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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Sagebrush posted:

I just go until it stops turning, then do another 1/8 turn after that

:thunk:

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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Deviant posted:

sketchup?

do not attempt to create 3D printable models with sketchup

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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god help me, I just downloaded freecad (realthunder branch)

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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contour gauge

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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armorer posted:

They make smaller ones where the pins are steel wires, maybe that would work?

I have such a one, it's 6 inches long and I don't see how you could need something more precise than it

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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if you're just reusing the packets that came with the spool, they're probably saturated and not doing anything

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Javid posted:

Do I need to run them through my dehydrator or something? (Spools or packets, really)

Yes, but if you're serious about it, get this so you'll know when to:

https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Desiccan...29065455&sr=8-3

You can print containers for it, preferably out of clear filament so you can see the color better.
Also, in my experience, the silica gel lasts longer in an airtight tote than it did when I was using freezer bags.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Another tip, superglue is water activated, store it with silica gel

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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please learn a real CAD package, it's for your own good

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Ships and tanks are extremely popular now thanks to various f2p games

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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xilni posted:

Hoping someone can help me solve this issue:

While printing the bracket for my Prusa MK3S+ LED bar in PETG, I got the following issue:




A photo of the whole thing and how it was printed:



Full imgur post

Stats:
Prusa i3 MK3S+
Duramic PETG (printed a beautifully perfect benchy earlier)
Default Prusa Slicer settings

Thermal warping. Either the ends detached from the bed or it overcame the magnets and curled the whole thing up (I have seen this happen).

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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I suggest the "mouse ears" technique

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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xilni posted:

Does the brim functionality in Prusa slicer do the same thing? I've been looking into using it for my next attempt and it sounds similar.

Yes, but I suggest mouse ears because
a: You can add them only to the ends where they're actually needed
b: Mouse ears are physically stronger than brims (brims peel off easily while mouse ears must be cut)

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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your cable is physically broken

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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My employer has been approached by a new printer maker, "FabMinds", to develop a phone app. This would be a combination printer store, filament store, 3D model repository and store, printer controller and slicer. It will finally usher in the era of 3d printing for the masses.

lol

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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do note that if your hotend is still new and shiny, the IR thermometer is probably inaccurate

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Prusa switched all their printer parts from ABS to PETG except the fan duct

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Chainclaw posted:

edit: For colors (especially if you're painting), do people still avoid black filament? Last time I was heavily ordering plastic, everyone discouraged using black because concerns about manufacturing quality across the board. It looks like it's probably less true now that so many manufacturers pushing their manufacturing precision so hard.

Black seems fine, what causes problems for me is white

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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NewFatMike posted:

What are you using to melt your eutectic alloy?

he said a tea light

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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so this longer thing, not looking good huh

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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:psypop:

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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biracial bear for uncut posted:

Pretty sure that if your use case is generating high-detail miniature prints that you're going to be spending a lot more in time/money/labor than just buying said miniatures from whoever originally created them.

Because I've literally never heard of a high-detail miniature printing use case that wasn't "The folks that own (warhammer/Disney/whatever video game/anime/tv show) want too much for their stuff (what's that? My labor is worthless!)"

I see you've never looked at games workshop prices. Also warhammer minis come unpainted

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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biracial bear for uncut posted:

$10.49 on Amazon

$21.99 same place

This gets a bit more expensive (about $44 here but I'm sure there are less expensive/probably more legitimate/cheaper options on ebay or something), but you're getting into larger and larger volumes of plastic, too.

I mean, sure, it gets closer to being worth it the larger you print it, but how much does your labor time increase as you scale up on a detailed object?

Maybe I put too much value on my time, but anything smaller than 1/56 scale for something the size of the SU-76 in real life wouldn't be worth my time, assuming it would take the same amount of time for me as it would for you.

you realize those model kits are more labor intensive than a one-piece print

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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I have one TPU that rips PEI off the bed and a different one from the same brand that doesn't stick at all, so have fun figuring that out

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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so, it turns out you pretty much can't recycle any plastic anywhere

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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The composters also don't want it because it takes too long to degrade, doesn't contribute any nutrients, and probably contains unknown additives

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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the reviews on that one don't look promising tbh

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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InternetJunky posted:

I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases?

Like in the image below where the arrow has dried warped.



I'd like to point out that this bow's limbs are not bent as they should be, making the string comically long, also the draw length is way too long, the artist should fix this :colbert:

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Paradoxish posted:

More or less, yeah.

Filling up a bed is one of the best and worst parts of resin printing. It's great because even very small printers can really crank out miniatures. It's terrible because I always feel like printing just one small miniature or part is a "waste," so I end up using a ton of resin since I'm filling out my bed almost every time I print.

Hey, at least it's not SLS where they throw out half the leftover powder after every print

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Sagebrush posted:

I don't know why you'd want a plotter

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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Neat spool winding is a marketing gimmick that doesn't actually matter.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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what are you going to do with the lid, have it take up space elsewhere instead of on the pritner where it fits perfectly?

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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because nobody wants to implement a CAD kernel just to slice models

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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I dropped some in water once to see what would happen, and they broke in half

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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I mean, what plastic do they make the dishwashers out of

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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the difference is you can actually hear if the 3d printer got quieter

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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goddamnedtwisto posted:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4694654

Fun little thing I found on thingiverse - a gift card holder that you have to solve a maze to open. Works pretty well even with cheap crappy filament and fast printing, and can even be personalised with the customiser on the website (or with the SCAD file the creator included). I find it works perfectly well (although not as satisfyingly) without the slider, which saves a fair bit of post-processing.

Currently whipping up a big batch of them in suitably festive red - thought I'd let you know now before I get stabbed on Christmas day by my family for making them work for the lovely gift cards I've given them all.

There's also this if you prefer cold hard cash

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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IPA is literally hand sanitizer my dude

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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If it is ABS, I guess there's solvent welding?

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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

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There is no "prusa patent", the gently caress are you talking about

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