|
A recent Vice Grip Garage involves a '77 Dodge pickup with the same engine and carb. For your entertainment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcAHeO08qCk I'm only 15 minutes in, so I don't know if he gets into the carb.
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2022 01:05
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 15:14 |
|
|
EvilBeard posted:sir, that's a fuel make it happener I'm aware. It'll be fine. <shakes head> No. It won't.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2022 00:02
|
|
|
That floor is looking a lot better. Yeah, the rust converter is a good idea. A good epoxy primer is also not a bad idea - it seals up any rust away from air and moisture, so effectively stops it where it is. For the seat, if you want to be cost effective, and have some fabrication skill for brackets, you can acquire bucket seats out of something else and just use those until you can afford to mess with what's in there. One thing to note is that you will need seats out of a coupe if you wan to easily access the rear seat. I've run into that issue on my previous 2-door Jeep Cherokee, where a prior owner installed 4-door Grand Cherokee seats. No flip/fold forward feature.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2022 22:03
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:The first hurdle is that someone decided that it was a good idea to weld the steering wheel instead of using, say a nut on the bolt. What in the… why would you do that? Wow. quote:So as you all can see this escalated a bit, but I'd rather take it back to a level where I won't be annoyed at myself for not going a bit further. Going to take longer, but looking forward to learning poo poo along the way. It always escalates. Don’t worry about it. All you can do is decide what’s important, and do that. It does get frustrating, that’s for sure. Work on the stuff that makes the car drivable and livable first. Cosmetics second, unless it’s easy and cheap. To be honest, though, sometimes a quick project to make something look nice does a lot for the morale.  MrOnBicycle posted:Nice! Maybe look into vinyl dye if the glue is t ruining the texture. Color change is fairly easy. Paint and body shops do this all the time - one may be willing to do a color change for you if you don’t want to/don’t have the equipment ( the best stuff uses spray guns.)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2022 21:37
|
|
|
Fluxcore welding is pretty easy, but just because it is what it is, it's tougher on thin stuff. MIG allows you to use a thinner wire with a bit lower amperage, and probably some cooling effect of the gas helps. I literally didn't even open the wire that came with my cheap fluxcore welder, instead going straight to Miller welding wire as recommended by veterans, hopefully making my experience better. I've since upgraded to a medium tier MIG (older Hobart 120V machine) and it welds so much nicer when I don't forget to turn on the gas.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2022 20:16
|
|
|
Excellent. Let the flurry of rebuilding commence! Or maybe a slow trickle with bursts of mild flow, like mine.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2022 22:42
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:I'd say I'm in that same burst of mild flow category. I've been practicing welding some and am getting better at it. I finally decided to put the front up on jack stands in preparation for pulling the gearbox and engine, and to get a better view of the stuff I'm welding. Big oof though: I think that area of the "frame rail" just gets smacked a lot when driven, or people like to put jacks or jack stands there (incorrectly) - my RX-7 is pretty bent up there, too. That may not be rust - possibly just an attempt to strengthen it. I'd still probably grind back those welds and take a look to see what was there and what was done, at least on one side. quote:I don't get this: There should be a flat cover plate there: https://www.google.com/search?q=Tor...sclient=gws-wiz
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2022 16:24
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:This project so far has been a roller coaster where I get to the car and see the tons of work needed which almost makes me want to give up, but then I just go "gently caress it" and start doing something and just relax. This is supposed to be something for fun, not work, and once I put myself in that mindset and just go with the flow it really is super enjoyable and low stress. Even stuff like using hand tools despite it taking longer is pretty relaxing. This is pretty much the key to this kind of work. It also helps to make a list on a big piece of cardboard of posterboard (like on Roadkill, or other YT car shows) so you can see both what needs to be done, and what you have actually accomplished. A basic Project Management concept, really.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2022 18:10
|
|
|
My RX-7 rusted in a similar area of the cowl on both sides, which was a real pain, since there was *also* a brace welded over that area. I was just able to see the rust through some lightening holes in the brace. I'm glad I looked and found it, though. At least I didn't have to worry about the hood hinges, what with the reverse opening hood and all. Those welds look to be about my skill level. You could grind those back to flush, but it they're under the fender, who really cares as long as they are solid. I may have mentioned it before, but a good rust converter is a must when dealing with all this stuff. You may have already used some, but if not, do so, especially anywhere where you aren't completely carving out the old sheet metal. The good stuff leaves a nice phosphate coating that will continue to prevent rust, and provides a decent base for paint. I hate rust, and will take every opportunity to crush it.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2022 21:54
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Just to keep the thread out of the archives (no idea what the time limit is). Not much progress during my vacation as I've had to prioritize the family home where the car is at. Leaking roof, mold creeping in, no heated water and now the water meter snapped off so there is no water at all. Makes it hard to work on a car. I've spent some time organizing the garage and bought a parts washer (where has this thing been all my life). That seems to be the way of things - particularly during vacations. I believe others have noted that there currently is *no* auto-archive, ever since SA was purchased from Lowtax.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2022 20:05
|
|
|
I use zinc primer for small areas I happen to be working on, but if I'm going to be spraying a large area, I prefer the catalyzed epoxy primer that literally seals everything up an d just straight up prevents moisture from getting to the metal in the first place. The downside, of course, is that it's 2-part and has to be mixed and spray, whereas zinc primer can come in spray bombs. Hence my choices for which to use. One can also do the epoxy primer over the zinc, if I'm not mistaken? I have seen the 2-part paints in special spray cans, but they're significantly more expensive. Neat, but expensive, and you have to use them in a certain period due to pot life once catalyzed. I should note that I don't live in a particularly rust-prone area (North end of Texas, USA - inland, short winter with very rare salting) so I can get away with a lot more basic rust proofing. I just hate rust and never want to see it again.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2022 19:58
|
|
|
If the existing primer is that tough, I'd be inclined to leave it. Sounds like it may be itself epoxy. Maybe give it a good scuff so whatever you spray next sticks, but if it's doing it's job and you have no evidence of bad things under it...
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2022 17:24
|
|
|
Those look pretty good! The extent of my upholstery work so far has been very simple covering, or applying still-good factory vinyl onto new backing (the boards on my '87 Corolla were water damaged, but the actual upholstery was still fine. A tip on the glue I got from some videos on YT from a guy who does custom work: use vinyl top glue. It's more difficult to use than a spray can, but it's designed to hold an old-school vinyl top on the outside of a car for years in all kinds of weather. The caveat is that once it's stuck, oh boy is it stuck. Comes in a paint can. It's supposed to be sprayed through a spray gun, but can be brushed or rolled just fine. The stuff I got was this: DAP Weldwood Contact Adhesive Landau Top & Trim https://www.amazon.com/Products-Weldwood-Solvent-Adhesive-070798-002333/dp/B004IH3HAQ but I'm sure there's something similar where you are. It's a contact adhesive, so has to be applied to both pieces and allowed to dry a bit, as I recall. Works with foam, fabric, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2022 16:58
|
|
|
Yeah, that looks pretty darn good. I'm sure you're correct on the foam - upholstery foam intended for shaping is pretty stiff. I have some "craft foam" from craft store that would probably work great for the ridges. Typically, you use the stiff foam for shapes, then put a layer of thin soft foam over the whole thing to smooth it out. I bought some headliner foam with cloth that was on clearance that does an excellent job for that. Used it between the hardboard and original vinyl on my Corolla door panels, since the original foam that was bonded to the vinyl was disintegrating. They do sell just the bare light foam in various thicknesses that's fine, but the headliner (1.8", I think. About 3 mm?) was cheaper on clearance, and worked really well. I use a 10'x10' pop up canopy to work on stuff outdoors - makes a huge difference in the Texas sun, or rain. An enclosed tent would be all kinds of nice, with some lighting. A couple 4' (do they come in 1.2m, or do they just go to 1.5m in metric countries?) LED strips would do the deed. I have a garage-sized (10' x 20', so about the same size as yours) with sides, just nowhere really to put it at the moment. Well, I mean, I can put it up, but there's another car already where it would need to go.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2022 21:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 15:14 |
|
|
Yeah, it's pretty much law that a transmission will pee everywhere. Especially when you think it's empty. Same with a pulled engine.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2022 22:41
|
|