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So I've been working on doing some resin casting in silicone molds. And I have been designing/printing the 'negatives' for the silicone mold. The amount of inside-out thinking I've been having to do has been kind of fun, but man my first couple of attempts came out bad. Once I get some finished product I'm not embarrassed to share, I'll post them up here. It's a pretty fun process, though, going from sketch to physical product.
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Jul 19, 2021 13:49
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The Eyes Have It posted:In really interested in hearing about your results, and hope you don't skip mentioning "poo poo that didn't work" when you do share it! Of course. The main thing in the 'poo poo that didn't work' was thinking the opposite of the opposite. And with molds, the negative of the negative is more than just the positive. My main issue so far has been accurately pouring the resin components. Good thing I've got literal gallons of the poo poo.
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Jul 19, 2021 19:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’ve been designing and making directly-printed metal casting molds from high-temp-resistant engineering resins, so sort of the literal mirror of what you’re doing i suppose. Nice to find someone else using hobby resin printers for technical/production work, it’s incredible how many doors a $300 machine opens when it lets you one-button print any high-detail model you want if it’ll fit on your build plate. i post my stuff in the other bigass 3d printing thread in diy, check it out some time~ I'm doing fdm to make the molds for the silicone molds for epoxy resin. Print -> fill with molding silicone -> add resin
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Jul 19, 2021 22:53
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i missed that, whoops. yeah that’s much simpler, thermoplastics don’t poison the silicone cure process like basically “all” acrylate resins apparently will, there are a bunch of surfacing/passivating techniques people apparently use but i haven’t tried em myself Yeah, I haven't made the leap to resin printing yet. I don't have the space for my existing printers and K40 as it is.
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Jul 20, 2021 01:20
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Javid posted:the advice I was given was "the cheapest hairspray available locally" so I spent $2 at the dollar general for a can I have yet to meaningfully deplete in months Yeah, even when I was using it regularly (I've been bouncing between the magnetic build tak and textured glass) I haven't noticed a meaningful reduction in the amount in the can of AquaNet pink I picked up like 4 years ago.
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Aug 16, 2021 12:48
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If I were home if be posting this looking at my massive pile of spools I got through Amazon Vine.
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Aug 20, 2021 17:21
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armorer posted:Okay Amazon got me that IR thermometer over night. With the hot end at 185C, the highest reading the gun gave was 140, and with it at 240C the highest was a momentary blip at 200 but mostly it read around 180. At this point I'd first make sure the thermistor is seated properly into the heater block. Failing that, replacing it is a good idea. Especially if you're getting inconsistent readings. It's either failing, or not properly contacting the aluminum.
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Sep 10, 2021 16:25
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I've got a cheapo dryer that's also supposed to work as a spool holder. The holding part doesn't work, but the drying bit seems to do just fine. Has a nice timer that gradually ramps it up from ambient to 50+C. I need to take some of my old silica packets and line the bottom of it.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:07
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Print the feet separately and glue them on. In TPU
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Sep 16, 2021 22:40
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Liquid lead is >327C which should be enough to melt the PLA out of the way when you pour it in. However, I would expect to see weird voids and vapor pockets trying to do it that way. Lost PLA is probably the way to go with this, depending on your ability to heat over 250C for a long period of time.
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Sep 24, 2021 12:44
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The Eyes Have It posted:Well now I'm pretty curious what your project is that uses 60 lbs of lead. Probably a model sailboat keel
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Sep 24, 2021 18:24
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withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
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Oct 13, 2021 13:22
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InternetJunky posted:So I finally got a chance to setup my Mars3 that arrived a couple of weeks ago. Plugged it in and the LCD turns white and that's it. Awesome. My stepdad has a similar Technology Disruption Field. My condolences.
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Oct 15, 2021 12:06
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Remember those attempts to convert MIG welders into 3d printers? I was hoping that was the Integza video. Did not disappoint. I love that dude.
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Oct 15, 2021 20:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Here is his followup on what you need to kludge a 3d printed metal part workflow. Oh, I'm a subscriber with notifications on. The permanganate and hydroxide rocket experiments were a blast... literally.
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Oct 16, 2021 15:06
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Class Warcraft posted:Same, except it’s one printer that’s always partially assembled because I’m in the middle of maintenance/upgrades and the other is actually working. Stop looking in my office window
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Oct 16, 2021 15:51
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So I decided to disassemble the CR-10S and keep it for spares/potential CoreXY build in the future. Picked up an Ender 3 Pro V2 (that's a mouthful) to keep my habit alive. I very rarely ever utilized the benefits of the 300mm plate, so I'm happy to reclaim the office space. We'll see how it goes on Friday.
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Nov 2, 2021 14:57
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If only there was someone here who could clarify a couple of these questions about Octoprint.
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Nov 3, 2021 11:51
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Ender arrived and set up. Squared everything off and leveled the bed (the default Z end stop position is for a standard bed thickness, not glass. So that was a challenge for a few minutes). As expected, the plastic extruders are still garbage, so I grabbed the metal one off of the disassembled CR-10S and had it running in a minute. The nozzle was clogged out of the box, but a little acupuncture and it started flowing. Also: holy gently caress it's quiet. The fans are the loudest parts (I might upgrade those) of the whole operation. The steppers and drivers are almost silent. First print with no tweaks came out nice. It's amazing to me how much better the camera on my phone picks up layers than my eyes. 
AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Nov 5, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 13:55
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Mr. Mercury posted:Ha! that's cool as hell, are they printing metals? Man that'd be awesome to play with You can come pretty close to printing metal with FDM at home now. Integza was using some filament that's mostly bronze with enough plastic to make it extrudable. You can then bake the plastic out and end up with some almost halfway decent parts. They're nowhere near serviceable for daily use (especially as rocket nozzles, which is his primary use lately), but it's a huge leap, for sure.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:03
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Dremel 3d printers are cinder blocks. This. They're the Keurig 2.0 of 3D printers, if not worse. They might work fine (I haven't used one) but the filament lock in is loving stupid.
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Nov 12, 2021 04:08
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Bucnasti posted:now I look and feel like a proper mad scientist while printing. As one should.
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Nov 23, 2021 18:40
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Switched out the extruder for the Creality branded aluminum unit. Swapped out the Bowden tube for a Capricorn. Swapped the stock bed springs for the yellow ones. Night and day difference on the Ender 3 V2.
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Nov 27, 2021 16:34
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Roundboy posted:I guess I am the lucky 1%,or the magnetic sheet on top of the aluminum is leveling something because according to my level map I am even all around I think it's a bit overblown how bad they are stock. I just slapped the magnetic sheet on mine and the center is spot on with the corners.
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Nov 30, 2021 23:14
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I have the atomstack one and it works ok. I haven't dug into it, but I found it annoying that somehow LightBurn apparently doesn't work with it under Windows. Probably a driver signing issue if I had to guess. Otherwise it works fine once you get the PWM dialed in. It really depends on what you want to cut and your environment. With a little work, you can get a K40 CO2 laser that makes it easy to vent outside. It has its own caveats as well, though.
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Dec 8, 2021 01:38
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porktree posted:Thanks, I was leaning towards the Atomstack A5. My wife wants to use it as a cutter, more than an engraver, fabric and thin plastics so it looks good for that. Yeah, it should work fine for things like that, but you might want to investigate a silhouette cutter if you're not looking for heavy cutting. I don't recommend cricut, even though they're really the easiest to use, because they're non-functional if you're not connected to the internet. If you still plan on a laser, be very careful about ventilation, and pick your materials wisely. Anything PVC based will emit chlorine gas/HCl vapor. For anything vinyl or plastic, make sure it's PU or at least specifically non-pvc.
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Dec 8, 2021 03:53
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biracial bear for uncut posted:K400 or whatever they call them now? K40 likely. I have one of those, which I've upgraded to better exhaust and a mesh bed and it works quite well. Definitely a step up from the diode engravers, which I also have. I'm waiting to reconfigure my garage area to have the diode laser set up semi-permanently because it doesn't come with an enclosure, and doesn't require water cooling. Considering I got my K40 for less than $500 including shipping and the few bits I've changed from stock, the diode lasers they keep sending are definitely not worth the cost.
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Dec 13, 2021 22:10
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Wang Commander posted:Any advice on K40s? If I move to a bigger garage, I want to get one. What can it cut? I've cut 3mm ply and 3mm acrylic without issue. I really think the bread and butter of that machine is engraving slate. Diodes can do it, too, but I engrave slate coasters at 150mm/sec and they come out great. My other favorite bit is zapping the anodizing off of aluminum. Once you get it dialed in, they look amazing. You can also engrave glass, which I'm not sure a diode can do? Additionally, all the diodes, since they use visible light (CO2 is infrared) recommend dark colored acrylic. You can engrave/cut clear acrylic just fine in a K40. Just beware on the materials you cut, especially pleather and vinyl. Anything PVC based will provide you with a very bad time. The keyword to search for is PU (PolyUrethane) for that stuff, as it won't release chlorine and HCl gas.
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Dec 13, 2021 22:17
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That's just called perfect planning
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Dec 23, 2021 16:58
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Someone on Reddit posted an open source set of files to convert an Ender 3 to a belt printer and I'm fighting the urge to try it out very hard. Especially since the bulk of the BOM is "buy an Ender", basically.
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Jan 12, 2022 16:00
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biracial bear for uncut posted:As in a tilted-Z belt printer or one that still has a vertical Z and just runs a belt over a stationary build plate like the old Thing-O-Matic? Tilted Z belt. Like the CR-30.
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Jan 12, 2022 16:55
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biracial bear for uncut posted:See above about only being able to "reliably" print in PLA. That's all I print with, anyway. But as a difference between an Ender 3 + some parts vs $1k. I like where it's going.
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Jan 12, 2022 18:36
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w00tmonger posted:I get the impression theyre looking for investor funding at this point. No footage of this thing printing and documentation is all over the place It's "released", but yeah. The comments on the post are pretty much the same. Definitely keeping an eye on it.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:38
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So, in your circumstances, I feel like a ventilated enclosure would better serve for protect the printer than people.
AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jan 13, 2022 |
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Jan 13, 2022 16:58
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St. Blaize posted:do you have any specific mods you recommend for the ender 3? i actually got a couple of the microcenter specials for family as gifts and would love to make life easier for them Metal extruder. Stiff bed springs (or silicone standoffs). Capricorn tube. Huge improvements for a few bucks.
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Jan 15, 2022 16:08
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Ghostnuke posted:I couldn't get rid of mine fast enough, but maybe yours will be different My E3v2 was great out of the box, and even better with the standard upgrades. Sorry you had a bad experience. I still can't get over how quiet the drat thing is.
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Jan 20, 2022 02:00
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Considering I have a Dell R710 under my desk. The base fans in an E3v2 are pretty drat quiet overall.
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Jan 20, 2022 03:10
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I've taken to using small dabs of UV resin in some instances instead of CA glue. A quick hit with the UV light and it's tacky or better and allows me to move on much faster than CA.
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Jan 21, 2022 03:24
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Dear smooth PEI-coated spring steel beds, Where the gently caress have you been all my life? Holy poo poo what a fantastic printing experience. Unless I find that there's significant differences in grip between smooth and textured, I'm never ever ever going back.
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Jan 24, 2022 18:01
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ToxicFrog posted:Smooth is nice but I'm a recent convert to textured after trying it for PETG -- yeah, the bottom layer isn't as perfectly smooth to the touch, but adhesion is still great and most of the time the print automatically detaches itself once the buildplate cools. I haven't done any petg with the V2 yet, but I have 2 textured plates for when I'm ready to.
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Jan 24, 2022 19:57
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