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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

The Eyes Have It posted:

Every laser engraving vendor has photoshopped images of smiling families engraving stuff uncovered in the middle of their kitchen or nursery so not surprising it took you by surprise.

Laser cutting and engraving is just hella smelly in general.

Yeah, the flood of cheap frame type diode lasers is a little concerning from a safety standpoint. I'm gonna quote myself from the '3D printing for tabletop' thread.

BlackIronHeart posted:

I don't know if it's a reputable manufacturer either but there are some things to really be aware of with these open frame diode lasers, there are some very real safety concerns. I'm not saying 'Don't use it' but I am saying 'Educate yourself before using it'. All lasers used for hobby crafting work by burning poo poo with radiation that can blind you, full stop. You've got 3 potential issues when lasering stuff:

- Causing a fire
- Inhaling dangerous/toxic fumes
- Blinding living creatures

Check out this video for safety issues that include the three above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU

If nothing else, you'll want to get some sort of enclosure and fume extraction set up if you're going to be using this thing. Don't let kids/pets near it and know what you can safely laser and what you can't. Don't laser anything containing vinyl. Don't trust any no-name, cheap laser safety glasses to actually protect your eyes, trust a metal enclosure to protect your eyes. Don't walk away from the machine while it's operating in case of fire.

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Yeah, don't use Illustrator for lasers, it's way overkill and much too expensive for what you're doing.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

w00tmonger posted:

Is there a method of calibrating bottom layer exposure time, number of layers, transition layers etc for resin?

Winter weathers led to a bunch of failures the last couple days and I want to make sure I'm on the right track

Cones of Calibration worked for me! https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Rexxed posted:

I wonder how close polymaker looks at youtubers besides subscriber count.

Polymaker also sponsors Ivan Miranda and he's such a fun little weird guy, I enjoy his projects.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I wish Elegoo had a 'Notify me' for their out of stock brand new printers. I really want a Plus or Max but who knows when I can buy one!

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I always wear a respirator when sanding resin models (both cast and 3D printed resin) as you definitely don't want that poo poo in your lungs. Wet sanding helps keep the dust down.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

Just picked up an Anycubic Photon Mono 4k at microcenter for $149.99! I was gonna buy resin as well, but all they had was Inland branded resin, and considering I don't know anything about resin printing, I thought I'd wait to do some research.

Welcome! I've had a Photon Mono X for almost 2 years and had a Photon for a few years before that. Youtube is probably the best place to learn about new or different resins by simply searching for the brand and type you're interested in. Goon favorite brands include Elegoo, SirayaTech and (lately) Sunlu. Most 3D printing channels will have a variety of content and here are some channels I've found helpful for varying reasons:

Uncle Jessy
Vogman
TableFlip Foundry

I began with Chitibox and moved entirely over to Lychee Slicer as I appreciate their continuing support and additions to the program. I subscribed for their Pro version and I'm not regretting it, especially with the latest update that includes planar cutting and inline support painting tools. Lychee Pro will also check for 'suction cups', those pockets you mentioned.

Most settings are contained in the print file, the only setting I can recall needing to change on the printer itself is the UV light power (basically everyone recommends knocking it down to 80%) and that setting has never defaulted upon powering down. Any worthwhile slicing software will support Anycubic printers so no worries there.

It's much more important to calibrate your printer for the space it'll be working within. This means changing the properties and settings for your particular resin within your slicer and doing calibration prints. I recommend starting out by checking out settings for your resin here as a baseline starting position: Resin Settings

Then slice and print some calibration tests:
3D Benchy
Cones of Calibration
Cubes of Calibration

Finally please be careful with resin printing, the poo poo is toxic and messy and likes to get everywhere. Some good nitrile gloves, some silicone baking mats to catch spills and a lot of shop rags will go a long way to keeping things relatively clean and safe.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Bodanarko posted:

Neptune 3 Plus back in stock on elegoo’s site for the US. I’ve been very impressed by what I’ve seen in reviews of the Pro/Plus/Max and have been wanting something with a larger build volume than my Prusa Mini+ and E3Pro.

I’m just lucky the max isn’t available because I would have absolutely bought it just for printing exactly one 1kg rainbow articulated dragon and never anything that large again

About time but I figured things would be back in stock today. I'm in the same boat, a Max would've been nice but a Plus will likely suit me just fine.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Learning all the settings inside of PrusaSlicer was really worth it. I'm getting some really nice prints out of my Neptune 3 Plus after tuning stuff in. I was hoping to take advantage of Lychee Slicer since I use it for my Photons but it's just not there yet for features.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
HDF can also contain formaldehyde and sucks considerably more (in terms of manufacturing efficiency) than MDF when laser cutting.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Also we've been talking recently about laser cutting in the 3D Printing for the Tabletop thread which might suit this conversation better.

In my experience, MDF is much better to laser cut for tabletop stuff than plywood simply because it tends to be way more flat and less warped. I've gotten some 1/8" Baltic birch that looked like a sail in the wind and that's a real pain in the rear end for focus distances.

Roundboy posted:

How does all of this off gassing and fumes talk work when you use an enclosure and vent it outside/out a filter?

The main worry once you have adequate and proper ventilation is getting crud on your mirrors and surfaces that parts move on or along.

BlackIronHeart fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 23, 2023

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Speaking of after purchase support, my Plus might've had a leak around the nozzle as my heat block was covered in melted PLA. It was almost all under the silicone boot so I don't know how that could've happened with a failed print but Elegoo is just sending me a new hot end. That's pretty cool! I decided to replace the heatbreak to go all metal when the new part comes in so it's nice they're not giving me the run around.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Bondematt posted:

Edit: And the funniest thing is the print worked, just a little under extrudey

That's actually what caused me to investigate things, my prints were at least completing but things looked off and under-extruded. I was trying to compensate with settings until a buddy advised me to have a look for something physical.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

PBCrunch posted:

I bought a used Ender 3 Pro. My first "useful" print was a bracket to hang up a Makita battery pack charger that doesn't have keyholes for wall mounting. To use the printed object, one removes the little rubber feet from four holes on the bottom of the charger and then puts these four little printed pegs into those holes.

The pegs I printed don't fit into those holes. They are close enough that I think the model from Thingiverse is correct. Is there anything special I need to know about sanding the pegs so that they fit? I want them to be snug, but a little room for some hot glue probably wouldn't hurt (or would it)? What do I do so that future prints match the intended dimensions more closely?

Clough42 talked about a few different things that can cause real world dimensions to differ from a digital model after it's printed. The vids are a few years old but I think the information is still valid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dFThbwAx2Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxA3hJBpKr8

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Is there a laser cutter thread? For lack of a better term, is there a Prusa of laser cutters? I can't seem to find much between a $400 K40 and a $4000 Glowforge. Open-frame laser cutters scare me and I'd prefer to pay a bit more so I don't have to worry about my house burning down or my eyeballs falling out.

There's no thread that I'm aware of. The big difference in price comes from the type of lasers being used, diode vs CO2, and there aren't many options in the sub $4K arena for CO2 lasers. Gweike Cloud machines are just under $3000 and I've heard good things about them. They apparently have a ~$2-2.5K machine coming out soon.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I'll attest to, at the minimum, Elegoo's customer support being top notch. My N3 Plus had a leaky nozzle and they sent me an entirely new hot end, at no charge at all, after I emailed them a pic of it. It's been chugging along 24/7 ever since and every print has been great after a little tuning and calibration. It's my first FDM machine and I'm really happy with it.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I decided to make my own monitor light bar rather than buy some cheap poo poo from Amazon or drop more cash than I was willing to spend. Thanks to the folks in this thread mentioning tips about PETG, my first print after a temp tower turned out really great! I'm now ripping off two 11" lengths to use as LED diffuers. This is Giantarm Clear PETG at 235/80 on an N3 Plus using the generic PETG profile in Cura.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

smax posted:

The old frame is metal. The frame in that picture is a plastic injection molded part, the circle with a 22 in the center is a dead giveaway, not to mention all of the visible injection points. The apparent rigidization is to bring its stiffness up to be comparable to the older metal frame, if I had to guess.

My thought is that injection molded plastic costs less than the older metal frame, which lets them be more competitive on cost. It may actually be a benefit to upgrade an MK3 to a MK4 since the metal frame has some inherent benefits (likely stronger, heavier for vibration dampening, etc.).

From their press release:

quote:

The cut aluminum frame we used so far is now replaced by a brand new die-cast aluminum frame (the translation previously stated “injection-molded” which is not correct). To be more specific: we’re using an aluminum-based alloy that is first injected into a two-part mold. After that, the raw cast frame is cleaned from technological runners and other casting scraps, sandblasted and powder coated.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I just want any miscast pieces.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I noticed a similar issue today and lowered my Z offset by .1mm but I had some schmutz under my flex plate.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Yeah, 'Running unknown gcode you got from the internet' is pretty much the #1 thing you don't do, right?

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Neptune 3 Plus machines are back in stock for the US as of this post.

https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-3-plus-fdm-3d-printer-with-larger-build-volume-of-320x320x400mm

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I upgraded my Neptune 3 Plus with an all metal hot end after a buddy rewired a new thermistor for me and I seemed to have completed it with no issues on the first go, so I'm absolutely blown away.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Big thanks to this thread for some of the knowledge imparted, I was having weird threads coming off my prints and finally fixed it by tuning my retraction settings. It wasn't stringing, it wasn't hairy little fibers, but maybe a dozen tubes that were 3-4mm long at a full 0.4 diameter or so coming out of the piece. Really strange but lowering retraction distance and slightly increasing the retraction speed eliminated them.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
loving A. I was wondering why all my bridging and overhangs started looking like lovely, droopy messes. Maybe the setting that's capping my fan speed at 40% is the culprit, how did that happen. :cripes:

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I try to keep my food away from my melted plastics and resins.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Would TPU be an option, so it deforms instead of shattering?

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Anyone have any recommended sites for buying spare parts that also has good/fast shipping to the US? I need to replace the screen on a Mono X and Anycubic is out of stock.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

BadMedic posted:

I did try applying heat too but uhhh

I broke it trying to pull it off harder
... and the heatsink *still* refuses to come off of the heatbreak

so, about those all metal hotends...

Some companies will use threadlocker on their hot ends so there's really not much you can do about it. A lot of heat can sometimes do the trick but your result is more often than not what happens. Goondolences.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I named my N3Plus Mr. Chungus, I can't imagine where I could even put a Max.

I did recently complete making this upgrade for it:
https://www.printables.com/model/457453-neptune-3-proplusmax-dual-5015-cooling-shroud

The hot end fans are now capped at 50% speed, printing PLA at 75mm/s, and the PSU fan is now the loudest component. Pretty nice!

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Sure thing! And there are versions of the shroud that have mounts for accelerometers, I dimly recall you mentioning them in this thread before.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
I had an issue with my N3 Plus that necessitated utilizing Elegoo's customer support and it was a very painless, quick resolution so +1 for that. I know there are some differences between the Plus and the Pro but the consensus so far (and my own experience) is that these printers largely Just Work. I'm very glad a Neptune was my choice for my first FDM printer.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Well, who'd have thought my Neptune printer would take to Elegoo PLA so well. My wallet's going to be as happy as I am about this discovery!

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Elegoo seems to be more interested in shipping parts out for free under their warranty. It's weird but I'm not complaining yet.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Huh, I did not expect to see a jam look like this.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Bondematt posted:

I had TPU jam as a neat little knot once.

It would have been really neat if that knot wasn't also wrapped around the extruder gear and required me to pull the topend completely apart to get it out.

I had to mostly disassemble my hot end to get this bugger out. The heatsink/brake/block/nozzle is all mostly one piece that comes out when you remove two bolts from the heat sink (after removing the breakout board and head shroud with its fans) and then I had to push the filament out. Just unsure how it was caused, this is normal PLA and I haven't encountered this issue before.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

IncredibleIgloo posted:

The upside down Ultramarine signal, Omega, is the resistance feature.

Goddamn, this is such an appropriate but nerdy explanation. Someone take this nerds lunch money already.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
The Giantarm Clear PETG was good for me, for what it's worth.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Woof. I'd love to run a print farm and just make models of terrain all day but my medication costs about $6k/mo before insurance so God Bless America.

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Same, I keep a torch lighter in my printer toolbox for wisps and small strings.

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