Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Once a resin model was been washed/rinsed off, is it safe to handle with your bare hands, or is it only safe to handle once it's been fully cured?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



biracial bear for uncut posted:

Everything I see on a quick google says "Never touch resin with bare skin until it is fully cured and hardened"

Here's Maker's Muse about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kHcsTG9QsM

He says it multiple times in the video, but jump to the 9:00 mark and listen for a bit.



mattfl posted:

I never touch anything that comes off my resin printer with bare hands until it's been fully cured. It's too easy for resin to sit in little cracks/holes on the model.


Oh, okay. I set up my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and Elegoo Mercury Plus on Sunday, and made the test print that they included (thanks to the person in the previous thread who suggested running them under hot water to get them to pop off to someone else), and I didn't handle them with bare hands until they had gone through the curing station for several minutes, and even then I had washed my hands immediately afterwords. I just wasn't sure if I was being "too cautious" by wearing them for so long (I know, I know, "when dealing with toxins, there's no such thing as too cautious").

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



What's a good, easy to use, free program for 3D modelling? Or at least low-cost if free isn't an option?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Ambrose Burnside posted:

Hard to recommend a single product without knowing more about what you wanna do with it, what the end application is, what kind of learning curve you’re willing to deal with, etc. Fusion360 is the most likely answer to your question, but I would check out the CAD megathread I posted a while back, it may tell you what you want to know- https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532

Short term goal was to make custom bits for minis, the one I have in mind for my first project I'm pretty sure would ultimately just be spheres, cylinders, rectangles and cones (converting an Imperial Knight Armiger into an Epic40k-style Hell Strider specifically). I'll look into people's recommendations this weekend, I'm just too busy at work this week to fiddle with the programs until then.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I'll check it out. Like I said, the original idea is very... basic in what I need (we're talking adaptingsomething made back in the 80's/90's at a 30mm size, so it's fairly light on fine details, to something that's about 6" tall), so I'm hoping that it'll be a good starting point for learning the program.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I know this is a dumb question, but if it's just the front feet each time, and it's always happening in the same spot on the printbed, have you tried printing it elsewhere on the bed and seeing if it still happens? If it's a heated bed, maybe the front feet are just in a cooler/cold spot.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



How do I dispose of resin-tainted IPA from a washing/curing station? Just carefully pour it into a disposable container and stick it outside into direct sunlight and let the IPA evaporate and the resin cure?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



X-posting from the 3d printing for tabletop gaming thread:

I have an odd problem that I hope goons will be able to help solve. I started printing off some AT terrain and... well... the first building printed fine, the second came out as this:


(The first print is on the right, the failed print is on the left)






Its very fragile and "crumbly" on the failed layers. After this print failed, I tried reprinting the first building, it started to print fine, I went to bed, woke up and found the bowden tube had come out of the coupler, so while it failed, I didn't lose any filament. Would the bowden tube coming loose have caused this failure, or should I look at something else as well?

Also, obligatory cat picture:

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

I'd think it was underextrusion caused by the tube coming out. I'd say it's a partial clog if the second print is also crumbly, but if the second print is fine, it was probably the tube.

The first print was fine, a bit of stringing between the windows but nothing 30 seconds with a modeling knife couldn't fix, the second one (the square building with the round pillars) is the one that's crumbly. I'll replace the couplers and bowden tube tonight and try another building as a test print.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



My wife is thinking about getting a 3D printer for her craft room, is the Anycubic Mega S any good? It's currently on sale on Amazon.ca.

I'm wanting something that's fairly easy to put together and doesn't require much in the way of calibrating (and ideally no post-assembly upgrading needed. I had enough of that with the Ender 3 Pro). Basically, something that I can help her get up and running, then she can use without any real fuss. Preferably something that can also take octoprint.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Randalor posted:

*Words about buying my wife a 3D printer*

So last night I gave her the choice between the Monoprice Mini (smaller build plate, but comes pre-assembled so she wouldn't necessarily need my help to get up and running) and the Anycubic Mega S (bigger build plate, lower price due to Amazon sale, but some assembly requires). She decided to go with the Mega S. The reviews I could find online made them sound both fairly beginner friendlyz so in theory both should have worked for her needs. When she said she wanted to make Christmas ornaments with it, I didn't realize she meant 8"+ sized ones.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



biracial bear for uncut posted:

Going to be a lot of fun when she realizes she won't get to make very many 8" Christmas ornaments between now and Christmas unless they're the flat snowflake/clipart type with words/phrases in them.

Oh? I'm curious about why you say that (though most of the ones she showed me were large-but-flat).

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Roundboy posted:

Assuming everything is point and click, meaning it needs no tweaking and you just hit 'print' and go... you are looking at 6-17 hours of printing each depending on the complexity.

A big object doesn't necessarily take longer only because of size, but the more there is NOT a straight continuous line, the more the time goes up. On a large object, even the movements needed to go from one side to another not printing, or skipping over a void add up to a couple hours.


.... and then you might have a problem.

Oh, yeah, I'm pretty sure she knew that just from my ender 3. I was worried there was a filament shortage that I had missed hearing about or something. I think she'll just be happy that she doesn't need to wait for me to finish tinkering/adjusting/replacing parts on the Ender 3 before she can make her own stuff, and this way she can take as long as she wants to clear her build plate and I'm not stuck waiting for her to take her meeples off of the sheet.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



The globe ones she just buys from the dollar store or in bulk at Walmart on the cheap for craft projects. While she can probably save some money printing them with a resin printer, she probably wouldn't want to go through the hassle of the safety precautions and washing and curing the prints. I don't think time is as much of an issue with her, usually when she wanted me to print stuff it was a "Hey can you do a print for me overnight" type of situation.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



What's the maximum thickness I can print something in resin and be sure that a curing station will fully cure it?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Ooooohhhhhh... what is it?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I just like using Octoprint because I'm too dumb to figure out how to set up a webcam without it to check the print job without having to go to the workshop.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



biracial bear for uncut posted:

Just set up your basic Ring webcam?

Didn't you see the part where I said I'm dumb?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



So what is a Pallet 3/Pallet 3 Pro, and is it actually worth paying more than an Ender 3 to get? Is it "just" letting you print with more than 1 color at a time, or is there more to it than that?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Rexxed posted:

It's a device that processes your filament on the way into the printer, cutting it and splicing different colors inline. Like most multimaterial printing you have to purge the hotend with a purge tower along side the print so it's not as seamless as you might think, plus the Palette has to know what you're printing so that it can send the right color along while it's going. They're very neat but there's some filament waste for the purge tower and it's kind of a complicated device.

Joel on 3d printing nerd has had several Palette videos, here's his one on the 3:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4wQiy47opI

So... "just" doing multi-color prints then? While it's a good idea, the stuff I print is either basic enough to not need it, or would probably need to be hand-paintrd after tnr fact anyways.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I haven't had that happen (yet) but the ones I got were apparently designed to be able to "reset" them by baking them in the oven. Maybe if you submerged them in water they would turn to sludge, but I don't think they would do that unless you leave them for years in a humid environment.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



For anyone who has an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro (or Mars 2, I think they use the same size tank), what do you use inside the tank when you replace the FEP film? I know Elegoo's tutorial says to use a piece of foam, but don't actually say anything like how thick of a piece to use.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



How "safe" is 99% IPA that's been used to clean resin? Is it an "Oh poo poo clean it asap" thing if you splash some on your arm or workarea, or is it more of a "finish what you're doing and wash your arm/workstation after"?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Paradoxish posted:

Alright. I'm convinced. Resin printers and resin shouldn't be available to the general public. I can give up my cheap as hell minis.

What do you mean? How bad could it... I'm sorry, the video is titled what? I didn't even watch it, just loaded to video to see the title and already I'm recoiling in terror.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I have a question about Ender 3 Pros and firmware.

I have an Ended 3 Pro that has the 4.2.7 board, the touchscreen LCD (which stemmed from either the old LCD screen not wanting to work with the new board, or I accidentally damaged the LCD cable installing the new board, and the only LCD screens available are the touch ones), and a BL Touch. I'm going to replace the hotend with the Sprite extruder/hotend and picked up a CR Touch to mount on it.

Is the 4.2.7 firmware for the touchscreen and BL Touch compatible with the sprite and CR Touch, or would I need new firmware for them? I've seen people saying contradictory things, some saying they worked out of the box and just needed to adjust offsets and esteps and others saying they needed to make their own version of Marlin to get all 3 to work.

As a side note, any goons have an idiots guide to making your own custom Marlin firmware for Ender 3?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I got a new Ender 3 V3 SE and after doing some minor adjustments (tightening the bed screws, adjusting the z-offset by .01mm because the auto-detect was off slightly) it seems to print decently well. I ran the all-in-one test and it had some problems, are these just from the print speed being too high, or is there something else I should look into adjusting as well?




Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Rexxed posted:

Silk filament can be a pain to print well, I've had to do a lot of tweaking over time to get it going decently. I notice some weird blobs and stuff on your print, which could be just ooze building up on the nozzle and crashing into the parts that tipped over. What kind of speeds are you running?

I was just running the default speeds on Creality's slicer (so 150 mm/s I think? Either way, stupidly fast for silk, and AFAIK the other slicers don't have profiles for the V3 yet so I'm just using this until then). It does seem to be solidly built, and my wife printed off some diamond paint trays without issue at that speed. I turned it down to half speed and it seemed to print better, but I'll continue fine-tuning the speed if that is the only major issue.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I'm trying to make a Hextraction board, but had to go with the 1x5 rows that someone made for the game because the regular board wouldn't fit on my build plate. Does regular super glue work well for use on PLA, and what does super glue not stick well to so I can safely lay the boards down while the glue hardens?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



bird food bathtub posted:

If you want a base of something to lay down for super glue to not stick to very well a piece of glass works, and when you're done put it in a freezer or outside if global warming ever allows us to have winter again. Get CA cold on a piece of glass and it pops right off.

I don't think I have any glass kicking around, but would aluminum baking sheets work? I have some I bought for a different project that didn't get used.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Like, you went to pour it back in but forgot to take the cap off? Oof, that sucks, it is Friday so you can just say you had a long week and laugh it off

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply