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InternetJunky posted:I'd like to talk about nitrile gloves for resin/print handling since as an alternative I'm actually using super cheopo sandwich gloves similar to what the workers at Subway would use (https://www.amazon.ca/Ronco-Deli-Medium-Disposable-Gloves/dp/B00QEGN8TE/ref=sr_1_10). Most of the time the glove is on for about 10 seconds total (take off flex plate, scrape off prints, put plate back on) and using a nitrile glove for that becomes kind of expensive if you print a lot. They are also great when taking the vats off the machine, since I can take the vat off with one set of gloves and then quickly put on clean gloves and not risk accidentally transferring uncured resin from the gloves underneath the vat. I think there is a pretty high risk of that with gloves so thin. I did the opposite, I have heavy duty nitrile cleaning gloves that I have been using for months, I switch over to normal gloves for detail work but otherwise this has saved me hundreds of gloves/waste.
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Jul 22, 2021 14:23
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Hadlock posted:here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long Boost your layer height, no sense printing .20 with a 1mm nozzle
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Jul 26, 2021 02:36
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InternetJunky posted:Also, what do you mean by "curing prints under water"? When the first wave of cheap MSLA printers came out (2019?) it was common practice to UV cure cleaned prints in water, due to the belief that oxygen inhibited the curing process. Still how I do it though it seems that everyone has moved on from that.
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Sep 11, 2021 15:06
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NofrikinfuN posted:Ordered a Prusa mini but also suffered some serious impulse control issues and also ordered an Elegoo Mars 2 for some resin stuff. Elegoo ABS like resin is good at a good price point, Siraya tech has a lot of very nice resins if you need more flexibility or strength. Any well rated PLA on Amazon will work just fine for filament, I like overture matte PLA because the matte finish dulls artifacts and layer lines. For resin you will need isopropyl alcohol, a box of nitrile gloves, and some way to clean and final cure the prints. I found little containers with baskets in them from the dollar store, used two of them filled with IPA to clean. First one was a dirty bath to shake it around and get majority of resin off, second one is cleaner IPA to rinse again, scrub with a toothbrush and then one more rinse. Dry off and then cure with a UV light or the big yellow UV light in the sky. Also get lots of paper towels. E: maybe I want to die of resin poisoning Bodanarko fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Sep 15, 2021 |
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Sep 15, 2021 03:48
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NofrikinfuN posted:Thanks for the recommends. If nothing else I will definitely go for matte finishes to mitigate the lines. On that note, do I need any special nozzles? The only options during the order were powder finish build plate which I skipped over and filament sensor which I added. I'm fine printing default sizes while I am figuring things out, but I'd like to push how fine it can print detail at some point. Duh nitrile not latex, bad brains from all the resin inhalation/absorption probably. With cure and wash you should be good to go without a toothbrush, they are pretty effective. I haven’t ever needed a finer nozzle than .4 but I got a variety pack of cheap ones on Amazon (.1-1.0) just for fun and you can blow through filament and print things very quickly (if not prettily) using a .8/1.0 nozzle. Having a resin printer, I think all your detail work would end up on that instead of requiring smaller nozzles but I’m sure there’s some application.
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Sep 15, 2021 05:14
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:Can you not get/use like industrial chemical resistant gloves? The super thick kind. When I was printing a lot I used heavy thick reusable dishwashing type gloves when doing things like filling/emptying vats or cleaning, stuff that doesn’t require lots of fine motor or detail, had no issues using the same pair for months. Wiped them down with IPA if they had any resin contact and had no issues.
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Sep 15, 2021 17:05
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Trabant posted:Hi all. I'm a total novice looking for a sanity check on a design's printability and hoping you can help me out. This is what I put together in Tinkercad: I would lose the feet and print right side up. If you want to print the feet still you could either just print and attach them after, either by leaving it flush, leaving an indent/pin for placement or what have you.
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Sep 16, 2021 20:29
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poverty goat posted:I was thinking about buying a sub-$200 3d printer to shoot off small things like training aids for my weed plants and stuff like drip rings and fittings and parts for peristaltic pumps for my imaginary future hydro setup, but people I know with 3d printers told me I'd end up wanting to dump $300 into it and should just start with a $500 printer. And if that's still the case, it's not worth it to me. But I'm really not in it to print multicolored artisinal barnacle jim dildos, just simple plastic parts, so is a stock Ender 3 really going to be that bad? I don't mind some tinkering as long as it's not a constant struggle to keep it running. Nah you can definitely get by with a stock ender for a long time. Only *must* upgrade is probably the metal extruder since the plastic ones break always. Under 10 bucks on Amazon usually
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Sep 19, 2021 15:50
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What’s the secret to getting lychee supports to work? I love the features of the program but spent half the day today trying to get a mini printed (photon mono x, elegoo normal white) but light/medium supports and fixing all islands still resulted in total failure of anything other than supports 5x. Prusaslicer auto supports on the same exact mini with the same exact print settings worked perfectly fine but I would like to be able to cut out that part of the workflow.
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Sep 26, 2021 06:25
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you post a screen? How is it failing? Just complete failure of anything beyond supports, imprint of the mini left on the FEP. Ratcheting up exposure would probably “fix” it but I am overexposing as is, and these same print settings work fine for a mini supported with Prusa auto supports. I’ve tried manual light, manual medium, a mix of the two, adding in heavy supports to anchor, tried the “magic” button with medium and light but they all fail the same. I’ve been consistently printing minis with chitu or prusaslicer supports for 2 years and I’m just baffled at how ineffective these supports are for me.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:18
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I’ll post a screenshot and settings when I get back to the computer. My first guess was resin but I printed the same mini using prusaslicer auto supports and had no issues with that same resin/machine.
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Sep 27, 2021 05:46
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If it’s curling straight out of the nozzle, another culprit could be a clogged nozzle, google “ender cold pull” and see if you get anywhere with that. It’s free to try!
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Oct 1, 2021 21:37
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Aren’t you talking about an open box/bezos refurbished product anyways?
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Oct 2, 2021 19:44
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poverty goat posted:Advertised as usable There’s issues with creality QC and many obvious flaws with ender 3/pro/V2 out of the box but it seems like your gripes should be pointed more at rocket boy than hobbyist 3D printing goons in this case
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Oct 2, 2021 19:49
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E3D also debuted a new nozzle. Some buzzword name I can’t recall, claim it’s basically wear proof and plastic doesn’t stick to it, but it’s E3D so probably closer to the truth than you might think. Price is similar to NozzleX. All this from a YouTube interview with one of their awkward fellows.
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Oct 3, 2021 00:33
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Honestly, I only clean/lube/level etc after a fuckup or if I’m changing resins drastically. Probably should do more but I’ve put bottles and bottles through my OG Mars without doing more than rubbing some lube on the lead screw occasionally. FEP replace definitely only when I’m getting bad artifacts from wear on it or obviously if it’s punctured.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:40
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Probably want to make sure you seal the imprint tools with some kind of varnish or clear coat since resin has weird properties and can never really be counted on to be skin safe, wouldn’t want to transfer that onto soap
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Oct 3, 2021 13:47
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:Anything I should know about screwing into pla? I got some AliExpress svideo sockets that expect to be screwed into whatever, so it needs to hold solidly enough for removing tight cables but it's not weight bearing or the like. Best options are doing a captured nut like Prusa does on their 3D printed printer parts, or metal heat set screw inserts for anything that may be screwed in more than once. If it’s a one time deal then I’ve gotten away with just making a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw (including threads) and making sure to have extra perimeters so there’s lots of plastic to deform around the screw.
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Oct 3, 2021 14:51
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poverty goat posted:What's the deal w/ cheap bulk brass nozzles? You get what you pay for. Higher likelihood of burrs and poor machining on inside & maybe bungled threads. That being said, that’s all I buy for my squad of Prusa mini+s & mk3Ss and an E3pro. Quality E3D nozzles are cheap enough that it’s probably worth the cost but I’ve never had any issues with the cheapos.
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Oct 3, 2021 19:33
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Yeah I don’t know about nozzles that are *that* cheap lmao, I’ve been getting 24-30 for around 8 bucks on Amazon and that’s as cheap as I’d go.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:05
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Latest uncle jessy video is a great demonstration of 3d scanning via phone that doesn’t suck rear end. Using EM3D (free but 6.99 to unlock exporting .OBJ) and an iPhone or iPad with FaceID, you can use the front facing camera and FaceID IR array to get very high quality 3D scans of faces/heads (presumably things head sized or larger would work too). Then using whatever 3D modeler of your choice, you can clean it all up and print, or in his case, use it as a template for making a mask. Far and above better than any results I got with photogrammetry alone even with the LIDAR on some iPhones, and I’ll have nice busts printed out in FDM and in resin tomorrow from 10 minutes spent scanning and cleaning up the scan.
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Nov 1, 2021 06:03
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I have printed 15+ benchies across 5 different MINI+ with that same stock gcode with no stringing, so I don’t know how well that will solve your problem.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:13
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withak posted:They have demoed the next Prusaslicer beta showing a material/color painting tool similar to the support painting tool that is in there now. It appeared to be a pretty fiddly manual process, not sure if there exists any official way to make something like an stl with the differing colors/materials built in. The usual way is by having each different “part” be a separate part or object, so it’s easy to designate those parts as a different color or material. This is how Cura did it last time I played with a dual extruder (2019?) I put down a deposit, I can’t really see myself needing more than 2 extruders but who knows what I will decide later on.
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Nov 18, 2021 19:20
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Unless the free end of the spool is totally loose it’s probably fine.
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Nov 19, 2021 22:00
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InternetJunky posted:Getting a weird issue right now on one of my Mono X machines. Using the same settings and resin I've been using for months, all of a sudden my prints are brutally overexposed (fused supports, impossible to remove, etc). The same file on my other Mono X prints fine. Double check that the exposure % isn’t higher than the others on the machine? Idk how that would happen but it’s all I can think of beyond the screen failing weirdly
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Nov 23, 2021 04:45
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Ygolonac posted:Dumb question time - for general use (PLA/PETG), is it OK to have minor gaps (not more than 1/4 inch) at the enclosure edges? Enclosure really isn’t necessary at all for PLA or PETG unless you are in a particularly drafty and cold room.
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Jan 16, 2023 06:15
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Can’t link now but I got the double sided PEI Comgrow one for under $20 on Amazon and have had no issues. That sounds fairly normal, I’ve had PLA leave residue on prusa PEI sheets and the ender magnetic beds previously, never printed on glass. Shouldn’t affect adhesion but can affect the underside of your print’s finish if that concerned you.
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Jan 19, 2023 20:54
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Does anyone in here have experience with the Bambu flat PEI sheet and printing PLA mostly? I have no interest in slathering a cool plate with glue but I’ve heard that the PEI sticker on the flat sheet delaminates after a very low number of prints and is just considered a “consumable”. Bambu redditors wave that off but coming from using a prusa mini and printing constantly on one sheet for 2 years that sounds insane.
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Jan 26, 2023 18:12
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Neptune 3 Plus back in stock on elegoo’s site for the US. I’ve been very impressed by what I’ve seen in reviews of the Pro/Plus/Max and have been wanting something with a larger build volume than my Prusa Mini+ and E3Pro. I’m just lucky the max isn’t available because I would have absolutely bought it just for printing exactly one 1kg rainbow articulated dragon and never anything that large again
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Jan 30, 2023 20:26
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Yeah I love the idea, especially building something with a big build volume that can actually run fast enough to make use of it, but 1k+ cost of that much ABS and the hassle of printing it just has me waiting for a Bambu XL or whatever
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Feb 1, 2023 19:25
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+1 for the dual drives. Got one when my wife was stuck with one of the Macs with no USB-A for work, using a dongle was a pain every time we wanted to use our Mini+ and it’s a great solution for that
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Feb 3, 2023 23:56
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My Neptune 3 Plus is finally on the way and I need some bulk filament for printing giant trinkets. Is the IIIDmax PLA+ any good for the 11.99 price point? E: 11.40 price point after coupon Bodanarko fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Feb 10, 2023 |
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Feb 10, 2023 16:18
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tater_salad posted:Overature Prints real nice.. but when you can get 10 rolls for 115 bux.. you cant say no for IIIDmax Yeah I’m a slut for overture matte PLA but the price on IIDmax is too hard to resist
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Feb 10, 2023 19:41
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Chainclaw posted:Anyone know of good, simple options for setting up a remote camera to watch stuff, that isn't Octoprint? Uncle Jessy just made a video about using Wyze cameras for watching 3d prints, and using that + a smart plug to give remote kill power. But yeah lasers are a different beast and can go from 0 - HOUSE FIRE in no time flat
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Feb 11, 2023 21:55
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Thankful this Bowden coupler failed while changing filaments and not in the middle of the print! I think it was a result of a wisp of filament stuck in the Capricorn tubing causing a jam that led to the coupler failing instead of grinding the filament I guess. 
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Feb 23, 2023 20:47
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'm trying to get my Prusa mini dialed in Did you reseat the PTFE tube/raise the heartbreak? Common issue with the mini even without sitting in a garage
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Mar 12, 2023 04:33
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Fermentation belt as resin bottle/vat heater works great! Up until you forget to plug it back in and your first print in 2 years on your (non mono) OG mars fails overnight, at which point you remember that the ancient printer doesn’t have a FEP/Vat cleaning mode and you have to clean the fucker by hand. Was spoiled by my Mono X at work
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Mar 14, 2023 21:26
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Anyone have experience with the Creality Halot Lite? Looking for a mono printer with a 8.9” screen and it’s considerably cheaper than competitors like the Saturn & Mono X. Is it that bad?
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Mar 17, 2023 16:11
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Prusament is imo some of the cleanest printing and objectively most consistent and well wound filament. It comes at price premium though. $30 plus shipping is a lot when you can get decent filament for near 10 and very good filament for 20. The big killer is shipping, which fully priced me out of buying any these days. If you are ordering a printer then treat yourself though. MK3s kits come with a 1kg spool of non prusament PLA that is pretty good, or at least they used to.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:11
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queeb posted:i was looking at the bambulabs p1p as my next printer but is it really worth over just getting another like, 2-3 ender 3 neos? I'm basically looking at throughput and space, and im not sure the p1p is faster than 2 or 3 neos. Depends on the specifics of your space and the nature of the prints. If it’s many small/short prints then yeah more printers will effectively print as fast or faster with added flexibility. Larger prints will tilt it more towards the P1P and obviously 1 machine takes up less space than 2 or 3. P1P is also louder if that factors in. That said, if you already have a neo or more I would probably tend towards just getting more as having a standardized set of printers that share common firmware/settings/parts, especially given that Bambu parts are proprietary and there aren’t a ton of 3rd party options available yet.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:57
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