|
Cool Dad posted:What is that thing? Trimming tool, super handy if you have a hole of a certain diameter but your first layer or two are too fat https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33054221838.html
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2021 08:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 09:36 |
|
|
Looks like some of those back segments detached from the build surface? e: oh god, responding to the rainbow slug photos from last page
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2022 23:56
|
|
|
Mindless posted:Anything I should try or be thinking about? - The sample filament sucks - You could be too far away from the bed if the print is detaching - Prusa slicer's ender 3 v2 profile works great on my voxelab aquila (non-x2) with standard PLA profile (the temps in the profile Just Work)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2022 22:34
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Question for anyone who has done the Lack enclosure: people on the Ender 3 subreddit are ballparking 40 hours of printing for the parts, but I loaded one of the four risers (there's another set of four as well, plus plenty of other parts) and Cura told me 9 hours at 20% infill for just the one. Am I missing something? Since most of the pieces are structural I'm not keen on reducing infill much more than that. Layer thickness (layer height?) affects print time drastically. Thicker layers -> less layers -> less print time. My prusa slicer is showing 0.20mm as "normal", 0.16mm as "optimal" and 0.12mm as "detail". 0.24 "DRAFT" is probably good enough for enclosure parts. Don't know what this setting is called in Cura.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2022 06:09
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:The part moved on the bed. That's the only way I can think of to get a big sideways shift on one side and none on the other. It does look like the part detached and twisted on the bed since the layer shift isn't on one axis. Could try a brim for better adhesion
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2022 08:27
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I’m getting the urge to fix something that’s not broken again, what cooling duct should I print for an Ender 3 with stock fans? Is it even worthwhile for printing PLA & PETG? Satsana. Probably.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2022 16:47
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:Damage your offspring by showing them that they can print their own printer upgrades. Then show them tinkercad. Too much power draw on the pi maybe?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2022 05:30
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:Is there any thread lube or grease I can use on the nozzle threads and heatbreak threads that will facilitate easy on and off? Silver anti-seize probably
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
So uhhh my mk2.5s clone has been running a PINDA v2 without temperature calibration this whole timecode:
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2022 17:11
|
|
|
I finally got my first CoreXY working (a hypercube that only took me about 5 years to build). I used Tom's video to break out print/filament profiles in Prusa Slicer over to my generic printer, but now it basically prints like a prusa. Are there any guides for tuning prusaslicer for speed (ie. corexy bowden setup)?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2022 23:47
|
|
|
Light it on fire and if it smells like ABS it is ABS
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2022 17:23
|
|
|
Was surprisingly easy to make a custom LCD cover for my prusa mk3 clone I'm going to build (once aliexpress parts arrive)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2022 21:17
|
|
|
PrusaSlicer won't act as a print host like pronterface does. The installer for prusaslicer has usually included pronterface, though. Most people will set up octoprint / octopi to act as a print host instead of screwing around with SD cards full of gcode files. Prusaslicer has a button to send gcode to a plugged in SD card after slicing, or to send the gcode to an octoprint host after slicing (this is the "print host upload queue"). It won't act as a print host itself - a print host sits on the printer's usb/serial connection and drip feeds it the gcode file, this is what pronterface and octoprint do. e: if you've used slic3r already you should be comfortable with prusaslicer, it's a fork mewse fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Mar 24, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2022 17:47
|
|
|
I was describing PrusaSlicer for porktree who has an ender 3 FWIW TIA HTH
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2022 22:25
|
|
|
porktree posted:Thanks, I was going nuts looking for the setting to connect PrusaSlicer to the printer. I think it's unlikely your problem was being caused by the 8-bit board. There was a lot of testing by youtube guys before the 32-bit boards were commonplace and it was incredibly rare to exceed an 8-bit board's limits with a cartesian system (like your Ender), slightly more commonplace on a CoreXY or a delta. So I think you were seeing some cursed code-path in cura that was wrecking your prints, but the 32-bit board might be a nice upgrade regardless because if you get one with integrated trinamic stepper drivers it should quiet down your printer significantly.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2022 19:42
|
|
|
Long shot but can anyone identify these spool holders (seem like modified prusa "spool holdah") - photo is from prusament petg "chalky blue" page
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2022 22:08
|
|
|
Hell yeah thank you! Spent like 20 minutes browsing results for “spool holder” and it didn’t come up
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2022 01:37
|
|
|
Anyone have any insight on what the story is with LDO motors? When you google their parts it seems almost exclusively like 3rd string web shops that stock their stuff, they've got no official aliexpress vendor, it seems like prusa motors + LCD assemblies are made by LDO? Are they some traditional manufacturer that doesn't engage with 3D printing too much?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2022 20:17
|
|
|
Tiny Timbs posted:Any good printable duct upgrades for the Ender 3 v2 that use the stock parts? I’m having a hard time picking through all the variations on the model sites. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623647
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2022 17:30
|
|
|
JayzTwoCents loving sucks Here's his take on the BLM protests two years ago https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/1267598953358356480
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2022 21:29
|
|
|
cruft posted:Is there an HCH thread where I can ask for advice designing a physical part? Maybe woodworking? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2022 16:08
|
|
|
Does anyone want to read my way too long story of building a prusa mk3s+ clone by ordering individual parts
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2022 22:00
|
|
|
Since one of you asked for it: I recently built a prusa mk3s+ clone, but instead of buying a kit, like a normal person, I bought all the parts separately because I wanted a specific color combination for the frame + printed parts. It's taken me five years to finally build a mk3 after building a mk2 clone 6-7 years ago. This gave me the additional brain problem of wanting to use very high quality parts but avoiding official Prusa parts (because of cost I guess). Mentally I had categorized vendors from best quality to least: Prusa, Triangle Labs, Fysetc, Sealand/Blurolls. Prusa is Prusa, the other three are AliExpress vendors. - The colored frame was from Sealand on aliexpress. I've used a mk2.5s kit from them before and their products are cheap but not great quality. The frame had an option to bundle an affordable set of smooth rods. They had an affordable fastener kit for mk3 (non-s, non-s+) that I picked up, it included a lot of useful hardware including rubber feet, the bed mounting hardware+spacers, etc. Two things really upset me - there didn't seem to be enough m3x10 screws included in the fastener kit (I got away with subbing in m3x12 a bunch of times during the build) - but much worse, one of the smooth rods for the Y-axis had deep scratches in it. I didn't notice them until assembly when they caught my fingernail or something and I saw the rod was ruined. - Fysetc seem like they have their act together. I don't think any of their parts came in as unacceptable. Notably I ordered the motors, control board, and LCD from Fysetc and they all seemed comparable to the official Prusa parts. I steered clear of the heated bed from Fysetc because there was an aliexpress review claiming there were no traces on the bottom side of the heatbed, which wouldn't be great, so I spent the price premium to get a Triangle Labs bed. Fysetc have the new bed clips for the Y axis bearings that are mk3s+ spec. They have an affordable full kit that I think they are saying is mk3s+ spec, I think that kit would be a good base for a build with a few targeted swaps (heatbed). - Triangle Labs, I've ordered from before but I think it was when Tom Sanladerer was building his voron kit that he said Triangle Labs are a reputable vendor with quality products. They have a mk3s kit that is more expensive than Fysetc but is probably what I would advise people get if they want a problem-free kit, unfortunately the price is approaching an official Prusa kit. Any of the parts I knew needed to be high quality I ordered from Triangle Labs - heat bed, clone bondtech gears, power supply (only like $10 more than fysetc), gates belts.. and they didn't have cheap lm8uu bearings so I ordered igus bearings from them.. which I'm not happy with now, might discuss later. Came out of this project very impressed with Triangle Labs again, especially the extruder gears, I want to put them in my other printers now. - Prusa.. you can't build a mk3s+ without the superpinda, and you can't buy a clone of the superpinda. So I ordered a real superpinda from Prusa, but you can order the mk3 upgrade kit for $20 more than includes a ton of fasteners (notably all the fasteners I'd be missing with my full mk3 set from Sealand), a genuine filament sensor, the fan shroud printed in ASA, a 300g mini spool of black PETG to print the revised extruder parts(!!). I also ordered a satin sheet because I'd be paying for shipping anyway. After building the machine it failed the self-test - "check axis length X". Moving the extruder left to right, I could feel the tension increasing at both ends of travel, which was apparently triggering the virtual endstops early. I still haven't 100% fixed this yet but I got it past the test once and printing, and after a lot of part swapping I'm basically going to rebuild the x-axis with new printed parts and linear bearings rather than igus bearings. Speaking of igus bearings, I'm using the non-constrained bearings without the metal shell (RJ4JP01) and they're not great. They have play on the 8mm rods. The heated bed twists in place. I thought it would be ok because the bed has no play left-right (+x/-x), but the bed twists slightly every time the Y motor changes directions (hard to explain without making exaggerated hand gestures). I think I'm going to replace all the igus bearings with linear bearings, waiting for them to show up. Highlights: - SuperPINDA is amazing - Official Prusa satin sheet is amazing - Trianglelabs dual drive gears are amazing - Trianglelabs heatbed + other parts are high quality - Gates belts are *great* Middling: - Sensorless homing is interesting but doesn't seem to offer an advantage over endstops - The trinamic silent drivers are nice but seem louder on the prusa frame than my hypercube corexy - Colored frame and fastener kit from Sealand were acceptable - Fysetc parts (control board / LCD / etc) were acceptable Lowlights: - X axis binding was extremely frustrating - Scratched Y axis smooth rod from blurolls/sealand - The non-constrained Igus bearings aren't an improvement over linear bearings - Price for building piecemeal seems like a fool's game vs buying fysetc/triangle labs kit and targeted upgrades Conclusion: Did we learn anything? Maybe just buy a kit rather than being an idiot like me, but it's a hobby, do whatever. If anyone wants I have a BOM with links to all the parts I used that I can DM or email, I don't want to post it publicly. mewse fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Apr 20, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2022 22:27
|
|
|
Opinionated posted:About the x axis problem have you checked that there isn't anything sticking out that may trigger the endstop? Yeah.. technically there's no endstops but when I'm sliding the extruder carriage by hand I can feel the resistance increase at the ends. It travels the full extent on both sides without hitting stuff, just feels like tightening at the ends of travel. I got it to pass the self test by re-printing both X ends ("motor" and "idler"), and loosening the screws on the back of the extruder carriage - the screw for the cable post thing was pressing into the lower bearing of the X carriage which was contributing the the problem. Like. I've spent hours messing with it. Once I have linear bearings in hand (and superlube, and applicator) I'm going to tear the whole thing apart and replace all the printed parts constraining the X axis - both X ends, the X carriage, the X carriage "back cover", and hopefully everything will align so this problem is just not there anymore. One thing I did do was originally printed the X ends with 30% infill and 1 or 2 extra perimeters and I think it contributed to the problem by making them too rigid. But I also suspect the dimensions of the X carriage part are wrong because of my jank mk2.5s clone. quote:Also have you learned how to check the belt tension? It can run a check to tell you how tight the belts are: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-s_112380/ The latest printed parts have a m3x30 screw on the back of the x-motor part that can tension up the motor, I tried all variations of belt tension to fix the axis problem (like borderline too loose to borderline too tight) and unfortunately didn't fix the problem. quote:Also here's a nice easy upgrade: https://www.printables.com/model/62523-delta-p-fan-duct-v2-r2-for-mk3s-extruder Better fan duct and allows a much better view of the nozzle! That is really cool, I might get that hooked up eventually. With the longer ducts I suspect the fan might be quieter too. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 00:53
|
|
|
snail posted:I have tried Igus bearings before, of various types, and they're a pain in the arse to use on a machine without tight alignments. I found any time the parallel rails were out of alignment, it would result in sticking or resistance. And they didn't work with sensorless homing for me either, the force required to start them moving would trip up my TMCs. I never did find a value for the detection that worked properly. Even quality LM8UUs are dirt cheap, and easier to use. Ok, good to know I'm not the only one struggling with the igus. I have a bunch of linear bearings showing up tomorrow with a tube of superlube and I've already already printed the applicator. quote:I've heard this. I know a guy who swears by the Fysetc kits, and refuses to buy Prusa genuine anymore. He has a room full of both, and he insists the Fysetc units are more reliable and have fewer failures, and in some cases producing better prints. Anecdata for sure. Also very good to know! I don't know anyone who has built the kit and didn't trust the word of random youtubers. If the fysetc kit is good, kit + superpinda + satin sheet from Prusa would be a drat good mk3s+ for not much money.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 06:42
|
|
|
swampface posted:They're sending me a new trapezoidal nut and I ordered a handful more so hopefully that'll sort out my problem. It is so easy to bind up the Z axis with the current parts that missed steps could definitely part of the problem. I've managed to get it to complete the XYZ self calibration then be unable to move the Z axis up more than halfway immediately after. I hesitate to bring it up but it did look like from your videos that the lead screw is bent (it wavers against that line you put on the paper under it)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 17:17
|
|
|
mewse posted:Ok, good to know I'm not the only one struggling with the igus. I have a bunch of linear bearings showing up tomorrow with a tube of superlube and I've already already printed the applicator. Update I replaced the igus bushings with cheap LM8UU bearings from amazon, packed the bearings with grease, also replaced the printed parts that might constrain the X axis - all motion problems are gone. X axis breezes through the self test, heat bed doesn't twist slightly on Y direction change. It took a few hours to rebuild everything but it's very satisfying to have the machine running with no problems.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:I was looking up "meme prints" a month or two ago and came across this one: NSFW swole Pikachu. What support settings are people using for this
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2022 03:35
|
|
|
Anyone know of DIY cheap cartesian designs that use a single Z motor with integrated lead screw? I have a spare that I'd like to turn into something. Looking at the makergear micro right now but it's fairly constrained to its choice of control board, specific linear rail length, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2022 16:56
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I replaced the hot end on my Ender 3 (stock for stock) and printed off a Benchy afterwards to test. Most of it came out pretty good, but the chimney is all blobby. Any ideas? That's a pretty nice benchy but maybe there's something going on with your slicer settings with respect to retraction that is causing those blobs
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2022 01:36
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Is there a thread for woodworking CNC machines, or is anyone here familiar with current models? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2022 21:40
|
|
|
Tiny Timbs posted:idgi. What issues are you going to run into with an all metal hot end? Doesn’t it mainly just ditch a plastic sleeve on the inside? The bowden/PLA combo with all metal can cause sticking to the internal metal surfaces and clogging. Usually gets triggered with repeated retractions, like I printed an almost fine benchy but once it got to the 4 corners of the cabin it started showing signs of clogging with underextrusion. This wasn't with an ender, was with a hypercube I built with a bowden extruder and a titanium heatbreak, but it's the problem people run into with all metal and should be aware of.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2022 15:58
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:MakerBot have been the red headed stepchild of Stratasys pretty much the whole time I'm wondering if Stratasys moving to a minority stake of the new entity signals that they've had trouble wringing profit from the hobbyist market
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2022 21:51
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Interesting news in my email just now from Printed Solid. I hope this is a good move, they've already been working together for a pretty long time. That seems promising. I'm in Canada but if there's a Prusa factory in the states making kits + pre-assembled units, that seems like a boon for all of NA.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2022 20:57
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:That’s a really great feature. There are so many filament makers that there isn't consensus like back in the taiyo yuden days. eSun PLA+ is very good.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2022 04:16
|
|
|
cruft posted:I thought it was the de facto replacement. It almost is. The code behind thingiverse is so bad that prusa was like "might as well put up a model site" and it's significantly better from a reliability standpoint. Just missing the huge back catalog of uploads
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2022 18:21
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:So any thoughts on the Ender 3 v2? Obviously this depends on just how much of an open box it is and nothing major or important is missing. People advocate prusa machines because they "just work". Enders can be totally acceptable if you know what you're doing, and even really good with some strategic upgrades. Getting an open box Ender is masochistic: - Someone returned the machine. There is probably something wrong with it. - You are gambling that there is nothing wrong with it, and previous owner returned it for another reason. - Nobody restocking the "open box" machine runs test prints to see if there's something wrong with it.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2022 19:48
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:Can anybody recommend a mesh editing / nesting / slicer solution for commercial use? Something with a free trial period so we can kick the tires a little? I don't have much experience with this so someone else will probably have better suggestions, but I've usually heard about MeshMixer when it comes to editing provided STLs. It's usually better to get the fusion or STEP file and edit that rather than the mesh, not sure what input file type you are dealing with. I have used some software called "ideaMaker" to apply a texture to the outside surface of STL models, it might have the capability to do nesting / supports you are looking for. The UI is terrible.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2022 16:51
|
|
|
bird food bathtub posted:What is the best/easiest method or gadget that allows WiFi storage and access for a printer? If I try looking for a combination of the words WiFi and storage or something it's all $700 media servers and NAS arrays and stuff when all I want is some kind of storage I can write slices to over WiFi that is accessible by USB so the printer can pick it up. Raspberry pi / Octoprint / Octopi With pi's being so scarce you could maybe try out this thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHNZPRl8gzA
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2022 22:15
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 09:36 |
|
|
Serenade posted:Setting up Klipper on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v3.0, I want to make a big effort post about Klipper and how I shouldn't have waited so long, but I am stuck. Did Octoprint reset to thinking you have a 200x200 bed instead of 235x235
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2022 14:59
|
|
