Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Subscribed. Please post every dumb IH and rust question (I repeat myself) , I've probably had to solve it.

My wiring experience is that every connector was a son of a bitch to get apart and all contacts corroded, you're doing a lot better than I did by labeling them and repinning fresh connectors.

If you have a paint spray gun I reccomend the Eastwood rust encapsulator, it sprays well and isn't as picky for topcoating, and I think you can leave it exposed. I used a lot of POR as well but I absolutely had to be topcoated and is a brush on event, which is good when you need that (axles, frames, small irregular pieces) but I'd rather not do a whole panel. The little 2oz cans give way more coverage than you'd expect.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

WTFBEES posted:

I guess that doesn't really look that different but I swear it's better than it was. Cable management to come after it actually works. Which, unfortunately, it does not. No power to the coil or any kind of click from the starter. Troubleshooting comes next.

Do you have the neutral safety switch wired, correctly, and hooked up and in position?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I would do basic continuity testing on the wiring based on the wiring diagram, then jumper the connector and see if it cranks. Then do the same for the switch. It's a pretty simple device, I think it has four positions, one allows it to start, the next doesn't, the next allows starting and also triggers the light, and the rest leave the circuits open. Based on as much as you've done I'm sure you're capable and already knew that.

For some reason the NSS came up as the issue for a ton of Scout owners at Binder Planet when I was reading that site for my own problems.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

Yeah that thing's so old, it's been used on everything by everyone since forever. The original probably came from Signal-Stat, Truck-lite, or Grote and each just copied each other. I don't even think it has a name, just Multifunction or Combination Stop/Tail/Turn Lamp.

Box light seemed to give me the best results. And a pair of LED ones gave their lives to replace the incandescent bulbs on my truck.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Someone once told me Scouts are great but Scout owners are terrible. Since they were the least expensive SUV a fella could get used it makes sense. An orphaned, rusted, rough and ready machine probably drew a lot of cheap bastards.

I only ended up with my truck because it was less than half or maybe even a third as expensive as a contemporary Ford or Chevy.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
My shifter knob has been moving a bit clockwise too. Yours is way clockwise. Probably every time it tightens it gets a little deeper, or alternately it isn't tight enough. Someday I'll get a new sticker for it, or put a tiny shim in the hole to back it out a little.

I notice the spark plug wires are all together. I don't recall if you have electronic ignition or not, the original routing (with points) has plug #7 route around the back of the intake to avoid inducing a spark in #5. I guess when they are parralel that can happen and cause a misfire. When you get plug wires that are the right size one of them is crazy long for that purpose.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

WTFBEES posted:

I'm glad you mentioned that. We've got some trash tier Autozone plug wire separators on there, but they're worthless and really just need to be torn off and done according to this very official service bulletin.





And of course they show the firing order starting at 1 and you time it on 8. Number one hiccup of new IH mechanics.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I don't remember much between the valve cover and the oil filter for leaking, unless it was the head gasket which seems unlikely. My valve cover experience was that it leaks from the rear.

Maybe clean it up as best as you can and watch for somewhere new.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

WTFBEES posted:

No but now that you say that, that makes a lot of sense. I've just assumed it was a sensor but a hastily and poorly plugged fitting would fit the theme of everything else we've seen here.

Worth adding - there's another fitting in this exact spot but further back a bit more. This one runs to the aftermarket pressure gauge and is confirmed functional.



We'll find some plugs and give that a try!

Hell while you're at it get the right electric pressure sensor and wire it, rather than sending hot oil to the cab.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I successfully drilled a check valve into mine, it's not difficult.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I feel like even if I took the amount I spent on my truck and had used that to buy a clean example I still would have spent money on it because even the clean shiny versions need things.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
POR 15 bonds really well to rust and like poo poo to shiny metal. It kinds of beaded up and rolled off of it when I tried. If you have it that clean but not perfect I'd look at another product like Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood. I used that on the back half of the frame on the Binder when I had the bed off and it went on really well and is sticking around a year later. It's easy to top coat too.

If you had it dipped clean and it was factory fresh I'd recommend just epoxy primer, but you'll always have some junk in the corners and overlaps so something made to cover rust is still good.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

WTFBEES posted:

I've heard conflicting things on this and it has me concerned. Did you use the POR Metal Prep before the coating? I've got a gallon of it here and ready to go hoping that'll do the etching and make it work.

You're right about that. I forgot about the etching stuff. I even used it in coating the gas tanks.

I thought you were still in the gathering materials stage, and I stand by getting one product rather than doing additional prep, but not if you're already stocked up.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
There's no better first job for sheet metal welding than floor pans hidden under the flooring. I cut up some random sheet metal and practiced stitching it back together on the bench but it was so boring and tedious that once I could reliably lay spot welds I jumped right into the floor of my truck. You're on a path to greatness. Or at least passable bodywork.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I would put that welder up for sale and get one that can use gas, and depending on how much you're willing to spend perhaps even a TIG welder if you're looking to do a lot of bodywork. You've got too. Much nice sheet metal in front of you to struggle with a Flux only welder. My Hobart 140 with gas welded much better than with Flux core. I would have benefited from more variable amperage control.

I used some of those little sheet metal clamps on my steering column and I really liked them. The space they gave worked really well for me.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Everytime I've used a nice tool the first thought is usually "I should have bought this sooner".

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
For all your sheet metal fitting, pick up a air powered sheet metal punch. They're great for flanging and getting little holes to spot weld.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Nice! That is a lot of holes lol. I did one each 5-6 inches.

Oil it up well and it'll punch a lot of holes for you. If you get hanging Chad's you'll have to add oil.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Why do you think IH painted that scout red to begin with?

It hides the rust!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Hell yeah! Great job!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Interesting you think they can even be aligned properly.

I think I spent a day on the cab of my pickup before I just decided the entire opening wasn't right to begin with.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Great job on that bedliner. The shiny bits will probably stay shiny for a while. I did my Sierra with the same kit, got a little sloppy and they're still shiny a year later. Or however long, 8 months maybe. It can take a beating though! Looks like you got all the same pain I did too. Mask forever, have to do it partly outside, and you also failed to get shoe covers!

Also I am glad you saw my door post for what it was, a joke with a nugget of truth.

It sucks to get the pain of IH NLA parts. Happens to everyone to the point there's usually good support for substitutions at least. The brake light switch though... Lol.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Double post, I went back and goddamn. That paint, the wheels.... It looks great.

It reminded me of the side marker LED conversion I did. You can take these Side marker lights , which come in red and yellow. Cut the sides off, and sand down the edges, add a couple holes for screws, and they are a perfect replacement. The LEDS are sealed, and the rest is reflective. They look very close to original, and are both bright lights and a good reflector with a good rich yellow and red color to the plastic. A great cheap weekend fill in project.

Warning, they are bright. A lot brighter than stock. Bright enough you can see them lighting up the road a little at night.

Here's it installed, for reference. It's hard to capture it lit but you gotta take my word for it. I modified them in 2014 so at the time of this pic they were 6 years of use.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I struggled to get a flat part fixed on my ACC vinyl floor on the transmission hump for an afternoon before I went online to find out the pickups have two different transmission hump designs and ACC only offers it in the kind I don't have. Some poo poo just isn't setup to work right. It looks fine now and yours does too. That's just how it goes.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I'm here only for beep now.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Beep beep!

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

WTFBEES posted:

poo poo, I had no idea that was even a thing. As best I can tell the truck was is New Mexico before coming here, so that probably counts as arid. That would also make more sense than International skipping the parts bin for once and using a marginally smaller connector for no clear reason.

I'm going to bet that it's just different for some third or fourth unknown reason. Either they used this connector for two decades and Delco revised it at some point and everyone else changed. Or this was specified for the bigger trucks like loadstar or whatever. That just seems like a long way to shrink.

I'm also basing that on my experience on the lighting sockets for the instrument cluster, they were visually the same but 1/8" smaller or bigger than the widely available ones that you can get at any store and must have been used by GM forever. Older GM products used the oddball size I had and they upgraded in the early 70s.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply