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Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

I've been 3d printing for jewellery applications for 6-7 years now and it wasn't until the last few years I took resin handling seriously with gloves. Thanks goons for reminding me it's a good idea to be as safe as possible.

I don't have much knowledge in the area of chemical safety, so is repeated exposure something that would then make you allergic or sensitive to it over time?

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Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Ambrose Burnside posted:

Do any of these new alternative resin vendors offer niche-y engineering/casting/mechanical resins, or just figurine modelling/‘abs-like” common offerings? i’m not wedded to siraya but i don’t think there are any alternatives to specialized stuff like Sculpt Ultra.

The company that makes my printer makes resins with different properties, but they're not inexpensive.

They're called B9 Creator, lots of niche stuff. People have been printing molds with the flexible resin to use for wax injection.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Sagebrush posted:

I made this to play flight simulator




All of the parts work like in a real plane -- so the trim wheel spins around multiple times, the flap lever has detents, the landing gear lever locks up and down and has to be pulled out to unlatch, the friction adjusters on the sliders work, and the key switch has all five detents including the spring-return start position. I am particularly proud of the key switch because it's entirely 3D printed, even the spring, except for one BB used to get a nice clicky detent.

This is awesome and I would love to know if you made any sort of build log for it. It would be really cool to make one or even get an idea of where to start!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

There is a belt tensioning tool on the prusa site but I think it needs to be printed in PETG

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

I've been wanting to scratch the itch of small modelling (like Warhammer but not into wargames) and would rather do one offs instead of a whole army. Does anyone have favourite places to get cool small models to print? I like supporting artist patreons so if that's an option, that would be great! Warhammer scale would be perfect, and I prefer fantasy, but would be down for scale models of real things as well. Basically just looking for something fun to print, assemble, and paint.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Epic miniatures is great. I support em, they generally put out 2 sets a month and 2 of their old sets as well. Great detail, and some amazing models. I think this months throwback has a pirate ship set you can build.

This is the one that got me to sign up:

awesome, thanks!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

InternetJunky posted:

Come join us in the traditional games forum where we have a thread dedicated to miniature printing.
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3959573

In terms of specific patreons, there are currently over 200 patreons producing monthly batches of miniatures for people so you're spoiled for choice. Some of the big ones to check out: titan forge, loot studios, archvillain games, cast n play, dragon trappers lodge, highlands miniatures, lord of the print. I back over 20 of them myself so I could keep going here but a lot will depend on the style you like.

Awesome, thank you!!


Doctor Zero posted:

Depends on what you want, but here are the ones I think do great work (Disclaimer: I am a merchant for these companies)
Signum Workshop (nice style): https://www.patreon.com/signumgames
Great Grimoire (unique subjects): https://www.patreon.com/greatgrimoire
Highlands Miniatures: (these are more geared to armies, but the models are BETTER than GW IMO) https://www.patreon.com/highlands_miniatures


And one that I personally sub because I think makes cool minis (no merchant tier):
Cyber forge: https://www.patreon.com/cyberforgeminis/posts
There is a sister fantasy themed one - Titan Forge.

Thanks!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Scarodactyl posted:

I love 3d printing so much.
I just put this gem photography system together for someone and needed to add a glass plate, iris and gem holder to an old industrial microscope base. This would have been a huge pain by pretty much any other method.


This is awesome!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Do people have glove recommendations? I use the black nitrile ones (I know they're not chemical resistant) but want to upgrade to something better now that I'm using resin daily.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Wanderless posted:

We had a ProJet almost a decade ago--it made beautiful prints, and had a pretty decent workflow especially for the time. It used wax for its support material, which led to my favorite way of removing supports: A deep fryer.
It got retired when one of the print heads went bad and the replacement would have been 2/3 the cost of an entire new machine.

They get used a lot in the jewellery industry because wax burns out so much easier than resin for casting. The reason people still opt for resin is exactly this, repairs and maintenance on wax based printers can get excessive.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Tremors posted:

I modeled a name tag stake for my plants. Should help keep the garden a bit more organized this summer.



Wow I love this, looks awesome!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Scarodactyl posted:

I don't do resin printing, but do you think I'm right to tell my friend not to spend 10k on one of these for live prototyping of rings? https://www.b9c.com/products/b9-core-series
It seems to me like he could probably export his models and print them on a normal resin printer but maybe there is something I am missing.

This is a ways back but I have one of these specifically for jewellery models that I take to casting. Currently I print about 100+ rings a month and the speed + not having to replace any sort of FEP or whatever is something I really enjoy. That being said I bought one when they were sub 10k USD, definitely harder to justify it as just a model printer to show clients or whatever.

Also I don't use B9 casting resins, they have given me mixed success. I use Resinworks Easycast 200 and it does an amazing job using their resin profile. It's like the professional level people want from Envisiontec but without all the enormous amount of bullshit (and cost) that comes with Envisiontec.

Claes Oldenburger fucked around with this message at 01:06 on May 20, 2022

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Does anyone have any tips on getting better bridging with PETG on my Prusa Mk3S+? For the most part it prints beautfully but it does seem to have some issues with bridging and sagging. I'm using prusament PETG

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

I dont understand how people clean their IPA in sunlight. Everytime I do it creates this *disgusting* white blob in the bottle. Maybe it's the resin type? I just leave the bottle inside to settle and that works well enough.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Does anyone have experience with XTC-3D? I made some light staffs (staffs with led light bars on the top) for a large art project last year and because of the weather (fine desert dust), 42c heat, and general wear and tear from them being swung about they unfortunately broke.

I’m planning on making round two this year and was hoping xtc-3D would give them the strength they need to stand up to the desert.

Oh and this time I’m not going to print them with 2 outer layers and 20% infill lol. Because of the heat they are PETG, which seemed to work well!

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Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Acid Reflux posted:

XTC-3D is really just meant for filling layer lines and isn't going to add any structural strength on its own. No single outer coating will, really - strength comes from compositing, like using resin and a fiberglass or carbon fiber weave to wrap the whole surface.

Depending on the size and shape of your staff (:quagmire:), you could see about punching a longitudinal hole through the 3D model/models, and then stuffing a wooden or metal dowel into it to add quite a lot of extra strength.

Ah okay thanks. Yeah right now the aluminum broom handle goes through the center, but maybe a redesign as well as printing with more outer layers and denser infill will help. Thanks!

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