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Best bet for screen stuff is to just email elegoo or hit em up on Twitter.
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Jul 25, 2021 03:25
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insta posted:ok cross-platform drama, any other voron discord members annoyed by RoobianGamer yet Why do you think I barely chat there anymore
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Jul 25, 2021 04:32
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Looking at moving, and part of that is going to be more of a dedicated 3d printer space. If I had about a grand Canad an to spend on a better FDM printer what should I be going for? I have multiple resin printers, a souped up ender 3 in an enclosure, and a voron 0.1. I'll mostly be printing wargaming terrain to sell online
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Jul 25, 2021 05:50
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Nerobro posted:Why do I feel a strong troll urge coming on. I mean.. if the community thinks the klipper guys can be annoying..
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Jul 25, 2021 06:48
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mewse posted:I mean.. if the community thinks the klipper guys can be annoying.. they did such a bad job. we're better (worse?) than that. hahah.
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Jul 25, 2021 06:51
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w00tmonger posted:Looking at moving, and part of that is going to be more of a dedicated 3d printer space. If I had about a grand Canad an to spend on a better FDM printer what should I be going for? Voron 2.4 conversion from the one you have?
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Jul 25, 2021 12:28
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What's the largest thing I can print in vase mode I was printing boat hull...sections, about 180x180x225mm in vase mode no problem, then took a hiatius to build RC boat out of said bot hull sections. Now I'm building V2 and the vase came out all... wavey? Several ripples and it "pops" back and forth I think, looking at the gcode from prusaslicer, in the V1 I had an "external perimeter" of 0.90mm, layer height 0.20mm. This was for a build volume of 180x180x225 In the V2, I had 0.45 external perimeter, layer height 0.28.... build volume 220x220x230mm so a fair bit larger Although I'd have to go dig out my digital calipers to be sure if there's any difference. the V2 definitely seems more flimsy to me. V1 was generic amazon brand PLA, V2 is name brand PLA
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Jul 25, 2021 13:13
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w00tmonger posted:Looking at moving, and part of that is going to be more of a dedicated 3d printer space. If I had about a grand Canad an to spend on a better FDM printer what should I be going for? My Prusa MK3+ has become my workhorse for that stuff. Edit: hmmm I looked up a Voron 2.4 build manual and … it looks pretty straightforward??? I built my Prusa MK3 and it wasn’t too bad. This seems about the same level of complexity with the exception of not getting pre-printed parts. Is that accurate? Having done that, I probably won’t have too much trouble, right? Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 14:46
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Dr. Despair posted:Why do you think I barely chat there anymore please open admin tickets about him, even if he's not breaking rules. same with anyone else here who wants gchat back. I've had discussions with the admins many times, and it really is "if people don't open tickets we don't know it's an issue". he caught a mute for several days because of an admin ticket, and i bet if he catches enough mutes he goes away entirely.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:27
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Doctor Zero posted:My Prusa MK3+ has become my workhorse for that stuff. If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3. He also had a custom wiring harness built for him which might be something most people have to do themselves.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:16
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He got a harness made by LINNEO, but what was custom was the termination on the ends. Anyone in the US can get that harness for just about any build from kb3d who is a US reseller.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:07
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mewse posted:If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3. This poo poo totally flew under my radar.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:53
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mewse posted:If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3. He also had a custom wiring harness built for him which might be something most people have to do themselves. Cool thanks. I was thinking to make this sort of a long term, take my time thing. What is more complicated, the wiring? I can handle that and a soldering iron.
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Jul 25, 2021 21:01
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Doctor Zero posted:Cool thanks. I was thinking to make this sort of a long term, take my time thing. I haven't built one myself, just watched maybe half the stream, the most complicated parts seemed like doing the wiring and the heat-set inserts in a lot of parts. Also the heat bed is so powerful it warped the acrylic panel on the bottom of Tom's printer.. if I were building it I'd probably go with a high flow dragon hot end rather than the sponsored one Tom used
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Jul 25, 2021 21:12
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Finally finished printing the drat skirts et al. Also color-corrected the picture a bit to make the pink look as eye-searing as it is in real life. 
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Jul 26, 2021 00:23
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Hadlock posted:What's the largest thing I can print in vase mode Swapped external perimeter from 0.45mm to 0.90, seems to register differently in prusaslicer, even in vase mode  time to kick off another 6 hour test printI keep reading that switching to a 1.0mm nozzle a) give you stronger prints b) dramatically speeds up printing time c) reduces fine detail (important for tiny figurines, etc) I am regularly printing 60%+ of my printer's build volume, in vase mode, an average print for me is ~5.5-9 hours. I do a bunch of post processing, then paint the pieces, then fill them with lead/epoxy so, I don't mind the reduced fine detail, as I'm going to sand it down and paint it anyways TL;DR trying to speed up prints, but when I change the nozzle size in prusaslicer from 0.40 to 1.00 the print speed doesn't go up, stays exactly the same, in this case 6h39m; what are some sane (and maybe some insane) printing Hadlock fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 01:39
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Hadlock posted:Swapped external perimeter from 0.45mm to 0.90, seems to register differently in prusaslicer, even in vase mode Wouldn’t you need to increase speed in your slicer settings as well?
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Jul 26, 2021 01:44
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here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long Here's the stern test piece I'm printing @ 0.90mm external perim width, it'll superglue to the stern ... also added a small brim as that seems to have a huge impact on edge lift  Here4DaGangBang posted:Wouldn’t you need to increase speed in your slicer settings as well? How fast can you go with a 1.0mm? I sort of assumed that the speed of the nozzle couldn't go any faster, but I guess I'm wrong? Ok, I just tried my stern model which is clocking in at 6h39m for 0.4 nozzle, 0.90 external perimeter width, 0.20 layer height, 25mm/s nozzle speed Modified to 1.0, 0.90 ext perim width, 0.20 layer height, 50mm/s nozzle speed.... 6h39m?
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Jul 26, 2021 01:53
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Hadlock posted:here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long Boost your layer height, no sense printing .20 with a 1mm nozzle
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Jul 26, 2021 02:36
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Isn't the whole idea of vase mode that it only prints one wall? Increasing nozzle size would get you a thicker single wall but not speed anything up. Increasing layer height would speed things up via fewer layers, and increasing speed would obviously speed things up. At some point you'll start to outrun your extruder though.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:07
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In theory, i'm assuming at least, moving layer thickness from 0.20 to 0.40 ought to roughly halve print time? And yeah the other variable I'm trying to increase is wall thickness. Kill three birds with one stone 1. thicker wall 2. shorter print time 3. stronger print overall I am about a quarter way through my new 0.90mm wall thickness print, dimensional stability has improved dramatically I can't seem to increase top layer thickness* above 0.38 in vase mode, as it's grayed out for some reason, and 0.40 is too small to print a ~2mm external perimeter thickness *top layer thickness isn't used in vase mode, I smell a PR coming on
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Jul 26, 2021 03:17
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Hadlock posted:In theory, i'm assuming at least, moving layer thickness from 0.20 to 0.40 ought to roughly halve print time? Is detail an issue? What about a bigger nozzle?
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Jul 26, 2021 03:45
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w00tmonger posted:Is detail an issue? What about a bigger nozzle? Scroll up about , uh, 3, 4 and 6 posts or ctrl f for 1.0 and 1mm Going bigger nozzle means bigger layer height and there's some bug in prusaslicer preventing me from modifying a value that's not used in vase mode I'm just gonna Fuckin' Deal With It and print 0.9mm wall thickness, I've been manhandling my 1 meter test mule so far without issue at that thickness, and it's looking like I can print boats up to 5 feet long before I need to tackle this issue futher. Current new test mule is only going to be 4.2 feet long. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 04:16
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Hadlock posted:here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long How fast you can go is going to be limited by your hot end, something like a volcano should be able to go faster as it has a larger melt zone and can therefore supply more molten plastic (but there are quality implications to printing faster which may mean it doesn’t suit your application, I’m just talking in terms of technical limitations). I don’t know if maybe your slicer is limiting your speeds based on something it knows about your hot end or something, unless you’ve changed the wrong speed setting?
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Jul 26, 2021 04:47
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Hadlock posted:How fast can you go with a 1.0mm? I sort of assumed that the speed of the nozzle couldn't go any faster, but I guess I'm wrong? It's about volumetric capability of your hot end. Flow more plastic, you need more power and heat transfer, to heat the filament in the same distance within the hotend. This is why the Mosquito, Nova, Dragon and other things are a thing. They're capable of 4 to 6 times more plastic flow than a stock hotend. I commented earlier that my CR-30 with a 0.8mm nozzle has become my goto for general use parts, at 40mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height, I'm at nearly the maximum flow of the stock hotend. Easy enough to place it all in a calculator and work out if layer height x nozzle width x speed is below the volumetric capability of your hot end.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:48
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Hadlock posted:here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long Is there any chance your printer is in the path of an AC vent or something like that? If the corners are in the right spot but the walls are warping it could be because of differential cooling as the temperature changes with the AC cycling on and off. Also with a giant nozzle your hotend heater (or conceivably the power supply) may be having issues keeping the filament consistently at the proper temperature so it starts warping from that as well. Prusaslicer has a setting to limit volumetrically. My MK3S with a .6mm steel hotend starts having issues pushing more than 25mm^3/s particularly with higher-temp materials.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:55
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Hadlock, enable expert settings and remove the volumetric flow limit set on your plastic. It's under the filament tab. Set your perimeter speed to 40mm/s, layer height to 0.3mm, perimeter width to 1.2mm and enjoy.
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Jul 26, 2021 05:27
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Wanderless posted:Is there any chance your printer is in the path of an AC vent or something like that? If the corners are in the right spot but the walls are warping it could be because of differential cooling as the temperature changes with the AC cycling on and off. Because I'm a great big nerd I have a bluetooth temp/humidty tracker in that corner of the room, from 11pm to 5am the temp dropped from 76.2 to 74.5F and RH never got more than 1/10th of a % off from 48.5% That said differential cooling might have had something to do with it, 0.45mm is literally paper thin, and the outside diameter of the shape I'm holding in that pic is ~27 inches; combination of almost zero structural rigidity of 0.45mm plastic, and extremely minor temperature differences across 27 inches will probably add up. What is interesting is that the waves on each of the three "sides" are in different locations Here is what 5 pieces look like, printed at 0.90mm, from the prevous thread. Zero issues. Hadlock posted:Sailboat project in progress, 5 of 5 sections printed, now I have to glue them together Hadlock posted:Hull crudely sanded, with access hatch in place: insta posted:Hadlock, enable expert settings and remove the volumetric flow limit set on your plastic. It's under the filament tab. Thanks I'll give this a try
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Jul 26, 2021 05:49
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Time is slowly coming for me to start upgrading my print fleet from my Ender 3s. Obvious choice is a bunch of Prusas, but am I totally mental for even considering the Vivedino Troodon? Not a whole lot of info on them. I just don’t have the available free time to build a Voron.
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Jul 26, 2021 08:13
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Hadlock posted:In theory, i'm assuming at least, moving layer thickness from 0.20 to 0.40 ought to roughly halve print time? Vase mode only prints one perimeter wall. So if your nozzle is 1mm then you probably will have the most luck with a 1mm wall thickness or maybe a little bit more. Anything less than that and the slicer is going to try to do it by maybe extruding less plastic. Anything more and the slicer is going to push too much plastic and rely on it squishing outwards. If you're going for added strength, then that squish is in your favor.
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Jul 26, 2021 11:14
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Hamburlgar posted:Time is slowly coming for me to start upgrading my print fleet from my Ender 3s.
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Jul 26, 2021 14:34
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Aside from the Vulcan resin that was recently started via Kickstarter are there any other resin brands that are made local to North America? Finding a consistent source of bulk resin has started to become a real problem. I just had to buy a pile of very blue resin because it's the only one I could get in bulk to Canada right now.
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Jul 26, 2021 14:48
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Hadlock posted:I do a bunch of post processing, then paint the pieces, then fill them with lead how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA
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Jul 26, 2021 16:27
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Ghostnuke posted:how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA I'm assuming they meant that they epoxied lead shot into the keel.
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Jul 26, 2021 16:42
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InternetJunky posted:Aside from the Vulcan resin that was recently started via Kickstarter are there any other resin brands that are made local to North America? Finding a consistent source of bulk resin has started to become a real problem. I just had to buy a pile of very blue resin because it's the only one I could get in bulk to Canada right now. Not that know if and it's been a big pain in the dick
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Jul 26, 2021 16:45
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Ghostnuke posted:how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA 
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Jul 26, 2021 17:00
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Hamburlgar posted:Obvious choice is a bunch of Prusas, but am I totally mental for even considering the Vivedino Troodon? I have the Vivedino Troodon and it has been running fine for the last year or so. The only thing I don’t like about it is that it does not have a direct drive extruder and the Bowden tube is ridiculously long. Pla works fine but is suspect that PETG would be a challenge to avoid blobs and stringing everywhere.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:35
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Ghostnuke posted:how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA Yeah it's lead shot, with some carbon fiber twigs in there to give it some tensile strength, soaked in epoxy resin. There's a ~15% density loss due to using shot instead of pouring hot lead but for my purposes it's sufficient. A lot of people use a cast counterweight bolted to the bottom of a stick, but that involves a bunch of mechanical strain analysis. The way I'm doing it is considered acceptable, and also allows me to use vase mode which short circuits a whole lot of design work, and focus on water proofing and actual real world testing That said, in theory you should be able to put some lead shot in the bottom (to get part of the keel underwater), pop the boat in water, then pour lead in, and the water should prevent the PLA from getting much hotter than 110c, but don't feel like trying this in my bathtub Hadlock fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 17:52
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Any opinions on wash and cure stations, specifically Anycubic vs Elegoo? I have a Mars 2 so I'm leaning towards the Elegoo.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:32
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Toebone posted:Any opinions on wash and cure stations, specifically Anycubic vs Elegoo? I have a Mars 2 so I'm leaning towards the Elegoo. I have the elegoo Mercury that i use with my Mars 2 Pro. I'm perfectly happy with it. One thing I see that may be different between the Elegoo and Anycubic stations is that the Elegoo has a bracket that you can hang your build plate directly into the wash bucket and it doesn't look like the Anycubic does. I find this super convenient as I can just pull the plate off the printer, attach it to the bracket and put it into the bath, without touching any resin covered prints. Then after the initial wash I remove them from the build plate and into my second wash before curing.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:03
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