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New OP is good and informative, nice. Last one was fine but 11 years old.
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Jul 21, 2021 14:07
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I use OpenSCAD but I'm a software developer with a background in functional programming, and that's a pretty narrow demographic. Bad Munki posted:There’s something really awesome about saying to yourself, “oh dang, I need another one of these weird custom pieces I made a couple years back” and then you just hop on your printer‘s web interface, go to that project’s folder, find the thing, and come back an hour later to retrieve another of the weird custom piece you made a couple years back. I have a coffee grinder handle with a 3d printed prototype. Haven't had time to design the improved version with bearings and the first prototype was wearing out so I could just... print another. Those files still exist. Not ideal but if another 6 months pass before I finish the design, I'll just spend another < $0.25 to print again
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Jul 27, 2021 15:03
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Dominoes posted:Something to consider for those looking into OpenSCAD when comparing CAD programs: In terms of capabilities and productivity, it's not in the same league as programs like Fusion, Inventor, and SolidWorks. I took a snipe at FreeCAD earlier for its messy UI, but I'd recommend FreeCAD over OpenSCAD. You'll find working with practical designs frustrating and slow, and may hit roadblocks. This applies even to someone with a background in coding. I'm posting this because this isn't immediately obvious from articles comparing various CAD platforms. I had a dreadful experience with FreeCAD, culminating in when it crashed and corrupted the file of what I was working on. But I do make simple things. That being said... Combat Pretzel posted:OpenSCAD is something for simple procedural things. If you need to start addressing specific edges or vertices, be it for simple fillets or defining feature aligned planes, you're in a world of hurt. That is, if it's even possible to address specific part features in OpenSCAD. (Is it? I don't know.) Yeah that is a prime example of something far beyond my reach. Not just skill level but software limitation. Maybe it is time to upgrade.
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Jul 27, 2021 23:16
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Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process. I still can't find a reliable source of 95%+ IPA nor can I find Mean Green offline. Been using Everclear, is that still my best bet? I've seen acetone suggested, but don't know if that's actually a good idea or just people loving around, getting passable results, and preaching their new solution. Acetone breaks down nitrile and thus requires different gloves. When should I remove supports? I used to print -> drip dry -> remove from build plate -> remove supports -> wash -> cure. Removing supports after curing would be a harder material, but would allow more care and closer cuts.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:13
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I have had almost every resin print de-laminate recently. It's probably because this Siraya blu clear is over a year old. This question keeps getting brought up in this thread, but who makes a good resin? All I'm doing is printing minis to paint and use on tabletop. For what it's worth, Siraya blu clear was way overkill in strength.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:12
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Hm, that's actually fairly consistent with my experience. For a while Blu was my primary resin with an elegoo fallback, • My blu profile worked for the elegoo resin but not the other way around • My prints would suddenly fail when the weather got too cold (until I fixed the insulation, then it never got hot enough) • Anything "pre supported" would fail where the supports meet the model • The simple bases I made for wargames were never quite the perfect size until I added a bevel to lift them off the build plate I'm not going to toss the blu I have, mixing in a bit sounds like a good plan. How does something like Sculpt have higher surface detail?
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Aug 31, 2021 21:48
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Delivering an uncured model sounds like more effort than just... curing it. And yeah, it's my understanding that when it comes to arts and stuff, people are willing to pay more for better quality. Especially if rapport is built up.
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Aug 31, 2021 23:55
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I want to combine pairs 3d models, what is the easiest way to repeatably do that? They're bases for a war game where facing and base size matters. One part is the outer base. They come in three specific outer diameters by the game rules but otherwise can be changed as I have the scad files. I am interested in a repeatable process because this is how I want to do the bases for many war game models. They look roughly like this:  The other part are the inserts, the artistic parts to put the minis on. They come in all sorts of sizes. I'd need to resize and trim them to fit into the outer bases. Here is an example:  Doing it in the slicer doesn't work because the inserts might poke out below the outer base. I've tried Blender, using boolean transformations. This has been the best solution I've found but centering the inserts is weirdly finicky and the boolean operators sometimes just don't work. OpenSCAD can do it but it's even more finicky than Blender. Printing them as two parts and gluing them isn't out of the question, but doesn't solve the modeling question.
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Sep 10, 2021 01:51
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I am getting a consistent print fail on this one part. The model in question is the Dark Rider by Manuel Boria. Some of these are the pre supported file, some are supports generated by Prusa Slicer. The mount and knight printed fine, but not the head. This is the first time I've used Siraya Tech Fast, but it also failed with Elegoo resin.  This is what the pre supported version looks like  The supports are clearly just, not supporting it. On each failure there has been a very thin silhouette in the shape of the head. Do I just need to keep cranking up the support thickness or is there a number I need to dial in on the print settings? Also, I don't like posting only failures or troubleshooting. I did use the last scraps of the Elegoo resin on this gummi venus de milo I need to clean up. 
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Nov 12, 2021 19:30
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I have an Elegoo Mars. For this resin, my layer exposure time is currently 4 seconds. It was 6 on some of the previous failed prints, did not notice a difference. Lift speed is 70 mm/min. Was 100 mm/min under the same logic. I will try more, thinner supports with a thicker "root" support now. This single part has a short print time so it's been a good test case to dial in the settings.
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Nov 12, 2021 21:02
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Spending the last 10 minutes of a print, staring at it, considering hot swapping the filament: When the print was done:  Weight your filament before a 12 hour print imo.
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Dec 23, 2021 16:54
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Would resin printed buttons be safe to handle? Buttons like on a game controller or keyboard. It's the constant contact with bare skin that I'm uncertain about. Had to fix something in a Switch Pro controller so now I'm very aware of how it's just a few plastic parts around a core with buttons. Might be a filament only job though.
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Feb 10, 2022 22:28
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Sagebrush posted:Once the resin is cured, it's inert. Put it in the sun for a day and it'll be fine. Good to know, thanks for the answer! Does that mean that most resins used in a SLA printers are cured and literally become acrylic? I've been working with acrylic sheets in other projects and knowing the two are the same would let me transfer a lot of knowledge between the two.
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Feb 11, 2022 17:03
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Also, whomever was chuckling at me worrying about 20% infill on parts I was printing for a LACK enclosure (because of the LACK's cardboard infill), I get it now: Looks like a torsion box to me! Which has a lot of mechanical engineering theory behind it that I don't understand, but is an easy way to make something resist bending, reduce weight, and use less materials. It's not uncommon for mass produced furniture, like this conference room table being recycled in some youtube video.  Now that I think about it, Sandwich theory is probably the underling theory to why infill works in 3d printing.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:59
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On an Ender 3, I used to have a PETG Hero Me but the ends of the ducts were a little too close to the heating element and drooped. I've since swapped to a PLA Satsana (remixed to support different fans and BL touch) and I haven't really thought of it since. I sanded it in a way that's ugly but it works well enough that it's not worth redoing just for the cosmetics.
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Feb 24, 2022 20:16
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For PLA and borosilicate glass, I just wait. If it doesn't want to pop off right away, it will when the bed cools. This does necessitate waiting and would slow down a mass production, however.
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Mar 24, 2022 21:04
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I like OpenSCAD because I am a huge computer science nerd, but Autodesk Inventor is like objectively better. I'm still in the learning phase so it's different and I don't like it, but it's undeniably better than OpenSCAD.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:37
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I'm pretty sure I need to replace the FEP film on my Elegoo Mars after never doing so for uh, years. Is it worth it to just get the screens and install them myself or get an entire new tank? Might also be time to finally grab a flexible build plate.
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Apr 7, 2022 01:31
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How would one bond a clear acrylic sheet to PLA? (or PETG if need be) Making a router jig and it would be nice, but not mandatory, to have a transparent window to line things up.
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Apr 9, 2022 14:53
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Hm, I've never had luck with superglue on PLA but it's not load bearing so worth a shot.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:43
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I never thought it would happen to me,  Something about Overture PLA Pro specifically doesn't like my standard PLA settings. edit: rad 
Serenade fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 10, 2022 |
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Apr 10, 2022 13:18
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I have replaced my FEP film and now nothing will print successfully. I didn't have my settings down perfectly before swapping films, but it wasn't a 100% failure rate. The last test print I tired was 5 objects of 1-5 layers each and they all stuck to the film. It is an Elegoo Mars using "Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like" in creamy color. Current slicer settings with anti aliasing at 2:  I have tried leveling with printer paper both with and without the resin tank in place. The only variable I can't verify is FEP tension. The video on the Elegoo youtube page mentions using a sponge of a particular size to get the tension right, I used a cardboard cut out of about that size. I have a magnetic build plate that I can install, but I wanted to do FEP film first then test in case something went wrong to minimize variables. I also need to print a replacement fan shroud for my filament printer, so I'd rather not get frustrated, wait a month, then try again, and fail again. What am I doing wrong?
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Apr 17, 2022 15:57
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I'm currently waiting for a replacement hotend for my Ender 3, can't help but wonder, maybe it's time for a big printer. Are belt printers reasonable yet or still gimmick territory? biracial bear for uncut posted:Don't be that guy on YouTube aerosolizing 3d printing resin via airbrush to attempt to smooth the appearance of a bad model he printed. Is that guy still At Large or has the consequence of his actions caught up yet?
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Apr 20, 2022 01:25
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The real appeal of a big printer to me is in furniture making. I highly doubt anything fully 3d printed will be viable, but I think there's potential in 3d printed components supplementing other materials. Like the seat of a chair: a complex topography with a lot of ergonomic implications. For this example, it is likely that the build area of an Ender 3 is just as good as a Prusa XL's or a belt printer, in that you'd have to print and join a few parts anyway. But when designing parts, it's also very easy to see your current limitations and think that removing them will suddenly make things easy.Deviant posted:Did you peel the protective layer off both sides of the FEP? I don't legally have to answer that question. And now I'm not going to do anything in particular to my resin printer, its FEP film, and I definitely won't have anything to report on after the fact.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:51
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There was indeed a protective layer on the FEP film that I did not remove. Between the new film, easier resin, a dedicated wash and cure station, and better support methods, I don't think resin printing has ever been this easy. First test print:  Weird egg: 
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Apr 21, 2022 13:32
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mattfl posted:Did my first 2 color print yesterday. That looks really cool. I am going to deliberately not look into Voron stuff because I have enough projects to never complete. ...How big do Voron printers get though?
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Apr 23, 2022 21:12
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 but :justprint:
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Apr 27, 2022 03:46
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I have an issue with my 3d printer. It is an Ender 3. It has a bigtreetech skr mini e3 and bl touch. I was in the process of replacing the hotend after the last one become encased in plastic. Was doing test prints to narrow in on the Z-offset. Now it is displaying the error "TMC Connection Error" and the X motor doesn't work. I've been taking this slow: it did work fine yesterday and several days before that, but today it produces that error. What do I need to fix this? No wire seems lose. I still have my stock Ender 3 board that I can go back to. Or is this full on "new printer" territory? Also why did this happen now? This didn't happen right after I messed with the wires or changed parts. e: Ender 5s lookin pretty affordable these days. edit 2: Hm, I probably just have to replace the board. Is a "bigtreetech skr mini e3" still the one to grab for an ender 3 or have times changed? Serenade fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 17:00
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As far as PLA+ / PLA Pro goes, I've had a really rough time with Overture PLA pro. Compared to regular PLA from the same brand and same color, I got a ton of warping. Enough that bed adhesion is an issue in longer prints. I'm sure this can be corrected for, but I've yet to run into a situation where it'd be worth the effort.
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May 18, 2022 14:44
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Setting up Klipper on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v3.0, I want to make a big effort post about Klipper and how I shouldn't have waited so long, but I am stuck. This test mesh worked yesterday, now it is off center to the point where I cannot print it. "Too large for the print bed" it claims. What variables do I need to play with to center where a mesh is loaded  Left is the preview in Prusa Slicer, right is the current gcode viewer in OctoPrint. It is harder to demonstrate with smaller objects, but those too are off center in OctoPrint but not Prusa. The extra confusing part is that if I load the exact file from yesterday, it too is off center.
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May 26, 2022 14:18
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mewse posted:Did Octoprint reset to thinking you have a 200x200 bed instead of 235x235 I don't think so because I can manually move it to x:228,y:228 with the nozzle over the bed. In checking, I did find that my x and y end stops' offsets were slightly off and adjusted those, but it's still loading gcode off center. Serenade fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 26, 2022 |
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May 26, 2022 16:12
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Do borosilicate glass beds wear out? Mine is a black Crealtiy from 2020 and I've been unable to make things consistently stick to it for a while. Granted, I am in the process of replacing my hot end, board, fan shroud, and migrating to klipper. So there are many many variables to dial in. But even with different tests from 35-85C bed, 190-220C nozzle, and a 1mm range of z offsets, I'm getting corner lifting bad enough that it catches. I do use a bl touch but its also possible the bed is too warped anyway.
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Jul 13, 2022 14:42
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Aurium posted:The secret to a glass bed is cleanliness. Hopefully this is the gooniest thing I ever post, I forgot about soap. I tired just water, everclear, and glass cleaner before, but not dish soap. Immediate huge difference. I went to the test cases of constant failure: successful prints even better than the working temperatures before. I might still break out the hairspray when I print the fan shroud to replace my current placeholder. But that's because it's the last stretch before I consider my printer back to "fully operational." Either way, I'm up and running again in a way I haven't been in months.
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Jul 14, 2022 01:17
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I recently swapped from Marlin to Octoprint on an RPi + Klipper on an Ender 3. It's been great, but not without a learning process. I want to make a big effort post of my process so people can learn from my idiocy when I get my printer up to what I consider 100% done. Speaking of, I have a few questions to get me though the home stretch. Right now, my Z-Offset is a little wrong. I can adjust it mid print on the machine by Tuning it to a specific number, but where do I put that number in the Klipper config? For example, it was 0.83 on my previous fan shroud, what do I do with that 0.83 value so I don't have to punch it in every time? Speaking of fan shrouds, I think I don't like the one I have? Before I encased my last hot end in plastic, I used a Satsana for two 5015 fans and a BL touch mount. That's what I'm trying to use now but the probe barely fits? I can sort of tilt the shroud and angle it so it's not lower than the nozzle, but it seems just barely not close enough to collide. "What fan shroud should I print" is a topic that's been done 100 times before, but my go to answer is not working and I'm confused. And finally, are cable chains a terrible idea? The mesh I use to bundle the wires to the hot end is fraying and I, you know have a 3d printer. But I can never tell if they're functional in bundling the cables or will wear them down even faster from friction. All clouded by the fact that they often look good.
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Jul 17, 2022 21:48
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I'm starting to dip my toe in the world of 3d printing "cosplay" stuff. Very quickly learned this is not a job for CAD software. (At least at my skill level)
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Jul 18, 2022 17:23
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For what it's worth, my previous board uses 2209s and the X axis driver is the only part that failed. It is also the one furthest from the fan.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:22
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Also people love arguing about brands. Practically human condition
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Aug 4, 2022 18:29
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My Ender 3 is far from perfect but I am quite happy with the functionality provided by my BL Touch. I find the bed visualizer very convenient to use and almost satisfying to make mesh go flat. One could argue about time spent figuring out how to use it vs time spent on manual leveling or ideology or something, but not every tool has to work the same way.
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Aug 5, 2022 18:15
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Whom among us in our journeys did not hear about "bed leveling" and then get out the bubble level. It's a complicated hobby and once you're in, it's easy to take for granted just how complicated it is.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:59
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 08:14 |
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I appreciate the mpcnc posting. I've long considered making the lowrider in particular for relatively simple CNC work, but I've already got way too many projects to wrap up first. I can bide my time and take notes to figure what's the best option when I finally get around to it... In some number of years.
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Aug 11, 2022 20:16
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