|
Man, for the longest time I was getting nothing but failed prints on my Photon. Then I switched resins and I can’t get one to fail unless I try. I’m not even being particularly careful right now, doing things like printing flat on the build plate, rushing exposures, and things are still coming out great. Guess it all goes to show there are just some poo poo resins out there.
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2021 04:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
csammis posted:Name and shame. What brands are you / were you using? The good hotness in my vat is Sirayatech “fast” grey. The poo poo ones were all Anycubic’s OEM resins if you can believe it. I thought I couldn’t go wrong buying OEM but here we are. Maybe I kept getting a bad batch or something but I seriously estimate that I had maybe a 25% keeper rate with those resins. So far my only reject with Sirayatech was my fault, printing directly on the build plate and having the part snap when I tried to pry it loose. So not even a failed print, just an uncured print snapping under pressure. Otherwise I’m eight for eight in prints since I started using it last month. I don’t do a LOT of printing so hopefully it ages gracefully over the next twelve months, but I’m happy replacing it with another bottle in a year if it lasts and if it keeps feeding me great prints.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2021 12:01
|
|
|
At some point I should maybe print one of those calibration plates to figure out optimal exposure. I don't want to keep relying on this resin being idiot-proof but it's making a strong case to just keep using as is 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2021 13:21
|
|
|
Purely anecdotal on my part. Corroborated by one other poster but it could still just be a fluke. If it’s working for you then I wouldn’t worry in the least. I’m on an OG Photon and not mono so could be that it’s a combination of factors too.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:Obvious question but have you done an exposure calibration print for the resin which is failing? I tried, but ironically the print failed and stuck to the FEP instead. I think at that point I just kind of shrugged and stopped 3D printing for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
So at what point is an SLA platform too scratched to warrant replacing? Ever since I started printing more I’ve been resorting to razor blades to peel prints from my aluminum platform. I’m pretty careful about it, but every now and then I approach it at the wrong angle and give it a little scratch. So far nothing sharp and jutting out, and the only side effect at the moment is that anything I print flat on the platform takes on any scratches of sufficient depth. I am guessing my threshold will be if any of the scratches stick proud of the surface and have the ability to possibly puncture or stress the FEP. At the end of every session I run a razor over the whole surfaced just to feel if it catches on anything and so far I’ve been able to remove any stray flecks that stand proud. And yet again, another two weeks of small odds and ends printed and I’m 100% with sirayatech grey in probably seven sessions. Best investment in resin ever.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2021 15:55
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:If it's not for you, it's not for you, but I will say that installing a resin flex plate removes most of the worry regarding getting prints off the build plate. Holy poo poo I didn't know these were a thing! 90% of the mess and fuss and why I often don't print is that I do loathe the cleanup process, and INVARIABLY I get sticky and goo goes everywhere precisely because I'm trying to drive a wedge under my new print, sending it across the room when it breaks free.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2021 17:30
|
|
|
Obviously it would affect the stamp/die nature of producing these, but it would be cool if the little tab could curve up as it meets the plate. Still there for you to push against, but it would point up to present a minimal surface to foul your vat etc. The others I kind of figured were par for the course. Would still need to clean the plate carefully after each print, and at the price they're charging I can certainly be comfortable calling it a consumable same way I consider FEP a consumable. TBH the biggest problem I see is removing the adhesive from the build plate when it comes time to replace it altogether.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2021 18:57
|
|
|
Is there any weird fuckery I need to do between Fusion360 and Chitubox to get accurate dimensions? I have a part I designed in F360 that I know for a fact should fit on my Anycubic Photon build plate, but when I open the STL it towers over the build plate until I manually scale it down. F360 is set to mm units, and when I export the body/3d print/etc I have verified that “mm” is units. If I do a point to point measurement in F360, the part is dimensioned correctly. A specific hole in my part is 65mm diameter as expected. I can start a new design, import my stl with mm units and everything dimensions correctly, so I don’t think that F360 is exporting with incorrect coordinates, and it interprets the coordinates as mm as I would expect. But then when I open the STL in chitubox, the same hole which should be 65mm is now larger than my build plate, obviously incorrectly. I can’t find a way to do a measurement in cbox but it’s very obviously wrong, and more annoyingly I have no idea how it’s interpreting what it’s being fed so I can’t figure out how I would even begin to guess at a proper %age scale reduction to get it to print 1:1 as designed. Any thoughts? I’m open to other slicers, but I feel like there’s something very obvious that I might be overlooking. E: F360 part, diameter 66mm  Export settings, mm  Mesh, re-imported to check (roughly, by eye):  And yet: 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2022 18:56
|
|
|
Enos Shenk posted:Is your F360 file in MM as well? On the left in the tree thing under document properties there's In/MM. I know I've had issues with importing things before that the document itself was in metric but even though I changed the export specifically to imperial it stayed in metric.  Ayup. I am so confused right now  swampface posted:Does chitubox support .3mf? 3mf has units built in so may prevent whatever issue you're running into. I'll have to check. I'm also not married to chitubox, that just happens to be the one I've been using for forever. RabbitWizard posted:Should be a factor of 25.4 or 3.937% - inch to mm. Yeah, though I have no indication that this is actually importing in inches. Everything about cithubox says it defaults to mm, f360 swears up and down that it is doing coordinates in mm space, so i'm just at a loss to understand exactly where this is going sideways 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2022 00:24
|
|
|
Although all of a sudden it appears maybe I'm just loving stupid and my build plate really is that small and everything is working as intended? Literally thought the printable area on the Photon was bigger than this when laid flat... So, uh.. apologies.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2022 00:39
|
|
|
Weird Anycubic day today.. First I haven't touched 3D printing in like two years, so I'm super out of practice. I figured i'd update to the latest Cithubox before I sliced, ran through the setup wizard and selected the (OG) Anycubic Photon, but the slices it spit out were just visually garbage. They had a good preview image, but even running them through UVTools showed 300 layers of nothing but .. static? Weird. Luckily I still had my old Cithubox too and that produced something usable. Fired up my Photon, levelled it, poured in my two year old resin and crossed my fingers. 30 minutes later I had... a solid block of plastic. Investigated by removing the build plate and doing a dummy print just to see, and I saw that half the screen wasn't displaying, and the other half was inverted. Had no idea what the gently caress so I just pulled the whole thing apart and re-seated the cables and the UV test now showed a proper masked rectangle. Not sure how a printer that's literally been sitting for two years untouched suddenly needs cable re-seating but that's that. Still trying to figure out what the gently caress I did wrong with the new Cithubox though e: On the bright side, my ancient Elegoo resin printed like a dream. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Mar 26, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2024 17:34
|
|
|
I REALLY need to re-consider buying an FDM again in the future 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2024 11:19
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
Any advice for flexible SLA resins for a first time user? I want to print a handful of commodity fairing grommets that are annoyingly specific from BMW for my bike, as well as a few other rubber-ish screw covers -- all non-critical, but if I'm going to spend the hundred bucks it'll all cost from the OEM dealer I might as well say I tried to do it myself first. Everything will be printed in its final form, so no stretching or anything. The fairing grommets are arguably the only things that really "need" to be from a flexible material since they have to at least pretend to retain a plastic peg that you insert.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 17:25
|
|