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drat, if you had a wee bit more room, you could have used proper wiring channels and everything  Looks really, really good though!
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Jul 19, 2021 22:29
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Some jackass probably figured out that it was a reasonable compromise between printing speed and detail, and had some source of them that wasn't exorbitantly expensive.
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Jul 21, 2021 00:50
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I don't particularly want to build one myself, but they're really neat and print really fast.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:46
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Scarodactyl posted:Back in the 90s my dad made a router table specifically to cut more brio tracks. They were a very popular gift. That's amazing 
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Aug 10, 2021 09:19
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Dark Off posted:with PETG the problem is too much adhesion. That's why Prusa made the (textured) powdered coat sheet, and then later on the satin sheet that has a finer texture. No glue stick required.
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Aug 20, 2021 09:32
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I unfucked the heatbreak on my Mini+ and now it's a complete champ, no issues whatsoever (Having said that, I'm sure it will gently caress up in some annoying way tomorrow)
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Aug 28, 2021 03:25
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I have a lightly modded Prusa i3 Mk2.5 and a Mini+. The Mk2.5 has been entirely problem-free after I got rid of the MMU2, and the Mini+ suffered from the heatbreak/ptfe tube issue and has given me a fair amount of grief dealing with that. The Mini is a weak design, I wouldn't recommend it for print farm use, better to get an Mk3s(+) for that type of work.
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Sep 4, 2021 21:12
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That's a fire hazard.
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Sep 8, 2021 07:33
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Chainclaw posted:Second print after the test print is looking fine. Could be improved, but it's better than anything I've gotten off my previous two printers. How's your belt tension looking?
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Sep 9, 2021 09:48
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I think he's hinting at the horizontal pattern on your prints that looks like belts are too tight. That was the implication (  ), you can read out the tension in the menu on the mk3s.
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Sep 9, 2021 19:58
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I sold my MMU2S, it was annoying enough to deal with for single filament printing
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Sep 10, 2021 16:56
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I'd spend my money elsewhere. Prusa isn't pursuing the current MMU line at all, as far as I know. They've even teased a tool-changing setup for their upcoming Prusa XL printer.
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Sep 10, 2021 18:45
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Print a 3x3" first layer calibration file and adjust it as it prints, should be fairly easy to dial in.
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Sep 24, 2021 14:10
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My Mini+ is rapidly becoming my go-to printer after I fixed the heatbreak issue I guess it's time to list the Mk2.5 soon...
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Sep 27, 2021 20:00
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My only grief has been self inflicted (MMU2) or an easy fix (move heat break) so far with the cursed P-name printers
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Oct 1, 2021 19:14
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Javid posted:Right, I was also under the general impression that a bed being sold for money would be flat enough to function as such. Where are people buying these pringle-shaped beds and why would you throw more money at that problem instead of having a defective product immediately replaced? I guess they just can't stand sending their money to Czechia.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:12
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withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
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Oct 13, 2021 09:38
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I'm not printing enough to justify having two printers, so I guess the Mk2.5 has to go
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Oct 16, 2021 15:59
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Deviant posted:all this talk about having a "long duration" and "short projects" printer makes me want a prusa mini to go next to my mk3s Or a small Voron? 
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Oct 20, 2021 16:02
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The Eyes Have It posted:There used to be until everyone went blind 
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Oct 20, 2021 18:33
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Both my Prusas print PLA at 210-215 with the default PLA profiles, so I don't know
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Oct 21, 2021 16:28
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Deviant posted:It's a brand new sealed sample from prusa and it had been out of the bag, oh, 5 minutes? While I loaded. Print some filament you have that you know prints well in a different printer?
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Nov 6, 2021 19:17
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Check the heatbreak spacing, they're still shipping new units where that isn't to spec. I had issues with clogging as a result of that, but after fixing that it prints really, really well.
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Nov 6, 2021 19:37
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Deviant posted:As a result of this info, which I also saw on google, I did a heatbreak teardown/rebuild. it's definitely to spec now. There is absolutely no gap between nozzle and heatbreak. Between that and the known good filament, if it's still fucky, I'll poke at the idler tension. I used this video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8eoFsOJelg
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Nov 6, 2021 20:02
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It's most likely the filament, my Mini prints a lot cleaner with most PLA filaments I've tried, using the normal Prusaslicer settings (215/210 hotend, 60 bed).
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Nov 6, 2021 23:19
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SEKCobra posted:It's starting to look like the Amazon filament I just started on a few days ago is poo poo. I've had a massive clog on a long print that subsequently failed because of it. I replaced the nozzle, and I am still seeing the same artifacts in the walls (ridges, looks like underextruded walls to me). I guess I should just trash the roll? Or is there some way to check/adjust for that? The bolded part? That's NOT a normal troubleshooting step for when a new (to you) filament acts up, there are other things you should do first. Nozzles will last a good long while if you're printing non-abrasive filament. As the previous poster mentions, dry the filament first, and do a temp tower to figure out the sweet spot for that particular type of filament. They're not all the same. You might just have to run this filament hotter.
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Dec 2, 2021 19:58
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Tramming and Z offset is not the same thing, conflating the two is hardly productive. Mesh bed leveling the way Prusa has solved it is pretty neat and just works™ for most people, as long as your z offset isn't too far out of whack. Dr. Despair posted:Are creality still tinning their wires and creating potential electrical/fire hazards down the road? Cause I have a hard time recommending an ender3 while that's happening, period. And this is a huge part of why I tell people to get a Mini+ (beginner) or consider building a Voron (advanced) if they ask for printer advice
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Dec 17, 2021 16:48
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I'm feeling that Voron urge 
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Dec 31, 2021 02:14
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Hadlock posted:So not a peep from Prusa on the XL since mid November Did they promise an estimate by now?
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Jan 4, 2022 12:43
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3D-print a jig
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Jan 6, 2022 12:56
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pbpancho posted:Prusa Mini for $250 locally. That seems like a pretty dang good deal right? I've got an MK3S+, but it's going enough that a 2nd machine would see use, and it'd be nice to be able to print a part for when I break something (was out of commission for a few days recently when my fan duct got eaten by a blob while I waited to get one from a friend). As long as it's not messed up - yep!
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Jan 11, 2022 07:45
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Every surface the foodstuff touches would have to be food safe. Including the "filament" path in the hotend.
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Jan 14, 2022 20:27
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snail posted:I often use the $17 Rock Pi S with Klipper if I'm not using KlipperScreen or a MIPI camera. Uses practically no power, has wifi, gpio, USB-C, and runs Debian/Ubuntu just fine. People turn their nose up at the 512MB RAM, but only need about 100MB to run Klipper and the rest anyway. The CPU itself is more than fast enough. This is interesting
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Jan 20, 2022 12:52
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I'd just use a 60W 24V heating element on a V0.1, and a lot of the kits come with those as well. I don't trust SSR's
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Jan 27, 2022 20:08
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If you are considering ABS, you might as well look at ASA, IMHO.
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Jan 30, 2022 12:19
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Vorlon? Are you assembling aliens in your basement? What Voron are you building?
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Feb 6, 2022 00:22
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Doctor Zero posted:~~** warble the build has already started. it is too late for the parts to vote warble **~~~ With how hosed logistics is right now, a complete kit is probably the most cost-effective. Nero3D on youtube has some videos about that. Don't worry, it's tedious enough to build a Voron even if you get the entire BOM delivered in one box (sans printed ABS/ASA parts), it's by no means a Prusa building experience.
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Feb 6, 2022 04:13
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More or less, yeah. I'd build one with the new Revo hotend, being able to (more or less) painfully switch between nozzle sizes comes in handy when dealing with a large print volume.
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Feb 11, 2022 16:20
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88C bed temp is probably too low, I'd use 100C for first layer and 105-110C for the rest of the layers. Let it sit at temperature for a little bit before starting a print, that'll get the enclosure temperature up a bit.
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Feb 13, 2022 12:40
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've upping the bed temp to 100C and did some playing around with fan settings in Cura (leaving it off until the 5th layer, max 30% speed). The first layer seemingly went down well, but when I came to check on the print at around the 75% mark it had come loose from the brim and was wiggling around under the nozzle. I stopped the print and took it out. I noticed that the brim was still reasonably adhered to the bed, however when I went to peel it off the individual lines came apart (with PLA they always stay together in one solid piece). I'm guessing this is what happened to the print; the piece separateed from the brim in the same manner. Go up a few degrees on the hotend. You shouldn't need glue on PEI for ABS.
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Feb 13, 2022 22:34
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