3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I picked up an Ender-3 S1 from Micro Center a couple weeks ago and I've slowly been learning how to use it and calibrating it. I recently did a print of a brass mouthpiece and I'm pretty happy with the print quality now -- this both looks and sounds pretty decent:

# ¿ Oct 13, 2022 05:33

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 10:11

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Sagebrush posted:

you're overextruding a bit for that filament, i think, but if it works it works! i am a big fan of not messing with things that you're happy with as they are.

yeah, I've backed off the temperature a couple degrees and it's less grainy now; I've heard that white PLA tends to be a little more finicky than other colors because of the pigments in it

# ¿ Oct 13, 2022 15:27

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I have a regular Ender-3 S1 and it's got a rigid gantry, a double Z-axis motor and a relatively light bed and extruder, so resonance hasn't been an issue in anything I've printed so far, even when I start nudging print speeds up slightly from stock speeds.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2022 17:36

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Deviant posted:

Anyone have a suggestion for resin printer safety glasses? Something for 405nm I suppose with a certification worth the paper it's printed on.

you should be able to pick up a pair cheap at any local hardware store: for resin, the important thing is that it be resistant to splashed liquids, so you want something that has a "D3" rating, which isn't too hard to find. UV resistance isn't important unless you're somehow running the printer with the hood off

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 26, 2022

# ¿ Oct 26, 2022 19:11

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

RoboJoe posted:

I'm obviously new to 3D printing so I read the OP and see the Ender 3 series is quite recommended but the OP hasn't been updated since July 2021 and I see there are many, many different versions of the Ender 3 now, so I'm curious which might be the most recommended currently?
Doing a little googling I see good things about the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 Neo as more recent models, but as there are many to research I am feeling a little overwhelmed and could appreciate some advice please.

I had the same question and recently settled on the Ender-3 S1. It'll come down to how much money you want to spend and what features you think are going to be important to you:

The "S1" models have a "Sprite" direct extruder-hot end combo that the filament feeds directly into, compared to the Bowden system extruders where the extruder is mounted on the frame and passes the filament into the hot end via a long PTFE tube. Direct extruders are generally more reliable but more expensive, though Bowden extruders have the advantage of being lighter, a little easier to maintain and less susceptible to the printer's own vibrations.
The S1s also come with spring-steel magnetic print beds that can be picked up and flexed to remove the model, compared to having to pry or scrape off models from fixed beds.
The "Max" models have a slightly bigger bed area: 300 mm x 300 mm compared to 240 mm x 240 mm.
The "S1 Pro" has a higher temperature limit, which means it can handle more exotic filaments like nylon and carbon fiber.
The "S1" and "Neo" series both have a system that can automatically measure and compensate for slight bed alignment problems (Creality calls it "CR Touch").
Some of the cheaper models have a single Z-axis lead screw that moves the entire printhead beam; this can be finicky to calibrate and troubleshoot because the non-driven side will bounce if it's too slack and lag behind the motor if it's too stiff

If you do settle on something cheaper, the Ender-3 series is pretty easily upgradeable; there's lots of first-party and third-party mods you can get that'll bring a cheaper model up to the standards of one of the higher-end models. The only major thing you can't upgrade on an Ender-3 is the bed size, so if you're sure you want to print stuff in the 12" x 12" range it'd be worth it to get a Max.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Oct 28, 2022

# ¿ Oct 28, 2022 14:29

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

RoboJoe posted:

Apologies, I'm jumping back in requesting advice.

I usually spend days/weeks researching and debating with myself before finally settling on buying something but with this discount code I could get the Neptune 3 for just over ~~�181~~ �171 here in the UK via their store. By comparison the cheapest the Ender 3 S1 has been was �229 a month or so ago, and that's probably not going to happen again soon as it was a specific store that rarely does very hefty discounts as it's usual price is approximately �335 (or �419 on amazon )

I've done some swift googling and I'm planning to research more tomorrow but this thread (and other resources like amazon reviews) seems positive about the Neptune 3, so would I be an idiot to not buy this deal right now? As that does seem a great price to someone knowing little about 3D printers.
If anyone knows more, are there any major differences or advantages of the Neptune 3 compared to the Ender 3 S1, or even things that might be not as good? Do they use the same sort of filaments and whatnot to allow me to print things I might come across that is of interest to me?

I am incredibly indecisive and prone to overthinking so I appreciate all the help

Compared to the Neptune 3, the main thing you'd be missing from the S1 is the direct drive extruder (a comparison of the two), but �171 looks like a great price for everything else you'd be getting. You could eventually upgrade to a direct drive system if you find yourself wanting it later on.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Oct 28, 2022

# ¿ Oct 28, 2022 23:57

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Nerobro posted:

I have.. some real questions with that comparison there. Direct drive isn't all rainbows and roses. Of course, neither is bowden.

In general, the extruder setup isn't a big deal, and you'll have an easier time working on a bowden than a DD setup.

yeah, the distinction isn't quite as harsh as that site makes it out to be, I mainly linked it for the physical comparison of the two systems

# ¿ Oct 29, 2022 15:59

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Assuming they're mechanical or mechanical-like parts, your best bet for STL editing is probably importing them into Fusion 360, remeshing them and cleaning them up into something that isn't a million triangles.

STL really isn't intended to be an editable format, though; the discretization process of turning a volume into a set of points and triangles always causes a loss of some information or fidelity, so in some cases it might just be better to use the STL as a guide and remake the model yourself.

# ¿ Nov 4, 2022 16:15

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

queeb posted:

the gently caress do i do with this

get printing

# ¿ Nov 10, 2022 20:04

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Are there any decent options for converting an Ender-3 to dual extrusion? I've been making a lot of two-color nametags and keychains on my Ender-3 S1 for the various groups I'm involved in, and I'd like to do larger runs but having to babysit the machine to wait to hand-switch the filament limits the time I have available for printing. If I wanted to automate the filament swap, are there any aftermarket kits I could use for that, or should I just suck it up and maybe save my quarters for a Prusa with a MMU2S or similar?

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 16, 2022

# ¿ Nov 16, 2022 22:27

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

SubNat posted:

It's not exactly what you're asking for, but:
There are the filament-mergers, like the Mosaic Palette, which splices together filament outside the printer itself, too.
It's a successful enough product that it has like 3-4 iterations, but I have no idea how good they are in practice. (Or how fiddly.)

E: Oh jesus those things are many times more expensive than I expected.

Yeah, I think for the price of one of those I'd be better off just selling my printer and going with the aforementioned Prusa

# ¿ Nov 16, 2022 23:07

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Nerobro posted:

Is this where we talk about the ERCF?

But seriously, there is a mechanical filament changer... lets see if I can... Yes, found it.

https://www.3dchameleon.com/

I like this option for most people.

That looks pretty reasonable. Might be a good project for over the holidays.

# ¿ Nov 17, 2022 00:45

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I've been having persistent issues with the auto bed leveling on my Ender-3 S1 giving me worse results than manual calibration, with the mesh consistently underestimating the height of the left side of the bed and forcing the nozzle down into the bed surface, giving me real gnarly and inconsistent first layers. Trying to compensate by lowering the left screws caused the crash to get worse the next time it auto-leveled.

If anyone else is having the same issue, I swapped out the CR-Touch mount and fan shroud with a print of this modified mount that lines up the tip of the probe with the nozzle, and after doing a couple test prints it looks like this has compensated for whatever was causing the probe to be consistently wrong before this.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Nov 22, 2022

# ¿ Nov 22, 2022 09:52

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

m.hache posted:

Yeah. This new one is a direct drive so my likely issue is leveling

If it's an S1, the owner's group on FB has discovered that some leveling weirdness is frequently caused by the Y axis rail being bolted down at the factory too tightly to the plastic part of the chassis, which has a tendency to warp it in one direction or the other (and which is exacerbated by the way the CR-Touch probe is offset from the nozzle). A lot of people reported success with untightening the bolts, then retightening them to hand-tight.

This might apply to other forms of the Ender-3 but I'm not familiar with the way their rails are mounted.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 23, 2022

# ¿ Nov 23, 2022 19:39

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Entry-level printers like Neptune's and Sovol's have gotten pretty close to the "it just works" level (and Creality isn't too terrible either, they're just not the only game in town at that price point any more). The main draw of Prusa's printers nowadays is primarily the level of technical support and documentation they provide compared to the other brands, which still blows all the entry-level brands away -- it's probably worth the premium if you're looking to make money with 3D printing instead of just tinkering with it as a hobby.

# ¿ Nov 26, 2022 19:07

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Made this travel TTRPG kit with a dice tower and counter for an upcoming Secret Santa gift; this is my first attempt using rub-and-buff wax to finish a model

# ¿ Nov 26, 2022 22:55

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

After trying and failing a couple times to get Klipper working on my own I decided to give the Creality Sonic Pad a shot, and I've been pretty happy with it; it's got a little bit of the typical Creality weirdness to it (the documentation's crap and the default printer.cfg needed some editing), but it got me up and running with a working Klipper + Mainsail setup in about ten minutes, and the price wasn't too much more than what I'd have spent on a RPi and touch screen and case and accelerometer

# ¿ Nov 28, 2022 06:17

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

I live in a miniscule new york apartment and have no problem printing PLA and PETG with an ender 3 pro in my bedroom.

That's basically my setup too, I've got about a 4' x 4' corner of a room in my apartment dedicated to a shelf unit and pegboard for my FDM printer and all the associated accessories and supplies and tools. I have soft rubber feet on the shelf and the printer itself to minimize vibration transmission, and the only noise I hear when I'm in another room is if I accidentally nudged the printer back a couple inches and the Y axis cable is bumping into the wall. I haven't gotten any complaints from neighbors about noise, and the apartment's HVAC system is enough to remove the slight odor of melted filament.

When I was evaluating my options I really wanted a resin printer to start out with because of the cool stuff that's easier to make with resin, but until I can get a place with a garage or basement or work shed where I can isolate the printer away from where I eat and sleep and not worry about damaging my furniture or the floors if there's an accident, it's just too impractical and potentially dangerous.

# ¿ Nov 28, 2022 19:36

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Chainclaw posted:

What's the best way to unclog PLA?

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008

I don't have a heat gun, tetrahydrofuran, or ethyl acetate, which are the three recommended ways to unclog it here. I'll order one, but I don't want to get all three if I can help it.

Ethyl acetate is the main component of acetone-free nail polish remover, which you can find at most drugstores or supermarkets

# ¿ Dec 5, 2022 17:11

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Dirty Needles posted:

Just ordered an Ender S1, first FDM after printing with Resin for the last year. Any owners got anything I should sort out first or worthwhile upgrades, any weird poo poo it does?

The "professional firmware" is a pretty quick and easy improvement over stock, and I'd recommend a PEI spring steel bed over the PC-coated one it comes with.

# ¿ Dec 6, 2022 17:04

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I've been daydreaming about putting together a Voron, but then I think about how I could just get a Bambu Lab instead, and then I think about how I've only had my Ender-3 for like three months and it's been perfectly fine

# ¿ Dec 7, 2022 05:54

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Nerobro posted:

If that's the equation in your head, Bambu is the way to go. Building a voron is a project. It's ~a thing to do~. Getting into the community is a good thing for you as someone who runs a 3d printer. The capabilites of a voron are available elsewhere. But if you buy a P1P, or a X1 or whatever you're at their whim. It's their machine. Fixing it is finding parts for those printers. Oh, and Babu sends data home. A voron is designed using industrial commodity parts, and you will be able to fix, or upgrade it, forever. And it's ~yours~.

Yeah, that's basically the dilemma: do I want a project to do, or do I just want a fancier printer?

# ¿ Dec 7, 2022 15:58

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

GWBBQ posted:

Are a couple of DIY or cheap tables with leveling feet sufficient or should I go a bit heavier duty for the ender?

One of the most popular DIY cabinet enclosures for small printers is made out of IKEA LACK tables and those are made of pressboard and paper, so I don't think you need to go crazy finding a table for it

The stock firmware doesn't really move the printhead fast enough for resonance ringing to be a huge issue, and if you set up Klipper for faster prints you can pick up a cheap accelerometer and let it calculate the resonance compensation factors to apply

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Dec 8, 2022

# ¿ Dec 8, 2022 16:29

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Listerine posted:

How do you handle the refillable spool- if I had a spool of polymaker or whatever, do I have to unspool it from the spool it came on and wind it around the Bambu refillable spool?

For the AMS, it looks like it can take most spool widths without having to respool it; the store page says "a width of 50-68mm and the diameter of around 200mm". They don't recommend cardboard spools because they generate dust and can slip on the interior rollers, but you could print a plastic rim to fit around the edges

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Dec 10, 2022

# ¿ Dec 10, 2022 05:18

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

They want $200 for it now, too, I really can't see anyone being able to justify taking the plunge on it especially since there's no trial or lite version

# ¿ Dec 14, 2022 23:27

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Rhyno posted:

I am smitten with this Neptune 3 Pro.

So what's up with the leveling on the Plus and the Max? They say auto leveling like this but still have adjustment wheels?

"Auto-leveling" is a marketing term, it's more like "automatic imperfection compensation" that'll account for slight elevation variations of the bed. You still need to manually tram the bed to get the nozzle even with the bed everywhere in the first place, but the auto-leveling probe means you can get to "good enough" instead of "perfect" by hand.

# ¿ Dec 19, 2022 21:25

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Rhyno posted:

Guess I just don't get it. The Neptune 3 Pro doesn't have adjustment wheels, I assumed their bigger and better models would also lack them.

I forgot the Neptune 3 didn't have bed screws -- they're probably on the bigger printers since a bigger bed will have more exaggerated deflections if it's not level with the axes, and the ABL can only compensate by so much before it starts noticeably distorting the print (since it compensates by moving the head, not the bed) so having the hand screws on the corners makes it easier to get a reliable baseline

# ¿ Dec 20, 2022 01:46

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I use Inland PLA+ for everything that doesn't require high heat resistance or flexibility, and it's been perfectly fine to work with.

# ¿ Dec 28, 2022 21:05

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

NewFatMike posted:

The what now? I hate this poo poo, I have to hold my tongue routinely about Titans of CNC because Gilroy is an absolute CHUD and dipshit.

I assume it's related to this
https://twitter.com/3DPrintGeneral/status/1577102230443872257

# ¿ Dec 28, 2022 22:26

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

The tool changer is still pretty attractive compared to the Bambu's maze of bowden tubes, but I dunno if it's really an extra $1000 or more nice

# ¿ Jan 3, 2023 21:58

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Acid Reflux posted:

For those of us who don't mind the budget filaments - IIID Max has a 15% off end-of-year sale coupon. At current prices, that brings a 10-pack of PLA+ down to $101.92 shipped in the USA.

https://llldmax.com/
Coupon code is HAPPY2023

My order of this stuff came today, and so far, so good -- my only complaint is that IIIDMAX's white PLA+ is more of a bone white than I was expecting, compared to the Inland stuff that's brilliant white. I like the shades of blue I got, though.

# ¿ Jan 6, 2023 02:54

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

You could also line the shelves above the 3D printers with something fire-resistant, like a piece of cement board or some sheet metal.

# ¿ Jan 10, 2023 01:16

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Tiny Timbs posted:

Can I get some help sorting out my filament path? I'm struggling to figure out how to integrate a runout sensor and dryer box with this setup. As it is now the angles into and out of the runout sensor seem too extreme and while I don't see any issues in the print the components make a lot of twangy noises from the strain.

turning the printer 90 degrees counterclockwise looks like it'd take care of it

# ¿ Jan 12, 2023 16:48

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I accidentally nuked my Klipper setup and don't have any recent backups of my printer.cfg, life is suffering

# ¿ Jan 13, 2023 16:31

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Bobulus posted:

PrusaSlicer seems to do a off-plate waste run and a skirt loop. Seems excessive.

In PrusaSlicer the first purge line is set up in the "Start G-code" field in the printer's "Custom G-code" tab, so you can remove those commands or resize the line it draws if you want

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 16, 2023

# ¿ Jan 16, 2023 22:37

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

The S1 Plus is decent, but I don't think it's "$200 more than the Neptune 3 Plus" decent

# ¿ Jan 18, 2023 21:13

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

I think the one advantage Creality still has is that they're probably the easiest printers to currently buy in a retail store (at least in the US, in markets served by Micro Center); I saw a working 3D printer for the first time at my local Micro Center, and I decided to take the plunge on 3D printing during one of their fairly frequent sales on Ender-3 machines. They have a decent selection of supplies and upgrade parts, the employees there are knowledgeable enough to help with setup and basic troubleshooting, and they'll replace a machine that's DOA out of the box without any hassle, all of which take care of most of the pain points of working with Ender-3s. If Elegoo or Sovol or anyone else started getting their machines into brick-and-mortar storefronts here I think they'd pretty easily dislodge Creality from the entry-level hobbyist market

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 18, 2023

# ¿ Jan 18, 2023 21:29

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

If you're doing multiple objects in series instead of parallel it's pretty easy for the head to accidentally ram another print if you didn't take the head's envelope into account in the slicer settings

# ¿ Jan 19, 2023 13:34

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Deviant posted:

which is odd, isn't it auto leveling and without knobs?

Auto-leveling only works if the bed's already level within a particular tolerance, so if you need to tram the bed to get it within those limits you need to get in under the bed with a screwdriver and possibly shim it with washers, which can be awkward

# ¿ Jan 20, 2023 18:22

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 10:11

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

SubNat posted:

That's good, it's such a nice QoL thing.

By the way, klipper goons: is there anything clever I should be doing with filament change macros (since klipper doesn't support M600), or is just firing off a pause perfectly functional? (And then manually resuming after swapping?)

I've been using this set of Klipper macros, which includes an implementation of M600 and filament change macros that use it

# ¿ Jan 31, 2023 00:18

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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