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builds character posted:One exciting new development. I started the van when it was ~15F out just to see how the diesel would do. I used a trick I read about on the internet - turn the key to on until the glow plug light goes off, then repeat twice more without starting the van. Then start. It worked great and the van started up easily. This works pretty consistently in my experience with various older diesel vans.
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Jan 18, 2022 15:50
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CaptainTofu posted:This works pretty consistently in my experience with various older diesel vans. I too do this with old cranky diesels. Double-glow it, pedal to the floor if below 0C, release pedal as soon it starts lighting off. No real need to punch the pedal if its electronic. belt: probably old belt/cheap rubber compound related.
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Jan 18, 2022 16:18
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builds character posted:1. The savana inspection and registration expire at the end of January. Anyone want a rusty savana with a maybe blown head gasket? Price is: you pick it up. It’s AWD and that works well. So like - I really don't need any more projects, but if this is for real I may be interested. The HG job doesn't look to be *that* bad, and is something I want to learn anyway. Plus, this would make a great winter wagon / backup to have handy if the minivan kicks it. I'm in Long Island, so I could (maybe) drive it home even. why no, I'm not talking myself into taking on another project, why do you ask  If you were serious about getting rid of it, send deets to eharding at the google email thing?
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Jan 18, 2022 22:42
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cursedshitbox posted:I too do this with old cranky diesels. Double glow is always a good bet, I have had alternator belts squeal after doing this because of the drain of glowing then starting.
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Jan 18, 2022 23:12
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cursedshitbox posted:I too do this with old cranky diesels. Yeah, that makes sense. It's never happened before or since, and I have receipts from the PO who had it replaced two years ago but based on the "full brake job" I also have receipts for... CaptainTofu posted:This works pretty consistently in my experience with various older diesel vans. Does it not work on newer ones? meltie posted:Yeah, this was a pretty normal trick on older 90s euro diesels, get the glow plugs nice and warm on a chilly winters' day. Makes sense. I'll take a look. CommieGIR posted:Double glow is always a good bet, I have had alternator belts squeal after doing this because of the drain of glowing then starting. TRIPLE GLOW! (yesterday though, single glow worked just fine in ~28F so I'm going to try single glow once when it gets really cold again and see what happens - I really like having a sense of what things will do and I watched the video of Bajaha's cold start from here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3830037&pagenumber=20&perpage=40#post520640964 and really don't want to deal with that with a ever so slightly older vehicle) Black88GTA posted:So like - I really don't need any more projects, but if this is for real I may be interested. The HG job doesn't look to be *that* bad, and is something I want to learn anyway. Plus, this would make a great winter wagon / backup to have handy if the minivan kicks it. I'm in Long Island, so I could (maybe) drive it home even. why no, I'm not talking myself into taking on another project, why do you ask 100% serious. email sent after I post this. I am giving it away (soon but you have to wait like one more week so I can finish the inside of the t1n enough to put the bikes inside!) or sending it to the wrecker and if you don't want it I'll post on a motovan fb group seeing if anyone wants I just call someone to haul it away e: email sent. builds character fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jan 19, 2022 |
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Jan 19, 2022 01:19
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builds character posted:Does it not work on newer ones? I've never owned a diesel newer than my 2004 Renault Master so I've no idea to be fair.
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Jan 19, 2022 14:47
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builds character posted:Does it not work on newer ones? My newer Euro Transit diesel doesn't have a glow lamp indicator, and it doesn't wait on start up. Turn the key and it goes immediately. The startup is monitored and managed by the computer, the key doesn't directly switch the glow plug or starter. It's so quick I reckon it's heating up the fuel through a preheating block or something, rather than a separate glow plug in the head. Starts up just like a petrol car. It's seamless, i've never had to think about it. meltie fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jan 19, 2022 |
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Jan 19, 2022 14:58
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CaptainTofu posted:I've never owned a diesel newer than my 2004 Renault Master so I've no idea to be fair. Makes my '05 van feel basically brand new! meltie posted:My newer Euro Transit diesel doesn't have a glow lamp indicator, and it doesn't wait on start up. Turn the key and it goes immediately. I rented a diesel car once and this was how it worked but I didn't think about it at the time as it was nice and warm. Thanks for this rabbit hole. It turned out to be pretty short actually... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug#Pre-heating Apparently in modern cars they just turn on when you unlock the doors. I also didn't know that the thermostat glow plug was a thing either. I guess on heavy machinery maybe? wikipedia posted:Pre-heating
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Jan 19, 2022 16:20
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Inspection passed with flying colors! Interestingly, this is what the diesel emissions test looks like. “Is your van rolling coal? No? Ok.”  Also, looking at figuring out how to cut sheets of plywood for the walls and holy poo poo plywood is so expensive. Anyone have thoughts on minimum thickness for the wall separating front and back to stop me from getting wrecked in the back of my head by a flying toolbox in a crash? 3/4" seems super sturdy but if the toolbox is going 50 mph? Don't want to overthink it but maybe two 1/4" or 1/2" pieces sandwiched with some sound deadening and a piece of metal (16 gauge steel is what's used for partitions but that seems like overkill if there's also plywood) in between? Am I being crazy about this. I've never seen anyone else do it but folks who build motovans are also the folks who are like "yeah, when I was little we'd go to races in the back of a pickup working on the bike as we went so I just duct taped this bed down and my buddies all ride in it without seatbelts."
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Jan 22, 2022 00:01
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I built shelves for my sprinter with 1/2” and 3/4” ply, but I bought a steel Weatherguard bulkhead because gently caress no do I want my tools splatting me.
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Jan 22, 2022 00:38
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Cheap, 3/4" CDX plywood, sanded and finished is all I could see you needing. If you're getting a toolbox through that, you have bigger problems. https://www.homedepot.com/p/23-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Fir-Sheathing-Plywood-Actual-0-688-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-439614/100034683 the spyder fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jan 22, 2022 |
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Jan 22, 2022 01:59
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I used 12mm (1/2 inch) ply with a couple of vertical batons to hold everything together and if anything has the force required to come through it then I'm already dead from the crash anyway. I'd think 3/4 inch ply will easily do the job.
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Jan 22, 2022 10:50
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What if you 'doubled up' the plywood with some kind of plexiglass? Other bonus would be that you could leave a 'window' in the plywood and have a bit more light in the back.
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Jan 22, 2022 14:52
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First, thanks everyone for the sanity check. I might do 3/4 with 5mm so it looks pretty and I can sandwich some sound deadening. Step one is putting up the wall so I can move the bikes in so I'll have time to think about it. Captain McAllister posted:What if you 'doubled up' the plywood with some kind of plexiglass? I like the idea a lot but hello project creep as I'd also need something to cover it up so folks passing by don't see the bikes in the back. I also saw someone who put a plexiglass moonroof on their t1n that looks awesome.
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Jan 22, 2022 17:37
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builds character posted:Anyone have thoughts on minimum thickness for the wall separating front and back to stop me from getting wrecked in the back of my head by a flying toolbox in a crash? 3/4" seems super sturdy but if the toolbox is going 50 mph? Don't want to overthink it but maybe two 1/4" or 1/2" pieces sandwiched with some sound deadening and a piece of metal (16 gauge steel is what's used for partitions but that seems like overkill if there's also plywood) in between? Am I being crazy about this. I've never seen anyone else do it but folks who build motovans are also the folks who are like "yeah, when I was little we'd go to races in the back of a pickup working on the bike as we went so I just duct taped this bed down and my buddies all ride in it without seatbelts." If you're seriously worried about tools coming forwards during a crash, you'll need a metal bulkhead really.
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Jan 22, 2022 17:49
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builds character posted:First, thanks everyone for the sanity check. I might do 3/4 with 5mm so it looks pretty and I can sandwich some sound deadening. Step one is putting up the wall so I can move the bikes in so I'll have time to think about it. Do not watch Soup Classic motoring and what he did to his Mercedes van or project creep will really set in! What are you planning for securing everything down? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jan 23, 2022 |
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Jan 23, 2022 08:50
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool thread! I like these "roadside" projects. I was shouting at the Soup van last night! two-piece rain scuttle sandwich known for rusting out... epoxy paint as prep... but grind off patches down to bare metal as lands for spot-welds... they're gonna scab out by next winter! Use weld-thru primer here! That's what it's for!!!! meltie fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jan 23, 2022 |
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Jan 23, 2022 13:44
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meltie posted:I was shouting at the Soup van last night! two-piece rain scuttle sandwich known for rusting out... epoxy paint as prep... but grind off patches down to bare metal as lands for spot-welds... they're gonna scab out by next winter! Use weld-thru primer here! That's what it's for!!!! That's funny, I had the exact same reaction! Shame about all that work if (when) they rust again. I like the window pane idea though. Good way to get some light in without having people peak inside.
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Jan 23, 2022 14:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:That's funny, I had the exact same reaction! Shame about all that work if (when) they rust again. I like the window pane idea though. Good way to get some light in without having people peak inside. When  The range rover corner roof lights? Yeah, they're awesome!
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Jan 23, 2022 17:51
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meltie posted:If you're seriously worried about tools coming forwards during a crash, you'll need a metal bulkhead really. Why do you think this? Just that 3/4” plywood won’t be strong enough? I’m inclined to agree with the other folks who say it’s enough but I also don’t want to be dumb about safety and I feel like I’m bad at estimating force of things that might be flying through the air in a crash. MrOnBicycle posted:Cool thread! I like these "roadside" projects. Now I really want this.  Fortunately, I know that’s well out of my league. I’m going to have three bikes in the bike. One will have the front tire flush with the wall and tie downs going to the OEM tie down points/rings (I think). The other two I plan to put on little boxes on top of the wheels. On a dually there isn’t enough room between the two wheel wells to fit three bikes across the way there is in a single rear wheel. I’ll probably use a combination of tie down to rings and some kind of turnbuckle attached to the foot pegs. For everything else, I’m thinking maybe a tie down strap around anything big or heavy. Helmets will just hang on the wall.
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Jan 25, 2022 00:47
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builds character posted:Why do you think this? Just that 3/4” plywood won’t be strong enough? I’m inclined to agree with the other folks who say it’s enough but I also don’t want to be dumb about safety and I feel like I’m bad at estimating force of things that might be flying through the air in a crash. I just have images of tools becoming 50mph projectiles if you have a big head-on collision at speed, and i'm not sure that wood is enough to hold that back. You want the metal bulkhead I just took *out* of my Transit. I've got no experience here though!
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Jan 25, 2022 01:26
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Consider elastic nets you can hook over the helmets in transit, would be a shame to crack one of it drops off its hook going over a bump.
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Jan 25, 2022 07:05
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tinned owl posted:Consider elastic nets you can hook over the helmets in transit, would be a shame to crack one of it drops off its hook going over a bump. Simply wear the helmet while driving duh
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Jan 26, 2022 12:53
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I don’t doubt a piece of 3/4” plywood’s ability to stop a toolbox/motorcycle/whatever, but you will need to anchor it to the van somehow. So you don’t have a motorcycle and a sheet of 3/4” ply pressing into the back of your head. The metal bulkheads attach with dozens of fasteners to various reinforced parts of the van, would be difficult to replicate with wood and be able to call it any sort of cost/time savings.
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Jan 26, 2022 17:29
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Yeah in my experience that involves some creativity, vs as you say just bolting in a factory steel bulkhead.
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Jan 26, 2022 19:17
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If you wait long enough I’m sure people are tossing the bulkheads from delivery vans when converting to campers and they might be glad you just take it off their hands
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Jan 26, 2022 19:47
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OK, first off thank you all for making me realize I should not die. With special thanks to the tinned owl-BDW team for pointing out I should be wearing a helmet. This is definitely the real answer. I actually have a metal bulkhead that I will put back in. I had taken it out because it rattled like someone throwing a thousand tin cans full of rocks down a steep hill and I couldn't really screw stuff like helmet hangers onto it. But I've spent some time trying to reconcile "don't die" and "loud noise bad" with "need to put bike in van tomorrow" and the answer I've come up with is this. I'm going to put the bulkhead back in. I bought some outdoor carpet from HD and will spray it on for two reasons. First, the bulkhead has a bunch of see through spots and I don't want folks spying the bike in the back. And second, it will hopefully stop some of the rattle. I will also put some MVL on the bulkhead and order more MVL so I can completely cover it. Then I'll sandwich the bulkhead between two thin pieces of plywood (5mm or 1/4") and add some thinsulate between at least one layer and the bulkhead. Just planning to use a couple 1x4s and fix the plywood to those. That should let me 1. not die. 2. stop anyone from seeing the bikes in the back while I finish up. 3. make the front interior look nice long term. 4. let me hang helmets and stuff off the front wall of the garage. Maybe put some e track or l track on it, if I want to go nuts. The metal bulkhead was attached to the van with sheetmetal screws so I'm going to switch those over to plusnuts too because uh, yeah.
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Jan 26, 2022 20:11
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builds character posted:OK, first off thank you all for making me realize I should not die. With special thanks to the tinned owl-BDW team for pointing out I should be wearing a helmet. This is definitely the real answer. If it's rattling, the transit bulkhead I just took out had thick metal blocks bolted to it low down — I assume to dampen the booming. Perhaps you could do that?
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Jan 26, 2022 22:01
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meltie posted:If it's rattling, the transit bulkhead I just took out had thick metal blocks bolted to it low down — I assume to dampen the booming. Perhaps you could do that? It has a door in it. gently caress. Every time I post about this I feel like I’m digging a little deeper into the well. Don’t worry though, the door bolt is metal and pretty sturdy and I’m thinking sandwiched between plywood it won’t fly open to let tools Kramer me on the noggin in a crash.
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Jan 26, 2022 23:03
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Yeah even with a door it's still a cargo/driver separation bulkhead and with plywood on it it should help dampen the rattle and provide additional stopping power.
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Jan 26, 2022 23:07
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At least in my experience driving delivery vans, the rattling is pretty much always the door. Some felt things (the kind you put on cabinet doors, or on the bottom of furniture to make it easier to slide around on a hard surface) help; some thin foam weatherstripping on the latch side works too (if it's on the hinge side, it'll be difficult to close). With my current work van, I usually just fold up a piece of paper into a small square and jam it in at the bottom corner (latch side), that shuts it up until the next time I open it (and inevitably lose the paper). I keep saying I'll get something a little more permanent, but  ,  , and I'm working so many hours that I can barely keep track of what month it is...Also I wouldn't block it off completely - it's very nice to have a pass-through. Absolutely do something to block people from seeing in, but it could be something as simple as wood or even cardboard attached to the perforated sections, cut where the door opens.
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Jan 27, 2022 03:44
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STR posted:At least in my experience driving delivery vans, the rattling is pretty much always the door. Some felt things (the kind you put on cabinet doors, or on the bottom of furniture to make it easier to slide around on a hard surface) help; some thin foam weatherstripping on the latch side works too (if it's on the hinge side, it'll be difficult to close). Not to worry... I have a plan for that! The plan is a shitload of MVL. It is very nice to have a pass through. I've attached MVL to the perforated sections as you'll see but I'm still thinking about the door. I can make a nice flat wall across out of plywood covered in carpet and have it be all classy up front and then the back can be dirt bikes and disaster. But to include the door in that will be significantly more effort on all fronts. In particular, the big reason I'm leaning no door is that I don't want the front to smell like gasoline. The problem here, is that I've also decided I'm going to use bedrug's vanrug for the flooring. It's a foam with pretty indestructible carpet on it and it was $250 for 20 feet by 72". The van is 68.3" at the widest in the interior so I want to run a single large piece from the back all the way up to the very front. With either cutting out bits for the pedals or cutting the foam off so it just becomes flat carpet up there. The problem with this plan is the bulkhead which is very much not designed to go on top of 3/4" of foam. And which I'm not sure I want to keep in its current location. So for now I don't know, we'll see. I've been kind of frantically working to get everything to a state that's at least ready to put bikes in it because the old van is going to a new home tonight. First things first, last place for rust to hide. Under the rear flooring. On the left you can see where I spilled like three gallons of gas bringing the bike home. It still smelled a bit of gas and had turned the rug into a kind of jelly like substance - you can see how much darker it is. This is also an area that just completely rusts out on sprinters. I don't know why. But it does. So I'm pretty happy about the limited amount of rust.  Three hours later... I may have gone a little nuts with the paint, but it's all going under something so I don't care that it's not white (I CARE SO MUCH BUT NOT ENOUGH TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT). Did I need to spray the wheel wells? No, I didn't. But I figured it wouldn't do anything bad and I was trying to work on my technique of having just a smooth motion from an appropriate distance. I also added a layer of paint where I cut out the carpet because I was having fun spray painting things and having spent two hours huffing diesel exhaust it seemed like a good idea to just provide some extra protection for... reasons?  Bulkhead went in, and here's the view from the front. It's not particularly secure, but because the vanrug is going underneath it I think I'm going to install it with two plusnuts through the floor, two plusnuts on each side through angle brackets, and then a couple at the top. Right now it's just kind of screwed into the ceiling in a way that is not at all secure but given time constraints is good enough.  Another view from the front before tidying it up a little more and moving all of my stuff from the old van over.  One last thing to do - cover up the back window so that folks don't just walk by, see dirt bikes in the back and think "thank you for this free dirt bike". Stealth is the watchword here. More or less. Kind of hard to be stealthy when you're a thirty seven ton battleship but what can you do. Long term, the plan is to cut out some thin plywood and cover it with carpet but short term I thought I'd just screw something on and then when it came time I couldn't do it. I don't know why, not like a couple of sheet metal screws are going to hurt but that's how I ended up with some adhesive and this piece of carpet covering the window.  Because I also have to work today, I went out early and put that carpet on the rear window and then brought all the stuff that's not a motorcycle from the old van to the new one. The back is nice and clear for the bikes but the front? I don't know why I needed a wall to begin with - nobody will be able to see the bikes in the back behind all this stuff. Ironically, before this all my tools had been put away and I'd swept the van out and it was totally clean and neat. Hopefully putting it like this will make me actually think about what I need and where it goes. For example, probably 2/3 of that is riding gear. Boots, helmets, jerseys, pants etc. Helmets will be mounted to the walls in the back and I was planning on a couple small hooks to hang hangers with a jersey, pants and socks on as they should be pretty flat. But boots are an open question. I would like to figure out some way to have the boots just live on a couple of peet dryers that I can just flip the switch on and air them out while I drive back from riding. Maybe a computer fan hooked up to PVC - I need to give it some thought. Anyway, there's so much stuff. It's ridiculous. 
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Jan 27, 2022 17:30
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Bikes go out of the old van. And into the new!  The plan is for the orange bike to go in the middle and the blue and green ones to go on little plywood platforms on the wheel wells. I need to mock this up though as 1. they fit across inside the wheel wells just fine right now. and 2. the wheel wells are a little longer than I thought they'd be so the KLX110 in particular doesn't really fit like I thought it would. I didn't spend much time futzing with it because I snuck out in the middle of work to do this but I'll spend some more time working on it over the coming weeks
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Jan 27, 2022 22:02
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OK, here’s the current plan. Box around it means it’s on the floor. No box=hung on the wall. Gear on the left, working on bike stuff on the right. Enough room around my bike that I can actually use the van as a mobile shed and not have to take it outside on the street to work on it. Then depending on how it’s all feeling, a boot dryer made out of PVC and a 12v computer fan can live on the left. Suggestions definitely welcome both on setup and on a system I can just put wet boots on and then flip a switch and forget about it. Thinking either something that’s on when van is on or else just on a timer would be best. 
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Jan 29, 2022 18:29
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One of the things that falls into the category of “obviously your professional F1 garage-level fleet maintenance should have caught that and corrected it, thus any failure is your fault and you will be punished but in a cleverly engineered way” is the automatic door locks. In these vans there are two circuits for door locks. Front and back. Front is either just the driver door (my van) or the driver and passenger door. Rear is the remaining doors. Although on mine, the sliding side door isn’t automatic for some reason. But that’s a problem for another time. If all your door sensors are working properly and your doors are closed, you can hit the lock button and the doors lock. If, however you are a stupid chucklefuck deserving of German engineering wrath and you have somehow let one of your door circuits stay open, well…. That’s a problem. Then, when you try to lock the doors they all try to lock, then unlock themselves then try to lock again just in case your dumb rear end somehow managed to close them in that nanosecond and then they unlock again. On an American car, this might be solved by just, you know locking. You can certainly close the sprinter doors when they’re locked so they’re not trying to protect you from locking yourself out. On the sprinter, however, the solution is to either lock the door and then close it (something that does not work on the passenger door for reasons and only works sometimes on the drivers door for other reasons, both of which I’m dead sure are user error but works fine on the back door), or you can lock the door and hold the key in the lock position. The doors on that circuit will then lock. Then unlock because remember your door circuits are messed up somehow? Then try to lock again. Then unlock. But if you just hold the key in the lock position throughout, it will stay locked. You have to do it drivers side, passengers side, then lock the rear door as usual. No, I don’t know why the same rule doesn’t apply to the rear door. Pain in the rear end to read, right? It’s worse to do every time. Which is why today’s project was replacing some hardware to get this little blinking light to go away. I assure you, it is blinking. That lets you know which door is open. The left arrow pointing forward is for the “front” or drivers circuit. And when you try to lock it from inside, the passenger’s side actually locks so you know it’s the rear door.  Step one, replace the bottom sensor because it was missing. Mmm shiny.  Then, in an abundance of caution, these guys are getting replaced. Mostly because they used to have two prong versions but at some point were superseded by three contact versions.  Of course, the wiring loom wasn’t superseded…  Everything all buttoned up!  Does it work now? No. And I am feeling personally attacked by that question. I’ll have to dig into the electrics to see if something else is wrong. Like a blown fuse. Also on the menu? Replacing this very effective wrench system for opening the left rear door. Does it work? Yes. Technically. But I can feel the weight of MB engineering judgment looming from across the pond.  Cute as a button.  And interesting. Because, hi mb engineers who I love and respect, of loving course you made it so there is a proper way to close this door. You see, you don’t just shut it. You shut it and flip that forward. Just shutting it does this.  Then flip it forward?  And this pops up, locking the door in place. After which you are permitted to shut the other side.  The other rear door problem is that it’s not shutting entirely. It closes and latches but not as much as it’s supposed to. Which I thought was going to be solved by adjusting the strike pin, but apparently not. So that and the electrical issues on the rear door will be a problem for another day. There’s only so much working on the van after work in freezing weather I have in me. Plus, you know, don’t want to miss taco Tuesday. 
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Feb 9, 2022 16:51
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Next up we moved inside. I managed to jam all my tools into those (plus one or two more blown plastic cases, not pictured). And now the question is… poo poo.  What is the smallest, most efficient way that I can put all these back in the van? I had used the big dewalt bin for power tools, medium for random junk, small for random junk and toolbox for random junk. My initial plan is as follows but please give me your better suggestions because I’m not sure it’s a great plan as it relies heavily on ziploc bags to consolidate. 1. Get rid of as many blow molded plastic boxes as I can. Anything that’s a socket goes on a rail (except the ktm toolkit as that was a gift). 2. Ditch the random flathead screwdrivers as I got the nice wera ones for Christmas. 3. All assorted bolts go in a little bucket. 4. Screwdrivers together in a plastic bag. 5. Anything that looks like pliers in another bag. 6. Hammers at the bottom. 7. Tire changing tools + lube in their own plastic bag. 8. Wiring stuff in its own bag. 9. Punches in a bag. 10. Wrenches in a bag. 11. Grinding wheels in a bag. 12. Broken bolt removal stuff in a bag. 13. Get rid of anything I haven’t used in the past two years. 14. Toss it all back in and see how it fits.
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Feb 11, 2022 16:10
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Bags will rip and tear. What about magnetic strips along the walls or bulkhead?
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Feb 11, 2022 17:01
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Captain McAllister posted:Bags will rip and tear. What about magnetic strips along the walls or bulkhead? Sorry, I mean I'm going to put them in ziploc bags and then into either one of the dewalt boxes or into a rubbermaid or something. Magnetic strips are definitely an interesting idea. Now thinking of using these, thanks to the tool thread. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CH3H8CF/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2EVGA5XI5A1GO&psc=1 builds character fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 17:14
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I really like canvas tool rolls for organizing things like combo wrenches and screw drivers and allen drivers and stuff where you don't want them loose and have to search through them but a hard case takes up too much room. Would also recommend a canvas or cloth zippered bag vs ziplock like you've already realized.
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Feb 11, 2022 20:57
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It was snowing unexpectedly today, but I got some help and started laying down the vanrug.  It came 72” wide but the van is only 68” wide inside so we had to trim a 4” strip along the whole roll. No fingers were lost so I consider it a success.  And some trimming along the corners.  We just did behind the wall today. No picture, but the bikes fit easily with that bit of roll still there which makes me think I can move the wall further back. Something to think about long term as that would let me put a bunk up front. 
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Feb 13, 2022 21:22
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