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Tiny Timbs posted:It's an unsupported, bouncing 1 kg mass held at the end of a rod that can only be printed in a way that makes layer adhesion take all of the load so a PLA part is definitely not going to hold up, especially if the extruder pulls on a light snag I've printed multiple spool holders in PLA and they've been fine for years. Maybe I'm missing something about your particular spool holder situation though.
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Apr 16, 2024 14:36
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There's lots of different ways you could set up spool holders where that wouldn't be an issue but for that specific design mounted in that way I wouldn't go with a 3D printed part
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Apr 16, 2024 14:44
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Tiny Timbs posted:There's lots of different ways you could set up spool holders where that wouldn't be an issue but for that specific design mounted in that way I wouldn't go with a 3D printed part Okay I just scrolled back to make sure I see what's being proposed here, and the linked part at makers world would totally work fine. The design has a roller spool sitting on top of a flat printed block. So most of the weight is going to be held by layers printed in a useful direction, and the bearings in the roller will reduce snag-induced bouncing to almost zero. That thing will 100% hold up just fine for years. I say this as someone who has used a roller mounted PLA printed spool older for years, and never had any issue with it at all. I eventually gave it away because I moved and the new location for my printer doesn't fit it anymore. Since then I have printed two more spool holders in PLA that don't have bearings involved, and they have also held up for over a year now. I think your expectations from a PLA print are way too low. And also others have said, you can bump up the infill percent and wall count a bit if needed. Edit: That all said, the proposed purchase is less than $5, and sometimes just buying a cheap part like this is easier and cheaper than printing your own. armorer fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 15:27
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mattfl posted:Voron friends, has anyone entered the toolchanger rabbit hole yet? The tapchanger looks amazing, saw someone with AWD, the silly thing has 12 steppers. The other problem that hasn't been fixed is with klipper: it can't use different time cycles per hotend so you need a psu that can power ALL hotends at once (and your power cable to the distribution block needs to be beefy).
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Apr 16, 2024 15:29
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Just LOL if you use basic wall and infill settings intended for display prints when printing objects intended for structural/support roles.
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Apr 16, 2024 18:53
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Looks like Sovol is releasing... a Voron? https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv08-3d-printer
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Apr 16, 2024 19:00
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Acid Reflux posted:Looks like Sovol is releasing... a Voron? Nero3d did a "not a review" on this and says it's not a voron. I don't know what he was saying with his video actually. But it looks like it has some teething problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpxruCuhfuc
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Apr 16, 2024 19:05
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For $10k that printer better print PEEK.
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Apr 16, 2024 19:14
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For $10k it better print my firstborn.
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Apr 16, 2024 19:21
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^^ That's a placeholder price until the release date. Intro price is supposed to be around $500. I didn't mean to imply that it was actually a Voron, they've just somewhat blatantly borrowed a few design (and probably at least some functional) elements from one. I'll probably buy one anyway because it's new and it's big and it's cheap. Historically, those are the most common features I tend to look for in printers. Time to start shopping for tables. 
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Apr 16, 2024 19:21
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Acid Reflux posted:^^ That's a placeholder price until the release date. Intro price is supposed to be around $500. I would 100% wait to see what users acutaly have to say Sovol Is VERY hit or miss they have some big hits, they have some big stinkers.
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Apr 16, 2024 20:13
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Well, $100 later and I'm the proud new owner of an out-of-calibration Creality CR-10 v3! The previous owner has a BL-Touch on it but otherwise I think it's pretty much all stock. Came with some extra large (2kg?) rolls of PLA, plus an unopened 1kg roll, a spare hotend, spare build plate, and various other sundries. Update: so far this is going a lot better than expected! It appears old mate removed the z-stop limit switch, attached the BL-Touch probe to the hotend... then never connected it or installed the firmware, lol. I was honestly expecting several afternoons of increasing frustration before inflicting it on my BiL (a software dev who just took delivery of his Prusa mk4) to sort out, but knowing nothing about the printer whatsoever, it only took around an hour to get it cleaned, set up, and starting on a test print. Using Creality's official  firmware my printer now believes it is a CR-10 v2, but the BL-Touch firmware has been installed and it does all the auto-bed levelling and stuff as expected.However, when I go to auto-home it (so that I can set the new z-offset), the nozzle hangs out a good couple mm about the build plate. Starting the print brings it back down to where the probe thinks the bed is, but it's still maybe 1mm too high to get it to adhere to the build plate. I started the Benchy anyways and was able to get it off to an acceptable start after a bit of quick babystep-Z fiddling during the first layer, but would like to get it set up properly to avoid that. What should my next step be? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 20:15
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tater_salad posted:I would 100% wait to see what users acutaly have to say Sovol Is VERY hit or miss they have some big hits, they have some big stinkers. I've owned one of about every printer they've ever made, I know what the stakes are 
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Apr 16, 2024 20:29
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Update: so far this is going a lot better than expected! It appears old mate removed the z-stop limit switch, attached the BL-Touch probe to the hotend... then never connected it or installed the firmware, lol. I was honestly expecting several afternoons of increasing frustration before inflicting it on my BiL (a software dev who just took delivery of his Prusa mk4) to sort out, but knowing nothing about the printer whatsoever, it only took around an hour to get it cleaned, set up, and starting on a test print. In Ye Olde days of 3d Printing I'd tell you to make a dummy 1st layer program that you dial in as it runs until your first layer looks good that ends with M500 to save the baby step offset and then never gently caress with the bed again.
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Apr 16, 2024 21:40
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tater_salad posted:I would 100% wait to see what users acutaly have to say Sovol Is VERY hit or miss they have some big hits, they have some big stinkers. So... it's got issues. It's also not actually released yet. The Next Layer showed off the one he got sent. And he's got some discount codes. Sovol DID use the 2.4 as inspriation, and contacted the voron group about it. They're going to donate $2 per sold SV08 to the voron project. ......... I think... with some good klipper config and profiles it'll be a great printer. Just "as is" it's a mess.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:19
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Nerobro posted:So... it's got issues. It's also not actually released yet. The Next Layer showed off the one he got sent. And he's got some discount codes. If we’re still talking about 3D printing YouTubers we dislike, put The Next Layer at the top of my list. The dude is just an SEO bot.
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Apr 17, 2024 01:13
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Gaukler posted:If we’re still talking about 3D printing YouTubers we dislike, put The Next Layer at the top of my list. The dude is just an SEO bot. Yeah, he wasn't part of my list, though I am subscribed. That's a good description for what he is. Also he's a crypto bro. So... ick. BUT.. his thing on the SV08 is ~real~. and if you're gonna go that way, why pass up a discount. Sadly, he was based out of Isreal, and has been adversely affected by his states .. wonderful.. choices..
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Apr 17, 2024 02:06
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Is there a good, comprehensive, resource for explaining resin slicer anti-aliasing settings? Everything I've found seems to be a couple years and a few versions out of date, and most of it is straight up wrong. Could not for the life of me work out why I was getting way worse layer lines in Lychee over chitubox. Took me days of fiddling with test prints and pixel peeping UVtools to finally realize that Lychee's 'grey offset' has to be at 0% to match chitubox's defaults of '0 - 255' grey scale level.
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Apr 17, 2024 02:11
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We're at the end of our budget year and have to spend money, so I'm getting a bunch of filament spools, and I think this will be the year I dip my toes into TPU. Does this filament hold up well if it's still in the vacuum sealed bags, or would it be foolish to buy 20 kg now if some amount of it won't be used for another 6-9 months?
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Apr 17, 2024 06:39
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20 kilograms? Exactly how big are your toes? It should hold up over time, yes, but if you've never used it before and you don't have a specific plan, that's a shitload of material. Why not start with one or two spools and see how it goes
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Apr 17, 2024 11:54
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Sagebrush posted:20 kilograms? Exactly how big are your toes? I'm guessing they need to use this year's budget so they get the same/more next year.
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Apr 17, 2024 12:25
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Listerine posted:We're at the end of our budget year and have to spend money, so I'm getting a bunch of filament spools, and I think this will be the year I dip my toes into TPU. Does this filament hold up well if it's still in the vacuum sealed bags, or would it be foolish to buy 20 kg now if some amount of it won't be used for another 6-9 months? I bought 2 rolls of NinjaTek TPU in 2019 and used very little on each roll and they have since sat opened in my house since. I threw one of the rolls in my X1C about a month ago and it printed just fine.
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Apr 17, 2024 12:27
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holy crap this was an adventure. A while back I was trying to make a container with a lock, which turns out its not a trivial matter to have threads line up in some end state. Its possible, but it really did end up being a 'move this 5 degrees over' , now a scooch more, etc. All kinds of things affect the end state and it was never perfect. SO I went in a different direction and decided to make a twist & lock mechanism where i know exactly the end point will be.    Maybe if i was better with fusiuon360 I could have made this a bit quicker, but working out tolerances and making a proper part that doesnt completely break when you nudge a face .5mm is really not trivial (for me) Some tweaks needed, but hot drat it feels good to literally take a bunch of 1's and 0's from CAD and hold it.
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Apr 17, 2024 13:38
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3 days till go time on my first booth! i have no idea how much stuff to bring, so weird. Printed up a ton of buildings, minis, random poo poo like that. It's a tabletop gaming convention but it looks like I'm like the only vendor selling minis and 3d printed terrain, so I'm feelin good about makin some cash money
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Apr 17, 2024 15:14
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Looks like the FormLabs Form-4 was announced this morning, with a big focus on speed: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-4/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ch1T15LZeIU
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Apr 17, 2024 15:31
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queeb posted:3 days till go time on my first booth! i have no idea how much stuff to bring, so weird. Printed up a ton of buildings, minis, random poo poo like that. It's a tabletop gaming convention but it looks like I'm like the only vendor selling minis and 3d printed terrain, so I'm feelin good about makin some cash money If you have the ability (and the space at your booth) I’ve seen a vendor at Pokemon TCG shows literally bring a printer or 2 and have it printing a really cool (unlikely to fail) model. The printer running itself seemed to get a lot of people looking at the booth. That dude had way more people looking than others that were just selling models. Good luck!
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Apr 17, 2024 15:46
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:If you have the ability (and the space at your booth) I’ve seen a vendor at Pokemon TCG shows literally bring a printer or 2 and have it printing a really cool (unlikely to fail) model. The printer running itself seemed to get a lot of people looking at the booth. That dude had way more people looking than others that were just selling models. i literally thought about brining my a1 mini and just having it there running off some little terrain bits to sell hahha, I'll probably do that! literally 90% of the stuff i have is little packs of like 3-5 minis for ~15-20 bucks, trying to hit that impulse buy territory, all supportless little monster packs, etc. plus a few bigger models and some singles of cooler hero type minis. then a bunch of terrain queeb fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 16:09
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lol i looked at the vendor list and im the only one there doing minis and terrain, bunch of other stores with like knitted bullshit and some flgs guys and some dice sellers and whatnot, but no other mini/terrain 3d print sellers. which is odd for a tabletop gaming event but vendor booths were only open for a bit and sold out fast so i guess i got lucky! edit: got a banner and some shirts lol 
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Apr 17, 2024 16:59
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Snackmar posted:Looks like the FormLabs Form-4 was announced this morning, with a big focus on speed: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-4/ Yeah cheaper build tray and full build volume prints in about 5 hours is bananas
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Apr 17, 2024 17:08
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I'd consider another $$$$$ formlabs printer if the consumables costs were at least in the same ballpark as stuff from eg elegoo, etc.
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Apr 17, 2024 17:24
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The Eyes Have It posted:I'd consider another $$$$$ formlabs printer if the consumables costs were at least in the same ballpark as stuff from eg elegoo, etc. The resin and vat costs are why I sold my Form 2. The printer and the prints themselves were fantastic, but those consumables were a killer. I'm sure the premium is worth it for industrial applications, but for printing minis I just couldn't justify it any more.
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Apr 17, 2024 17:54
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Sadly it looks like the Form 4 isn't as far towards cheap consumables as I had hoped. Basic resins are easily 2x or more something like Siraya Tech, and anything fancier remains fuckoff expensive. The build vat is still about the same cost as the Form 2 except last much, much longer -- so that part is okay. So... temping but only kinda sorta? I use my Form 2 only once in the blue moon for special jobs, like casting molds from hi-temp resin. It's not worth the cost and hassle if I can do something any other way. I've often thought of selling it and reclaiming the space, just order online from protolabs or xometry when I need something special.
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Apr 17, 2024 18:18
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Yeah they’re uhh extremely not for printing minis. If you need dimensional accuracy, have physical or chemical resistance requirements, and need consistency across batches that’s what it’s for. There is an open materials license, but that’s generally intended for using resins from real engineering companies like Henkel/Loctite, BASF, etc.
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Apr 17, 2024 18:24
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tehsid posted:I'm guessing they need to use this year's budget so they get the same/more next year. This is it- we have to spend the funds, so my full order right now is actually a Prusa XL, accessories for our Bambus, and then whatever left goes to stocking filament. I likely would not go for 20 kg of a filament I haven't used, but there are potentially lots of use cases for us with flexible models. And we may not have budget for plastics next year if something happens and we have to replace all our computers or something else, so getting 5-10 kg of TPU and then not using much of it isn't a huge risk. And if the Prusa doesn't get approved by our purchasing office, that's going to be $4k I'll have to spend elsewhere. queeb posted:i literally thought about brining my a1 mini and just having it there running off some little terrain bits to sell hahha, I'll probably do that! Why not print some small piece, something that finishes in 30-60 min, and when there's 5 min left offer to give it away to someone if they stick around? That way you keep someone lingering and make the booth look busy.
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Apr 17, 2024 20:48
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I think I'm ready to move on from my CR-10 knockoff. It still works okay, but it's really slow. Is the Bambu P1P still a good-to-best-choice if I'm looking for something big, fast, and foolproof?
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Apr 19, 2024 17:14
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Failson posted:I think I'm ready to move on from my CR-10 knockoff. It still works okay, but it's really slow. If you're looking at the P1P, spend the $100 and get the P1S especially if you think you might ever want to use filament that needs an enclosure to print well.
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Apr 19, 2024 17:21
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seconding the P1P over the S.. spend the money now instead of later.
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Apr 19, 2024 17:55
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Nthing the P1S. I'm almost 60kg in now and it's pretty much flawless. AMS is slightly glitchy sometimes but it's still an absolute workhorse.
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Apr 19, 2024 19:15
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Now that there's been a couple of patches, probably going to try the MK3S+ to MK3.5 upgrade this weekend. Here's hoping I don't gently caress anything up....
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Apr 19, 2024 19:56
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Anyone have purchasing experience with Printed Solid, the official US reseller of original Prusa equipment? I would like to think that they are painless to use since Prusa acquired them specifically for US sales, but who knows.
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Apr 19, 2024 21:10
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