2024 20:23
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Is there any hope for extracting a nozzle with a broken off head? Or is this as hopeless as extracting broken bolts on a car? Luckily I had a spare head and I already installed it. I was wondering if I should just throw the old one away or not.
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Apr 25, 2024 22:45
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kid sinister posted:Is there any hope for extracting a nozzle with a broken off head? Or is this as hopeless as extracting broken bolts on a car? Luckily I had a spare head and I already installed it. I was wondering if I should just throw the old one away or not. I imagine you might be able to remove it using a screw extractor kit. Probably depends on the material the nozzle is made of though.
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Apr 25, 2024 23:05
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Hello all. I recently got a Neptune 4 Pro, I’ve watched a ton of videos which helped me build it, and I’m running into what I think are problems with the bed leveling. I haven’t printed anything yet but the screen that shows the level of my bed looks waaaay more off than the walkthroughs I’ve been watching and I assume that is bad. I’ve been fiddling with knobs and feeling the printer put pressure on a piece of paper but not TOO much pressure for the better part of two hours and I’m not sure what I’m missing. 
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Apr 26, 2024 03:53
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What settings do I need to change in order to print glow in the dark filament? I got a wider, hardened nozzle, 0.6 vs the normal 0.4 for my printer. It's a Sovol SV07 that takes K1 nozzles. First off, this filament refuses to stick, no matter how much glue stick I use. Second, what Cura settings should I use for a wider nozzle?
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Apr 26, 2024 04:25
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kid sinister posted:What settings do I need to change in order to print glow in the dark filament? I got a wider, hardened nozzle, 0.6 vs the normal 0.4 for my printer. It's a Sovol SV07 that takes K1 nozzles. Depending on the nozzle material you will want to print significantly hotter (anywhere between 10 and 25 degrees hotter). Not sure what cura changes you will need to make but I would try printing with a known filament (preferably cheaper) and getting that to print well with the new nozzle then switching to the glow in the dark filament and calibrate that one.
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Apr 26, 2024 06:13
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Hello all. I recently got a Neptune 4 Pro, I’ve watched a ton of videos which helped me build it, and I’m running into what I think are problems with the bed leveling. I haven’t printed anything yet but the screen that shows the level of my bed looks waaaay more off than the walkthroughs I’ve been watching and I assume that is bad. I’ve been fiddling with knobs and feeling the printer put pressure on a piece of paper but not TOO much pressure for the better part of two hours and I’m not sure what I’m missing. Yeah, that left side is way off! The paper method isn't bad but using paper is less than optimal. I picked up some feeler gauges from Autozone and I'll slip a 0.178 mm gauge under my nozzle until it gets pinched.
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Apr 26, 2024 06:36
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Neat. Bambu has an ABS-GF filament now.
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Apr 26, 2024 17:21
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I can print an anti-lock brake system for my girlfriend! Finally!!
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Apr 26, 2024 17:45
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The Eyes Have It posted:Neat. Bambu has an ABS-GF filament now. I did not realize we needed gluten free abs
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Apr 26, 2024 17:53
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The Eyes Have It posted:Neat. Bambu has an ABS-GF filament now. I could not find what percent of fibers it has. Also the fact that the HDT is 12 degrees higher than their regular ABS is weird. I suspect their ABS herbs and spices are different as well. Ugly filaments has a really good GF filament with long fibers, it's... Really ugly.
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Apr 26, 2024 17:54
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deimos posted:Depending on the nozzle material you will want to print significantly hotter (anywhere between 10 and 25 degrees hotter). Not sure what cura changes you will need to make but I would try printing with a known filament (preferably cheaper) and getting that to print well with the new nozzle then switching to the glow in the dark filament and calibrate that one. I got my settings dialed in for printing with a wider nozzle for glow in the dark filament. It's printing pretty well. The problem now is that my prints won't stick! I got my bed at 60C, the max recommended by the filament I'm using. I've tried using glue sticks to no luck. What's left to do? Go beyond the filament's recommendations?
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Apr 27, 2024 00:33
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kid sinister posted:I got my settings dialed in for printing with a wider nozzle for glow in the dark filament. It's printing pretty well. The problem now is that my prints won't stick! I got my bed at 60C, the max recommended by the filament I'm using. I've tried using glue sticks to no luck. What's left to do? Go beyond the filament's recommendations? What material? What printer? Are you controlling drafts? How tall is your first layer?
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Apr 27, 2024 00:59
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kid sinister posted:I got my settings dialed in for printing with a wider nozzle for glow in the dark filament. It's printing pretty well. The problem now is that my prints won't stick! I got my bed at 60C, the max recommended by the filament I'm using. I've tried using glue sticks to no luck. What's left to do? Go beyond the filament's recommendations? Did you fiddle with your nozzle gap/Z-offset after swapping nozzles? Your new one might not be the exact same overall length as the old one, and that can totally throw things off.
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Apr 27, 2024 01:39
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deimos posted:What material? What printer? Are you controlling drafts? How tall is your first layer? Overture glow in the dark PLA. Sovol SV07. What do you mean by "controlling drafts"? My first layer is just the default set up by Cura. Acid Reflux posted:Did you fiddle with your nozzle gap/Z-offset after swapping nozzles? Your new one might not be the exact same overall length as the old one, and that can totally throw things off. ...motherfucker. I forgot. Thank you! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Apr 27, 2024 |
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Apr 27, 2024 01:41
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kid sinister posted:...motherfucker. I forgot. Thank you! No worries, it happens... all the time. I've forgotten what you have for a printer, but a good rule of thumb is to re-tram ("level") the bed, or at least review the nozzle gap/Z-offset (which are actually two completely different things, but have strangely become synonymous over the years) after doing *anything* involving the hot end. When you're dealing with measurements in fractions of millimeters, every little bit counts. 
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Apr 27, 2024 02:09
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