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And just to be sure, you are heating the nozzle up before trying to take it out, right? Because I don't see how you could have sheared the brass apart unless you tried to unscrew it cold, and you will have an absolute gently caress of a time getting what's left of it out if you try to do it again.
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Jul 20, 2021 03:49
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That's wacky. I'd double-check your torque wrench, definitely. And make sure you're not, say, accidentally using foot-pounds when you should be using inch-pounds. It's possible that you just had a freak bad nozzle but I've never seen that happen before. Personally I don't use a torque wrench; I just go until it stops turning, then do another 1/8 turn after that and it's good.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:09
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The early nozzles were machined directly into the heater block, so the size was a matter of whatever drill you wanted to use. Individually replaceable nozzles like we have now weren't a thing for the first several years. (I'm arbitrarily choosing the RepRap project as the beginning of the current era of 3D printing). Here is a J-head, one of the more popular early hotends. The whole brass part is one piece. The "heating cartridge" is a big fat resistor. lol  I assume they chose 0.4mm because that's about the size of nozzle that Stratasys was using in their Dimension printers, so it had been demonstrated to work well. It's also possible that in the early days someone ran a bunch of tests with different sizes and settled on that for the early RepRaps, but early print quality was so lovely that it would have been hard to really make a good judgment. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jul 21, 2021 |
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Jul 21, 2021 00:55
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some of the wires contain valuable copper!
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Jul 22, 2021 03:26
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You can get by with the regular bed just fine. Get some long tweezers or narrow tongs, a sealable wide-mouthed container for the alcohol, some kind of plastic tray to set everything in, and a big pack of disposable gloves.
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Jul 22, 2021 05:15
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Yeah, applying strong bending/shearing force across layer lines like that is the most effective way to break a 3D printed part. A handle for a screwdriver or something would be fine like that, but not a handle that experiences baseball bat style forces. I would also suggest printing it in two semicircular halves flat on the bed, with some countersunk holes for nuts and bolts to hold them together. Use like 40% infill and 5 perimeters with 0.3mm layer height. Yeah you'll have some stairstepping on the shape, but call it grip texture. ImplicitAssembler posted:Bolts, you'll still get movement when swinging the bat and it'll feel like a wet noodle. I think he means bolting the two handle halves together, which would be fine as long as they're tight. I agree that they should be glued into the bat though.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:48
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Can you accept it not being perfectly flush with the bottom of the bat? If you can make that step a blended curve from the small diameter to the larger one, you'll have less stress concentration at that point. You'll have a little notch where the parts come together but maybe that doesn't matter. Use the material you have and swing the bat and see if it's strong enough. If not, try something else. That's the biggest advantage of 3D printing -- the quick iteration through different designs. Next step up would be ABS, then probably a filled nylon. Have you considered putting like an aluminum tube or wooden dowel through the center of the handle, relying on that for strength, and just using the plastic for ergonomics and fitment?
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Jul 27, 2021 23:11
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Jul 28, 2021 00:47
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i know a sex robot penis when i see one buddy
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Jul 28, 2021 01:20
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Deviant posted:what do yall print to use up the last bits of rolls? potato chip bag clips https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609543
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Jul 31, 2021 21:12
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Putty posted:My Y-axis is complete, but it makes this awful noise when moved: The machine doesn't make that sound when it's fully assembled. You're just hearing it ringing because right now it has no mass on the axis to dampen the vibrations. It will be much quieter. As long as it moves smoothly without any grinding sensations or noises, you're fine.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:15
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Deviant posted:I am at my wit's loving end with this printer. Put some purple glue stick on the bed. Don't read until you have tried it with glue: it looks like your nozzle is too close to the bed, and that causes peeling when printing with PETG which I think this is, right? PETG is a very sticky filament so if the nozzle is dragging through it it tends to pull it up. raise your first layer offset about 0.15 to 0.2 above what you would use for PLA. But just use the glue and get a working print rather than tearing out your hair once again. I glue the bed anytime I'm slightly worried about adhesion, idgaf Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 16:58
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Deviant posted:i am unclear on why i should have to do that on a prusa PEI bed. My understanding is that the PEI is supposed to make that unnecessary. In addition to the fact that it's going to make a huge mess. It doesn't make a huge mess. Glue stick rapidly dries into a hard film and the only mess is that the bottom of the part is a bit sticky when you take it off. You rinse it in the sink and it's done. I think it's 100% worth the slight hassle in order to have prints that never come loose even if they're poorly designed and have no surface area. That is really weird if it's PLA and you've done everything you said. There should be plenty of surface energy at that point. You can try lightly sanding the bed with 800 grit sandpaper, scuffing it until it's all foggy. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 17:06
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Deviant posted:same goddamn results with glue, and now i got that to clean off the loving bed. It's water soluble and takes 30 seconds in the sink. If you can't get PLA to stick to the glue stick that came with the printer, you've got something hosed up. In the first picture, your support lines are heavily over-squished. I don't know if that's because you're over-extruding or because the nozzle is too close, but those are supposed to have an obvious gap between them. Look at the width of the trace running left to right and compare it to the width of the support traces. Something there is wrong. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 17:13
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Incidentally, I notice you aren't having any adhesion problems with these layer test files and the same black filament.
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Aug 3, 2021 18:39
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Heyy nice. It's what I said in my first post. Having the nozzle too close can physically peel the traces off the bed. though I did tell you not to read that part so my bad Those support traces look just about perfect, so keep that picture around and refer to it in the future.
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Aug 3, 2021 20:13
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SEKCobra posted:The gauge has too low a resolution I guess, my curves are like <5 cm in length. What is the exact thing you're trying to model? Your options for digitizing complex forms are: A) make a series of measurements with calipers, protractor, and radius gauges, plotting coordinates on graph paper or something, then copy those points into the computer and draw a curve through them (or connect them with a french curve and take a picture, etc) B) take orthographic photos of the thing with a ruler in the picture, scale and square up and adjust on the computer, and trace the shape directly in your software (or if the part is small, put it directly on a flatbed scanner) C) copy the curve with a contour gauge, then either measure or photograph it as above D) use a high-resolution 3D scanner to digitize the surface directly.
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Aug 5, 2021 19:07
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My main one is a set of Mitutoyos but they're certainly on the ritzy side -- $130 or so. They are lovely though and the difference in quality compared to a cheaper set is immediately noticeable. When I was in college and only had 30 dollars to spend, I got a set of dial calipers. You can get a good set for that price and I prefer them to cheap digital ones.
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Aug 7, 2021 17:25
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The returns diminish so quickly that I can't imagine there would ever be a reason to have a system that uses those factors anyway. It's like how people keep calculating pi to trillions of digits, but you only need 40 to determine the circumference of the universe to the width of a hydrogen atom.
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Aug 13, 2021 18:43
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Paradoxically, 3D printers are both highly tolerant of and extremely sensitive to nozzle quality. Tolerant, in that your nozzle can be extremely hosed up and the printer will still probably print something. I've accidentally run parts sliced for 0.4 on machines with a 1.0mm nozzle and they still laid down plastic and everything stuck together and the print finished. It just looked like poo poo afterwards. Sensitive, in that even the slightest imperfections in nozzle flow will affect how the plastic is deposited and can lead to all kinds of subtle aesthetic issues: wavy layers, blobs, things that look like under- or over-extrusion. Try running a file sliced for 0.4mm with a 0.6mm nozzle installed. That will simulate having a nozzle that is worn out, drilled slightly oversize, etc. The part will probably still finish fine but it'll look crappy -- similar to slight underextrusion. People seeing this might start chasing underextrusion without even considering that maybe it's just the 17 cent Amazon nozzle being over-bored to 0.5mm, something you'd never detect without precision measurement. Cha bu duo The nozzle is the part of your printer that shapes the plastic as it goes down. Tiny imperfections like burrs on the edge of the bore or a slightly imperfect drilling job will show up in your prints. You wouldn't build a highly precise surgical robot and then install a dull scalpel blade, right? Get quality nozzles and treat them well. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 18:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m a resin guy so i’m shooting from the hip here, but (aside from material choice) the difference between a budget nozzle and a premium nozzle is largely going to be finish quality and consistency, right? So why not treat this like any other roughly-finished tool and just do the final finishing and QA yourself? You could certainly do all of that stuff, yep...or you could just buy a good nozzle off the bat. Yes, it's $8 for 1 nozzle vs $8 for 10 nozzles, but it's still 8 dollars in the end. As the above poster said, they don't wear out all that fast unless you're printing abrasive material. And if you are, an E3D NozzleX is like $20 and will last essentially forever. That's one of the few upgrades I have made to all my machines. All of the machines commonly recommended come with perfectly fine nozzles out of the box, too. Prusas use genuine E3D parts etc. That said -- I have also noticed that the cheap nozzles are getting better. People like to repeat dogma they've heard as if it's invariant and unquestionable, but the whole field of 3D printing is continuously changing. I remember seeing some truly heinous E3D knockoffs in like 2015, but more recent ones are much better made. I still stick with genuine nozzles because, again, it's a few dollars and I want to know the thing is properly made (see below picture of E3D testing their nozzles with an optical comparator). But it's likely that most of the cheap Amazon knockoffs are just fine, especially if you're not looking at your layer lines with a magnifying lens. "Good enough" is often...good enough. 
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Aug 17, 2021 21:39
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Actually, I have had zero problems with my Nozzles X, so I think everything you're saying is a bunch of nonsense and a waste of money.
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Aug 17, 2021 22:25
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Ambrose Burnside posted:on that note, 2/4k isnt actually an informative statistic, absent more information, right? it’s more a marketing thing? like i see “4k” get applied to both genuinely higher-resolution printers, as well as those with standard resolutions but a larger print area, and the raw pixel count is the same in both cases. Yes. The objective measurement you're looking for is pixel pitch, and the manufacturers usually do specify that somewhere. But saying "31-micron pixel pitch," which would let you directly compare one machine to another, is apparently not as marketing-friendly as "4k!!"
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Aug 23, 2021 00:31
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That's cool as hell and I would love to see the finished diorama when you get there! Also any other cool dioramas you have made. The boot looks really good and I think speaks to the quality that can be achieved even with an FDM machine with (I'm assuming) a reasonable amount of finishing and a nice paint job.
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Aug 25, 2021 08:03
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Put the whole thing in the sun for a day or two so that the resin hardens, then filter it through a coffee filter. Dry the filtrate and throw it out in the regular garbage. You can reuse the alcohol.
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Aug 30, 2021 03:59
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RabbitWizard posted:I'd love to see more cool things you made itt. I feel like it is mostly "this is my first print" and benchys. I made this to play flight simulator   All of the parts work like in a real plane -- so the trim wheel spins around multiple times, the flap lever has detents, the landing gear lever locks up and down and has to be pulled out to unlatch, the friction adjusters on the sliders work, and the key switch has all five detents including the spring-return start position. I am particularly proud of the key switch because it's entirely 3D printed, even the spring, except for one BB used to get a nice clicky detent.
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Aug 31, 2021 03:51
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Most of the prices I saw back when 3dhubs was still a thing worth looking at were "material cost x 20, then double it". what's wrong with just saying material cost x 40
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Aug 31, 2021 04:34
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Yeah fwiw the last 3D printed model I sold, which was a custom job involving some sanding and finishing work, cost about $11 in plastic and I sold it for $750 Obviously the bulk of the invoice there is the labor, but yeah I don't think basing 3D print prices purely on material costs makes much sense at all. Charge what people are willing to pay and stack that paper
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Aug 31, 2021 19:58
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Chainclaw posted:Temperature regulation definitely seems to be one of the problems I've been having with the Monoprice, but at $180 for the printer I didn't expect a lot from it. That's probably one of the reasons I haven't just pulled the trigger on the Prusa, it's $1,000 and doesn't have an enclosure for temperature regulation. Unless you're printing ABS or a fancy engineering plastic, you don't need an enclosure. PLA, PET and friends are all happy at room temperature. Even ABS can be done in the open if the part's geometry isn't too demanding. What sort of temperature regulation problems are you having with your Monoprice? Every printer should be able to hold consistent, even nozzle and bed temperatures these days. If that isn't working, something is wrong with the machine. Chainclaw posted:Originally had a Solidoodle https://i.imgur.com/QUoP6yj.mp4 Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 19:14
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Baconroll posted:I've just ordered a prusa mini as my first 3d printer and was after some advise on what non-printer tools & accessories people find helpful for managing their prints and keeping things running - e.g. hobby knife, scraper, bed cleaning fluids (?) etc Nozzles last a long time if you aren't doing composite filaments. Generally they tend to get all gunked up and burnt looking before print performance is impacted. In the box next to my Prusa I have a few small pairs of tweezers (mostly for picking at the nozzle and removing blobs and strings), a razor blade scraper (for carefully lifting well-stuck parts), an x-acto knife, a small pair of needle-nose pliers (removing support material), a set of flush cutters (trimming filament, removing support), some purple gluesticks, a small bottle of 99% isopropanol, and some appropriately sized hex wrenches.
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Sep 3, 2021 21:18
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A well-built, properly calibrated Ender should have the same print quality as a well-built, properly calibrated Prusa. They're using the same motion platform configuration, same size of nozzle, broadly similar firmware settings, etc. With the Prusa you are paying to get all the quality-of-life upgrades and tweaks up front, making it simpler to get to that well-built, properly calibrated point.
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Sep 4, 2021 00:24
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I would say the Apple vs. Dell analogy posted above is wrong; it's more like buying a new Honda Civic versus a 20-year-old one. A Civic is a Civic and they both perform pretty much exactly the same, assuming both are working right. You know the used car is going to need a few things done to it right off the bat. It runs well most of the time, but it tends to require occasional fiddling and sometimes acts up. You need to spec and order parts and install them yourself. You knew all of this going in, and it's fine because you like messing around with cars. The new Civic just runs. You get in and go and never really have to think about whether it's working correctly. It hardly needs any maintenance or replacement parts, and in the rare chance that something breaks, you just get in touch with the dealer and they solve the problem. Your goal is to drive the car, not fix the car, and any time spent fixing is an annoying hassle. You are willing to pay more up front to just have something that works every time. There isn't a judgment here on which one is correct. I have an old car and old motorcycles, and they're always acting up, but that's okay because I don't rely on them for my daily commute and I like screwing around with them and fixing them myself. To some people a 3D printer is the same thing -- a mechanism to play around with and continuously upgrade and modify. That's fine. To me, a 3D printer is a tool, not an end in itself. I want the parts that the machine makes so that I can use them for my other projects. I don't want to go to print something and have to spend half a day loving with the machine any more than I want to open my toolbox and find that my torque wrench has fallen apart. Enders are getting better, and my attitudes on them have changed over the years. The first ones were quite dire compared to a properly built machine; now they're not bad at all if you keep in mind the caveats everyone has mentioned. I still like my Prusa because I like having reliable, high-quality tools that I can depend on every time. That's it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Sep 4, 2021 |
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Sep 4, 2021 18:24
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xilni posted:Printed it again and watched it this time. Glue gluee glue gluuuuuee gluuuueeee
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Sep 4, 2021 18:54
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Samuel L. ACKSYN posted:also having to break a piece on the board to flash a different firmware is some bullshit. Why? They aren't stopping you from doing it, it's just a signal to them that you were loving around if you burn out the board running untested firmware and then try to get it replaced under warranty.
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Sep 5, 2021 17:22
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lol grow up. I'm the biggest right-to-repair stan there is and I fully accept that if you decide to start modifying the fundamental functionality of a product you bought, the manufacturer doesn't need to be on the hook to replace parts that fail as a result. They aren't stopping you from doing it at all, just saying "you're on your own with this." Auto manufacturers don't have to replace your engine under warranty if you stick a turbo on it and blow it up, you know. (also for the record, at this point it's only the Prusa Mini that has the breakaway feature for unsigned firmware, so you can still upload some dumb poo poo without thermal runaway protection and melt down your hotend on a MK3 and claim a warranty repair if you want) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 03:44
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w00tmonger posted:What's involved to print in wood/glow in the dark? Just a hardened nozzle, yes, and if you plan on doing a lot of filled filaments you might consider getting a 0.6mm instead of 0.4. The difference in print quality isn't huge and you will reduce the chance of clogging, especially with woodfill. Woodfill filament can be printed lighter or darker by varying the print temperature within a range. Glow in the dark seems to be kind of hit and miss; I've had some that is extremely bright and glows forever and and some that sucked. I haven't used it in years though so I guess just shop around and read reviews. I like the E3D NozzleX. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 04:02
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What cable is that? The bed heater? If there is heat of that magnitude appearing in the middle of the cable, it's probably broken internally and creating massive resistance. You need to fix it before the insulation melts off and starts a fire.
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Sep 8, 2021 08:17
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As a very general rule I leave 0.25mm between parts for a tight (but not binding) fit, and 0.5mm for a sliding fit. The exact values will depend heavily on your printer, the filament you use, and the geometry and print orientation of the mating pieces.
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Sep 12, 2021 08:38
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:holy poo poo! is this a new feature? I don't remember them doing this, but it's been a few years since I've browsed the website. This is a total game changer It's been there at least since like 2014 or so, based on my foggy recollection of when might have been the first time I used that feature. However, they changed it in the last year or so and now you have to log in to download the CAD files. It's free but that still pisses me right the gently caress off
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Sep 13, 2021 20:28
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 15:14 |
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The historical argument against black filament was that it was going to have all the recycled mistake rolls and floor sweepings mixed in because the pigment covers everything up. That might have been the case when 3D printing was still a tiny niche field. These days they're pumping out so much filament that the process is going to be highly optimized and produce little waste, and I can't imagine anyone but the absolute cheapest manufacturers still bothering to recycle garbage like that. White filament is inherently problematic because you need a lot of unmeltable titanium dioxide (etc) as an opacifier. It never seems to flow as nicely as natural material does. e: and incidentally, for all the problems ABS has with contraction, if you watch the extrusion it's clear that it was designed as a molding plastic. Nothing flows as beautifully and easily as natural ABS. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 19:21
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