3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

My dad got a Ender 3v2 a couple months ago and has liked that, minus a couple issues with it (mostly about the bed and adhesion). I just got a 3 Pro this week but also got a BTT mainboard and BLTouch for less than the cost of a v2.

On the downside, doing all the upgrades and mucking with firmware has been A Process and I haven�t even started calibration prints yet, so if you want something more out of the box ready I�d say it�s hard to go wrong with the Ender 3v2. My 70-year-old dad learned his way around it pretty quickly.

# ¿ Apr 29, 2022 00:09

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 09:29

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Serenade posted:

I have an issue with my 3d printer. It is an Ender 3. It has a bigtreetech skr mini e3 and bl touch. I was in the process of replacing the hotend after the last one become encased in plastic. Was doing test prints to narrow in on the Z-offset. Now it is displaying the error "TMC Connection Error" and the X motor doesn't work. I've been taking this slow: it did work fine yesterday and several days before that, but today it produces that error.

What do I need to fix this? No wire seems lose. I still have my stock Ender 3 board that I can go back to. Or is this full on "new printer" territory?

Also why did this happen now? This didn't happen right after I messed with the wires or changed parts.

e: Ender 5s lookin pretty affordable these days.

edit 2: Hm, I probably just have to replace the board. Is a "bigtreetech skr mini e3" still the one to grab for an ender 3 or have times changed?

I just installed the e3 in my ender3 pro, the latest board goes for about $40.

It sounds like the stepper driver itself (it�s on the board, probably under a heatsink near where the X wires connect) is bad? I think they�re soldered down on the e3 so I don�t know if there�s any way you could really repair it.

I suppose the other option is that the X motor itself is bad (or the cables between them).

Either way fixing one or all of these is way cheaper than a new printer, unless you�re looking for an excuse to upgrade anyway.

# ¿ Apr 29, 2022 18:40

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Marshal Prolapse posted:

So I�m pretty goddamn happy with the big tree so far. I was able to build it and get Octoprint set up. I had some initial issues with feeding but that got taken care of pretty quickly, the only huge issue is finding a way to make sure that support structures do not print as they are not needed and also are nearly impossible to get the goddamn figure out of. I am testing out some of the saucerman studios free structure samples, granted I really won�t be able to comment on that until it�s done printing sometime around midnight. Lol

Oh and the BL auto touch is not the CR one, it�s made by a different company, but honestly leveling this wasn�t that bad, so I�m not in a rush to get that, beyond returning the one that doesn�t work with the system.

Still I�m pretty drat happy if it�s so far and assuming the support structure issue is worked out by me, and I don�t doubt it will, but I am very happy with a printer I got for less than the MSRP of the battle zone frontier set which sells for 220.

The biqu b1 seems to be basically an ender 3 v2 with a few different upgrade choices. I think the main thing they skimped on is power supply? I don�t think they upgraded to a meanwell.

The main issue you�re going to have if you want to upgrade bits is that brackets may not line up with your holes or have the correct clearance around the fan shroud, so as long as you�re okay printing your own after measuring the b1 should be fine for you.

BLTouch over CRTouch is fine, I have a CR that I got cheap but if I were to do it again I�d just to a BL. I also lucked out and got one of the new version CRs, the old ones apparently rattle really loudly during a print (a problem the BLs won�t have since they�re plastic).

# ¿ May 28, 2022 14:50

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

I�m trying to track down an issue with my Ender 3 Pro. Every once in a while during prints, I hear a popping sound coming from the hot end (like it�s extruding a bubble or something). I�ve tried two different PLA filaments. Upgrades on this are an aluminum dual extruder gear and Capricorn tubing from the extruder to the hot end. The extruder does not seem to be slipping (at least that I can notice while staring at it).

I�ve seen some people say this can be from not a flush fit between the PTFE tubing and the nozzle end, though I did my best to ensure a tight fit when installing the tubing (do all work hot, leave nozzle a half turn loose while you secure tubing, tighten nozzle).

Anything else I should be looking at?

# ¿ May 31, 2022 22:14

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

8-bit Miniboss posted:

I was talked down to never buy a Creality printer elsewhere on the internet and you'd be an idiot to buy one.

Creality machines are the default for a reason, they�re cheap and will work (after some fiddling) and have extensive aftermarket support. If someone was talking down to you about considering a Creality then the only options they�d accept would be ponying up for a Prusa or building your own Voron/CoreXY.

If you�re okay with fiddling with the machine and doing calibrations, creality machines (or even the clones like Biqu) are fine. If you want something that Just Works out of the box, you�re going to have to pay way more.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2022 02:05

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

I picked up a used Anycubic Kobra Neo and I�m working on fixing its issues. It�s got the standard v-slot roller wheel setups and I feel bumps/flat spots in both the X and Y axes when moving the bed or hot end.

Is there anything I can do to the existing rollers to get them back into shape or is this a �just replace the flat spot ones� situation?

# ¿ Jun 14, 2023 03:10

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Rad-daddio posted:

do a linear rail upgrade and then talk me into also doing it.

I�m trying to keep this one mostly stock before I start doing weird things to it. I got it for $50 and would like to get it at least printing stock before going crazy (I�m already planning to try Klipper on it)

BadMedic posted:

just replace the flat spot ones, they wear out eventually and replacements are pretty cheap, I got mine for ~$2 each
I heard that 'counterfeit' ones wear out really fast tho, so be careful which supplier you buy from?

Yeah I�m somewhat hesitant to just grab whatever off Amazon/Aliexpress, is there a better spot that�s not so prone to counterfeit garbage?

# ¿ Jun 14, 2023 14:20

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Looking for a printer recommendation for my dad. My dad already runs an ender 3 v2, ender 3 Neo, and an anycubic Kobra Neo. He�s looking for something either with a larger bed or something a lot faster. The problem is he�s a notorious cheapskate and has had good luck with the bargain side of bedslingers so saying something like �Bambu X1P� or similar is gonna be a No.

He had his eye on the Kobra 2 Max but I talked him out of it because the mainboard setup on that thing is bananas and he wouldn�t be able to run custom firmware/klipper.

Any recommendations? He�s very much not a newbie or afraid to tinker, but he�s gotta feel like he�s getting a good deal.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 16:29

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Dr Sun Try posted:

Sovol sv06 plus might fit the bill for "big"*? reliable, basically prusa clone but needs some maintenance (had to gresae the bearings on mine)

klipperizing the sovols is also possible afaik.

Sovol is selling refurbished printers on their website:
https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-refurbished-3d-printer?variant=45150897701173
Availability depends on how many perople send theirs back obviously, but if he can wait there is a good deal to be had.

edit:
*not as big as kobra 2 max, but really depends on what he needs,

The sv06+ had come up in my searching as well, I did send that to him as a possible alternative. I was also trying to push him towards with something with an enclosure or building an enclosure, as he wants to do more automotive interior parts and being able to print ASA would be a big step up over PETG+

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 16:55

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Sockser posted:

Neptune 4 Max

e: this is kind of a comedy option, the Max is huge

I�d come across this too, only concern was that their nozzles are proprietary (and would probably push for the plus instead of the max as it is, indeed, huge)

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 17:00

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Acid Reflux posted:

SV06+ nozzles are proprietary out of the box too, regular Volcano nozzles are like 1.5mm too short to work without modifying or replacing the part cooling fan duct.

I had one for about three weeks, and even as a Sovol fan, I was so unimpressed with it that I gave it to the local makerspace. My regular SV06's have been great, the Plus was a disappointment. Maybe someone who still likes to tinker would like it more.

That�s unfortunate, from my reading I thought the sv06+/sv07 had a standard volcano nozzle

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 17:14

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

gently caress TeachingTech. I've gone into why he's a steaming pile earlier in this thread. I literally just looked up a MakersMuse video seconds before opening this thread. (I am looking for 3d modeling software advice...)

The Germans are good.

Ok, Nero approved youtubers, and why: In general, if they're on this list, they are accountable. They show their mistakes. They provide the full story. They give back to the community. And or, are funny as heck.

LostInTech: Does actual testing, and explains what's going on. He's ~the best~ when it comes to things like tpu and what's really going on.

ProperPrinting: He's on the absolute bleeding edge. While the things he does are not directly applicable to what your'e doing, they are generally a thing you'll see in the next year or two. He posts his failures, and this is important. (And why TeachingTech is most bad)

Slant3d: Talks about part design, and deeply practical parts of printing.
TangledTesting: is closely related, same company, but for publishing data.

ZackFiredman: shotgun of information, and funny.

Nero3d: This is NOT me, but when he does technical stuff, it's ~dead on~. His "how to print abs" series is still the gold standard. He's a member of the Voron Team

CHEP: Good basic stuff, always. He shares his profiles. He doesn't often go deep into why. But he is consistant, and corrects himself when he's wrong.

ModBot: Good tutorials.

MandicReality: Good howtos. Entertaining stuff.

Clough42: Rarely 3dp stuff, but when he does, it's about hard subjects and exotic things. He does most of his printing with IDEX and carbon filament.

Rolohaun: Publishing several high speed, home made 3d printer designs. They're worth keeping an eye on.

WildRoseBuilds: Pretty timelapses. Some of the best.

Integza: Does really dumb stuff, with 3d printed things. Usually involving fire and compressed gasses. It's a wonder he still has eyebrows.

3dPrintingNerd: He needs a mention becuase he... is still reviewing gear. Both Nero3d, Mandic, and LostInTech have decided they're done with reviews.

I support this. I can't believe I forgot him in this list.

I feel like TT has some good learning resources but yeah, I always watch his poo poo with a critical eye. I also just found Nero3d as well as I'm contemplating a Voron 2.4 and he's a great resource on all of that.

Only other one that I haven't seen yet is Emily the Engineer but that's mostly memey poo poo. On the other hand, a 3d printed toilet.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 06:08

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

The worst misinformation, is information that is ~almost true~. And is most troublesome when it comes to people who can't identify what a critical eye would be over his stuff. Anything he says is covered better, by other creators.

The trouble with TT is he's close enough to right to really screw people up. A buddy of mine burned a full work week trying to sort out what was going wrong, based on TT's advice. Followed by me burning 20+ hours. I think I've sunk 40 or more hours into helping people in regard to stuff they picked up from him. Or using his work as evidence. He's a time and effort sink, and shouldn't be on anyone's watch list. My.. vehemence is based on personal cost.

IMHO If you're gonna waste your time, don't burn calories trying to sort out truth. Spend it on people doing things that know what they're doing is silly, funny, or.. weird. Like Emily the Engineer. :-)

Agree on all of this. He's never one I'd recommend to someone new to 3D printing as they're probably going to end up chasing ghosts, but his CAD stuff is... not the worst? Maybe I just can't find good CAD youtubers.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 06:21

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

BlackIronHeart posted:

Clough42 does good CAD stuff, he's all Fusion360 though

I�ll check them out, that�s what I use as well. I wish I could like freecad (and have watched a bunch of mango�s stuff) but I�m just so much faster in fusion, and features aren�t spread out over several similarly named but mutually exclusive workbenches.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 07:18

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

So... it's got issues. It's also not actually released yet. The Next Layer showed off the one he got sent. And he's got some discount codes.

Sovol DID use the 2.4 as inspriation, and contacted the voron group about it. They're going to donate $2 per sold SV08 to the voron project.

......... I think... with some good klipper config and profiles it'll be a great printer. Just "as is" it's a mess.

If we�re still talking about 3D printing YouTubers we dislike, put The Next Layer at the top of my list. The dude is just an SEO bot.

# ¿ Apr 17, 2024 01:13

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

I'm seriously considering building a 300x300 Voron 2.4, is this a real dumb idea? I'm already familiar with electronics work/embedded development, and I have 3 other printers already (custom enders and anycubic kobras).

# ¿ Apr 21, 2024 16:14

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

gbut posted:

Same. It took me about a week full-time to get everything assembled. That�s was almost a year ago, and I�m still tuning it.

OP, even though you seem to be in the latter camp, the old caveat about the purpose of your hobby stands: do you want to do 3D printing or 3D printering (a portmanteau of �3D printer� and �tinkering�, ain�t I clever)?

e: the thread moves fast

I do enjoy the tinkering aspect about equally to actually printing things. I don�t tend to like printing things that just collect dust so I print a lot of organizational stuff and enclosures/cases for my electronics projects, though I�m starting to get more requests from others to print stuff for money.

# ¿ Apr 21, 2024 21:25

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

Since you're asking, build a trident. You need to have a rather special use case to "need" a 2.4.

The reason here is that 2.4 kits are paradoxically cheaper than tridents.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2024 01:22

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

Since you're asking, build a trident. You need to have a rather special use case to "need" a 2.4.

Gaukler posted:

The reason here is that 2.4 kits are paradoxically cheaper than tridents.

Gonna add on to this, not only are trident kits more expensive, but they�re also out of stock almost everywhere. What is it about the trident BOM that makes it harder to source? The Z screws?

# ¿ Apr 22, 2024 14:39

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Nerobro posted:

Yeah, it's the Z screws. Belts are cheaper than leadscrews. Also... They're also a part you can fudge if you really want to. If I were self sourcing, I'd absolutely be buying couplers, more 2020, and longer leadscrews and do a taller Trident. More room for fun additions to the printer is always good. (Think in chamber spool holder, under bed fans, nevermore, lights... )But kits.. aren't gonna do that for you, usually.

So.... Since it's a $100 difference, do understand the 2.4 is a more complex build, has more kinks to printing, and more complex to tune. Absolutely a hill you can climb, it's just taller than a bed dropping design.

Yeah I�m okay with the complexity, and I don�t think I�d be able to self-source a trident for $800 shipped with a bunch of upgrades (Magic Phoenix Cock and Ball Torture). However if they had their trident kit in stock I probably would strongly consider it.

# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 02:26

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

kid sinister posted:

Offset on for Sovol says to do the sheet of paper for Z offset. Still, I followed the guides. I printed its test patch at 270/70:

How's my "squish"? Ignore that lifted corner on the lower left. I pulled at a wispy string from the starter line and it lifted.

What material are you printing with? 270/70 sounds real drat hot. That�s in the PTFE spicy range, not sure if the sv07�s hot end has teflon shoved all up inside.

Also I was going to say that that looks like your Z is now low but I think from earlier you�re using a somewhat translucent filament, so nevermind.

# ¿ May 1, 2024 01:28

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 09:29

Gaukler: Oct 9, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

Do all your calibration printing with regular PLA at like 210 and 60. The 0.6 nozzle is fine, but the glow in the dark filament is a complicating variable -- it's full of phosphorescent powder that doesn't melt or flow easily. Once you have the printer working reliably with the easy filament, you can move on to the more temperamental ones.

And yes, printing at too high a temperature can be just as problematic as printing too low. PLA should never be up at 270, no matter how much glow in the dark filler is in it. It's possible that because you're printing so hot, the filament isn't solidifying in place quickly enough as it comes out of the nozzle, and that's what you're getting the little loops and turns at the corners.

Remove variables and try again.

Yeah, this. Had a friend with a P1S who was chasing ghosts with warping and adhesion with PLA and they had increased the print temp and enclosed it, things worked better when he brought everything down to the normal PLA range.

Seconding the �slow down and calibrate with something normal first�. It might also help to bring it down to Ender 3 speeds, PLAs with additives tend to not do well at speed (certainly not before dialing in the slicer)

# ¿ May 1, 2024 01:54

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