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Ground floor Ok here is my contribution: List of goons willing to print your stuff for you, i.e. "Goon 3d printing directory" https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UAebpOkdSKwWXIIBAJa8V4Sl3w1Bfk1Il2v5iF_SEgA/edit#gid=0 Hadlock fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 05:10
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 00:22 |
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What's the largest thing I can print in vase mode I was printing boat hull...sections, about 180x180x225mm in vase mode no problem, then took a hiatius to build RC boat out of said bot hull sections. Now I'm building V2 and the vase came out all... wavey? Several ripples and it "pops" back and forth I think, looking at the gcode from prusaslicer, in the V1 I had an "external perimeter" of 0.90mm, layer height 0.20mm. This was for a build volume of 180x180x225 In the V2, I had 0.45 external perimeter, layer height 0.28.... build volume 220x220x230mm so a fair bit larger Although I'd have to go dig out my digital calipers to be sure if there's any difference. the V2 definitely seems more flimsy to me. V1 was generic amazon brand PLA, V2 is name brand PLA
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Jul 25, 2021 13:13
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Hadlock posted:What's the largest thing I can print in vase mode Swapped external perimeter from 0.45mm to 0.90, seems to register differently in prusaslicer, even in vase mode  time to kick off another 6 hour test printI keep reading that switching to a 1.0mm nozzle a) give you stronger prints b) dramatically speeds up printing time c) reduces fine detail (important for tiny figurines, etc) I am regularly printing 60%+ of my printer's build volume, in vase mode, an average print for me is ~5.5-9 hours. I do a bunch of post processing, then paint the pieces, then fill them with lead/epoxy so, I don't mind the reduced fine detail, as I'm going to sand it down and paint it anyways TL;DR trying to speed up prints, but when I change the nozzle size in prusaslicer from 0.40 to 1.00 the print speed doesn't go up, stays exactly the same, in this case 6h39m; what are some sane (and maybe some insane) printing Hadlock fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 01:39
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here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long Here's the stern test piece I'm printing @ 0.90mm external perim width, it'll superglue to the stern ... also added a small brim as that seems to have a huge impact on edge lift  Here4DaGangBang posted:Wouldn’t you need to increase speed in your slicer settings as well? How fast can you go with a 1.0mm? I sort of assumed that the speed of the nozzle couldn't go any faster, but I guess I'm wrong? Ok, I just tried my stern model which is clocking in at 6h39m for 0.4 nozzle, 0.90 external perimeter width, 0.20 layer height, 25mm/s nozzle speed Modified to 1.0, 0.90 ext perim width, 0.20 layer height, 50mm/s nozzle speed.... 6h39m?
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Jul 26, 2021 01:53
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In theory, i'm assuming at least, moving layer thickness from 0.20 to 0.40 ought to roughly halve print time? And yeah the other variable I'm trying to increase is wall thickness. Kill three birds with one stone 1. thicker wall 2. shorter print time 3. stronger print overall I am about a quarter way through my new 0.90mm wall thickness print, dimensional stability has improved dramatically I can't seem to increase top layer thickness* above 0.38 in vase mode, as it's grayed out for some reason, and 0.40 is too small to print a ~2mm external perimeter thickness *top layer thickness isn't used in vase mode, I smell a PR coming on
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Jul 26, 2021 03:17
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w00tmonger posted:Is detail an issue? What about a bigger nozzle? Scroll up about , uh, 3, 4 and 6 posts or ctrl f for 1.0 and 1mm Going bigger nozzle means bigger layer height and there's some bug in prusaslicer preventing me from modifying a value that's not used in vase mode I'm just gonna Fuckin' Deal With It and print 0.9mm wall thickness, I've been manhandling my 1 meter test mule so far without issue at that thickness, and it's looking like I can print boats up to 5 feet long before I need to tackle this issue futher. Current new test mule is only going to be 4.2 feet long. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 04:16
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Wanderless posted:Is there any chance your printer is in the path of an AC vent or something like that? If the corners are in the right spot but the walls are warping it could be because of differential cooling as the temperature changes with the AC cycling on and off. Because I'm a great big nerd I have a bluetooth temp/humidty tracker in that corner of the room, from 11pm to 5am the temp dropped from 76.2 to 74.5F and RH never got more than 1/10th of a % off from 48.5% That said differential cooling might have had something to do with it, 0.45mm is literally paper thin, and the outside diameter of the shape I'm holding in that pic is ~27 inches; combination of almost zero structural rigidity of 0.45mm plastic, and extremely minor temperature differences across 27 inches will probably add up. What is interesting is that the waves on each of the three "sides" are in different locations Here is what 5 pieces look like, printed at 0.90mm, from the prevous thread. Zero issues. Hadlock posted:Sailboat project in progress, 5 of 5 sections printed, now I have to glue them together Hadlock posted:Hull crudely sanded, with access hatch in place: insta posted:Hadlock, enable expert settings and remove the volumetric flow limit set on your plastic. It's under the filament tab. Thanks I'll give this a try
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Jul 26, 2021 05:49
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Ghostnuke posted:how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA Yeah it's lead shot, with some carbon fiber twigs in there to give it some tensile strength, soaked in epoxy resin. There's a ~15% density loss due to using shot instead of pouring hot lead but for my purposes it's sufficient. A lot of people use a cast counterweight bolted to the bottom of a stick, but that involves a bunch of mechanical strain analysis. The way I'm doing it is considered acceptable, and also allows me to use vase mode which short circuits a whole lot of design work, and focus on water proofing and actual real world testing That said, in theory you should be able to put some lead shot in the bottom (to get part of the keel underwater), pop the boat in water, then pour lead in, and the water should prevent the PLA from getting much hotter than 110c, but don't feel like trying this in my bathtub Hadlock fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 17:52
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Does there exist a blender config file for doing 3d printed stuff I was looking at a tutorial and it looked like there were 70 things you had to set very exactly
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Jul 27, 2021 03:49
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Yeah that's the video I watched, my eyes glazed over at about minute 8 of adjusting the 59th setting. Maybe I'm just getting too old for this poo poo. Babies are exhausting
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Jul 27, 2021 04:51
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Yeah mainly I just want to generate an STL, for example, a 2x2" square plate about 3mm thick, with a smaller 1/2" hollow square that's about 1" tall, in the middle of the plate, wall thickness also about 3mm, so I can glue that to the deck of the boat and stick the vertical mast in it, aka "mast step". Not much different from a patio umbrella stand. The blender guy makes it sound like you have to modify a billion settings so that the STL file comes out the correct dimensions
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Jul 27, 2021 10:16
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I'll check out discord tonight at some point, thanks!Bucnasti posted:The biggest advantage I've found to using Blender is that the community is huge. Anytime I need to know how to do something new, a quick google search will produce three videos, a redit post and a well documented wiki with detailed instructions. Yeah I learned blender a.... A decade ago? Jesus. When Kerbal space program came out. I designed a pizza box with deployable pizza so you could deliver pizza orbit/suborbitally, along with a variety of fairly simple rocket things, most of rocketry is cylinders, which is a big reason for me to continue down that road, I think, but I'm realizing I've forgotten most of it at this point
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Jul 27, 2021 20:02
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Yeah sharp edges are classic crack propagation points, this is why airliners and boats have windows with rounded corners. Even adding a 1/4" radius to that 90° bend would add +20% strength
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Jul 27, 2021 23:20
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Ambrose Burnside posted:, the inside cavity is a challenge- it's a long, narrow tube Lmfao April is an awfully long ways away
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Jul 28, 2021 01:49
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I have rotated from printing 4 foot long sailboats, to highly specialized Brio-compatible train stuff for my nephew We have got all the ramps and elevated track
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Aug 10, 2021 04:22
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Thingverse has an alarming selection of T, r, K, W connectors and six/eight way intersections, plus an assortment of real and sci-fi tunnels, bridges, elevated track supports etc Nephew used to hate coming over to be babysat at our house once a week, now I like to pull the stuff out and build poo poo with it  Brio charges $20 for a 4 pack of long straight track section so it's nice to just print your own for pennies. I have a gcode file for FIVE long track segment, uses 158g of filament, so about $1.58 for five or 31¢ ea
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Aug 10, 2021 06:35
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I have maybe 300 hours on my Ender 3 V2, I can't ever see spending the money for a Prusa Looking at getting an Ender Extender kit to move my E3 V2 to a 400x400 build area. Even with my newer 4.2' model boat, I'm rapidly running out of deck space for solar panels etc being limited to a ~8.25" boat width, as well as not being able to pack a lot of internal ballast, and between the servos, three(!!!) different radios it's too cramped to tweak and tinker. Moving to a wider boat should allow me to put 10w of solar. Right now I'm going to struggle to put 6w, and all the components are just crammed inside the hull which makes it impossible to service. The OG boat is 6" wide and just lol to work on
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Aug 10, 2021 21:47
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becoming posted:If I didn't buy a Prusa then how would I brag about having a Prusa? That kit ought to be fine. I also swapped out the firmware for... Jasper/Marlin? I dunno, I linked to it, you can find it somewhere, has a lot of QoL improvements for bed leveling etc Also maybe consider some extra 0.4mm nozzles, I used one to draw like a crayon on my print bed during a leveling exercise, it didn't work very well after that
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Aug 10, 2021 23:06
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w00tmonger posted:Out of curiosity, how do you go about running your farm business wise? Are you listing yourself as a local printshop, going Etsy, some other service? There's a link to an unmoderated Google doc on the first page of this thread with some commercial goon offerings, if you're interested
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Aug 12, 2021 03:57
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How do we feel about gyroid infill below 25%
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Aug 14, 2021 10:36
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I've been using the Jasper branch of Marlin, very happy with it, I think I'm using the 15x15 bed probe version. Takes forever to do the probe but appears to be very accurate https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin Can you link to where you found the klipper stuff for E3 V2? Printer firmware is very fragmented and most of the links are grossly out of date, thanks
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Aug 16, 2021 09:41
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Sockser posted:There is a plug-in for octoprint that will give you a nice 3d render of how out of level your bed is The jeyers/marlin fork has this built in to the E3 V2 firmware, there's some pretty obvious low points on my build plate, the center is ~0.08mm lower in the center than the edges, and the top right corner has a notable low spot too
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Aug 16, 2021 23:28
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Yeah I installed a bltouch on my E3 V2
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Aug 17, 2021 00:09
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I ordered 10 nozzles from the creality store for $8 on Amazon, printing great so far, but I have less than 6 months in this hobby so adjust my opinion accordingly https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FKXQ5GC/
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Aug 17, 2021 20:46
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Do the Ender 3 Pro have the really noisy mainboard? That was fixed in the E3 V2? That alone is worth the extra $80 for me, the printer sits about 3 feet to my left.
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Aug 21, 2021 08:51
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w00tmonger posted:Possibly you complaining, but this was brought up on Facebook by someone and frankly I've lost all faith in sirayatech to carry a product consistently There is extremely limited capacity shipping from china -> us west coast right now Used to be you could manufacture something in china, then throw it in a container and ship it to LA/Oakland for $2900-3600 per container, have it in your california warehouse in 9-11 days Right now shipping is so tight, scheduled container shipments are costing $14,000/container, unscheduled, last minute containers are running north of $40,000. Once it gets to California (9-11 days), it'll likely sit at anchor waiting in line to get unloaded for 3-10 days, then get unloaded and sit at the port for another 5+ days before it goes to a warehouse (22-25 days @ 4x cost). Truck/forklift drivers and warehouse workers are among the least likely to be vaccinated, so there's constant labor shortages in the shipping industry right now. TL;DR everyone is having supply problems right now, it's going to take until next spring to get everything fully unfucked, do your christmas shopping now Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 08:29
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There's a reason why even the cheapest sunglasses have the little "100% UV block!" sticker on them
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Sep 3, 2021 09:06
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Can someone point me to an objective comparison of print quality between a Prusa and a dialed in Ender 3 V2 using the same filament Prusa people swear by them, but I just can't see the difference in quality. My guess is that PLA filament got better, as did the slicers, and Prusa others owners haven't seen a modern consumer printer for several years Maybe Prusa is that much better? I can't tell the difference from what my printer produces vs online Prusa photos
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Sep 4, 2021 00:14
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Can someone post a couple high quality photos of a PLA print done with their Prusa, along with a link to the STL and layer height used, and I'll do the same with my ender 3 v2. I still haven't seen a real world comparison where I could point to one and go "yep, that's clearly a Prusa" I usually print things at least 4 x 4 x 4 inches with a layer height of .28 or .32 so maybe the quality of the Prusa is just lost on me
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Sep 4, 2021 08:36
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BMan posted:your cable is physically broken Correct Your copper wire has flexed it's last electron safely, I'd say about three weeks ago Please replace at your earliest convenience; if your house burns down, please do not commit insurance fraud and delete this image as evidence tampering is not kosher
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Sep 8, 2021 08:46
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Oh cool, if you failed to lose money investing in MakerBot/Thingverse a decade ago, now's your chance Make sure you get paid in full up front
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Sep 9, 2021 01:17
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BMan posted:do note that if your hotend is still new and shiny, the IR thermometer is probably inaccurate IR reflectivity index difference between polished stainless steel and human skin is less than 5% IIRC On a related note, we got The Fanciest set of stainless steel all-clad pans as a wedding gift and my wife was burning her eggs to the non stick pan so I got her this industrial grade Fluke thermometer so she wouldn't heat the pan above 168F and burn her eggs https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089N2ZH6 Not only is it probably more accurate than your typical device (you can buy this model with a NIST certificate) but it's rated for three meter drop test so it's (almost) toddler proof. Also has a laser "cone of measurement" targeting device to help accurately asses if you're actually measuring the thing you want to measure This Fluke device also comes with a printed table of IR emmisitivity which you can then calibrate your device for based on the material you're measuring ______ / 
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Sep 10, 2021 19:15
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What is everyone's experience using alignment pins to precisely align two parts together for gluing I saw one guy on Reddit using 2mm pins to align a medium sized objects together with no load on them. My experience with negative space tends to have excess filament in it; not sure if you should budget 0.1, 0.2mm for the pin or what My print is a bit larger, was thinking of using 3mm dowel + 3.2mm holes, since I can't really hammer the doweling in
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Sep 12, 2021 08:25
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Hamburlgar posted:For those looking to dip your toes or buy a 2nd machine, you can currently find the Ender 3 V2 for $237 on Amazon on one of their limited deals. Looking forward to the post in about three months when the DEA kicks in your door with a warrant looking for an illegal grow operation, only to find a questionably legal Warhammer20k figurine print farm instead NewFatMike posted:These are generally designed for achieving a running fit on reamed holes, but get you some metric undersized dowel pins. They come in handy a lot more often than you might think. holy poo poo, mcmaster-carr really does sell everything, don't they Is there a magic commercial account that I can sign up for you get a discount, or are they just wildly expensive because "you get what you pay for and we're an aerospace supplier"
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Sep 12, 2021 22:37
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NofrikinfuN posted:I've been looking at doing some 3D printing lately and... I think it's a matter of personal taste. I find the "mini" models extremely limiting for what you're paying. If all you want to do is figurines and other single-handed items, that's fine. Some people want to only do figurines, other people (me) want to print great big things, and would rather print it in 6 pieces sliced along one axis (Y), rather than print it in 32 pieces, sliced along all three axes (X,Y,Z) I wish the build area of the Ender was 300x300x300, you could print whole-head helmets in one piece. With the 225x225x250 of the ender 3 you can do a facemask, but helmets need to be printed in sections. Ender Extender kits exist (400x400x400, I think) but upgrading your ender costs as much as the whole base unit Again, if you don't want to print anything human-sized, or something that needs to be printed that might be used with two hands, a mini is fine
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Sep 13, 2021 23:46
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The Eyes Have It posted:It's just that 3D printers aren't at the point of being "just works" appliances like toasters (or even inkjet or laser printers, for that matter). I feel like we're getting pretty close, personally. We're getting better than laser printer resolution in three directions; there's going to be a lower limit on competency on using and maintaining a precision device like this. Like, with an IQ of 90 you can probably get away with owning and operating a dot matrix printer... I would not expect that same person to own and operate a 3D printer without significant difficulty and maybe even liberal use of the help line
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Sep 14, 2021 01:37
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becoming posted:The Prusa XL is going to be a 400x400x400 CoreXY and they're targeting 1200-1500 USD/EUR. Been a while since there's been any news on that, but I think it's safe to say that it will be significantly more expensive than the MK3S+ but still reasonably competitive. I think the MK3S is outrageously priced in 2021* with it's meager 210x210 build plate, but I'd gladly pay $1200 for a 400x400x400 prusa. At that size you can start printing chairs and stepstools for kids up to about 10 years old (standard adult chairs are about 457mm (18"), an economy airline seat is 431mm (17")_). There are a lot of things you can print once you start getting up to the 15x15x15" volume range *current ender 3 v2 owner speaking (225x225 build plate, and 235x235 if you're brave enough)
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Sep 14, 2021 08:07
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:My ender 3v2 is a failure factory and I've finally had it. Junking this POS for parts and saving up for a prusa. Genuinely curious, how many hours did you get out of it before you gave up I've had mine since April, I'd guess I have 20 hr/week print time on it, so that comes out to about 400 hours total print time. About 1 in 3 prints I need to restart due to bed adhesion within the first 90 seconds but otherwise, printing PLA at least, seems to be working fine for me. I'm curious if I start running into reliability problems at the 1000 hour mark, although my guess is that the servos are rated for 8000-10,000 hrs
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Sep 14, 2021 23:51
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I'm tempted to jump into the resin pool After reading countless posts in this threads about gloves, contact dermatitis, ratio of alcohol wash to resin goo etc, holy gently caress what a nightmare. At least if my toddler pulls over the FDM printer all I need to worry about is blunt trauma. What is even the correct procdure for hosing down a toddler covered in  goo
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Sep 19, 2021 06:26
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 00:22 |
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Take a look at what's already out there, Chevy tends to reuse a lot of parts, you might be able to take inspiration from others before you https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-chevrolet-traverse-key-fob-case-87662 There's a Facebook group called, uh I'm not sure exactly how they bleep it, but basically is "gently caress it, I'll just print it" and seems like every other day someone is posting the print of their keyfob replacement After much gnashing of teeth I've finally picked up fusion 360 and so far I don't hate it, particularly for curved stuff
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Sep 20, 2021 01:39
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