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meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

I thought that might be the case but side by side new and old are exactly the same so it must be me loving it up.

Here’s a picture of the issue from someone else. The ends are supposed to be resting on that tab.



I won’t be able to get to it today but hopefully I can figure it out Monday.

Is the spine of the shoe rocking on something on the hub? I'm sure my old Landie used to do something like this; swap the top for the bottom shoe - they might be handed with the spine off to one side.

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meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

One exciting new development. I started the van when it was ~15F out just to see how the diesel would do. I used a trick I read about on the internet - turn the key to on until the glow plug light goes off, then repeat twice more without starting the van. Then start. It worked great and the van started up easily. But… when doing so the serpentine belt area started squealing. It stopped when warm and hasn’t done it since. It’s fine, right? Right?

Yeah, this was a pretty normal trick on older 90s euro diesels, get the glow plugs nice and warm on a chilly winters' day.

With the belt you probably had a slightly low battery from it sitting around being worked on, then taking a bunch of energy to hot up the glow plugs. Personally I'd tighten up the belt just a smidge if you have an adjustable tensioner.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

Does it not work on newer ones?

My newer Euro Transit diesel doesn't have a glow lamp indicator, and it doesn't wait on start up. Turn the key and it goes immediately.

The startup is monitored and managed by the computer, the key doesn't directly switch the glow plug or starter.

It's so quick I reckon it's heating up the fuel through a preheating block or something, rather than a separate glow plug in the head.

Starts up just like a petrol car. It's seamless, i've never had to think about it.

meltie fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jan 19, 2022

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

Anyone have thoughts on minimum thickness for the wall separating front and back to stop me from getting wrecked in the back of my head by a flying toolbox in a crash? 3/4" seems super sturdy but if the toolbox is going 50 mph? Don't want to overthink it but maybe two 1/4" or 1/2" pieces sandwiched with some sound deadening and a piece of metal (16 gauge steel is what's used for partitions but that seems like overkill if there's also plywood) in between? Am I being crazy about this. I've never seen anyone else do it but folks who build motovans are also the folks who are like "yeah, when I was little we'd go to races in the back of a pickup working on the bike as we went so I just duct taped this bed down and my buddies all ride in it without seatbelts."

If you're seriously worried about tools coming forwards during a crash, you'll need a metal bulkhead really.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

MrOnBicycle posted:

Cool thread! I like these "roadside" projects.

Do not watch Soup Classic motoring and what he did to his Mercedes van or project creep will really set in!

What are you planning for securing everything down?

I was shouting at the Soup van last night! two-piece rain scuttle sandwich known for rusting out... epoxy paint as prep... but grind off patches down to bare metal as lands for spot-welds... they're gonna scab out by next winter! Use weld-thru primer here! That's what it's for!!!!

meltie fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jan 23, 2022

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

MrOnBicycle posted:

That's funny, I had the exact same reaction! Shame about all that work if (when) they rust again. I like the window pane idea though. Good way to get some light in without having people peak inside.

When :argh:

The range rover corner roof lights? Yeah, they're awesome!

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

Why do you think this? Just that 3/4” plywood won’t be strong enough? I’m inclined to agree with the other folks who say it’s enough but I also don’t want to be dumb about safety and I feel like I’m bad at estimating force of things that might be flying through the air in a crash.

I just have images of tools becoming 50mph projectiles if you have a big head-on collision at speed, and i'm not sure that wood is enough to hold that back. You want the metal bulkhead I just took *out* of my Transit. I've got no experience here though!

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meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

builds character posted:

OK, first off thank you all for making me realize I should not die. With special thanks to the tinned owl-BDW team for pointing out I should be wearing a helmet. This is definitely the real answer.

I actually have a metal bulkhead that I will put back in. I had taken it out because it rattled like someone throwing a thousand tin cans full of rocks down a steep hill and I couldn't really screw stuff like helmet hangers onto it. But I've spent some time trying to reconcile "don't die" and "loud noise bad" with "need to put bike in van tomorrow" and the answer I've come up with is this.

I'm going to put the bulkhead back in. I bought some outdoor carpet from HD and will spray it on for two reasons. First, the bulkhead has a bunch of see through spots and I don't want folks spying the bike in the back. And second, it will hopefully stop some of the rattle. I will also put some MVL on the bulkhead and order more MVL so I can completely cover it. Then I'll sandwich the bulkhead between two thin pieces of plywood (5mm or 1/4") and add some thinsulate between at least one layer and the bulkhead. Just planning to use a couple 1x4s and fix the plywood to those. That should let me 1. not die. 2. stop anyone from seeing the bikes in the back while I finish up.
3. make the front interior look nice long term. 4. let me hang helmets and stuff off the front wall of the garage. Maybe put some e track or l track on it, if I want to go nuts.

The metal bulkhead was attached to the van with sheetmetal screws so I'm going to switch those over to plusnuts too because uh, yeah.

If it's rattling, the transit bulkhead I just took out had thick metal blocks bolted to it low down — I assume to dampen the booming. Perhaps you could do that?

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