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Old crummy trucks that may or may not run or have engines but will definitely be money pits? This is extremely my kind of poo poo, I wanna see where this goes.
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Nov 2, 2021 05:10
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BigPaddy posted:If it was the NSS then you would hear the starter solenoid click but the engine not turn over. This was happening to me when I was installing the new column in my Squarebody last week. Start a podcast called "56 reasons to hate Packard Electric Division"
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Nov 4, 2021 23:33
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WTFBEES posted:Pretend spoiler for the next update: every bit of the current suspension is getting replaced. Just remember to not fully tighten any of the bolts that go through bushings until you have the full vehicle weight on the suspension, unless you go with greased poly bushings. I ignored that (as I didn't understand what the problem was) the first time I did suspension work in 2009 and hey why the gently caress did my bushings last less than 5k miles?  must be crappy quality rubber, clearly.
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Jan 10, 2022 19:33
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WTFBEES posted:I had good intentions of getting video of the first drive, but I was more concerned with not falling out of the doorless, beltless untested truck with questionable brakes and dry rotted tires. However, I can report that the Scout does drive up to a quarter mile at speeds reaching 30 MPH! It even shifts into second, turns and brakes! That's awesome! First drive is always a sketchy but amazing death ride wondering what's going to fall off of your unfinished, possibly unregistered, most likely uninsured jalopy as you trundle around the neighborhood reducing your neighbors property values by the minute.  On my similar drive in my latest project, I was 3/4 down the runway outside the shop I built it in doing 75mph when I realized I hadn't the foggiest clue of what condition the brakes were in, it hadn't moved under its own power in 7 years, and I didn't have much pavement left  Most of us learned the same way, you're doing great. I didn't know poo poo about gently caress when I started wrenching on my Jeep in 2008.
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Jan 25, 2022 06:36
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If you've been careful penny pinching you might be happy about it, otherwise don't even think about doing that. I am 150% spite by mass and some crusty old boomer told me I'd never finish the project or I'd spend ten grand plus so I naturally did the mentally healthy thing and kept an exceedingly detailed spreadsheet that ended up at just under 3500 running and driving, just so I could rub it in his face. But if I'd started just buying fancy billet aftermarket parts brand new and replacing things willy nilly I could have easily spent 7+. Double edged sword, pick your poison. I think you'll do alright aside from that dash pad and similar stuff probably.
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Jan 26, 2022 23:53
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Holy loving poo poo  Yeah do not under any circumstances add any of this up
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Jan 27, 2022 05:59
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A copper welding spoon will help you A LOT if you can get to the back of the area you're welding, so basically everything except the outer rockers should be possible. Flux isn't ideal for body work but I've done it.
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Mar 7, 2022 02:17
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WTFBEES posted:...I had no idea these existed and they look very helpful. Will buy. If you were anywhere near me I'd just give you one, I bought all the remaining stock (4 or 5 I think) when I realized harbor freight was discontinuing them but I'm not wearing them out anywhere near as fast as I expected from my first experience with them. They might be an online-only thing now.
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Mar 7, 2022 08:08
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My least favorite is when you buy, say, a 2 pin gt150 connector kit to redo the CTS connector on your LS harness because it's been roasted to death by the header, and you crimp the first pin on and go to insert it in the connector housing and... Why the gently caress won't it go in? What is this bullshit? *Googles* PULL TO SEAT? WHAT? 99.99% of connectors have normal rear insertion pins but some GM poo poo is like flaring brake lines. And then you get to buy more pins because it only came with 2 and you just used one. Also man that is a very pretty Scout. I wonder if that's worth 20 or 50k in that condition?
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Mar 31, 2022 00:31
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I would go with option 1.5. Straighten what you have. Straighten each of those banged up areas with hammers, hydraulic press if needed, heat if needed. comealong across the long diagonal points and crank it till it measures square, release, remeasure, repeat until it's square.
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May 23, 2022 22:50
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Holy crap. You're straight up kevbarlas-ing this thing.
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Oct 2, 2022 23:34
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Unfortunately like 90% of the images got wrecked by loving TINYPIC when they closed up shop or did some kind of total system overhaul, but here's the thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3336130 He basically used a large crumbling chunk of rust shaped like a van to craft an entirely new van. Much as you are doing.
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Oct 3, 2022 04:34
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Try finding something similar shaped that you can beat into the correct shape with less work instead of having to fabricate the whole complex curve. Usually helps. Look at old appliances at the scrapyard or dump, other cars at the junkyard, etc etc. For the grinding the whole thing away issue, I usually will use a die grinder to attack just the weld itself until I'm very close to flat, then angle grinder to smooth out anything left. Much easier to avoid turning it into a weld bead surrounded by paper thin nothingness that way.
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Dec 19, 2022 10:32
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If you are very careful you can use an angle grinder this way too, just brace your elbows on the work or even put some wood blocking down to rest your wrists and you can probably get a high enough angle with the disc to only touch the weld until the very last part where it needs smoothing. I'll sometimes brace either the side handle or the guard edge against the work and slowly ease the edge of the disc into a weld then swivel it back and forth to kind of mill the weld down, too. For the metal forming, it won't work for long obviously but you could maybe wipe it down with oil, then make a form around it and pour concrete into it, then beat your metal into the concrete after it cures for a month or so. Long as you're careful I bet it'll hold up for one copy, but probably not longer than that. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Dec 21, 2022 |
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Dec 21, 2022 22:39
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Yeah, a die grinder is absolutely better than an angle grinder for this. The swarf it makes (at least with carbide burrs not grinding stones) is an order of magnitude more painful though so look out. Progress looks great! I hate sheet metal work like that. I've got the 30in version of that bender and it kind of sucks too. I've never used it for more than about 14in of 16ga, I actually bought it to do 18 and 24ga HVAC ducting which it excels at, but yeah, 16ga is a fight.
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Jan 21, 2023 08:37
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That looks like you're about to rebuild a diff. I would say leave it the gently caress alone unless you need to change gear ratio or the existing bearings are actually hammered. It's a pain in the dick and emotional payoff is very low while risk of damaging expensive parts is high. Carrier bearings are much easier since they're the same size and therefore no funny business happens, you just take the old ones off and put the new ones on without losing any shims, but pinion bearings... Bleh. If it's a high pinion axle there is an oil retainer baffle that's nearly impossible to not destroy while removing the inner pinion bearing race, and it is part of the shim stack for the pinion bearing depth shims and also affects pinion bearing preload, and inner and outer pinion bearings are different sizes and changing them can theoretically subtly change your pinion depth and therefore pattern and backlash. If you still want to by all means go for it, I've got a few decent videos on gear setup if you want, but I wouldn't gently caress with it unless they're properly worn out. Definitely take a gear tooth contact pattern with markup paste and a backlash measurement before taking it apart if you intend to reuse the gears, reusing gears and not getting the pattern right back where it came from is a perfect recipe for loud rear end gears and oh hey now it's time to spend another 500 bucks on parts and another day screwing with it.
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Jan 29, 2023 03:12
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If the pinion bearings feel smooth and aren't horribly loose I would be very tempted to put the limited slip in and get the ring gear back in spec on backlash and pattern, then maybe replace the pinion bearings after. At least that way you can assume the ring gear is at the right side to side position when redoing the pinion bearings. On a 44 the shims go under the pressed on bearings which is really quite annoying. It's best if you buy a pair of new carrier bearings (don't need the races) and hone them out to make what's called setup bearings that are a slip fit on the carrier journals instead of a press fit. You use them while adjusting the shim stacks till you have the pattern and backlash right, then you swap the actual bearings on and check again. The whole annoyance of setting up ring and pinion gears is they're hypoid gears, so the backlash, pinion depth, and ring gear side to side spacing all affect each other kind of. And with the way Dana does the inner pinion bearing and oil baffle and shims, it also affects the pinion preload shim stack. Before this I should say - any time I say check backlash and pattern, check it in at least 2 ideally 3 places. Once you have done that at least once on the new carrier without any sign of runout you can only do it once from then on out. So what I'd do: Put new limited slip in the freezer. Put the ring gear back on the carrier Slap it back in the housing, hopefully you get the races on the correct sides but it's not the end of the world, they're probably from the same lot. Make sure the carrier bearing caps are in the same place they came from, there are alignment letters stamped in the caps and the main casting surface that line up to tell you which goes on which side and which orientation it goes in, just match them up, one set will be vertical the other horizontal and they'll be towards one end of the cap Clean the teeth and whatnot fairly well Check backlash (this may be difficult to do effectively with very worn bearings) and write it down. Lock the pinion with a c clamp and some bar stock while doing this. Get a pattern with markup paste. Put some drag on the carrier while doing it, one direction, pic, then the other direction. It should be centered roughly on each face of the teeth. It shouldn't be all the way in the root of the teeth, nor should it go all the way to the top edges. It might, they're used gears, but hopefully it won't Pull the carrier again. Pop bearings off one at a time. Clean measure existing shim stack on each side, both full stack and one shim at a time. Write down. Normal terminology is NRGS (non ring gear side, farther from the gear) and RGS (ring gear side, closer, has the ring gear bolts facing it) but use what works for you. Mark the shims with where they came from (new, RGS, NRGS) as well. Take ring gear off old carrier. Use brakleen to clean and dry it, then pure acetone to flush the bolt holes. Dry air to blast the holes dry. Stick it in a gallon freezer bag and drop it in a sink full of hot water. Get out the new ring gear bolts and use acetone to solvent clean them. Find your loctite and torque wrench. Lunch while the ring gear warms up. Pull the new limited slip out of the freezer. Grab the ring gear and smoothly drop it onto the carrier before either changes temp much. Before it gets stuck, spin it to line up with the bolt holes on the carrier and get one or two bolts in hand tight to keep it aligned. Slap it in the vise gripping the body of the carrier, use soft jaws if you have to. Put the rest of the ring gear bolts in with loctite, torque in star pattern, paint pen em so you know which ones you did already. Pull the two hand tight ones back out, loctite, torque. Start with the existing shim packs from your old carrier and your setup bearings plus the new races from your install kit. Check backlash and pattern while applying torque. If it's good? Swap your new bearings on, carrier is now done. If it's not good? Too much backlash you move some shims from NRGS to RGS to shove the gears closer together. At this point you should probably use a notepad to track how much you moved where and what the effects were. That way you can backtrack easier if you overshoot. Once backlash is what it was before loving with it, you check pattern again and hopefully it's good. If it's not, prioritize pattern matching over backlash or the gears will be noisy. Backlash should still stay in spec range either way. Once this is all set, you add a certain amount of shim to each side to get proper carrier bearing preload - if you've been having to fight the drat carrier in every time you swap shims back and forth this whole time, it may well have enough already. Now swap to your new bearings with your press and you're done with the carrier setup. If you still desire pain, it's time to do the pinion bearings. Assuming the bearings are exactly the same as the factory ones were when new, you can just pull them off, put new ones on, and off it goes. If you can't assume that, start by making yourself an inner pinion bearing setup race. This is like the carrier bearings, but you grind the OD for a tight slip fit instead of the ID because it presses into the case. Pull the yoke off and the pinion out. Don't lose any pinion preload shims, clean measure and mark all of them and record what you found. Yank the pinion seal. Replace the inner pinion bearing. There are no shims under it, so you just press it off and press the new one on. Hopefully you don't mangle the pinion oil slinger in the process - it affects this too. If you do, measure the old ones thickness as well as the new one and record how much thinner or thicker the new one is. If it's thicker you'll be taking the difference out of the pinion depth shim stack, if it's thinner, you'll be adding pinion shims to compensate. Drive the inner pinion bearing race out of the housing. If you're like me, you'll turbo gently caress the pinion oil retention baffle (only used on high pinion front diffs, you're probably fine here since that's a low pinion rear I think, ignore this if not working on a HP front diff) in the process. Clean, measure, and mark the factory pinion depth shims. Drive the outer pinion bearing race out of the housing and clean the whole area. Drive the new outer pinion bearing race into the housing. No adjustment here so it just goes in. If you are reusing the existing pinion oil slinger, stuff the original pinion depth shim stack (and oil retention baffle on HP, adjust shim stack if using new baffle because the baffle is part of the shim stack, blah blah) back in with your setup pinion race you ground down. Put the pinion back in, outer pinion bearing on, no preload shims or seal needed right now, yoke on, use a regular nut of the same thread spec instead of your new pinion nut, I believe it's 7/8-14 but not sure. Run it down with a hand ratchet until your pinion preload rolling torque is in spec, I don't remember d44 spec ATM. Carrier back in, caps back on, check pattern and backlash again. Looks good? Congrats, take it apart again, drive in your actual inner pinion bearing race in, now it's time to fiddle-gently caress the pinion preload shims till you get enough preload. If you had to add pinion depth shims (hopefully you recorded how much you needed to add) for any reason other than compensating for oil slinger or baffle thickness changes, start by adding that much to your preload stack as well, plus a little so you don't overload the bearings on the first shot. Torque pinion nut to spec (use the regular one again). Check preload. Repeat while adding or removing shims until you get the right preload. Preload is checked with no carrier and no pinion seal. Once you get good preload, put the carrier back in and check backlash and pattern again one last time. Good? Cool. Yoke off, seal on, yoke back on but with the new locknut from your setup kit this time. Congrats you're done. If at any point the pattern goes out on one of your checks you get to back up to the last time you had good pattern and try again. Try to avoid that especially when you've already pressed a bearing in or on. It's... Well it's not HARD work, but it's painstaking, repetitive, detail oriented work. I wrote this specifically with the idea of reusing used gears that can be assumed to already have the pinion depth set correctly in mind, if you are using used gears you don't have a good depth on already or new gears, this procedure shouldn't be used. But this is in fact a shortcut for any case where the pinion is already set and at least snug enough to rely on pattern and backlash. If it doesn't seem like a shortcut, well, uh, it's gonna be fun. My first ring and pinion setup took me an entire day and part of the next. I'm not really a fan of the way Dana Spicer makes this necessary. It's silly and overcomplicated. Most Toyota diffs, Chrysler 8.25 and 8.75 and several others, Ford 9, and GM 14 bolt are much easier because they either have carrier bearing side adjusters that thread in and out, or a removable pinion bearing housing, or both, so you can set up at least one or two of your specs without affecting anything else and then assume it's good from then on. For example on the 14 bolt there are only shims for pinion depth, and they're under a bolted on bearing housing that you set preload on before anything else, so you can go much faster because you can change pinion depth without removing the carrier, and you can change carrier side to side position and bearing preload without removing it either. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jan 31, 2023 |
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Jan 30, 2023 21:53
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No problem. I might have missed a step or two but I don't think I did. In any case if something seems fucky, ask away or see if you can figure out what I forgot to mention. And in case you decide to go the hard route, you still want to do the pattern and backlash checking up front so you can reproduce the same pattern, but here's the best traditional, square-zero, unknown pinion depth needed gear setup videos I know of: Making setup bearings: https://youtu.be/PGvwAznsEzE Setting gears from scratch: https://youtu.be/qixdveMbZ9Q https://youtu.be/1K_jWlfGrNE (These videos are of a "Jana 76", aka custom stack up of parts to put a Dana 70 ring and pinion and carrier in a Dana 60 case, so some of the stack up and parts assembly order is off, but it does show the idea of how to work a hypoid gearset into proper mesh via repeated test fits pretty darn well. Right at 14min on the first one he gets slightly confused about how much shim to move from RGS to NRGS to get more backlash, which really shows how much it helps to use a notepad if you can't do this in your sleep already.) This dude's a fuckin magician with diffs. I haven't met him in person yet but as luck would have it he lives an hour from my new place and it's likely I'll run into him on the trail eventually. Edit: oh, forgot to mention exactly what to buy for setup bearings. Normally all you need is the two carrier bearings (don't need races for them, just the cone with the rollers on it) and one inner pinion bearing race. If the outer pinion bearing is real tight on the pinion shaft you might want one for that too but you can usually just use a dead blow mallet or brass/lead hammer to knock the pinion back out of it the few times you'll need to. Buy the plain pinion nut ahead of time too. It looks like it's the same 7/8-14 thread as d30 but I'm not 100% on that. For pinion preload rolling torque most people use a beam style inch pound torque wrench. IIRC the rough number for most diffs is in the low to mid tens of foot pounds for new bearings. But verify that. Me, I hate trying to read a beam torque wrench that I'm spinning. So I bought a cheap digital fish scale off Amazon and sized a 3/4 thick plywood disc so that the radius in inches times the scale max weight was slightly over my range I needed, then drilled holes in it to mount it to the ears of the pinion yoke. In my case I used an 11lb fish scale and an 8in diameter which gives me 44in-lb max torque. Wrap a string around the disc on the edge tied to a drywall screw and tie to the scale. Get it started by hand on the disc while pulling smoothly and you'll get your number, IIRC i was aiming for 30inlb so I just aimed for 7.5lb. kinda hillbilly but you know what? $20 and some junk to get a better measurement with less annoyance, I'll take it. If I ever need more torque, I can just make a bigger plywood circle and redo the scaling math 
kastein fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jan 31, 2023 |
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Jan 31, 2023 03:53
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That patch came out really good. I hope that shop gets your rear end in gear so you can make it to the show.
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Mar 7, 2023 18:59
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Nice!
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Mar 11, 2023 18:13
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I don't see any oil puddles, are you SURE an international was parked there? Glad the cable broke in a good spot. Inopportune breakdowns are the worst but that parking lot looks dry, clean, and not inhabited by meter maids or impound trucks.
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Mar 11, 2023 22:29
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That pinion angle is definitely whack. If it's a double cardan+single cardan style, it looks a bit too high eyeballing it, it should be 1-1.5 degrees (aim for 1 unless those leafs are super flexy) below the driveshaft. If it's an old style single cardan+single cardan shaft, it should be 1-1.5 degrees below parallel with the transfer case output shaft instead. This is more likely, but I don't recall seeing what kind of driveshaft you were going to use.
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Mar 12, 2023 02:02
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Today I went to the junkyard and saw something in the van section that reminded me of your thread. Why, you ask?  It's really impressive how good at body work you've gotten, and how quick you've done it.
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Sep 4, 2023 09:40
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Wow, international changed the size of the connector? At least Jeep just straight up used the regular GM one. I found much the same horror show of old SAE connectors and badly done trailer light wiring and previous owner repairs up under the back of my J10, and did the same thing in response. Works great now.
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Oct 2, 2023 04:05
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It is a very cute cat for sure. I forgot to say that, beep is great. Also if you don't want to sand or upholster them, you could look into solvent smoothing.
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Oct 2, 2023 04:14
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... actually, you live in a fairly arid location right? I wonder if the old one literally shrank from having all the plasticizers baked out of it for 50 years.
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Oct 2, 2023 08:36
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HEY CAT HOW ARE YOU I bet no one will notice the frame difference too. I wouldn't have if you hadn't mentioned it. On the stainless exhaust, you already order the stuff for it? I got all my mandrel bends and tubing from Columbia River Mandrel Bending, which fellow goon Slow is Fast turned me on to in like 2015. Got 304 16ga tubing there, 308L MIG wire elsewhere, and all my flanges and hangers from Ace Race Parts. As luck would have it they all shipped from the PNW within 2hr of where I live now, but to my Massachusetts location because I ordered it all in 2018. At least I don't have to wait anymore next time I do an exhaust I guess. If you've never worked with stainless, here are a few things to keep in mind. Abrasive cutting is going to be your friend. I tried using my band saw and only chewed up blades till I got tired and just started using my angle grinder. Was I trying to go too fast? Maybe, maybe not. Stainless is kind of hard to cut nicely because if you go too slow it doesn't cut worth poo poo and if you go too fast oops you heated it up and now it's harder than diamond and where did your bandsaw teeth go oh well. It's really loving annoying to drill. It's cake to cut and grind with abrasives though. You really want to use trimix gas if you are MIG welding it but my 75/25 welds came out alrightish. A bit boogery and a bit splattery sure, but my aim was to never have to replace an exhaust again not to make it pretty so I didn't care. Buy extra material to practice and dial your settings in for sure if you care how it's going to look. Anyways weldors (I am but an amateur) seem split, you either want pure argon or trimix argon/helium/co2 for 304SS. It seems it even depends on how your welder is set up and what pulse duty cycle it uses blah blah blah I have no idea what I'm talking about at this point. If you care what it looks like you really will want to get stainless tools as well. Your cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, wire wheels or brushes, etc should be stainless ones and should never touch regular mild steel, or it will cross contaminate and you'll get blotchy rusty spots on your exhaust. I didn't give a rats rear end (and honestly forgot) so I just used regular steel wire wheels on mine and sure enough, the 3 inches around each weld is now surface rusted. On the brake lines, are there vehicles with a similar banjo fitting on the caliper and a similar flare spec at the frame end you can use lines off of? Us Jeep guys really like to use Dakota brake lines for example because you can get them anywhere but they're the same fittings as our stuff and several inches longer.
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Jan 29, 2024 10:56
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At least in my experience, getting your cut square to the tube is by far the most important part of doing exhaust work. I've seen people 3d print templates and jigs for cutting square and marking square even on bends in the tube. You'll definitely want to back purge. I didn't but I didn't really give a poo poo about looks. If you can, do. I tried tig welding it first and realized I absolutely suck rear end at tig welding and pulled out my mig welder. I would go by your local metal supplier and buy whatever drops they have of your desired thickness and alloy out of their scrap bin and drop stack and use that for practice. I've paid anywhere from "buy us some pizza" to per-pound price and it's definitely better than scrapping out a bunch of tube before you get the hang of it. Then move to straight tube sections etc. You can get some pretty neat tubing clamps for jobs like this these days. I only have the basic one that is apparently called "pipe welding pliers". They work alright I guess, I use them to hold my work in place while I get 3 or 4 tacks on it and then pull it out to full weld. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 30, 2024 02:48
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Well it appears the truck will now pass Arizona emissions inspection as it has a cat
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Mar 18, 2024 17:40
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That would be my first step as well. Shroud or radiator is usually at fault if it's overheating at low speeds. I can't remember, viscous clutch or solid mounted fan? New or original radiator?
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Mar 24, 2024 15:58
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It really depends. On a vehicle with hub lockouts and/or vacuum disconnect front axle* you aim for the optimal angle for good handling so long as it's not going to make your pinion angle so bad it'll break ujoints or max them out when the suspension cycles. On a vehicle with no hub lockouts and no vacuum disconnect you aim for a good balance between pinion/driveshaft angle (depending on the type of front driveshaft in use - rules are different for CV/CV, CV/ujoint, ujoint/ujoint) and caster. *Vacuum disconnect is widely reviled but does have two benefits and this is one of them.
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Mar 28, 2024 06:34
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