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Just finished assembly a Prusa Mk3s+ kit. After some trial and error with the z-axis calibration not working, it's printing! I've successfully made a few minor add-ons, like a webcam arm and a tool holder. Thinking, longterm, about adding a touchscreen and an enclosed container. Got Octoprint installed on a pi 3+ and ready to hook up. I've been out of the 3d printing game for a couple years. Whats the new hotness in octoprint plug-ins?
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Jan 3, 2023 01:08
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 08:20 |
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Here's a dumb question: Where could I find out what material, on either SLA or FDM, is the least affected by acetone? I'm working with a similar chemical compound in a lab setting (acetonitrile), and it's dissolving some of the plastic connectors I'm trying to use. I want to 3D print a replacement part, and I've got a design ready.
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Jan 4, 2023 20:46
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Yeah, I think I'm just going to have to order a 100x pack of this part that I need 1x of, to get it in the right material. Thanks.
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Jan 4, 2023 22:39
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Sagebrush posted:Actually wait, are you saying you can buy these fittings already made from a plastic that is specially rated for acetonitrile? What are they made from? Maybe you can print it. I found a chemical compatibility guide for labs (https://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf) that says that polyethylene or polypropylene hold up well to acetonitrile. I can order the bits I want in polypropylene, and it's a hundred pack for 30 bucks. That's the range where buying a spool of nylon filament would probably cost just as much.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:47
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Thanks for all the plugin UI upgrade suggestions. This is much more functional than the default octoprint interface. I also think I ended up with a very decent bed level:  Right now I'm re-learning all the advanced features, since I switched from Cura to PrusaSlicer. Some quick questions: - I think I've figured out paint-on supports and sequential printing. What other snazzy features should I spend some time learning? - I keep seeing references to PS having a 'smart' model orientation for minimum supports. But looking at internet posts, it is only enabled for SLA printers? So if you want to use it, you have to trick PS into thinking you are using a SLA printer, orient the model, and then switch back to FDM. This seems kinda janky and I'm wondering if there's a better alternative. - The default PS supports seem to be a bit overboard. Other than adjusting the overhand degree that supports start at, any good guides for tweaking them?
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Jan 11, 2023 16:15
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Unperson_47 posted:I somehow missed this in the thread. What are the suggested UI plugins, if you don't mind? Opinionated posted:I use UI Customizer, OctoApp, Print time genius, slicer thumbnails, Bed Visualizer, Cancel Objects. Those are the main ones that stick out to me when looking at my install currently for my mk3s+. Some others like top temp that shows the temperatures at the top always, emergency stop button plugin. - UI Customizer lets you move parts of the UI around however you want, turn on a dark theme, and have different layouts for a horizontal computer monitor and a vertical phone interface. - Slicer Thumbnails will show thumbnails generated by your slicer. - Bed Visualizer will take the bed leveling data from a printer (that has such a sensor) and convert it to a visual format. - Cancel Objects lets you drop a single model from a multi-model print. Haven't tested it yet, but seems handy if you're printing a dozen things and one of them comes off the buildplate. I haven't tested OctoApp or Print Time Genius yet. I also saw mentioned on the Prusa reddit boards a plugin called OctoLapse that moves the bed to a known position before taking time-lapse cam snapshots so that they're 'stabilized', but I haven't tested that, either.
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Jan 11, 2023 20:38
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I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for, but 'curved backdrop' sounds like it describes a bunch of STLs that thingiverse has: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=backdrop&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant 
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Jan 11, 2023 21:17
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If every layer except the first is fine, it probably means your first layer is the wrong height off the plate. Try tweaking it by, like, a tenth of a millimeter or something, and seeing if it helps. I also found that, at least for my printer, it seemed like I needed a slightly different height for PLA and PETG. But maybe that was just my imagination?
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Jan 13, 2023 19:14
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PrusaSlicer seems to do a off-plate waste run and a skirt loop. Seems excessive.
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Jan 16, 2023 22:03
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So I guess I'm being dumb with that 'organic' support. I see examples like this: https://twitter.com/TheZuza/status/1600782712776065024 and I'm confused, because that's a symmetrical cylinder/cone that's being printed, but the supports generated do not look symmetrical. I imagine these are developed by an iterative process? If you let it run more iterations, would it end up looking 'better'? It doesn't really matter, but it bothers me for reasons. edit: I guess I should look at it as a weaving 'branch' and not a globby thing. Bobulus fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jan 27, 2023 |
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Jan 27, 2023 17:03
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mewse posted:You might be getting confused by the perspective on the screenshots, it's a harry potter wand with the base on the front left of the bed, tilting upwards toward the back right of the bed. Yeah, I get that. I was referring to the way in the 'organic support' right-hand screenshot, the support material appears to start (at the buildplate) right below the wand, then swing 'behind' the wand from the camera POV, and then swing back 'in front of' the wand. I wasn't clear what that accomplishes that wouldn't also work with the support material directly below the wand at the top.
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Jan 27, 2023 23:18
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Nice. I was thinking of slicing up a video game spaceship model anyway, so this seems like a good time to test the new features with it. One note I'm seeing: quote:- Rafts with Organic supports are buggy.
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Jan 31, 2023 20:47
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When I was fiddling with ABS a while ago, the thing that worked was just putting a cardboard box over the printer. Can't get much cheaper than that.
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Feb 1, 2023 06:02
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Having an issue with my Mk3s+ where it sometimes seems to 'forget' the Z-position when I turned it off. The display will have a question mark next to the Z-level, like X: 23.5 Y: 52.3 Z:15? It seems to assume that whatever position it was when I turned it off is the bottom of the Z-axis, and then when it tries to start a print, it will be too far from the bed for the leveling sensor to work and it freaks out. I have to rerun the Z-calibration to get it working again, and that's inconvenient, since I then have to dial in the first layer again. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to home the axes before I turn it off?
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Feb 7, 2023 16:18
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I haven't touched the gcode, so that's not the issue. This might be a side-effect of the fact that I think I have some minor binding on my Z-axis. If I start it near the top when I do the Z-axis calibration, it does it correctly. If I start the calibration near the bottom, it just buzzes and doesn't move. It performs just fine when I'm printing, but I'm guessing some minor resistance is making it twitchy? So, yeah, I think I can bypass the problem by turning it on, moving the z-axis to the top, and then letting it home normally, but I should probably figure out why it's binding like that. edit: and I just noticed a new firmware came out in January. I should probably update that.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:24
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Yeah, I don't know if it's actually binding or just a weird calibration bug or what. It prints just fine at all Z-heights, for what it's worth, doesn't make any weird noises or anything. I really should track that down, though, you're right. edit: I don't want to sound flippant. I've put it off this long because you see poo poo like this on the prusa reddit and I'm half-convinced it's just a firmware bug: 
Bobulus fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Feb 7, 2023 |
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Feb 7, 2023 16:31
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Honestly, my octopi server seems to get a little laggy if I leave it running for months, so I have it set to same power switch as my 3d printer. Only downside is having to install updates on the octopi when I turn it on after a few weeks, but that's a minor inconvenience.
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Feb 13, 2023 16:56
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The hot-swappable hotend on the extruder seems like a nice feature, but seems like a lot of the electronic upgrades are equivalent to running an octoprint, which I already do. I think I'll stick with my 3S+ for now, and worry about upgrades if my current extruder ever has a catastrophic failure.
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Mar 30, 2023 19:21
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I'll be moving across the country soon and I'm wondering if I need to do anything to my prusa mk3s+ to keep it safe during said move. Obviously will need to relevel it afterwards, but do I need to completely disassemble it? Pad the extruder in some way?
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Jun 19, 2023 18:19
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Quick question, is there a good repository of imperial and metric thread STLs for nuts and bolts? I can usually find what I'm looking for on Thingiverse, but that typically requires me to search around and then edit a part to get what I want. I see someone has made a 'customizer' on Thingiverse where you can put in the space between threads, the thread depth, etc to generate your own threading, but what I'm looking for is either some pre-made ones for known threads or the pre-made numbers to throw into the customizer to get what I want. For example, if I want to print something that screws like a nut onto a threaded rod, I'd like to be able to just look at the tag for the rod, see it's a 7/16"-14 and plug that in somewhere to get a STL of the rod threading.
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Aug 14, 2023 13:59
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I think we're talking about different things. I can very easily add holes to models. And if I have the mesh/stl of a threaded bolt, it's simple to add or subtract it from a model to be printed. What I'm asking about is a repository of threaded bolts of different sizes that I can reference when I'm making a model.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:43
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mattfl posted:So Blender and Fusion have built in bolt sizes where you can basically pick the size of bolt you want and it will generate the model, is that what you're talking about? Yeah. I haven't played around with those, only used simpler CAD software. Guess that explains why no one is providing it another way! Thanks.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:05
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Yeah, I really need to sit down and learn Fusion. I've been getting away with using TinkerCAD because it's convenient to have my models in a web interface where I can design something at work and then print it when I get home, but the added capabilities of Fusion mean I really should just bite the bullet and do it.
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Aug 14, 2023 16:03
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Gonna vaguepost vent here: I was watching an old scifi show and got the urge to 3d print a prop from it. Looked around and found a well-detailed STL already existing, except it was behind a patreon paywall. Fair enough, subscribe to the patreon to get the model, only to find out that the person has set it up so you can only see old models after subscribing for three months. And, no, there isn't a way to just pay three months of patreon subscriptions at once to get immediate access. I guess it's some thing where the long-time subscribers to the patreon were salty about paying for years to keep access and didn't want upstarts getting immediate access. If the dude just sold individual STLs on a website, I'd be more than happy to pay for the single model and be on my way. Instead I have to wait multiple months, and then I'll probably download four or five models and move on with my life. Seems like a lose-lose situation for both of us. I dunno, maybe there's some copyright reason why they can't sell STLs directly. Grumble.
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Jan 22, 2024 20:41
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On a more positive note, a design I threw up on Thingiverse got printed by someone and used in a cosplay outfit that they uploaded a photo of to Thingiverse, so that's cool! It's nice to see someone liked it.
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Jan 22, 2024 21:59
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Acid Reflux posted:Bobulus, what's the prop? I'm into that scene myself and may know of another designer with more accessible files, depending on what it is exactly. Well, I was rewatching Farscape and thought a DRD might be a fun print. If you haven't seen the show, they're yellow maintenance bots about the size of a bike helmet, with eye-stalks:  I could probably design it myself, but they're deliberately all curves, no right angles, so it would take at least some effort.
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Jan 22, 2024 23:23
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Nah, I'm not going to pirate. Guy put in serious effort. I might try emailing him directly, though. That was a good idea.
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Jan 22, 2024 23:36
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I've got the Prusa MK3S+ and I'm seriously considering the upgrade to 3.5, which gets you a 32 bit motherboard, a color screen, and alleged increased printing speed. I feel like a full upgrade to 4.0 is probably overboard for the moderate amount of printing I do, but 3.5 might be just right. Anyone have any opinions on it? Seems like it's about a 5-6 hour upgrade, guessing the most tedious part is replacing the motherboard? I already have an octoprint raspberry pi set up, so the wifi addition to the printer doesn't do much for me, but I suppose if I upgrade to a new printer in a few years and resell this one, it might be attractive to the next person...
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Feb 23, 2024 15:16
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Boooo. Had a print I wanted to do, but my print bed is 250mm and the model was 260mm wide. Tried to fudge it by tilting the model 5 degrees so it would fit, just with a bunch of prusaslicer organic supports. Went with a really slow print rate in the hopes it would make it more likely for the trees to stay on the bed. A four day print. Worked fine for 24 hours, and then one of the trees popped off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBKwskVWXU0 I guess I should be thankful it happened now, and not three days in, but it's still frustrating. I'll do the correct thing and get my buddy with a 300mm bed to print it.
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Mar 11, 2024 17:12
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smax posted:Good news for Prusa MK3.5 users: new firmware dropped today. Main changes are: adds bed level correction, adds Revo support, and fixes a nasty bug where mesh bed leveling didn’t work as intended. Oh, nice. I got the kit last week, but I've been waiting for this new firmware before I dismantle my printer to do the upgrade. Here's hoping they squashed all the bugs right away! My bed got significantly more crooked when I move across the country, so maybe this dismantle would be a good time to play around with some thin washers and try and get it a bit flatter...
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Mar 20, 2024 21:05
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smax posted:Part of the upgrade is re-mounting the bed on new expansion joints, so you'll be yanking the whole bed off anyway. Currently I don't know if there's an easy way to pull an output showing the mesh values to check how flat it is. I haven't had a problem with my bed seeming significantly off, but I don't have any measurements to back that up. I'm using an extension in octoprint that can do the 3x3 or 7x7 leveling scan and convert the output to a graphical format. It was pretty drat flat a year ago, but now... So, yeah, another reason to do this upgrade.
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Mar 21, 2024 14:20
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I've never used them, but there are little 3d printed pieces that sit on the belt and tell you, by angle, how much tension is in it. Might be useful.
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Mar 25, 2024 19:03
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(Again, haven't tested any of these myself) You have your choice between ultra-simple: https://www.printables.com/model/135075-belt-tension-gauge And more involved: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2230598
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Mar 25, 2024 20:35
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 08:20 |
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Now that there's been a couple of patches, probably going to try the MK3S+ to MK3.5 upgrade this weekend. Here's hoping I don't gently caress anything up....
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Apr 19, 2024 19:56
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