3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

becoming posted:

I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion?

I am. It works fine, but I wouldn�t bother with it if I was setting things up again.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2021 23:55

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ May 21, 2024 04:23

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

The lower entry price also makes it more of a �get one and figure out what to do with it� investment - it�s a lot harder to justify dropping the extra 400+ on something if you don�t have a clear plan to utilize it from day one. 100 or 200 is much closer to impulse purchase territory, and if you do use it a ton you can spend on the QoL upgrades down the road.

# ¿ Sep 4, 2021 19:27

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Scarodactyl posted:

When would you typically choose abs over petg? For my basic functional parts petg has always been good enough and quite low hassle (aside from the stringing, though that's partially my fault for not keeping it properly dry) but I have kind of wondered what I'm missing with abs. It's one thing to see bullet points on a site or whatever, but I'm curious about people's real-world decision making.

PETG flexes more so you might want ABS on applications where the increased rigidity is desirable. And ABS has better options for post-processing.

(I�ve never felt a need to print anything in ABS.)

# ¿ Sep 12, 2021 22:03

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

3D printers are tools, not consumer electronics, and like all tools they require setup, tuning, and maintenance.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2021 19:39

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Sagebrush posted:

That or he's got the heat break installed backwards, with the long part in the block and the short bit in the heat sink.

To illustrate: it should go like this.

# ¿ Oct 17, 2021 22:48

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Also make sure you didn�t just screw the heartbreak too far into the heat block - that narrow unthreaded section should be visible outside of the heat block, but the threading goes all the way through (because you�re going to thread the nozzle to mate with the heatbreak inside) so it�s completely possible to excessively thread the heat break and wind up with it too close to the block the way your picture appears to show.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2021 01:14

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

The screws in that hotend don�t seem meaningfully different from the screws that connect the cage in a Mosquito to the heat block, so not exactly sure why anyone would think that it�s a design problem given how well regarded that design is.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2021 20:21

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Deviant posted:

My MK3S worked as soon as i finished building it, why can't this be the same?

Isn�t the whole point of paying more for a Prusa that you can have *them* help fix it?

# ¿ Nov 7, 2021 17:15

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Roundboy posted:

There are a bunch, but they all seem to be set for a 40 or 50 mm fan at what, 15 or 25 mm thick.

I was using the petsfang one, who seems to have actually published fluid charts and results, but I did try the herome one but didn't install since my large assortment of metric screws did not have one long enough. I am trying to currently use the design for a single 5015 fan

Good luck with what you choose, since all designs seem to badly suffer from poor file management and instructions as they make and update designs, and even worse when you add on bltouch or other parts. Look towards remixes as well

Hangtight�s designs are pretty self-contained - just pick the one with the correct hotend/config for what you want. (For example, the fully stock hotend/extruder is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179892.)

# ¿ Nov 22, 2021 00:11

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Oh, thanks, I'll look into that then. I must have misunderstood the CNCKitchen video where he was saying that the stock fan design cools both the part and the heatsink together. I took that to mean there was only one fan, I guess not.

I guess I should probably be printing out of ABS or some other high-temp filament given the amount of hot air that will be flowing through these and the proximity to the hotend?

Could have either meant that the stock design spills heatsink cooling air over the part (quite possible) or that the electronics for the part cooling fan and the *electronics* cooling fan (the one that cools the printer mainboard in the enclosure) are tied together so that the electronics cooling fan only runs when the part cooling fan is running, which is definitely an issue on older Ender-3s and I don't know if Creality ever fixed it.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2021 19:51

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Javid posted:

I would like to know more as well - I've got Christmas gifts planned that will require me to crack open my first roll of white, and I'm curious what kind of adjustments are involved with getting it to chooch

Honestly just treat it like any other new filament - run a temp tower and pick a good temp and you�ll likely be good to go.

# ¿ Dec 17, 2021 02:45

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Ambrose Burnside posted:

e: whoops

Alternately, where is 100% infill actually indicated? My thinking is that if you�re doing that for mechanical reasons, you�re almost always better-served by increasing the shell thickness first, the area always subject to most of the stress/strain, and/or modifying the part geometry (changing proportions, adding ribs/flanges, etc) to improve its structural properties

I�ve used it when I wanted to make an object heavier and didn�t feel like finding a way to insert metal/sand into the inside.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2022 00:19

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

GotDonuts posted:

Just noticed my hot end is oozing filament out from under the silicone cover, I assume I must rebuild my hot end now. Any tips for tackling this?

Ender3v2 is my printer.

You probably didn�t tighten your nozzle properly and left a gap between nozzle and heatbreak.

Leave hot end hot, with cover off. Scrape off all the oozed filament while it�s warm. Remove nozzle, replace properly (you don�t want to have the nozzle tight against the heater block, you want to have some space there, and then have it tightened up til it contacts the heatbreak inside the heater block.)

E: and if I sounded critical I didn�t mean it - I had the exact same experience of oozing filament due to not tightening properly. Good news is that once you tighten the nozzle properly, it�ll work - you almost certainly haven�t permanently damaged anything.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2022 01:00

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Sockser posted:

https://www.theverge.com/23012424/anker-first-3d-printer-ankermake-m5-price-specs-launch

250mm/s?!
How
On a bed slinger
How.

E:
Oh Jessy already has one

https://youtu.be/1R14iuPkNAA

Why is the display on the gantry?

# ¿ Apr 6, 2022 18:31

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Hadlock posted:

I think the fans are controlled via PWM can you just modify it in firmware? Might even be dynamic based on gcode criteria and machine state

PWM changes the effective voltage by changing the average time full voltage is on, and depends on inertia of the fan to modulate

You could PWM the output of the buck converter but you'd need a more complex setup (dual transistor/half-bridge with flyback diode should do it, I think? or use a proper driver IC) because then you're doing PWM across an inductive load.

But, if you're doing an Ender3 and want to use 24V fans, you could run two 12V fans in series as an easier solution.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 22:11

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

That will (generally) work on a PWM controlled fan, where the fan takes a PWM as a separate input. That�s the technique used for CPU fans and similar.

That�s not generally what 3D printers (at least Ender 3s) do, though - they�re turning the fan supply voltage on and off to create an averaged DC voltage. Your setup would just feed constant 12V power to the fan.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 23:30

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Yeah, I misread your configuration (it�s like there�s a reason circuits get diagrammed instead of described in text when people aren�t just shitposting), that should work fine.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2022 03:20

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Semiconductors are rocks we taught to do math, witchcraft seems just as likely!

# ¿ Apr 18, 2022 22:21

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

GotDonuts posted:

Still working on converting the middle shelf of my print table to a 10 spool rack to feed my palette, any suggestions on how to make the passthroughs for the filament to go through the table to the palette without sacrificing the controlled box I have made to keep filament dry? I will only need 8 holes to feed the colors to the palette.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989587 or something of that general type works fine.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2022 00:36

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Ego Trip posted:

Oh uh

Obviously I've removed the nozzle, but something has gone very wrong. There's a wad of plastic all over in there

I would bet that when you most recently changed nozzles, you didn�t fully tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak, leading to plastic oozing out the top of the heat block.

(I would bet that because when I did it it looked like that.)

# ¿ Apr 27, 2022 22:33

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

ToxicFrog posted:

The drawback, as you noticed, is that if it goes wrong you've wasted more material. It also has some implications for the actual print process; if you're printing sequentially, it restricts how you can lay things out on the build plate, and if you're printing in parallel, it means each layer spends more time cooling in the air before the print head gets back to that object -- which I think is generally ok but don't quote me on that.

If you�re using Octoprint and set it up properly in PrusaSlicer (no idea if Cura supports this), there are plugins that let you individually cancel objects during the print, so if you notice one is hosed up you can kill it while letting the rest complete.

# ¿ May 18, 2022 02:14

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Set your X min to -3.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2022 00:05

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Marsupial Ape posted:

I already ordered a 3 pack. That usually end the ritual and summons the lost thing.

edit: And the sock is to keep the head insulated for efficiency? I had not considered that.

And because filament tends to not stick as well to the sock as to the metal heat block so wisps and whatnot are less likely to collect on your hot end.

# ¿ Jul 25, 2022 00:50

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

mewse posted:

eSun ABS+

Or PETG if you don�t want to deal with ABS.

# ¿ Aug 24, 2022 22:32

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Unperson_47 posted:

I tried a silicone sock on the hotend but filament found its way under it and filled the sock. It has done this twice so I will no longer trust it. My heating block and nozzle will just have to look horrible with caked-on burnt filament.

Are you sure that the filament inside the sock came from what was going down to the plate and not from molten filament oozing out the top because you didn�t properly tighten your nozzle?

Not, uh, not that I�d know from experience or anything.

# ¿ Aug 27, 2022 21:03

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Now post one where the bottom is actually in focus.

# ¿ Oct 10, 2022 02:51

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

BMan posted:

enjoy your burnt eggs I guess

Nah, you just cook em in a pool of bacon grease.

# ¿ Oct 13, 2022 19:39

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Sagebrush posted:

Well, that's actually one case where you may be just fine with little experience. Impossible to say for sure without seeing the file, but you can probably just open the STL in blender, set it to edit mode (tab), select the vertices that make up the mating surface that doesn't quite fit, and then move or scale them so that the geometry is a little smaller / larger as needed to increase the clearance. The exact dimension probably doesn't matter and it should be easy to identify which vertices you need to move.

If it�s tight but almost there, you could also print the inserts at 99.5% scale to make a little bit of extra clearance while still remaining usable. (YMMV depending on how tight the tolerances for what goes inside are.)

# ¿ Nov 4, 2022 20:13

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Sagebrush posted:

3D printed guns concern me for the situation where a 13-year-old kid with no thoughts other than "guns are cool" downloads the parts and prints one at the library, steals some bullets from his dad, and then goes out into the woods to go shooting and blows off his hand because he didn't understand the difference between PLA and ABS and the design was barely functional in the first place.

Probably won�t think guns are cool after that, at least.

# ¿ Dec 29, 2022 01:10

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Javid posted:

If a random kid can get a (long, complicated, probably requiring multiple attempts) gun print past the library staff, the existence of the gun STL is not the point of failure

Also if the kid�s dad is leaving ammo lying around he�s also not locking up his guns, so the kid is just going to take the real gun, not the janky bullshit print.

# ¿ Dec 29, 2022 01:17

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Leakage inside the boot is usually because the nozzle and heatbreak aren�t properly snugged up to one another, so there�s a gap for the molten plastic to ooze out of.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2023 04:44

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Roundboy posted:

I accidently melted my duct on my ender, and i can't remember what remix of a remix i printed for it, so I looked into the Hero Me ecosystem.

I printed the base, the adaptor, the front part cooling fan mount, and the bltouch mount, and OH MY GOD this thing is stupid in its design and attachment. I ended up not even using the bltouch because it doesnt git anywhere, my old original metal part ended up fitting and hacking its way on.

This thing is huge, no cabler management, and i refuse to pay $3 to figure out how he wants these 300 parts to fit together. I know he wants it because once you pay that $3 and see how it fits and what it looks like, you end your desire for it.

Sooo, what is the simple dual duct hotness? Stock hotend fan, single 5015 part cooler, bltouch. its so simple it almost doesn't exist.

I cobbled this thing together enough to print its replacement, or i can do it on the voron but im balls deep into tuning and testing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179892

Simple design, works well (or at least its V6 direct drive cousin does.)

# ¿ Mar 28, 2023 02:32

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Not sure if you�ve already tried it but either plug it into a USB2 port or run it through a USB2 hub - sometimes older USB devices don�t work right on USB3 ports.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 22:24

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Mistaken For Bacon posted:

Is this what a broken heat break looks like?

Could also be a case of not tightening the nozzle against the heat break properly.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2023 03:10

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

mewse posted:

Has anyone seen a prusa style magnetic bed for enders like this one for cheap on aliexpress?

https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/coll...=39979294982226 - not Ali, but significantly cheaper. (I have one, it�s decent.)

# ¿ Sep 5, 2023 21:46

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Listerine posted:

Yeah, I know. Just literally don't have the time for it right now. I'll make this a rainy day project in November.

gently caress it, anyone have a recommendation for a starter soldering kit?

https://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE has done well by me.

# ¿ Sep 20, 2023 05:16

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

Bondematt posted:

Congrats!!!

Unrelated, but I think I hate PETG? Maybe just Hatchbox black sucks, but I had to slow it down a ton on my P1S to get it to print without craters in the outer wall. Drying helped with some boogering, but did nothing for the inconsistent gaps in the wall.

Black PETG is kind of a nightmare for similar reasons to white PETG - PETG really wants to be more or less transparent, so getting a good black or white requires a lot of pigment, which doesn't melt the same way.

# ¿ Jan 13, 2024 07:15

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ May 21, 2024 04:23

Kalman: Jan 17, 2010

kid sinister posted:

I'm more worried about her chewing on prints when I'm not looking.

Honestly I would probably worry more about her chewing it into sharp little shreds which cut up her insides than PLA toxicity. Either way, try not to leave anything chewable, printed or otherwise, within puppy reach.

(Everything is chewable. Based on the last puppy we had, this includes:

An entire pizza, box included.
Chair legs.
People legs.
Our baseboard molding, somehow?
Food.
Food bowl.
Mat food bowl sat on.
Kids toys.
Half of a couch.)

# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 00:47

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker