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I have an ender 3v2, and I have my settings pretty dialed in on the printer and CURA for PLA and PETG printing. I have printed many a thing with zero stringing and specifically tuned it on the various calibration objects out there. That being said, i came across the collapsible sword STL (yes i am late to this party https://www.thingiverse.c) and I was attempting the test of the blade model. Its just three concentric circles which print completely fine, smooth, proper width, adhesion ,etc but on my z layer change, i get a slight string which fuses the three circles togethe ras one. Its enough to lock them together, not just a support style touch. I have no stringing anywhere else, and I am trying to find a specific setting that will address this as I don't want to play with my retraction distance / speed any more if i dont need to . I tried coasting, retract on z layer, etc and its just not going away. Has anyone solved this particular subset of the 'how can i stop stringing; issue or do i still need to edit retraction settings ? example : https://imgur.com/a/jbPyfYW
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Oct 13, 2021 23:59
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SEKCobra posted:Trying really hard to convince myself that I can somehow use a second printer, but I really don't know how. My printer is two weeks old but I start longing for a new printer when I start a long print and need more things
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Oct 16, 2021 14:27
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I always heard PETG was food safe, assuming you cleaned your nozzle after using cancer fillament before it. I used it to print cookie cutters and things I want more stiffness out of. But, even with a perfectly tuned printer, its a pain in the rear end for certain parts, like retractable sword blades or anything with small gaps between them that need to remain separate because of the stringing. That being said im having an issue with small parts in PLA that i am going very anal with leveling and bed cleaning before i waste more hours Maybe PLA+ is a good alternative, but I am sitting on 4kgs of PETG and 5 of PLA (and .5 of TPU) so I have a long way to go in printing before i get more.
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Oct 17, 2021 05:06
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I guess I finally joined the secret ender 3 club where I have disassembled my printer almost complete and rebuilt it. Once for redoing my initial install squaring and once most recently because of catastrophic filament build up in the hotend Ordered some new Capricorn tubing for just the hotend, but I need to print some spacers to do the proper mod, so everything is put back together but reprinting this bullseye shroud is pissing me off, failing at the last 2 min if a 3 hour print on the little ears breaking off My level is spot on, and my zlevel is great, but it seems like my filament is getting a bit too stiff on retraction and casing the nozzle movement to break the parts. It's pla @215 because the manufacturer recommended 210 and it's getting colder in my basement A touch hotter? Go slower on the small bits? Both? The nozzle is brand new, and the only real difference now is that my silicone sock is off until a new one comes, and my fan shroud is broken on one mounting side, but its still at the right height Roundboy fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 02:14
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This is what I came to see after 8 hours http://imgur.com/a/rKLxtkD Which was an almost completely clogged nozzle, my heat sick melting and just a mess all over http://imgur.com/a/wvbBtDa Interesting on the pla temp, as the spool of this particular silk pla wants 210. In fact, my first print of this failed because I accidentally left a temp tower script enabled in slicing, and every so often it was dropping the temp 5 degrees, and I finally caught it printing at 170 and the layers stuck to each other, but barely I guess I can try the usual calibration stuff at lower temps to see what is up, but I only mention the cold basement in the case of drafts as I walk past. The new tubing should be here today, I was just attempting to print some needed parts before that with a fixed existing tube and no sock
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Oct 21, 2021 13:39
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It seems very popular with the ender series, and the stock fan setup does seem to keep up with stuff even with me hacking away at it. I'm sure I'll be getting a new hotend at some point, but waiting at least a month before I go all 3d printer of Theseus Edit: that is what the spool says. I always thought there was some special reason they wanted that temp but reading it closer they say 210 +/- 15 which just seems like a crazy huge range. Or a whatever temp you want to use is fine Trying a cube of it at 200 but it's generally printed fine 200-215. Never had to dial in any pla prints, I just spent the time working on petg temp settings for stringing. Pla was just working until what seems to be separation between the Bowden tube and my nozzle This was one of my first prints before everything was really dialed in, it was functional but had some issues, and i broke it overtightening : https://i.imgur.com/k3kNTTT.jpg My first reprint failed at the ears by snapping them off. I was assuming filament or the nozzle was sticking to it and t snapped it during travel. I ended up slowing it down to 75% on the printer itself and it seemed to be fine https://i.imgur.com/t4cFySv.jpg still some little minor things i want to clean up, but i have everything hacked together at the moment waiting on new parts Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 14:30
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The ender 3 is a cheap printer, but once its dialed in it prints pretty nice. You just have to be prepared to McGyver things when they go south, and forums are rife with the same post after post about basic issues around leveling. I've only been at it a couple weeks and Im already sick of tying up the same level steps for people that want push button quality and ease of use but say 'look how cheap i can 3d print now!'. But I can see the frustration you can have with the ender, trying to figure out what is a wear item and what is an inherent design flaw. At least i am only about $50 into various updates and fixes on top of the cost, but I'm totally comfortable with rewiring and rebuilding it over and over. In fact my next printer would either be a larger more expensive printer, or a hacked together larger ender made from old parts and stepper motors
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Oct 21, 2021 19:13
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You should tackle a Voron 2.4 build, honestly. I started reading about this and im hooked. I think i found my future project drat you
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Oct 21, 2021 20:02
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You want to really get psyched about doing it? I actually watched that video before i posted and gasped when i saw that. This type of thing really hits my buttons but moreso i need to get my work bench built now that wood isn't $absurd. Totally not going to even try until i understand this current printer fully and troubleshoot all issues
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Oct 21, 2021 20:24
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My problems are my own doing. I built everything initially without knowing the end result, and it was worth taking it apart to make sure my key areas were square. Everything past that was trying to eek out the last bits of quality, specifically stringing and retraction settings. Constantly playing with settings, printing a test, etc caused common issues with tube separation and plastic goops i just had to clean out. I;m finally done with the bulleye shroud on stock fans because i just broke it again with the smallest of screw tightening. My bed only gets leveled when i make a major change and move everything around. Recently I realized I didnt install the z screw properly and it ended up binding 30 some off hours of printing later. But that was a quick pull and inserting it properly and making sure my gantry was again square. The things that frustrate people about this printer make me like it, and i went into it knowing i was going to tweak, upgrade, break all kinds of things. Im still printing just fine (when i get the cooling fan back on) but I will not replace anything until it breaks or I hit a wall and need an upgrade. I have .5kg of TPU i cant wait to try but i want to make sure my extruder spring is right and retraction settings are dialed in enough just so im not wasting material, and I have plans for larger prints but some minor issues caused failures i need to fix first. Honestly the biggest problem is that i need more printers to print all the things I want while im waiting on stuff to finish
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Oct 21, 2021 21:30
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I have the following questions trying to keep up with all these topics: 1) Voron / Trident: Im so far away from building this, but kits aside, isn't it all just plans you buy parts for? Aluminum rails of length gotten from anywhere, and a kit would just be them packaged together for ease of purchase, etc? The Trident is just a bed moving design vs x/y/z all steppers ? I look at my current ender and was 1/2 hearted shopping for longer rails ,etc just to build it bigger. Aside from longer parts and changes in firmware, thats all it needs. Seems like the Voron is that idea all around 2) Speed. I currently run @50mm/s Obviously i would like it higher but I need to make sure all my other ducks are in a row. What is the recommended test to print or are you just upping speed until... issues ? 3) Bed leveling. I have a level bed and i know how to check and set it. I recently added a BLtouch and check the bed before printing to adjust the mesh, but lately i wonder if i really need to do this EVERY print, especially if i am printing back to back. I am thinking of changing my gcode to just load the existing mesh, and print away, and if need be, i can manually set a new check every so often. My bed is not falling out of level to justify a 4x4 grid every print, how is everyone managing that ?
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Oct 21, 2021 23:19
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mystes posted:Oh I think i might just need to enable z-hop? no, you need to do a leveling print and touch it. if that is barely sticking, then you are not going to get good prints and you usually need a zoffset a touch lower. if it sticks good and stuff is falling over after a while, then you can look at cleaning the bed well or just swiping a glue stick across the bed before you print. There are other factors that make or break a print, but a proper first layer is paramount
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Oct 21, 2021 23:57
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Remember that bed leveling and nozzle distance are two different things. You level the bed to make sure the nozzle is consistent over the surface, THEN you set the offset to tell the printer how close it should be. It wont crash the bed since its level .... Leveling can be quick, and printing a level test and adjusting your offset live makes it easy and quick
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Oct 22, 2021 00:44
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mystes posted:Thanks that poster looks really helpful. You dont want the nozzle to hit the bed at all. You want a home'ed z axis to be as low as possible that you can move the x/y all over the plate without touching, but you are able to measure its distance with something... like a sheet of paper. It just so happens that a sheet of paper (or at least, folded in two) is exactly how far your nozzle should almost be when printing. So you are getting 2 for 1 effort there. I havent had to use the limit switch in a long time on stock firmware, so I honestly forget if there is a better / faster way to plug the axis down vs setting the limit physically lower. But ideally you have it trip the limit just as its ALMOST low enough as there is more slight downward travel. Your offset should take up any other slop there
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Oct 22, 2021 01:32
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I have so many .4 nozzles, some that came extra with the printer, and it seems some came with every upgrade i bought over time. So I dont feel bad about jus popping off one and tossing in a new one rather then cleaning it to a shine when i have a clog, etc, but i seem to be going through a lot of them lately It seems like every other print with PETG I am getting some backpressue, making the extruder click, and i take things off and swipe them out. Going with the Luke Hotened fix really makes this quick, and i have not had any plastic filling up my hotend and heatbreak Are there good nozzles and bad nozzles on amazon? Any to avoid? I just want to grab a bunch of 'known good' ones and go from there
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Oct 24, 2021 22:36
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If your leadscrew is binding up, that will be an issue. If you roll it on a table is it stright or bent? If bent get another Are your gantries aligned correctly? I ended up inserting mine from the extruder hole down to the zstepper, and that assured i was aligned. You can also print various brackets that help with this. Also loosen the screws at the top slightly
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Oct 24, 2021 23:44
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Split the difference? A bed level probe would account for that but lacking that, you can back off the screws a bit and have the edges in line with the center. Distance should be handed by z offset, not your final level
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Oct 25, 2021 20:42
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Im just browsing parts, not really in need, but information is all over the place. It seems there is a large 'red vs blue' debate on Noctua fans vs any other for ender 3 v2 replacement fans. I',m interested in quiet 24v fans that push enough air for at least the hotend, and likely dual 5015 fans for part cooling, and whatever for PSU / mainboard fan which is my main noise complaint. Can anyone actually demystify the fan choices for me ? reading more and more i am just unsure what is even good anymore. WINSINN 50mm Blower Fan 24V 5015 Dual Ball Bearing 50x15mm Turbine Turbo Brushless for cooling ANVISION 2-Pack DC 24V 40mm x 10mm Brushless Cooling Fan, Dual Ball Bearing, YDM4010B24 for literally all the other fans Looking at likely the HeroMe ducts / base as the bullseye i am currently using is a tad annoying. Im not looking at direct drive, new hotends ,etc. I can see myself with a new heatbreak but that is about it
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Oct 26, 2021 16:02
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insta posted:WINSINN is decent, especially for their availability. Always get dual-ball-bearing fans, sleeves will die quickly. WINSINN makes "Quiet" versions of their fans, which are the same fans that spin slower. I personally like standardizing on a brand, so I'd swap out your ANVISIONs for WINSINNs, but they probably come from the same factory in China. Are the slower quiet versions hobbled in terms of airflow ? I would like quiet but not if its going to push such little air its not worth it. The internet is all over on the specifics. EDIT looks like quiet are just Hydraulic bearings, but they didnt update the noise or power specs on the amazon pages at least/. looks to be the same decibles and power draw for the same CFM, just lower RPM and lower life. I can grab a 4 pack of 24v blower, and a 5 pack of 24v 4010 and replace everything as needed Roundboy fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 18:01
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blugu64 posted:Guess what I’ve been doing today… I never considered benchy as a method to help calibrate, but the thing you print as a result of all your final calibrations. single layer level squares all over the bed, and calibration cubes have done much more for fixing my issues and dialing in my printer then benchy ever has.
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Oct 27, 2021 21:54
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blugu64 posted:Any suggested models? I’ve been using benchy to calibrate for a while now. Aside from esteps which is just nice to check, I went to teaching tech and generated the first level gcode file. It's 5 squares right over my adjustment knobs( and center) which print in 10 min or so You can do the same with any stl you like, but I'm bypassing a lot of my start code like purge lines and leveling. After I set my level and rough offset, I just start printing these back to back. Problems with all of them, I change my offset, or I adjust the side/ corner that is off Then I use the calibration plugin for cura to make a calibration cube to just verify a bunch of settings, it's 25 min or so. Aside from it's main purpose of giving you an exact 20mm print to measure, you can check a number of other things like: Bed adhesion(bed temp settings) Layer adhesion (hotend temp) Overall size (possible extrusion ratio) Lines or zits (nozzle issues, or issues in your physical hardware causing a skip or bad spot) In the this case you can also print them in different spots on the bed to find your problem area, as usually the center is spot on, but a corner might be off I like to check that my corners are sharp and not stringing in the letter, which is a way to see if your speed and retraction settings are good Also the side smoothness can show you the difference quickly in coasting vs ironing vs wall inset, etc. Yes, there are specific tests for retraction, overhang, etc but I will submit that if you dial in leveling and z offset, and can make a drat good vibe in 24 min, then your benchy will look really good in1.5 hours or however long it takes. Benchy is supposed to highlight and find your printer weakness areas, but it's not always obvious on what the fix is, and you don't want to be the guy posting a couple pictures of benchy asking'what settings do i change'?
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Oct 27, 2021 22:30
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A quick google search shows that the printer has its own slicer software, but you are still sending gcode to the printer. I see mention of a 'Print from SD card' option ... do you not have that ? Looks like with more googling you are using gcode, but its converted to x3g. Cura has a plugin for that, and that level print can be found as an stl all over.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:40
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I've seen models of very small gears, and in theory, you can print as small as your nozzle is. .4 is nothing too sneeze at and i can easily print nice oncentric circles with a .2 or smaller gap between them. Now, PLA might not hold up that small PETG might string out requiring some cleanup on the teeth. PLA+ maybe ? I have not gone too far down the rabbit hole, but a quick search found some mode train gears : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4321268 10mm gear, 1 mm teeth. In fact, the model pictures have a couple assembly pictures and the transmission gears look very similar to the above train, but not exact. and here : https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gear-for-model-train-locomotive-bachmann-climax-g-scale-171753 This is something i would tackle in 3d, playing with the tooth angle, etc to see if i can make it strong edit: actually searching "brio toy train gears 3d model" seems to be a lot of printable stuff ready to go
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Oct 28, 2021 00:39
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Nerobro posted:They are also the same motors in HO scale Tyco slot cars. I'll obviously defer to someone with more experience, but 85% of the time its bed level / offset and its easier to tell that in 10 min vs a benchy. But we are talking about people not doing the basic troubleshooting and a benchy can hide some of those issues in the print. But I would love to have a single benchy print and have any issues diagnosed by someone who knows better for sure
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Oct 28, 2021 00:44
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Javid posted:Man, I'd at least TRY to model and print some of those gears, but this really sounds like a kid that doesn't need or appreciate a motorized car toy as opposed to just something with wheels that spin Teach the child to model and print. When he sees the calibration and leveling work needed for gear/tooth precision I'm sure he would treat his toys much better. If you liked my TED talk, please visit my patreon page
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Oct 28, 2021 04:02
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I'm about to pop open my .5kg of TPU (96A) i bought on a whim for testing. I fully intend to print tests left and right to figure it all out, but some information seems to be all over the place,and I dont want to waste it and my time unnecessarily. I'm keeping my generic TPU profile pretty much the same, but I am lowering retraction to 3mm. I am using my pretty much stock Ender 3v2, with the only changes being to cooling ducts (not needed here?) and a hotend fix with a capricorn tube segment locked in there. That being said, the stock printer can handle this if i go slow and watch retraction, right? Bed temps I have seen 0 to 80c(!) so I have no idea if i need to actually heat the bed or not, but i am using a PEI sheet for now. I know this is more of a trial and error thing, but will i need to pop it off the printer and into the drybox right away or can this sit out for a bit? What are people's overall experience with this ? My eventual goal is to create some phone / lcd mounts for my car and octoprint setup Roundboy fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 20:26
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Ok I jumped the gun and just said 'gently caress it, do it live' and just printed my calibration cube. Bed was off, but still cooling from my last print so it was @33c or so. No glue, and this was pretty drat solid on the plate. temp 238 speed 50m/s retraction was 3mm 25m/s speed   some little zits I can work on, but the corners are sharp, sides are smooth, letters are crisp. and my cheap amazon calipers show 19.8 / 19.9 all around. Honestly not getting all the crazy TPU worry out of this at the moment. But I am gonna try something more signifigant Roundboy fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 21:15
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Nerobro posted:TPU, printed well, always looks like forbidden candy. that's really crisp for springy poo poo. 20% infill and its smooshy like a marshmallow Printing the dice i tried on silk PLA earlier but fell off even with a brim. Im using the PLA gcode of 100% infill and i just turned off the bed and manually set the hotend temp up. 50% done but printing like a champ. The PLA one flew off the mat and ate itself like 5 min in
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Oct 28, 2021 21:43
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Nerobro posted:I'm itching to build that makergear micro printer. But add a heated bed. Sorry my original settings for dice were based on pla. 100% infill, 205/60 temp, brim for adhesion because the model was printing balanced on a corner as to make the dice fair I didn't realize for you, I just used the printer menu to set the bed from 60-->0 and the hotend to 238. My wife is a little disappointed it's not smooshy, so I can redo it with some space inside
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Oct 28, 2021 22:38
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withak posted:Now try something where stringing will be a factor. Nerobro posted:
Challenge accepted! Benchy is on the way, but I always wanted one of these squishy   Sure the stringing from the head to tail is there, but it cleans up easy and i haven't even started to tweak it yet. I wonder if i can up the retraction to 5 from 3 to solve it even more. The lines are clean otherwise, and the 'flex' is still there so the parts are still l captured, but this really does shine in a rigid plastic. The issues i used to have in other filaments was the tail section being so small it would need extra adhesion or it would lift off and fail. Not here, this PEI sheet is pretty drat nice with the texture for this. I wonder how the glass sheet would work
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Oct 29, 2021 00:48
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I've been obsessed with articulated finger extensions, so I'v spent the entire day for the most part printing various gears and other parts with very small 1.5-2mm holes for joining them together. Most of my little tabs kept breaking off , and i notice my normally nice printing is now going....funky. Aside from a couple spools of PETG, pretty much all of my PLA spools are really Silk PLA because i wanted pretty metallic colors, so my normal go to of the metaling silver was just giving me so much grief. Brands are all over because i was buying what was showing up on amazon for a good price and color choices. Getting a lot of globbing and poor layers, and some just outright missing portions of layers. Found a spool of unopened hatchbox PLA i must have bought as a 'standard' and the printing is night and day, everything is working like it should be. I guess i'm going to relegate the pretty colors to kids toys and get a supply of proper PLA for the stuff i need to work. I was even considering using my glow in the dark spool of PLA+ just because it prints so solid as a default go to.
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Oct 30, 2021 04:47
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I have WAY to much fillament to burn through on garbage stuff before I bother with buying more, but I am disappointed in all the shiny metallic i have so far (except for this rainbow) and I think i am just going to stick with a big name pla or even PLA plus in primary colors
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Oct 30, 2021 05:16
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I recently bought a pack of big sealed plastic tubs to hold my filament, just with the silica packs sitting in it. The longer term plan is to print holders and feeders out of it, but how long do you leave a spool out on the holder before it's 'burned' and needs to be dried?
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Oct 30, 2021 05:28
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Did you remove the heatbreak or just the nozzle? If you did take the heatbreak off, then take it all apart again, and make sure it's cleaned out. Then reassemble cold and lose it a turn Then heat it up to play temps and make sure the heatbreak is all the way in the block, and the nozzle is tightened all the way to the heatbreak Make sure the tube is all the way down, and your ends are cut straight. I like to make sure it's through the pneumatic fitting a bit long and that way when I screw it in it gets it really tight against it. A gap there is a killer I would suggest you look up the ender hotend fix, where you basically use a piece of Capricorn inside the hotend, and normal ptfe everywhere else. It just makes cleaning easier and assures no gaps You can leave the other end of the tube off the extruder, and make sure you can feed the filament through. You can do this with steppers disabled or power off just to make sure it spins nice. The pathway from the initial entrance through the gears and out the tube is difficult if the filament is curved the 'wrong' way. This is a good time to check your esteps too If you can't even get the filament in the tube then something is very wrong. Also if you can't when hot get the filament to just push through and extrude then you are not lined up to have a clear path. I would say clog but you changed the nozzle
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Oct 30, 2021 17:18
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csammis posted:For what it’s worth I’ve never found a silk PLA that works worth a drat for small details. IIRC the “silky” texture is from mixing TPU into the PLA and it’s just a nightmare to get the extrusion right on that blend. Also wanted to say. YES. This. I have printed this and similar remixes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4342323 SO many times and each time the small tabs keep breaking off and the fine details like gears are just garbage. If i print just the gears 6 at a time 1-2 are garbage and the rest are usable. That being said i found this : https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Articulated-Finger-Extensions/ and i printed them in just hatchbox black PLA and they are printing wonderfully. The holes need to be reamed out to use filament as a pin, but i have a test finger using cold solder as a pin for now and its working wonderful I may revisit the original because i like the skin available to snap over it, but im currently printing out a new herome base and duct to use the new fans arriving today. Once again its time to overhaul everything 50 hours of printing in just to make sure it remains nice. I was recently convinced to use a single 5015 blower for part cooling over dual 5015s, so I am going with that at the moment since i dont have plans to print hotter then PETG anytime soon. At thins point i am happy with my modifications and the only thing i would consider is a new bimetal heatbreak for consistency but the Luke hotend fix has been working out great, and i am hesitant to screw with the hotend again.
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Oct 30, 2021 18:32
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I have burned through a bunch of nozzles so far. Anyone have an amazon link or 3rd party link to known good .4 mk8 nozzles so i dont have to play nozzle-lotto ? i mean i still have them but its going to be a hassle to clean them, so i just pop on a new one. EDIT: that work with the stock hotend. Im not replacing that anytime soon i have no need Roundboy fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 18:47
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Does that work with the stock hotend ? I am not switching that out and some quick googling suggests that it will not work
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Oct 30, 2021 19:11
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Nerobro posted:How often are you clogging nozzles? This should be a ~rare~ thing. I had an issue with some tubing not fully seated before i switched to capricorn/hotend fix. I have extra nozzles with the printer, extra from a nozle cleaning kit, and extras from the alumnium extruder kit. Some are probably hot garbage, and probably user error because i put on at least 1 cold without tightening properly when hot. its just easier to swap when the nozzle was probably crap, and i dont really want to fool around with a brush and attempt to get in there, especially since i was printing with PETG for a bit. That being said, I dont -WANT- to keep swapping, and i havent done so since I last redid everything, I just want to have know good on hand for reasons. i did just print a lot of PLA+ glow in the dark, which is abrasive? No idea if my .4 is .4 still, but its printing nicely now. insta posted:Roundboy, get a MicroSwiss MK8. Drop-in replacement. Ouch $15 for a single steel nozzle. I guess I can just buy once cry once and not have to replace it forever
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Oct 30, 2021 19:59
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Ok ok the price is actually reasonable, and I actually remember when McDonald meals cost me $6 or so total :/ For as much as I am printing, $15 over time is like pennies per hour so I guess I can stop bitching. First world complaints. I'll resume bitching when I build a voron for reasons. Just cause I can I guess?
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Oct 30, 2021 21:10
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Welp I might be buying a new hotend soon anyway. After printing all day today, with a couple hour break here and there, my latest print finished up and was sitting for about 5-10 min. I cleared the print area, and told it to start the next print. Still with PLA 205/60. And I get the thermal runaway beep during warmup. PID tune seemed to work fine, and preheat after. Started the print again and same thing even though it was only @ 200 vs 205. Watching the temp probe numbers it looks like the ender has no idea what the nozzle is at, and the hotend fan keeps gong on and off. I'm sure this is just a thermistor thing, but if im taking it all apart anyway... I was already on the microswiss page looking at a nozzle. Quite annoying. Printed : 15d 1h 20m Since installing jyers EDIT: Looks to be thermistor wire itself. moving the wires around gives me 190 deg or 0 reading Roundboy fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 31, 2021 |
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Oct 31, 2021 05:12
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