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That’s why I’m asking. Get one and that’s it. I’ll gladly pay a bit extra for peace of mind. I had a Nozzle X a long while ago, and while it worked OK, the non-stick stuff didn’t not stick for that long. (Although that E3DLC coating on the Revos looks different from the Tungsten Sulfide on Nozzle X). Might have been material specific tho, I put a lot of eSun ABS+ through it.
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Mar 25, 2024 09:38
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New and exciting error! How its supposed to look:  How it turned out:  Everything was going fine until it started printing the final lip and internal supports, then it looked like every layer was slightly offset on the X axis. By the time I noticed it and went to stop it, the printer was as far left on the X axis as it could get, wiggling around and extruding plastic into the air. I had about 5 prints in a row work just fine before this one the same day. Was this an error with the slicer code? Or is there something wrong with the X axis motor, causing it to struggle going right? I blasted it with compressed air, but havent done a test print since
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Mar 25, 2024 17:30
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Fashionable Jorts posted:New and exciting error! If I had to bet, your x axis belt is slipping more some reason. Check the tension on that bad boy Could also be skipping due to curling or over extrusion. If the previous layer is knocking your nozzle then that could be adding some extra forces that are causing the layers to shift to the right. I'd maybe keep an eye on it running for clues, but maybe clean your bed and calibrate extrusion multiplier/tempratures for that filament if you haven't already
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Mar 25, 2024 17:40
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Or is there something wrong with the X axis motor, causing it to struggle going right? We call this a "layer shift" - the printer is too dumb to realize the print head is offset however many millimeters from where it's supposed to be and just keeps printing. It does look there were multiple events preventing motion to the right. It's usually not the motor itself. The immediate things to check are belt tension, and I had a factory-assembled prusa start doing layer shifts on the Y axis because the grub screws on the motor pulley had loosened - I fixed it with blue loctite. If the printer is currently unable to move the print head to the right then you have a pretty good opportunity to figure out what the problem is (try different things until the print head is once again able to move to the right).
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Mar 25, 2024 17:47
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mewse posted:It's usually not the motor itself. The immediate things to check are belt tension Yup. Check the knob for the belt and it was hella loose. Doing a test print now to see if that was the whole issue. If it is, I'll find a way to secure it, since I'm assuming it's slowly loosening from the vibration of the machine (when it lifts/retracts on the z axis it likes to vibrate, known issue with this printer) Edit: test print went fine. Thanks for the tip, I'll have to remember to check that before a print. Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 25, 2024 |
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Mar 25, 2024 18:10
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I've never used them, but there are little 3d printed pieces that sit on the belt and tell you, by angle, how much tension is in it. Might be useful.
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Mar 25, 2024 19:03
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That sounds interesting. Have a link or the like?
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Mar 25, 2024 20:15
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(Again, haven't tested any of these myself) You have your choice between ultra-simple: https://www.printables.com/model/135075-belt-tension-gauge And more involved: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2230598
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Mar 25, 2024 20:35
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Yup. Check the knob for the belt and it was hella loose. Doing a test print now to see if that was the whole issue. If it is, I'll find a way to secure it, since I'm assuming it's slowly loosening from the vibration of the machine (when it lifts/retracts on the z axis it likes to vibrate, known issue with this printer) Awesome! Unless your printer has some weird problem that would loosen the belt, it's probably not something you'll have to think about too often. Luckily the belts on these things are pretty stiff, so baring bumping your printer in a bad way it should be pretty static if the associated bolts are tight
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Mar 25, 2024 20:43
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I've come for help! I'm trying to diagnose some new issues. I've been printing glass fiber nylon for multiple years with no issues on my upgraded Creality CR-10s. However now I'm getting crazy oozing and heat creep that only results in a clog once the print is finished. The first time it happened I near fully disassembled and reassembled the hotend to make sure all the connections were tight but the problems persisted. I've always printed the polymaker glass fiber nylon at 280c which is the bottom of their suggested range but I tried reducing it to 270 to see if maybe my thermistor was off and giving me a low reading. That made zero difference. Heres all the upgrades the machine has: Micro Swiss All-Metal-hotend w/ direct drive kit and an A2 hardened steel nozzle a satsana fan shroud with 4020 blower for parts cooling plus a 4010 noctua heatsink fan. In my general troubleshooting inexperience my thoughts are to maybe get a more powerful heatsink fan, upgrade the heatbreak, or both but I feel like that would only solve the heat creep issue. Also to ward off an obvious question, I am tighting all connections again once the hotend is up to temperature.
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Mar 25, 2024 21:38
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King Kambrook posted:Oh wise 3d printing goons, I come to you to help troubleshoot an issue that's been driving me bonkers for days. Found the problem  But really, most of that comes down to how well assembled a given unit was from factory. There are several reviews out there where a teardown of the extruder revealed poor assembly resulting in heat-creep and all sorts of other assorted issues. Quidi just isn't well known in review circles for good build quality for $500+ machines. Especially not with Prusa and Bambulabs around. Ziggy Smalls posted:I've come for help! When was the last time you re-applied thermal paste between the heater block and the barrel on the hotend, to ensure heat actually transfers along the heatbreak to the cooling fins on the heatsink? This area:  Also I hate that hotend design.
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Mar 26, 2024 01:32
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Some Pinko Commie posted:
Brilliant question! Never. That would 100% explain the heat creep. Googling around it looks like boron nitride paste is the go-to. Any chance the heat creep is related to my oozing? I'm open to upgrading the hotend I just don't know what would be compatible with the microswiss direct drive.
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Mar 26, 2024 03:27
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Hello all. The section in the OP is a few years out of date, so I wanted to ask if someone could help me in choosing a PLA 3D printer. I have about $350 or so in my budget for one. I've never had a 3d printer before. Well, technically, I was given a resin one as a gift, but I never took it out of the box and will probably end up selling it. I could print that out on, almost any modern printer. So.. could you. For $350? Sovol SV06 or SV07. Both will have auto bed leveling, which makes things a bit easier. So... we need to talk a bit about what 3d printing is. 3d printers are CNC machines. They do what they're told, and are generally only as good as the person operating them. For a project like that, you're going to need to make sure your parts are exactly to size, so... That means getting your extrusion multipler just right, getting your first layer squish right. And making sure the X, Y, and Z all are accurate. You, CAN, do this. You will need to take care. And eventually you'll get it. Expect to blow a few days getting things ~right~. And google searches will almost universally lead you wrong. You want the Ellis tuning guide, and maybe the califlower.
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Mar 26, 2024 09:46
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Hmm so I opted for the full refund + $80 voucher for my recalled a1, it was my only printer. Am I crazy for thinking about downsizing to the mini? $250 out the door is a pretty sick price and realistically I don't print constantly, just when inspiration or a need strikes.
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Mar 26, 2024 |
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Mar 26, 2024 10:21
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Google Butt posted:Hmm so I opted for the full refund + $80 voucher for my recalled a1, it was my only printer. Am I crazy for thinking about downsizing to the mini? $250 out the door is a pretty sick price and realistically I don't print constantly, just when inspiration or a need strikes. Buy a printer that suits your needs and then buy more printers when it no longer suits your needs. That's what the rest of us do!
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Mar 26, 2024 10:38
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BlackIronHeart posted:Buy a printer that suits your needs and then buy more printers when it no longer suits your needs. That's what the rest of us do! True. Plus I have an extra nozzle, like 6 rolls of filament and filament dryer just collecting dust. Ordered.
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Mar 26, 2024 10:43
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Nerobro posted:I could print that out on, almost any modern printer. So.. could you. I don’t know what some of these words mean but I am a quick learner! I read some reviews of the SV07 plus and I think I may pull the trigger. I obviously don’t plan on printing that monstrosity first thing, but I do want to do it eventually.
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Mar 26, 2024 12:37
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:I don’t know what some of these words mean but I am a quick learner! I read some reviews of the SV07 plus and I think I may pull the trigger. "Plus" just means larger, if the smaller bed will fit all the parts, that's the way to go. "bigger" doesnt' mean better. There's a lot of complications that show up when the beds and frames get larger.
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Mar 26, 2024 12:41
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Hello all. The section in the OP is a few years out of date, so I wanted to ask if someone could help me in choosing a PLA 3D printer. I have about $350 or so in my budget for one. I've never had a 3d printer before. Well, technically, I was given a resin one as a gift, but I never took it out of the box and will probably end up selling it. I've printed a few of the models from this guy, his designs are excellent and chopped up into small enough pieces that you could def print one on like the Bambulab A1 mini which would fall into your price range. These are both printed in PLA.   
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Mar 26, 2024 13:40
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I'd like to make a catch-all tray with a layer of TPU in it to make the surface less slippery. Any tips for modifying this design to do that? I think ideally I'd print the raised portions and a couple solid layers underneath in TPU, with the rest PETG, but the shape seems too complex for me to isolate those parts in Orca Slicer. Unless there's a way to do mixed TPU/PETG between the AMS and external spool on the X1C? That seems like asking for trouble.  https://www.printables.com/model/378100-designer-catch-all-tray-two-versions
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Mar 26, 2024 15:22
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Tiny Timbs posted:I'd like to make a catch-all tray with a layer of TPU in it to make the surface less slippery. Any tips for modifying this design to do that? I think ideally I'd print the raised portions and a couple solid layers underneath in TPU, with the rest PETG, but the shape seems too complex for me to isolate those parts in Orca Slicer. Print it all in TPU?
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Mar 26, 2024 15:27
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I don't wanna
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Mar 26, 2024 15:27
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You can't use the external spool holder and the AMS at the same time, for any reason. The machine won't let you. (e) - I'd think about printing the whole thing in PETG and shooting the top with a coat of Plasti-Dip, it'd probably be a lot less hassle.
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Mar 26, 2024 15:30
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Ok yeah plasti-dip sounds like a great idea, actually.
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Mar 26, 2024 15:35
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you also can't run tpu through the ams
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Mar 26, 2024 15:44
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Weird Anycubic day today.. First I haven't touched 3D printing in like two years, so I'm super out of practice. I figured i'd update to the latest Cithubox before I sliced, ran through the setup wizard and selected the (OG) Anycubic Photon, but the slices it spit out were just visually garbage. They had a good preview image, but even running them through UVTools showed 300 layers of nothing but .. static? Weird. Luckily I still had my old Cithubox too and that produced something usable. Fired up my Photon, levelled it, poured in my two year old resin and crossed my fingers. 30 minutes later I had... a solid block of plastic. Investigated by removing the build plate and doing a dummy print just to see, and I saw that half the screen wasn't displaying, and the other half was inverted. Had no idea what the gently caress so I just pulled the whole thing apart and re-seated the cables and the UV test now showed a proper masked rectangle. Not sure how a printer that's literally been sitting for two years untouched suddenly needs cable re-seating but that's that. Still trying to figure out what the gently caress I did wrong with the new Cithubox though  e: On the bright side, my ancient Elegoo resin printed like a dream. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Mar 26, 2024 |
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Mar 26, 2024 17:34
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Well, maybe 13 is an unlucky number after all. For some reason, when I added plate 13 to this project in OrcaSlicer, it lost sync with the AMS, and the filament slot numbers were all off. So when I sync'd it, it kept the numbers and hosed all the colors. So I just spent the last 15 minutes reassigning the right colors to the right parts. I'm gonna blame loading up the Dune ornithopter model and not checking my settings because that will make me feel better than me loving it up myself.
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Mar 26, 2024 17:59
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mattfl posted:I've printed a few of the models from this guy, his designs are excellent and chopped up into small enough pieces that you could def print one on like the Bambulab A1 mini which would fall into your price range. I've been somewhat surprised by the lack of GunPla styled stuff out there, but I wouldn't be surprised in the least if there was a very healthy community of the stuff and I just missed it. I did see a paid model that looked pretty nice but I'd like to get a better printer before doing anything like that.
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Mar 26, 2024 20:02
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The Eyes Have It posted:Goddamn is prusament PC-CF such a nice filament Hell yeah CF filaments look so good. This is some ancient Colorfabb XT CF-20 used for a set of custom laser tube mounts. Such a flattering finish.  
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Mar 26, 2024 23:48
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Warbird posted:I've been somewhat surprised by the lack of GunPla styled stuff out there, but I wouldn't be surprised in the least if there was a very healthy community of the stuff and I just missed it. I did see a paid model that looked pretty nice but I'd like to get a better printer before doing anything like that. That 3mm resolution gets real freaky for FDM. I print the tail pack for Kyrios pretty successfully, but not a whole lot else. There's a 3d printable polterimous, but that's a paid STL. I also print lots of stands, which works out pretty well.
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Mar 27, 2024 00:11
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Yeah I should do a stand or two.
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Mar 27, 2024 00:56
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Turned out pretty well with a couple coats of plasti dip on the inside, and I got to use my sparkly PETG
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Mar 27, 2024 01:11
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Warbird posted:Yeah I should do a stand or two. The wall stands that mecha gikotsu did on his resin printer.. while are awful in resin, are great in FDM. I have 20+ on the walls in my computer room.
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Mar 27, 2024 01:42
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Tiny Timbs posted:Turned out pretty well with a couple coats of plasti dip on the inside, and I got to use my sparkly PETG wow, that looks great!
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Mar 27, 2024 02:23
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ReelBigLizard posted:Hell yeah CF filaments look so good. I am this close to going pure CF filaments for my cosplay print work because it just looks better without processing, but the AMS makes it a bit difficult to engage with unless I buy bambu CF
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Mar 27, 2024 04:21
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I'm getting back into printing again, waiting on a Bambu P1S to be delivered tomorrow, definitely an upgrade from my CR10S. One thing I'm looking to print is a quick disconnect for a sink faucet so I can connect hoses, etc. to my brewing setup. Since it'll be both hot and cold water running through it, for cooling or cleaning purposes so I'm not worried about food safety, would PLA be ok to print or so I look at something with a higher heat tolerance since hot water will be going through it?
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Mar 27, 2024 10:56
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I REALLY need to re-consider buying an FDM again in the future 
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Mar 27, 2024 11:19
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calandryll posted:I'm getting back into printing again, waiting on a Bambu P1S to be delivered tomorrow, definitely an upgrade from my CR10S. One thing I'm looking to print is a quick disconnect for a sink faucet so I can connect hoses, etc. to my brewing setup. Since it'll be both hot and cold water running through it, for cooling or cleaning purposes so I'm not worried about food safety, would PLA be ok to print or so I look at something with a higher heat tolerance since hot water will be going through it? id' probably do PETG PLA might work for awhile but if you're at full hot you might see some issues.
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Mar 27, 2024 11:40
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calandryll posted:I'm getting back into printing again, waiting on a Bambu P1S to be delivered tomorrow, definitely an upgrade from my CR10S. One thing I'm looking to print is a quick disconnect for a sink faucet so I can connect hoses, etc. to my brewing setup. Since it'll be both hot and cold water running through it, for cooling or cleaning purposes so I'm not worried about food safety, would PLA be ok to print or so I look at something with a higher heat tolerance since hot water will be going through it? PETT if you can find it would be best. Used to be Taulman T-Glase was the brand for it but there may be others out there now.
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Mar 27, 2024 11:45
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ABS is less of a pain in the rear end to print than PET.
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Mar 27, 2024 14:13
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