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Howdy folks. I ended up with a Ender 3 S1 for Christmas and am in the process of getting started with it. I've got some upgrades identified and am getting the software stack together for it, but was curious if there was any guidance on stuff like screw/bolt packs. Is my assumption that most things are m3 based more or less on the money?
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Dec 26, 2023 18:20
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 06:48 |
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How often are you all having to tweak or re-level your beds? Mine appears to have gotten out of whack within the last day without my messing with it. I'd presume some continued tweaking would be needed from time to time but that seems a hair fast.
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Dec 29, 2023 07:10
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Rexxed posted:Not very often on my Ender 3; it seems to depend a lot on things like if I was having a hard time getting a print off causing me to push on the bed more or more violent back forth shaking on some prints. In general it stays put but now and then if I notice first layers are too far apart or parts squish on too much I have to adjust it. Once it's set it usually only goes off by a little bit so a small adjustment on one or two corners is all that's needed most of the time. If I did a whole machine overhaul like when I replaced the mainboard and mounted new boxes for the electronics under it, then I did a full relevel, tightening way down and then raising it up close, then going with some receipt paper to get the distance and further tweaks as needed. The stuff I printed for christmas was the first time I'd used the printer in about 8 months so I just wiped the bed down and did a test print to see if it seemed okay and it'd stayed level the whole time somehow. Odd. I did a couple of ABLs while the bed had been hot last night with no luck. Did it again this morning and everything is fine. I wonder if it was an air temp thing or humidity or whatever. idk. The bed viewer plugin does show that there is a pretty clear (albiet mild) slope to the entire plate so I may tweak that a bit and try and get it a bit more on the money.
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Dec 29, 2023 21:02
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Does anyone have a notion as to why my print skirts seems uniformly awful but the actual prints are fine? They’re stringy messes that fail to attach half the time. If the model was also failing or acting similarly I’d understand that but the first layer of the actual thing is fine. Is there a Cura setting I’m missing? (Almost certainly yes)
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Dec 30, 2023 22:42
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BlackIronHeart posted:Got any pics? I’ll see if I can grab anything from the timelapse, but I doubt it’ll be usable.
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Dec 31, 2023 07:26
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queeb posted:well here's my totals for my full first year on etsy: Nice work. I wish I didn’t see this as the wife has been pushing me to try and do some business stuff with mine and I honestly don’t want to. That said that’s a good chunk of change so I could be convinced. How are your margins?
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Dec 31, 2023 19:26
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BlackIronHeart posted:Got any pics? Ok, you can sort of see what I'm referring to in this timelapse: https://i.imgur.com/b9Bqv9P.mp4 A bit of stringing from the long test line it always does (notably it doesn't actually extrude anything until about half way down the first pass; though that may be by design) and then you can see how the brim warps all to hell. Though as I type this I did just glance over to see that a small set of inserts I was printing just all detached (though one stuck and the brim went flying) so maybe I just need to re-re-relevel the drat thing and get some paper out. Edit: And now absolutely nothing is attaching on the new filament I just put in. Huh. I wonder if I put the z offset too close to the bed. Warbird fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jan 1, 2024 |
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Jan 1, 2024 02:55
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Upon a hair of re-leveling and cleaning the bed (again) things are bringing and sticking like normal. It seems like I just can’t print at night for some reason. I wonder if the hvac is messing with it somehow. Also Octoprint is beyond awesome and it’s a blast to be able to just toss stuff on there from my slicer.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:35
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I think I'm ready to take the plunge into the deep end and start modeling out my own stuff. What's the general temp around here on the assorted CAD-like options available for the Mac? I've pretty familiar with Blender so I'm not starting fresh, but I'm also familiar enough with Blender to know that I'd likely be better served with a more purpose build solution than doing things there even though the same result can be accomplished. I suppose the same could be said about Blender and doing my taxes at this point though. Onshape seems promising, though I don't really like the fact that it's a web app.
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Jan 4, 2024 03:40
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I'll mark that down to take a look through later, thanks!Javid posted:It's important to push through the initial "wah complex interface" shock and learn not to crash the thing with impossible geometry, and you'll start to understand why it has all those extra buttons and menus you don't know what to do with yet My dude I played Dorf Fort ASCII style and enjoyed the interface. I used blender before they reworked things to be slightly less for insane people. I'm not quite deranged enough to play Auora but I appreciate what they're going for. Bad Interfaces don't scare me. Warbird fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 04:30
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I'm going slightly insane here and I'm hoping someone else has run into this. Does increasing wall line counts in Cura mess with the actual dimensions of a print? I had a hole/slot measured out just so and now nothing works despite now enlarging the diameter well past what should work. The only thing I can think of is that I upped the wall line count by one to 4 and bumped up the fill percent to strengthen things as this is a "production" part. Can anyone advise?
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Jan 9, 2024 06:09
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I think you may be onto something for the second one. After taking calipers to a freshly printed socket, I’m getting a radius of 5.5mm when spec is for 6mm. Taking it back down to the standard 3 walls has things fitting even with that discrepancy so I’m calling it a win. I’ll have to sit down and sort this out as I’m sure it’ll come back to bite me in the rear end.
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Jan 9, 2024 08:35
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Javid posted:I'm curious, what dimension-critical thing are you making in FDM? It's a clip to replace a broken one on one of those "slide out of a cabinet" garbage can deals. By that nature it has two pretty critical parts in terms of tolerances: The hook portion that holds onto a vertical bar for stability as part of a crossbar, and the bore hole that the actual crossbar sits in. Weirdly enough the hook portion has been pretty rock solid once I sorted out how to CAD a bit better. The bore hole has been the problem child, but I was able to fix it by kicking down the wall layers to the default 3. Per my calipers a spec of a hole with a diameter of 6mm kicks out at 5.56mm diameter at the default 3. So a half mm wasn't helping; I'll have to reprint at 4 walls to see how much variance I'm looking at there. To your point it may just be a matter of getting more familiar with my printer's resolution and so on and accounting for it in the print designs. This will likely be as precise a print as I need to make for a while since it's a brown field retrofit affair. While I hate that Onshape is browser based it does make sharing pretty easy. Anyone so inclined can go take a gander here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/b8c6e404244bb6a8b22120be/w/a0a903f87eef89127b17ffec/e/af46d5aee1bff988b0dc0a85 No, I do not fully understand why I can round some edges and not others. It's on the list to sort out.
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Jan 9, 2024 17:31
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deimos posted:I can think of a few options, between them: Oh this would have been nice to have seen this a few days ago, oh well. Thanks for sharing, I need to go find some content creators focusing on practical printing stuff and this seems like a good place to start.
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Jan 9, 2024 18:17
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Does anyone have a resource on modeling a multiple part print? I have a stand I want to make for something but it's going to be a fair shot wider than my printer's viable volume so I'm going to have to make some puzzle piece slots or whatever. No idea what the best way to skin that cat might be.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:09
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What I'm hearing here is "don't use Cura". Couldn't hurt to see what's going on over in Orca land.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:47
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Speaking of, we're getting a Microcenter before too much longer in our area. Is there anything there I should consider looking at for my Ender 3 S1? I was planning on getting a spool or two, but I'd be interested to hear if they have anything special I should look out for or potentially avoid.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:51
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The Chairman posted:They've got a pretty good assortment of first-party Creality accessories, so if you're thinking about upgrading/replacing your extruder or getting a Klipper Pad or picking up some PEI plates it's a good source for that. Is there a writeup somewhere that details what among what they sell is worth getting? My S1 came with a PET plate so I'm good there. The laser module is a bad idea for a variety of reasons though I'd be lying if I said I didn't want it. Maybe a new nozzle; deffo a pad at some point.
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Jan 16, 2024 23:21
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I’ve had reasonable success so far just tossing my spools in a plastic container with some descant bags and going about my life.
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Jan 26, 2024 06:19
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I’d be willing to bet money you can set Blender to have the same hot keys as Fusion via the settings or a plugin/addon. You could do your drat taxes in that program if you were deranged enough. That said I’d probably say stick to fusion for anything “in the real world”. Blender absolutely can do it but when I last tried it was a bit hinky for stuff dealing with absolute sizes and scales and so on. You’re not going to like the answer but I bet the best way to skin the cat is “both”. Do the creative modeling in Blender and then import the model into your CAD program of choice to make sure the dimensions and so on are what you want. Keep the functional stuff in CAD. That said, most slicers can scale and measure just fine.
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Jan 28, 2024 19:39
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Also, Onshape is pretty easy to get a handle on. You can model out something from 0 in like 15 minutes, is free, and runs in your browser so it is performant and works on whatever. The downside is the face it’s browser only
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Jan 28, 2024 19:41
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Blender is WAY better than it used to be. There’s still a learning curve if you’re not familiar with the “language” of 3D modeling, but it’s anything but insurmountable. It’d take an afternoon or two but Blender Guru has a very good series on making a doughnut that has been through several revisions now and is kept up to date. You only really need to care about the modeling portion so you can skip the back half or so about texturing and so on. Sadly I must mention that he turned out to be a NFT crank (albeit more from the perspective of ‘“”””better”””” way to digitally own and sell art asset you make’ than ‘buy monkee, get rich’, but still). They’re still stellar turorials.
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Jan 28, 2024 20:40
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Some Pinko Commie posted:I once heard someone say working with STL and OBJ files is like working with Applesauce. On that note, how are people taking and remixing stuff on Thingiverse and so on? I have a mount I'm looking to tweak a hair to my specific use case but as best I can tell I have to download the one from the site in question, print it out, do a lot of measurements, recreate in in my CAD program, and then make the changes. That seems not right.
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Jan 29, 2024 18:31
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withak posted:Easiest is to get the original author to post a step file that you can start from. Otherwise you can modify their stl with more work, or make your own model by pulling lines, curves, etc from their stl. Modeling it yourself from scratch is the nuclear option. Yeah now that I think about it, just pulling the STL in and using it as a reference seems far saner. Not a fan of how most of the big communities are more STL focused. It would be nice if they'd take more of a Githhub type approach and have those available as "releases" with the source data available for the real perverts out there.
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Jan 29, 2024 18:39
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Wait, you all are actually selling those knickknacks to people?
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Feb 2, 2024 14:33
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I don’t even know what to think of that. Good for you to be absolutely clear, but I’m not sure I can wrap my head around that.
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Feb 2, 2024 15:53
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Here's something I don't quite understand: My baselayers are always "weird". They stick as a general rule but you can always tell which side was facing down. I don't quite understand why the top layer of a print looks that much better. Also, something like a third of the time my brims/skirts/whatever seem to fail or just not work very well. Even when this happens, the part proper is usually fine. Is there something I should look to tweak or should I just forego the Build Plate Adhesion stuff entirely? The PFA or whatever plate that came with my Ender 3 S1 seems to be doing well enough on its own.
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Feb 4, 2024 22:59
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Hang tight and I’ll get some when I get to the house.
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Feb 5, 2024 00:53
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 Well I guess I got lucky and got a “good” example while I was out. The bottom few here that didn’t fail catastrophically display a bit of what I’m talking about. I know that the shape here isn’t helping any but what I’m talking about can be seen along the second from the left clip, along the top left. The brim is there, but not really adhering to itself or the plate. Most of what is shown here is due to the rest of the print failing, but hopefully you get my meaning. As for the “bottom” of prints looking worse in general:  Note the “lining” across the rectangle at the bottom of this picture. Vs the top of the piece:  The lines are still present but less pronounced. There is a pretty significant difference in “smoothness” to the touch via finger or nail. It’s not a major issue though I do wonder why it’s the top that’s smoother and not the base. Edit: And now the print is working fine despite my only change being re-slicing without the brims. What's extra fun is that I did this exact same config to begin with and it didn't stick. I did have the window open so I do wonder if ambient air temp is screwing me here somehow. Warbird fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 01:36
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Noted, thanks to both of you. It's currently at -3.21 and I've been lowering it in increments of .01 or so. I'll find something to print tomorrow and increase that increment to .25 instead.
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Feb 5, 2024 03:31
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NewFatMike posted:I used to do it in tiny increments, definitely go with larger ones. I did the whole paper test business before but looking back I realize that paper sure does have different “gauges”/stocks and the entire affair is fairly subjective. Is there anything I should be looking out for regarding getting too low? I know that elephant foot-ing is a thing and presumably nozzle striking if I really overshoot.
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Feb 6, 2024 04:52
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Is my rough read that Bamboo stuff tends to be the rough "Apple" equivalent in the 3DP space more or less on point?
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Feb 6, 2024 17:04
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Speaking of firmwares and so on, I've been meaning to get around to finding a version of or potentially compiling Marlin to toss on my Ender 3 S1 to get rid of the host action commands nag in Octoprint. Is that a pretty straightforward process? I'm going to go poke around their documentation later but would be interested in hearing if there are any common gotchas. Plus it looks like I can just use the Pi to flash the firmware so that's fun. Also, what's the go to platform for sharing more functional natured prints? I don't have an issue with Thingivese but it looks like it's mostly tchotchkes and other doodads of little note. RUM hack posted:no, not really. if you want a machine that is engineered and streamlined to within an inch of its life, that you plonk down on your desk, power it on, and never ever have to think about how its doing what its doing. and then can take it into the bambu store in town when it breaks? like, a machine you buy for your aging parents? no, there isn't really a equivilent in the consumer/hobbyist space. (maybe there is at a pro/industrial level? my only experience is with the local hackerspaces form 3+, which is a £2.5k resin printer which is pretty astonishingly good) Oh they have physical stores? That's wild. I'm not used to tech brands having, you know, actual stores. iirc back home they're actually getting a second Apple store in the next few years after wither having either none or 1 for most of my life. poo poo, we're getting a Microcenter here sometime soon-ish and I don't know what I'm going to do with myself when it happens. But yeah, I was angling more towards "generally well put together hardware and software with minimal faffing about (and maybe an occasional fire for giggles)". Good to know.
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Feb 6, 2024 19:11
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mewse posted:@warbird printables was created because thingiverse sucks. bambu had “thangs” i think. none of them ban decorative prints though (vs functional) I think printiables was what I was trying to remember thank you. I'm half tempted to try and make a site catered to functional prints (with provided sources required for remixing) but I have enough on my plate as is. Some Pinko Commie posted:For the Ender S1? Perfect, thanks. I'll have to go sort out what SOC I have but I wouldn't be surprised if they have that process documented as well. Warbird fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:12
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mrbass21 posted:The hardest part IMO is more knowing what you have and setting it up the first time. What board version? What drivers do you have? Do you have filament runout detection? What pins are they on? Does the runout sensor see a high or a low as runout? Etc etc. I don’t think the warning nag message bothers me quite enough to do all that. Hell, I was vaguely intending to do Kilpper once Microcenter opens and I can get the screen doohickey so I may wait until then. I fully expect it to be an order of magnitude more of a pain in the rear end.
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Feb 7, 2024 03:20
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One of these days I need to find/make a “case” for the pi4 I have dangling off the side of the printer that can screw in. I haven’t moved the few I’ve glanced at so far. Shouldn’t be too hard as the aluminum whatsits are a standard size so I can use the tee-nuts or whatever they’re called to hook into them.
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Feb 7, 2024 04:12
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Oh perfect, I was meaning to go ask what the CAD version of source code was over in the other thread. I need to go export that and toss it on my stuff on printables. Thanks!
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Feb 7, 2024 14:35
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Parasolids are best for accuracy, yeah. But for 99% of 3d printing cases the STEP file is fine. The FBX to OBJ relationship if I'm remembering my time with Blender correctly. Noted.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:57
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NewFatMike posted:I used to do it in tiny increments, definitely go with larger ones. Coming back to this, I finally got around to a new print and futzed with the Z levels as mentioned here. That brim is now a solid flat piece of plastic and I couldn’t be more thrilled. I’m having a bit of a stringing issue (I think) so that will be the next bit to tackle. Thanks!
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Feb 21, 2024 15:48
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 06:48 |
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Designed and printed out a custom mount/bracket for a piece of camera gear. Fits like a glove and only took one revision. Feels extremely good man.
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Feb 23, 2024 01:53
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