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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

hark posted:

has anyone here had any experience with overture filament? specifically abs?

Voron discord seems to indicate it can be a mixed bag but good for the price. This from people that have shoved hundreds of spools of filament into printers, so I tend to value their opinion.

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

mattfl posted:

Was having issues getting consistent ABS prints on my Voron and was gonna sell it and pick up an X1C. Decided to throw some PLA on it and getting nothing but perfect prints with it lol. Think I’ll keep it and maybe get the P1P -> P1S upgrade kit if I want to print ABS. The voron printing PLA isn’t quite as fast as the P1P but it’s no slouch either. Same test cube print on the P1P that takes 26 mins is about 30 minutes on the Voron. Feels good to have it printing again and the large bed size is awesome again.

I have the exact opposite problem (e: on my Voron), PLA has heat creep issues (100% a hotend issue) but all higher temp filaments print stupid fast and well as long as I calibrate the filaments. Generally I print calibrate per brand/type/color.

deimos fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Aug 14, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

mattfl posted:

Did you enclosure your P1P? My brother enclosed his and can't print PLA without having clogging issues unless he opens the top and the doors.

I have a 350mm Voron. I print PLA with the doors open, but the dragon creeps like a mofo, usually only a problem on 6+ hour prints (which, at my speeds, are usually big prints)

deimos fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Aug 14, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

mattfl posted:

Ohhh my bad, I thought you were saying you can’t print PLA with a P1P lol.

Ya I’ve heard the dragon has that problem, I’ve got the new Revo HF in mine.

I have had a rapido for a while now, but r2 came out and wanted to do that..
While also wanting to do the mgn12 x axis upgrade... Oh the pin mod looks good... And the hartk z joints... Then tap came out...

Soo I have done none of the upgrades. Gonna get off my rear end and print the entire gantry parts again in PC-CF, I have to anyways because I cracked one of the x joints when I overtightened it. And might as well get the z axis printed as well to bring it up to R2 specs.

I'd do revo but I have some tungsten carbide v6 nozzles so I am married to that form factor.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Serenade posted:

The Rapido 2 Plus has some production issues, mainly with the PT1000 thermistors being doa. You can fix this by getting an extra M4 PT1000 and swap them out, but I'd wait on the Rapido 2 Plus if you can.

I have an original rapido :v:

E: oh a few hours later I thought back on this... On my earlier post I meant I had to do the 'v2.4 R2 upgrades.

deimos fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Aug 14, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

mattfl posted:


The 2 printers that love eating all that filament



OOO, is that a canbus build?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

mattfl posted:

Yep and it was a pain in the rear end, and I guess worth it?

Then I threw on Tap(https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap which wasn't that big of a pain in the rear end.

Added the REVO HF nozzle and 60W heater core.

Then got KAMP(https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging) working which was pretty straight forward.

And it's currently printing a bunch of PLA parts at the moment lol. I know PLA is a waste on it but it prints it so nicely and I've got it running almost as fast as the P1P so I'm just gonna continue with PLA for now and enjoy the larger print bed.

Nice. I wish canbus survived inside a doomcube. The only option there is either watercoloring or ambient air getting pumped in and out of the canbus board for the hotter chamber filaments. Neither is really worth it so many cables it is.

For PLA printing check out the XOL. It has better cooling than the stealth burner and a spot for a thermistor on the top of the extruder heat sink so you can track heat creep.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
ERCF is the open source klipper equivalent of AMS in terms of functionality. (it predates AMS, to be clear)

To add: There are others, trad rack, prusa mmu, snuff, etc.

deimos fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 19, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Roundboy posted:


This requires the extruder gears to move, whereas the ams is all completely contained. Something like 2 dedicated motors to just move the filament around, a couple filament sensors etc


You're describing ERCF. AMS is an enclosed ERCF.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Acid Reflux posted:

I love that you're having so much fun with this! :)

One suggestion - it's good that stuff does seem to be sticking down, but those brims should be cohesive units and not all spider-webby like that. Looks like your nozzle tip is still just a bit too far above the bed. I'd print another one of those, and while it's making that brim, use the (hopefully present on your control panel, anyway) live Z-offset adjustment to nudge it down until those brim lines start merging together.

May not even need a brim once you get this calibrated.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Why do I need a VzBot 235?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
I have a V2 of theseus (not even the frame) I built a few years ago and have never gotten my serial :v:

E: ohh, ohh, yeah the z motion parts are still original.

My v0 is permanently a caterpillar, got the v0.1 printing immediately wanted mesh and klicky, did that, then said gently caress it I want bed tramming so turned it into a tri zero, might as well turn it into a BoxZero with a Pandora gantry while I am at it... And add canbus. (I then proceeded to fry my canbus and main board and it went into storage because I had stuff to do in that table I had been tinkering on the v0 for 6 months on)

deimos fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Aug 25, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Matt, are you running tap? If so what do you think of it vs something like klicky?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Prusa are the gold standard in reliability (at the price range they are at), but the p1s is capable, as a hobby you can't go wrong with it if you're ok with the whole cloud connected aspect of it.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
If it started happening recently with the same filament: dry your poo poo.

If it's always been like this then yeah retraction may need calibration. Also search for the slicer setting to not cross boundaries.

But also: dry your poo poo.

The Eyes Have It posted:

Your retractions might be only a problem for a model specifically like this one. Instead of loving with retractions, you could try to just turn on "avoid crossing perimeters" (or whatever your slicer calls it) which will plan nozzle travel to avoid moving across open spaces, therefore not dragging little wisps like you saw.

:sissies:

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

snail posted:

At least now there's nothing the cloud offers me that doesn't work in LAN mode on the X1, and the P1 is following along.

As for reliability, well, whatevs, there's no arguing with some people. I don't hugely care, I'm over here still printing models since...

I have no horse in this race, I own neither.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Save on hardened steel nozzles, join the cult of Bozzle.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Arcsech posted:

You don't need hardened steel nozzles right away, but I would recommend having a spare nozzle or two on hand in case you gently caress one up. They're cheap, even the good ones (not the ones made of diamond, if you need one of those you know why you want one), and relatively easy to gently caress up given they're the business end of the printer.

The ruby ones are the ones that are really easy to destroy. The diamond ones can survive a head crash. Bozzle is a good compromise cost/durability/performance, it's expensive but tungsten carbide so it's rugged. It's 0.5 but with Arachne it should still print fine details well. And best of all it has a neat internal geometry that helps increase it's volumetric flow capabilities.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

kid sinister posted:

Wtf is a bozzle?

And is a head crash exactly what it sounds like? The print head contacting the part?

This talk about tips reminds me of soldering.

Bozzle is a 0.5mm tungsten carbide nozzle, here's a link to one vendor: https://www.fabreeko.com/products/bozzle-0-5mm-full-tungsten-carbide-nozzle-by-rentable-socks


Head crash is the nozzle hitting either a print or the bed, ruby nozzles tend to shatter if it's the latter.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

kid sinister posted:

Tungsten carbide??? Speaking of drill bits...

Good thermal conductivity (steel's biggest problem) and excellent abrasion resistance. Lower barrier of entry and not made out of a (arguably very durable and strong) chunk of carbon that can shatter if you drop it like the diamondbacks. They'll still abrade after a ton of filament.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Speaking of head crashes (not mine):

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Rad-daddio posted:

I feel like bed slingers and bowden extruders got pushed hard, bc of their speed or something, but I always had way less fuss with the core xy machine and direct drive extruders.

Bed slingers are never going to be faster than something that slings a toolhead around. What they are is simpler.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
C looks overextruded for commercial work. A almost seems like also overextruded to the point of back pressure is making the extruder skip, but can't really tell.

Agree with maybe posting the stl.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

StrixNebulosa posted:



I tried to print a table, basically, on its back. The sample worked fine. This time it managed to unscrew all 3 of the big wheels under the bed. What the gently caress.

At least you know your first layer adhesion is (was?) good!

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Is the venom part the only multi material print? Or did you purge half the roll for the eye sockets?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

kid sinister posted:

Looks wonky = it looks like the same picture as before, the one you complained about. The first layer comes out beautifully. Is it because this part is so thin?

Wait, that picture is showing the top? HOW?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Ultrasonic cleaner with a non combustible solvent (there's a few that work with resins) then a spin on clean IPA is probably the best. Precipitating the resin out of both solvents every now and then.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Re: PEI, I sand (the flat PEI sheet) with a 3M microgrit pad, it's like 1200 grit. Extremely light pass ONCE, has not failed me yet. But I do wash my PEI with dish soap every now and then because IPA just moves grease and oil around.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

SubNat posted:

Orca Slicer, it's essentially SuperSlicer for Bambu Studio, same slicer with some extra options grafted on.

Closer to prusa than super, SS is a bit behind some features.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Yeah, I'm more worried about short blips than I am about long outages. If the power goes out for longer than 10 minutes I wasn't gonna be able to save the print anyway.

For my voron, I split the bed from the rest of the electronics and put use the same UPS but on either side (bed gets the surge protection but no battery, the electronics and hotend get the battery). I use a 1500VA battery.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

cruft posted:

Ding ding ding! This was it. I now suspect a combination of wacky filament and the blue Capricorn tube with needlessly high precision. I'm ordering some of the original clear tubing, which I liked better anyway, and which I hear is more forgiving. I only print PLA and PETG anyhow.

I was all teed up to order an MK4. Had spouse approval and everything. Now the Ender 3v2 is working again, and my plans are ruined! Thanks a lot, jerk!

Capricorn is great for Bowden but not as good for reverse bowden. I would not replace the Bowden with non capricorn usually.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

ilkhan posted:

My voron isn't responding on the webUI and Im getting really tired of this. :(

This happened to me until I configured tls, because I have my browser to try TLS whenever possible so the browser kept trying to switch to TLS when there wasn't any.

Before I did that the fix was to change https to http on the browser bar or open it in a new tab.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

BMan posted:

Remember: if the lines aren't black, the sketch is wack

But I want to centerline something for mirroring, sir.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

kid sinister posted:

And all this time I thought it was head crashes... Wouldn't that just get rid of the sound and leave the voids?

No. The voids are happening because the steam asplodes while the filament is coming out, basically creating string swiss cheese.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Nerobro posted:

So.. this is when you have someone who's got fabrication skills, creativity, and no ability to do engineering.

I saw it too. This guy is "I wanna keep my frame cool so it doesn't distort". ... which is not how that works. Also, wants a hot print volume, so they are litterally going to pump the heat out of the printer. *sighs*

But what if they hook it to a boiler to bring the frame up to temperature quicker, what about that smartypants? Oh right, it will cook the grease on the rails.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
GMax2 runs a standard mainboard from what I can find. Maybe get another board and klipperize it so you can run a bed mesh and find out exactly how warped your bed is. Bed mesh can help but for really badly warped beds it's not gonna be enough.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Nero has a video on leather stamping with 3dp.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Steel nozzles generally need hotter temps by 5-10 degrees.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
MagnetoX looking spicy. Too bad the ERRF demo got damaged in shipping.

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

tater_salad posted:

They've got the speed.. how do they flow that much filament?

They said up to 60 cubic, seems to be a sherpa inspired extruder on a goliath inspired hotend with various options for the melt zone, we'll see. I am excited for linear closer loop servos, apparently they basically had them custom made and instead of the normal 1 micron precision for the linear motion it's only 3 micron. I've seen these things fly on pick and place machines, any new tech is exciting.

Forgot to add: giving all the code to Klipper and sponsoring the development also gives me good vibes.

Hotend closeups: https://peopoly.net/products/magneto-x-lancer-melt-zone
Extruder closeups: https://peopoly.net/products/magneto-x-lancer-extruder?variant=46839431069978

deimos fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Oct 5, 2023

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