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I added one extender to one of the downspout elbows and it seems to have fixed the basement problem for now. When they come out, I need to get the gutter guys to cut and make the elbow come out higher on another downspout because I need a little more clearance to get it farther away from the house, but that corner was dry in the most recent rain. They're taking their sweet time getting out. I assume since we paid them (mistake?) it's going to be a hassle to get them out here, but we haven't left a review yet so if I have to I can always leave them a one-star and they'll probably get out here. Turns out they offer all their customers the option of being entered into a gift card giveaway for leaving a 5-star review, lmao. No wonder their rating was so high. On the window front, I've decided to set aside a whole day when I have one to working on cleaning off the window frame because I think I need to be a little less cavalier about the interior dust situation. Did a little bit of work this morning out in the garage instead getting the glass ready.  The basic tools are glass cleaner, razor blades, and some gloves to help you keep from smudging the glass too much while you're working on it. You want some sort of soft surface to work on. I have this old carpet, Bob had cheap fake grass outdoor carpet. I think whatever is inexpensive and will cushion the glass is fine. For the smaller panes, this Method stuff we already had in the house worked fine. I need to add some additional lighting out in the garage though, there's a row in the center that's great when I'm working there, but this bench is against the wall and the lighting is a little too indirect for detail work. I ended up getting out my portable battery work light to add some light coming from the other direction. I basically worked on two panes at time, soaking the crud around the edges and then letting it sit for a little bit while I scraped the other side. It seems advisable to also leave glass cleaner as lubricant. I'm honestly not a pro at this, I can tell I scratched this glass up in the process of getting the crud off. Most of the glass is already scratched though, and a lot the scratches are around the perimeter and will end up being covered up with glazing putty. It's an old window, whatever. I went ahead and dry fit all the windows panes into the appropriate spot in the sash:  Dry fitting is important for a few reasons. Really loose windows without mortise pins may have fallen out of square over time, so when you square up and add mortise pins (which I didn't have to do here) the glass in the panes might not fit. It's also possible that the panes have been taken out and replaced in a non-optimal way. You can see I scratched out the mark for the glass on one of the bottom row panes and replaced it. I labelled it for an upper row pane, but it was a little too big. It fit, but there wasn't any leeway - you want a little bit of space between the edge of the glass and the side of the glazing bed. Edit: haha whoops I see that I dry fit one of the original bottom row windows in the wrong spot. Oh well they all fit. I need a couple of replacement panes. Most of the time I'll probably pay someone to cut it for me because I'm really ready to outsource some of this work. However, I've got the big pane from the bottom sash where a corner broke, and that's lot of glass that's in perfectly fine shape.  I need to clean this glass first, but the Method cleaner isn't cutting it, I'll have to go with something a little tougher here, I think. I need to go to the hardware store this afternoon and pick up a few things, not sure if I'll have time to do any more work today though. After I'm done cleaning, the next step is glass cutting. Here's hoping I don't injure myself.
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Jul 30, 2022 18:37
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Did a little more work today. I bought something called "Invisible Glass" at the hardware store and it seemed to work better than the other cleaner. Bob uses windshield wiper fluid but I don't want to deal with that tbh. Forgot to take a photo of the big pane cleaned up. Then I went and changed into some long pants and grabbed a dry erase marker from my office. I measured the openings of the small panes. Turns out the bottom panes are a foot tall, but the ones above them are 11 and 15/16" which explains why the panes didn't all fit. In any case, you want to back off the measurement of the opening by about an eight of an inch so have about a 16th on either side. I marked up the glass on either end, then held my long level down and scored the glass in one smooth motion using this deal: I didn't open the amazon package until this afternoon so I didn't realize that I didn't have any cutting oil until I was ready to cut and had maybe an hour before we had to head to a cookout. So I just put some spare 3-in-1 oil and it seemed to work fine. Did my first score, did the lift, drop, and break and...nothing. Tried a second time a little harder and got a beautiful clean break.  I've actually never cut glass before. Bob demonstrated it and a couple people got to try, but we didn't need to cut that many panes of glass so I never did it. So I'm pretty proud! I'm not the best at documenting, so I didn't photo the next piece of glass. The first cut was one tall pane of glass the width of small panes that I cut into two panes. I messed up the score the first time and have to move it a little bit. The piece is a little shorter than optimal should be ok. The second piece, there's less than an inch I need to trim off the top. I scored it just fine, but I can't figure out how to do the lift and drop method. Then I remember that we have a manual score and snap tool in the basement from when we put up a row of tiles in the kitchen to replace our rotted backsplash. So I go and get that, and it works beautifully.  So, anyway, I dry fit the two new panes in the window and it looks great:  The cuts where I made the score are actually cleaner than the edges of the panes currently in the window. I don't know how old they are, because none of them are wavy so clearly most of them have been replaced at some point. This went so well that I might actually just cut the big pane myself. I need to call the local glass shop and see how much a custom cut pane from them costs vs just buying a big enough piece of double-weight glass and cutting it. I labeled the panes afterward so I can take them out again. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do about painting the panes. I could do the inside once I put them in place, but I can't really reach the 2nd floor exterior that well. Once the panes are in and the glazing putty is in, you really shouldn't ever flip the window so gravity is pushing the glass against the glazing points and the putty. I could paint the outside part before I glaze it. I could also maybe find a big easel, which I've seen other people do as well. We never really got around to talking about painting other than the priming in our class. I'm thinking about maybe giving the outsides a coat out in the garage before I glaze the glass and put it in the sashes.
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Aug 1, 2022 03:19
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Saturday I did an inventory of the various tools I've managed to accumulate. Some are lifetime but most are the last couple years. Anyway, after I cleaned up the work space a little bit, I did some work: Not as beautiful as I might like, but the glazing bevels are at least as clean as the ones already in place in these windows. It'll do. I used Sarco Multiglaze Type M:  It's somewhere in the range of 1.5-3x as expensive after shipping as a bucket of DAP 33 depending on where you buy it, but just about everyone who takes old windows seriously swears by it. Like, in the details they tend to disagree on exactly what the "best" thing is, like the best primer or the best paint, or whether you should paint the top of the bottom sash or the bottom of the top sash, how you should apply the glazing putty. But Sarco Multiglaze is the bread and butter stuff. You can use Sarco Dual if you need to reglaze in place, and I think there are other specialty formulas. But if you're reglazing in a shop context, Sarco Multiglaze is it. If you happen to live near one of their distributions it might be worth seeing if you can walk in to pick it up: https://www.sarcoputty.com/where-to-buy. I bought a gallon of this stuff a year ago. Don't do that. It had a weird skin on top that I had to pick off. If you're only doing one window at a time probably buy a quart at a time, when you need it. Buying gallons over long periods will probably not save you much due to dried-out putty. I learned a few things. First, be careful of priming near the edges the glazing rabets/glazing beds. I got a little buildup there that I had to sand down. If you have a sash like my bottom sash, be careful of where primer gets into this groove:  It's nearly exactly as thick as a pane of double-strength glass, so there really isn't a lot of room for you to gunk it up with primer. Second, always dry fit the glass. I'm glad that I remembered to do it with the big pane, it would have been a mess if I'd already put a bunch of putty in and couldn't fit the glass. Surprising note about the glass: nobody in a close drive sells double-strength glass by the sheet. A bunch of places will cut double strength glass. Nobody has the sort of standard sizes that single-strength comes in. There's a hardware store about a 20 minute drive away that maybe sells double strength glass, but it's not any cheaper than getting the local reputable window glass place to cut it. Maybe if I had a bunch of small panes I needed to cut. I do need to remember to measure it next time - it was about 1/16" shy of my requested measurement on one side. That's probably OK but 1/8" might get me in trouble. I regretted taking the wood rails off this window because I ended up scraping it all over my workbench and getting putty all over the other side. Gross. After I finished this window I went in for a drink of water and a sit. But then I decided to power through and finish up the top sash with the eight panes! I took some videos this time. They are marginal, sorry. In several cases I hold up something to the camera, but I hold it above the camera's view. Or I block some of the action with my offhand. etc. The autofocus is constantly going nuts, maybe I needed to manually set the depth of focus or something. Also I talked in some of these. With the paint removal ones I didn't think talking made sense since I was wearing a half face respirator. Anyway, here's a video of me bedding in a piece of glass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYENMctrfs The goal is to create a nice little bed of the glazing putty to seal the window up on both sides. You fill up the glazing rabet with putty, set the pane in, and then push in firmly. Halfway through doing this, I remembered to do the trick that Bob taught us which is to wrap a quarter-sheet oscillating sander in a clean rag and run it around the edges of the glass. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYtCuGskTS0 It'll really help bed the glass down into the glazing and get it into place. After you bed the glass in, you want to put in glazing points. I have a glazing point gun, which I use in the following video. You can see my fat gut in the video, and I hate it. Perhaps I should lose some weight? Maybe i'll just simmer in mild body shame instead: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVkI1xvCsWY I actually bought two sizes of points in boxes of 5000. I used the bigger points initially but they stuck out past the end of the glazing rabets, which you don't want. I think I need to adjust the tension on the spring or something. Even after I switched to the smaller points, they didn't always reliably get as far as I'd like into the wood. After the glazing points are in, you'll need to clean up some glazing putty from the other side the glass. At this point you need to be careful. These small panes are probably light enough that the glazing points can hold them in upside down, but the big panes of glass are heavy and they will crack and break or just rip themselves out of the window if you hold them upside down. Basically, try not to take the sash past vertical at this point. Once you're cleaned up, it's time to get to the meat and potatoes of the glazing process. This is the point where a lot of people make a long rolled up "snake" of the glazing putty and rest it against the glass. I did not do that. Bob told us it was "wrong" which is silly. One of his apprentices confided in us that he sometimes does the snake method when Bob's not around. I just didn't like it because I found the snakes kind of fell apart. So I just kept kind of shoving it in with my thumb, and then smoothing it out. I use an angled putty knife because that's what Bob said to use.  At least one of the YouTube guys I was watching recently appeared to use a straight knife? I dunno. This worked OK. I found it way easier to drag the knife towards me than push it away. Hard to say why. The "correct" way as I recall is that you start at one of the corners, and hold the knife at a 45 degree angle in the corner and then drag it at an angle. That way the bottom of the knife against the glass is farther away from the corner you start at than the top edge. I only remembered to do this some of the time. Truly beautiful glazing putty bevels end just inside the glazing rabet so that when the glazing putty is outside and you look out through the window from the inside, you can't see any of the putty. My glazing does not do that, because of issues I was having with the points, but I think it'll still look better than most of the windows in the house. Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHCen_Si4RI Finally, at the end of things you want to use some sort of whiting powder to clean things up. Essentially, it's some sort of desiccant powder that soaks up the oil and helps get the glazing marks off of the glass. You just put some powder on the glass and brush it with a cheap chip brush. I used pumice powder as suggested by Bob, but I think there's something called window whiting which is just calcium carbonate, and other people I think just use drywall powder. The powder stick to the greasy fingerprints and smears you make and as you brush it, they will just kind of disappear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8hTvV2VoiE So, here's the finished window.  Well, 7/8 finished. I'm not sure how easy it is to tell, but one of the panes broke. It happened while I was putting in the glazing points. I'm not sure exactly why, it didn't happen when I was pulling the trigger. I looked away, I think to stop the video I took, and I looked back and the pane was broken. I channeled Bob and rested it over my giant plastic trash can and used a hammer to smash it out and then I pulled out the glazing points. Sometime this week I'll take out my spare glass and cut one more pane and put it in. I'm just pleased that it wasn't one of the nice clean panes that I cut that broke, it was some piece of poo poo glass that some moron before me cut. I still have all my window jamb (the frame) work to do. I was going to rent a set of ZipWall posts to try out for dust control but Sunbelt doesn't tell you availability until after you try and set up a rental so my weekend plan got busted. I'll probably just try taping the plastic up. I also still need to strip & paint all the old trim and then cut some new parting stops. I might go buy some clear pine or something for that, construction lumber is just wet & bendy. Even so, it feels like I might actually get this window done! Danhenge fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 03:49
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Wrapped up my glazing tonight. I poked around at my phone's camera yesterday after I saw how the phone kept trying to adjust the depth of focus as my hand moved around and found that in "pro video" mode I could set a manual depth of focus. I took one video of me making a mild mistake while cutting glass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RkVAhL249o Not so bad! It's maybe not the crispest but at least it doesn't keep blurring in and out constantly. By the way, the bit I do at the end where I do a bunch of extra scoring? I think you're never supposed to do that. I ended up making the exact same mistake when I cut the height. Haha yikes. My glass cutting experience went so beautifully last time that I got cocky I guess. I left kind of a gross score mark on one corner that I think is mostly covered up by putty.  And when I dry fit it into the sash, it was acceptable if not beautiful.  A little bit of putty work, and everything is glazed.  Miracle of miracles, after I did that little bit of work I decided to clean up the shop a little bit so I wouldn't have to totally dig myself out of a mess next time I walk in. Future me will thank tonight me, I assume. I also put about a little over an inch of water over top the putty in the bucket. Supposedly that slows down the oxidation and formation of a crust over the putty. We'll see if I can use any of what's left in this bucket in 2023 or whenever I next gently caress with a window! I also need to get myself a metal rag bucket. There's BLO in the putty, so every rag I used i just left flat on the concrete floor to avoid any fire from bits of BLO curing.
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Aug 17, 2022 03:30
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I'm probably not going to take any more videos unless they're really specific to what's going on with me. Lately I've been watching this guy's videos a lot: https://www.youtube.com/c/WoodWindowMakeover He's a little bit dramatic and kind of self-aggrandizing, but there's useful stuff in a lot of his videos. He's not a particularly good teacher and can ramble, but sometimes there are gems where this guy just glazes a couple windows beautifully. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDDemR6OeGs He's not a great teacher and his videos are kind of stream of consciousness, but if you want to just watch videos about a guy thinking & talking about fixing windows it's not too bad. I've done some work on the windows this weekend. Everything takes so long, I had big visions about finishing everything up this weekend, probably 1-2 more weekends realistically. Doesn't help that I'm really slow to get started. Yesterday I primed the window jambs. Today I dimensioned some lumber for replacing the parting bead I broke literally a year or more ago. It took a long time to sneak up on the right dimensions and sand paint that I hope didn't have any lead in it out of the parting bead grooves.   I honestly still messed up. The bottom of the side pieces of parting groove have a slight bevel at the bottom that matches the slope of the sill. I cut it in the wrong orientation originally and didn't realize until after I'd cut the first one to length. It ended up a little short. I might just leave a gap at the bottom??? I don't know. I don't want to make another parting bead, this took forever to plane down and sneak up on the right depth and then get cut to the correct length. Made harder by the fact that this is at the top of the stairs and my miter saw was in the backyard so I kept having to run up and down to fix the cuts. Next time I have to do this I'll make sure to have enough wood for n+1 parting beads. Then I made an easel for window painting out of screwed and clamped boards:  I get the impression that a lot of window people do all their work on easels. Tomorrow is a lot of priming (just the parting bead) and painting (everything else). Hopefully by the end of the weekend I can have the first coating of paint on the exterior of both windows and maybe have starting painting the parting bead. I need to at least paint the outside before it's in the window. I can't really get the exterior-facing part after it's in the window because it's on the second floor. I could in theory paint the inside part in pieces once it's in, and I might. We'll see!
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Sep 5, 2022 01:35
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It's a been a few weeks, so where are we at? We're here: Well, why is this a big deal? In this photo the top sash is the bottom one and the bottom sash is the top one. Two fully mobile sashes! So, we're all done, yeah? Hm, well, let's see if we can close the window all the way?  Doesn't seem to be closing all the way...  Ah. gently caress. A knot in the top sash came loose just as I finished putting everything together. In order to fix it, I need to take out the stop bead, unscrew the metal weatherstripping on the right side, take out the bottom sash, take out the right side parting bead, then put the knot back in and this time actually secure it to the sash instead of saying to myself "man this feels like a tight fit, I bet I can just stick the knot in and it'll be fine." Not happening tonight. It's still technically an improvement I think. Oh, also, I discovered that the bottom pulls on a ton of these windows are all too big (too tall) to let the bottom sash close all the way which is probably a big reason why a bunch of them don't latch completely, in addition to having top sashes that are painted shut without being fully closed. How did we get here? Well, since then I did a shitload of painting that I didn't document much of because frankly it wasn't that interesting.:  My loving paint lines suck rear end because the glazing points didn't go in far enough so I had to glaze beyond the glazing bed.  Sigh. It's at least as good as the rest of the windows in the house so it's not like it sticks out as being worse but I wanted it to be better. I will say that the paint job looks way better than most of the windows in the house. I paid out the nose for the Sherwin Williams Urethane Enamel and that paint makes my lovely painting skills look gorgeous. Two coats is a revelation. I have no idea if you can tell in these photos:   I decided to go ahead and get the jamb weather stripping for the windows. Bob taught us to use a rubber bead at the top, bottom, and on the meeting rail of the windows (where the two sashes touch) but I can't figure out where to buy the thing he was using there so I'm skipping that for the time being. I set up my router and tested the router bit I got for cutting the grooves:   Looks pretty good! Unfortunately when I went to cut the top sash, the meeting rail of the window got in the way the grooves, which I didn't really account for...  I did a bunch of poo poo with chisels and hand saws and some other router bits that I bought to try and work this out, which I mostly did. This is one of the better looking one:  I frankly butchered one side of the top sash because I tried a different orientation to fix the issue and forgot that need to switch directions with the router so I was doing a climb cut and I kept losing control and having to stop. Didn't hurt anyone but the sash. Next I needed to drill 1/2" holes in the stop bead. Well, I didn't take any photos or videos of that, and I also didn't strip the stop beads which meant that there might be lead paint on them. I decided to just set up a weird vacuum jig that I drilled all the holes in. Random piece of wood is there to help protect the tabletop from getting drilled into. Fiance came in while I was working on test fitting the top sash:  Here I was pointing out the lovely knot on the right side that was catching on the jambs. The knot I replaced it with turned out to be differently lovely. Oops.  Here you can see how I secured the weather-stripping. I cut out a space around the pulleys and pre-drilled holes for wood screws. The directions for this stuff tells you to use a million tiny nails but Bob had us put screws to make it easier to take in and out as necessary, which, thank god since I did that twice already and will have to do it a third time to fix the top sash. Here's a couple shots of the stop bead adjusters  Basically once it gets cold I can push the stop bead farther in and it'll tighten everything up to maximize weather tightness. Obviously the trim on the stop bead looks like poo poo, but I'm done for now. I'm getting married in four weeks and I have other poo poo to attend to, like the deck I dismantled last weekend and the small gravel patio we are in theory going to put down before there. I feel pretty ok about the whole thing, even if it's not as beautiful as it could be.
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Sep 26, 2022 00:12
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I got married last weekend. One of our neighbors does mainly painting but also like outdoor trim work and is semi-retired finally got around to us after we chatted with him over the summer. He charges like next to nothing, has all the word of mouth work he needs, and we got a ton of rain in the last few months so it took a while to get to us. He took down our old shutters that are falling apart while he was attending to the siding. I wasn't sure if the shutters were original, but after today I'm pretty sure they are. Anyway here's what they all look like:  You can see that the paint doesn't look so hot, and there's some spots where the underlying wood also looks gnarly. I realized I didn't have a picture of it but there's one where the tenons on the bottom rail have basically straight rotted off and whatever gunk somebody used to try and hold it together finally disintegrated. Glad we got it off, because they rattle in the wind and as soon as I started to investigate the thing it started fall apart even more, and the window they came off is the second floor window directly over both compressors. I'll probably need to cut an entirely new bottom rail at minimum. Anyway because you can see the shutters from the street my  She held the speedheater and I used the scraper and we got started making paint shavings. Based on the colors of the paint on these shutters compared to what was on the windows, it seems likely that they are original to the house.  We got a little bit of paint out of the inside of the half moon and it became clear that it's solid wood, about 3/8" thick which I think lends credence to the idea that they're pretty old since newer construction would presumably use plywood. We got about 90% of the way through the bulk removal of old paint. The long edge where this shutter meets its mate still needs to be cleaned off. I also assessed the damage. The bottom panel is split and rotted:  We were wearing respirators this whole time, I think I might have been about to flip the thing over? Anyway I think I'll probably treat any soft bits with the woodepox and then stuff that full of the wood putty and sand it smooth. Also the stile on side is super rotted out, although the tenon looks ok:   I don't want to just junk the shutter, especially since they're original and where the wood is still good it's actually some really pretty wood, maybe old growth SYP or Cedar? I know that shutters are mostly made of cedar these days but I don't know if they used it in 1930 as well. I think I might need to attempt a dutchman repair. The other issue is that I'm a little surprised by the shutter construction. Somebody clearly thought a little bit about making them functional, because the bottom edge has the subtle 13 degree bevel that the window does and therefore can close all the way. But the top of the bottom stile and the middle stile are just flat, and it's clear the top edge has rotted from the accumulation of standing water over the years. I kind of want to add a 13 degree bevel to both of those so they can't accumulate moisture in the same way, but I don't really know if that's possible without disassembling the shutters entirely. This first shutter took most of the afternoon but I think we can get faster at it. I think the second face of the shutter took half the time of the first. Also by the end of it I might be able to convince her to let me get the full-sized speedheater in addition to the cobra 
Danhenge fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Oct 30, 2022 |
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Oct 30, 2022 00:53
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Kind of a frustrating day in shutter land. I still forgot to take a photo of the worst one. It started off OK - I used the proscraper to clean more of the bottom layer of paint off. The speedheater is great for getting off multiple layers of old gunky latex, but the really dried out stuff at the bottom comes off way better to a carbide. Then I started trying to figure out what was going on with the bottom rail and its tenons. It seemed like it should come apart. There were the big holes in the post above but they seemed empty, and there were no matching pin holes in other side so I started to try and gently pull the thing apart with a block of wood and some gentle hammer taps. It was very, very resistant but I kept at it, trying to be careful until...  poo poo. So the way this frame works is that the stiles have a dado along the side and deeper mortises for the rails. Some monster decided to pin the mortises in the bottom rail using 4d nails that they snipped the head off of, and then fill the hole with caulk, or something? Awful. The worst part is the pin doesn't go all the way through so there's not a great way to realize they're there or get the pins out without going digging! I'm so pissed at whoever did this. Even worse, at some point somebody went along and pinned all the other mortises too! It looks like maybe they at least used snipped stainless trim nails which is an improvement, except that like the bottom rail they didn't send the pin all the way through to the other side of the stile. Given that I don't want to do more surgery to this wood, I'm going to triage. I went ahead and glued up that stile as best I could and clamped it to get it as square as possible.  I plan to go back later and reinforce the water damaged wood with some stabilizing epoxy and epoxy putty. Still, super loving irritating! While the glue set up, wife and I went ahead and started cleaning off the next rail shutter. This one is from the same pair, so the bottom rail is also turbo hosed, this one has more wood filler and caulk, and whoever did the rusty nail tenon pinning on that other shutter did it to this one too. Not so surprising, given that it's the mating shutter.   I got the nail out on this side, I got some needle nosed pliers in there as gingerly as I could and pulled it out. gently caress, I'm still so mad about this. While we were working on the second shutter, we both paused to gaze back at the first one and realized that the bottom rail had been replace at some point. I think maybe the original shutters are all cedar and they maybe used SYP for that replacement rail? The shutters are very, very light and there aren't any visible knots in the wood.  The paint obscures the character but here's what it looks like close up: 
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Oct 30, 2022 23:03
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Your glazing looks great. One day I’m gonna have to make some windows and try it. Looking more at all the shutter pictures, I definitely think they are cypress. Get your old carpenter neighbour to look though-he may have a better idea what got used locally and seeing it in person makes a big difference.
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Oct 31, 2022 15:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Your glazing looks great. One day I’m gonna have to make some windows and try it. Looking more at all the shutter pictures, I definitely think they are cypress. Get your old carpenter neighbour to look though-he may have a better idea what got used locally and seeing it in person makes a big difference. Thanks! The only downside of that paint is that it really emphasized any un-smooth areas in my glazing. But I'm actually looking forward to trying my next window, sometime next Spring when it starts to warm up again. I'm never starting a window in August ever again, unless I get to the point where I can manage a window in no more than a month.
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Oct 31, 2022 16:07
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